240hoke

WOW, Thanks for the compliments guys And to those of you asking about my car being "finsihed". Its not hehe only the outside.. still have lots of plans for it. I dont think any hybridz projects will ever truely be done . Cruez - sure jsut pm me a couple days before you get in town. Always like meeting Z car folk. Frank 280zx - Yes thats hole in my hatch Im working on finding a good rear lock, or even a new one. Right now my finger works great lol. J.Soileau - I jsut posted up the ZG wrtie up this morning check it out! I think its a sticky now. ope it helps ya. BWRex - T/C and LCA's have work flawlessly I love them. Easy to adjust and not to harsh.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am selling ZG installation kits to install ZG's just how I did in this write-up. For more information go to the "Group Buy's" Forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=788722#post788722 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey Y'all, I just got done mounting a Set of Classic Datsun ZG flares on my 1971 240z to make some clearance for some more meat. I searched through the archives and used a lot of information I found. I thought I would write it up here in one big post and share my experience. TO start with regardless of weather or not the flares are bolt on, doing this is NOT for the faint of heart. IF you are actually going to use the flares they was they were intended get ready to cut some metal!!!! Materials: - 24 -Allen button head bolts (I used stainless 1/4") - 24 -AN SS washers - 12 - 1/4" Nut inserts - 12 - SS 1/4" nuts washers and lock washers - Rubber welting - Stain black spray paint - Seam sealer and undercoating - 3M BLUE painters tape The first order of business is to mark the holes on your ZG's for where you want the bolts, try and get them as centered as possible and then drill them out to 1/4" Once this is done I started off by laying down generous amounts of painters tape around my fender where the flare is to go. I would like to stress using 3m blue painters tape. Yes is god awful expensive but it wont pull your paint off!!!! Trust me I've had it happen. Once the tape is down test fit the flare. I choose to line the rear flares up with my stock lips, a little tape and some clamps will help you hold it in place.... Once you have the flare how you want it mark the outside edge with a permanent marker along with all the holes. Double check all this! Now remove the flare and mark a second line 1" below the line for the edge of the flare. This picture doesn't show the second sharpie line but you get the point: Get out your grinder or weapon of choice and prepare for war I used my trusty 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel, I'm sure a nifty air nibbler or something would work well. But I like sparks. PROTECT YOUR PAINT towels or something... Start off by cutting the OUTER FENDER along the lower sharpie marker line. VERY IMPORTANT DON'T CUT ALL the way through. Once you have cut the out fender use some pliers and peal it back to expose the inner fender. Now cut the inner fender leaving a little lip... It should looks something like this.... (oh and a side note, watch for wires in the passenger side fender lips, the rear harness runs through there.) As you see you'll probably find some nice rust inside here, hey what a surprise its a Z car! Next order of business is drilling out the hole you marked.. you may want to test fit the flare again to double check them. Drill the holes out to 3/8" if you are using nut inserts like me. Once this is done you can remove the tape and go ahead and hammer in the nut inserts. Be careful that you don't warp the fenders! I choose to grind out a little bit around the nut insert to allow me to tack weld them in place. Don't want them spinning free. SO this is what ya got... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ********************************************************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ INSTALLATION UPDATE The nutserts used in the rear must be installed properly.. I did not do this in my ZG install writeup as I didn't have the tool to do so. What I did worked but it far from the best method. Most places I found sold expensive pneumatic installers ( about 100 bucks) so I just drilled a slightly smaller hole and pressed them in and then tack welded them. Nutserts are made to be put in the hole and then compressed to make then permanently installed without any welding. Here is a picture is a properly installed nutsert: Pegasus Racing sells a small easy to use tool that works great for this. I just got one to test it out. It is basically just a hallow nut with a serrated bottom. You hold the nut and tighten the bolt down through the center and it pulls the back of the nutsert up crushing it into the hole. I highly recommend that you purchase a tool to install the nutserts. They are 10 dollars plus shipping from Pegasus... they come with a 1/4-28 bolt which needs to be swapped to a 1/4-20. Here is the link: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...sp?Product=659 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ********************************************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- __________________ Next you have to reattach the out and inner fender to repair the unibody. You basically have to hammer the inner fender out to make a new lip. Start by creasing it a little with pliers (if you don't you'll never get it to bend it will just flex, i found this out)... Next hammer the inner fender up to meet the outer fender. It helps to go little by little tack welding as you go... When your done you should have a pretty nice lip there that wont cut your tire if you ever got up into this area. GO slow and make lots of tack/stich welds along the fender. Here si a picture jsut after I got done making teh lip.. its not fully welded yet. Just make sure you go slow dont burn the paint or warp the metal! ONce your done welding apply a generous amount of seam sealer, tape everything off again and apply some paint/undercoating to finsish the lip up! I neglected to take pictures of mine. But you get the idea. ONce the rears are complete the fronts are a piece of cake. I would bore you with details so here are a few pictures. I will say that I had to mount the flare a little higher then the stock lip to get adaquate clearence on the tire and to provide enough travel. Use nuts and washers to secure the front flare since you can get to the back... Next order of buisness is painting the flares, and mounting them up. I sanded with with 400 grit then 600 grit and layed a nice layer of satin black on them (yes spray paint ) Many people suggested running rubber welting on the flares, and It really adds a finished look to them. It will also hide any gap you have between the flare and the body. I found some nice rubber welting through Steele Rubber Products. It came in 8 foot rolls which is perfect since each flare takes almost 4' exactly. Start by cutting the welting in half length wise with a razor blade. This makes it about one inch wide which is just perfect. I then layed it along the flare and used a sharpie to make the holes and the length (metallic sharpies work awesome) Then cut out little semicircles where you marked the holes. This will allow you to push the welting in after you loosely bolt up the flares. The welting: Heres a finished welting strip: Okay bolt everything up!!! Heres how mine came out, I am very happy with the results... Hope this thread helps some people out! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am selling ZG installation kits to install ZG's just how I did in this write-up. For more information go to the "Group Buy's" Forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=788722#post788722 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Im running a 15/16th master cylinder, willwood proportioning valve, 2psi residual pressure valve, and a line lock. Im pretty confident that I have bleed hte master and all my brakes throughly.

