240hoke

I have a z32 transmission sitting out in the garage waiting for my adaptor. Ill try and weigh it for you guys. Its certainly more beefy then the stock unit!!!! And just a head up for those of you looking to do the swap, you can get a z32 trans for cheap. I picked up mine with 88K miles and very clean for 300 bucks including hte shifter assymbly. They are known to hold over 600hp. Alrighty here are the deminsions, Z32 Manual Transmission: Length (bellhousing to tailhousing): 30.25" Shifter Position (bellhousing to center pivot): 34.5" Trans MOunt position (bellhousing to center of mount): 24.5" *z32 Shifter is straight up and down unlike the shifters on the first gen trannies which slope back towards you so this helps offset the shifter location diffference.

Thanks Jon, Ive seen those before. A local shop around me carries them and I may end up using a swaged tube. I was hoping to just find a threaded piece for the middle though. I am doing you and terry's rear toe adjuster mod, although it will end up being much like yours. Thanks for teh pictures etc!! Im in the middle of extensive drivetrain modification. Everything is out from under the car, thought I would finally throw the finned cover on.

Hey guys, Im looking for a center "turnbuckle" type adjuster piece. Its used in the center of some strut bars for adjsutment. Its basically a piece with right hand threads on one side and left and threads on the other that can be used to spread a tube. Ive been having trouble finding on jsut curious if anybody might knwo where to find one. Looking for something along the lines of 1/2-3/4 Thanks!

im reading and learning guys keep it coming. I would like to make a nice piece for z's out of carbon or something. I think I may order the book mentioned and do some studyin! Interesting stuff aerodynamics are! -Austin

That what I think jon. I cant think of a practical way to add a skirt around the front though. I would rather make a molded splitter that served both functions. from the side, picture something like this: | <- Airdam <- transition to lower spliter and "mold" into airdam -- <- splitter This would serve both purposes without using flimsy lawn edging which I see alot of people using. I personally dont find it too attractive and without a good deal of bracing it doesnt do much good. Particularly when we are talking this close to the ground longevity is an issue. Wish we had some aerospace engineers to chime in here, Im sure there have to be some on the board. Of course then we might all feel stupid. Synlubes -- I havent cut enough of the airflow from the engine compartment to matter at all. Im fact I believe that the 280z's came with a belly pan that went to the engine cross member. Prolly helps with engine cooling if i had to guess myself. I seriously doubt I will ever cut my hood, I have been thinking about cutting my fenderwells though to relieve pressure build up in the engine compartment.

Haha thanks guys. Trust me it doesnt look as good in person. Anyway, I havent had a chance to drive it much Ive been working on little things for Zdayz. Ill be doing some more fine tuning to the ems thursday so im sure Ill be triple digits and see how it goes. Like I mentioned as did Jon I think it needs to be lower like zr8ed's, to have the best effect. I may work on a different design a little later, Im thinking about playing with carbon...... but we will seee.

OKay finally pullled her out and washed her, also got my grill all finsihed up, made it from some wire mesh and aluminum angle. Tell me what yall think! all in all Im happy with it, I may be experimenting with a making a carbon one that will drop the splitter lower to the ground where it needs to be. But anyway those are just ideas right now. Now I just need some bumpers!

srgunz, That does look like a nice piece. But if im not mistaken are ducts like that actually create more turbulence then nothing at all. Corky Bell goes over this in his book. The inlet for the ducts actually needs to be smaller. Zr8ed - NIce! I see you lowered yours down even farther. I may end up doing this, my car is about as low as I want to go for street driving, but the front lip is still about 5" off the ground. I will prolly make a piece to lower it down a bit, but im gonna see how this works for now. Good to hear you have had postive results.

I missing hte tip of my index finger about 1/2". I feel your pain.

Hey Guys sorry I have been so long in posting. I think many of you are way over thinking what I am doing. I am not trying to completely enclose the front end. The splitter/belly pan only goes to the engine crossmember. I am no aerodynamics engineer, the main purpose of this piece is to give some much needed support to our flimsy airdams and hopefully have the beneit of a little added downforce and improved air flow. And hey I think it looks good, which is reason enough for me I have finished the splitter, it came out extremly strong with the angle reninforcing I did. I ended up using blind nuts on the airdam, they pulled in and held in place quite well since the urethane is pretty soft. I need to roll the car out and take some better pictures, I have just been busy doing little stuff to get the car ready for Zdayz. Anyway I'll shot some better pictures tomarrow but this may be a little clearer:

Well after all that talk about front spliters and air dams and what not, I decided to go ahead and start the splitter I had been planning. Its pretty simple but looks like it should be effective. Anyway this is what I have done so far, I think the pictures should speak for themselves, still have a little trimming to do as well as finishing up all the fasteners, its just mocked up now. Going along with the splitter I am going to add full aluminum inner fenders and some brake ducts. I will post more pictures tomarrow when its finished and the car is back on the ground.

Ive have seen this exact header listed a couple times before. I dunno if its the same person of not though. Regardless it appears to be a nice looking piece. Curious to see how much it sells for.

I agree with gabe, they look funky in the catalogue so I never paid them much attention. Now that I've seen them mounted on your car they look awesome! I am looking forward to seeing more pictures. Ive been looking for a nice flare for a while.

lol yeah thats James Thagard's old car. He does some awesome work thats for sure. Check out his site, it has some of his projects listed: http://www.speedshopthagard.com

My 240z is sitting in the garage while I do a MAJOR clean up and reorgainzation, then mods for this summer: Z32 tranny Z31 turbo axles Aluminum front splitter Other aero work Methonal injection tune for 20-25 psi Then perhaps some flairs and what not but I havent got there yet....

Check out this stuff guys: pretty sure this is what bmw uses: http://www.ashchem.com/ascc/specialty/automotive2.asp

Wonderfull how someone gets corrected so fast on here. But If you were to READ a little tiny bit closer you would see he said CAGE not BAR. There is not much information on the autopower roll CAGE in a 240z. Sure we have all see the bars -- which make a good mount for a set of harnesses, but thats about it....... azn_wrx -- try talking to johnc I think he has installed the autopower cage before.

I said cut the control arm.... not the spindle pin.

Looking at the design it looks to me that if you are willing to sacrifice your stock control arms they could be cut off. After the ends are cutt off you can install the heim joints and thread them into the controll arm. This is just me looking at the picture though. This would be my approach If my spindle pins were frozen. The only reason to pull the spindle pins that i know of is to dismount the stock control arms and replace the outer bushings. Since the outer bushigns are replaced by the heim joints there really is no point...

BMW 540i 6spd. Beautiful and classy style with a gorgeous interior, if youre lucky enough ot find a 6spd model youll be able to chase down e36 m3's. Youll have ot shop around for one at that price, it all depends on what year you get. Also great for long trips with the family. course eh hem this might not be the most reliable car, but whatever it still gets my pick

You got my vote for black top and gunmetal sides

Those wheels do look awesome! Love it.

I just saw this thread. The last brake job i did to my bimmer, I replaced the factory pads with EBC green stuff's. All i can say is that I am throughly disspointed, there is NOTHING good about these pads other then the price. I never exprienced brake fad on my stock pads, switching too EBC pads I have to be carefull while driving now, I will cook the pads jsut with spirited coutry drives, and dont even think about hauling it all the way down from 100mph, they are toast by hte time you get to 60! Oh and the DUSTING, low brake dust my ***. These pads have hte same grab as a cold race pad - cept when these heat up they turn to glazed POS's EBC = CRAP

kickin, what wheels are those on your car?? Those looks awesome. ive got a e36 i am more then likely going to be swapping this summer. i will prolly be doing v8 or ijz though.... due to cost ands power output. rb25 will kick *** though hope you post some pictures here!

thanks NCchris, i need to do some updateing on that site lol. Anyhow I hope you can make it out to some NC events, there are tons poping up. Triad has track days often, Zdayz is coming up, and there are also several good shows.