Forrest I have had the same problem since I installed my azcar rear brakes. Pedla is MUCH more spongy then it used to be. Im curious to see what you find out. The car stops fine the pedal is just really mushy up top.

thanks guys... techinca -- I just cut about 1/4 inch out of the bracket and welded them back together. Heres a couple more shots of teh rear end kinda..

Hey guys, Here are some new pictures of my car.. I just finished my flares last night at about 2:00. The outside fo the car is prety much finished now. Im really happy with the way it turned out.. has a much more finished look now. The bumpers and headlight covers are from MSA. Lots of fitting was required for both pieces but in the end they turned out working quite well. Main thing was shortening the brackets for the bumpers to pull them in closer to the car. Wheels...are Watanabe RS-8 type R's. 16x9 front and 16x9.5 rear. Running 245/45/r16 Hancook ventus tires. The flares are Classic Datsun Zg's, all fenders were cut for adequate clearence. Im going to do a write up on Zg's installs shortly. I got the wheels from Quoc (240zmaster) and I cant say enough! Not only were they a good price, I also recieved the wheels in a little over a month from the date I ordered them (thats all the way from japan!). If you need these wheels dont hesistate to go through Quoc, he'll work you out a great price and is awesome to work with. OKay advertisement done lemme know what yall think!

saawheat! More pictures as you progress please!

Slightly modified stock manifold, external gate and some mild porting. Hoping it will take me to at least 450hp. Ive trapped 125mph@16psi so far.

I know its dumb, but I thought I would mention. Did you check the continuity of your ground to the battery negitive terminal? Even if it clean you could just have a weak spot for a ground. Where is your resistor pack mounted for your injectors? Have you checked it? That is if you are running low impedence.

Lookin awesome! 7m's are cool wheater they are tilted or not haha. Cant wait to see some numbers.

I found it works best to lay under the car with your feet on the front of the tranny and your head near the tail housing and wiggling and pushing till it goes in

All my transmissions have been from junkyards and have had questionable backgrounds. Ive been using GM syncromesh in my Datsun trannies. I used it in my 260z with a 280z 5spd for over a year after switching from redline. It did well and helped to smooth it out. My current transmission is a junkyard 280zx tranny, Ive run syncromesh in it since Ive had it on the road, shifts great and is holding some good power . I think my motor will kill it before any gear lube can.

Ive been running straight syncromesh for a couple years, its great stuff!

Vortec Bov's remain opened until boost hits.

The best thing is to just dig in. Its really quite simple once you take a look at it. Here is a litle write up I did with pictures that should give you a good idea... http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/coilovers.html

w00t, i cant wait. I have both trannnies for me and Matt waiting in my shop. Might go ahead and machine them this weekend.

I want some! Pm me with price and whatnot.

Not me ! Nice pics lol. I would cringe if she wrecked though.

thats interesting for torque numbers, neat to see hte difference between superchargin and turbo charging. I know when I put down 250 hp i was over 300 ft/lbs with my turbo motor.

I toppped my car out at 120 in a mad street race with a bad *** honda. It was crazy fer real dawg

very nice

Dont get a NA 5 spd IMO. I HATE mine. First and second gear are wayyyyy to close together and short. Completely worthless to me, I enjoyed my 280z tranny much better....

so whats the purpose of the HUGE inlet when the compressor wheel is soo tiny? I mean I think my 60-1 wheel is bigger then that...

z32

Thats not cheap IMO, especially when you have to ship it. I can get them all day long in the junkyards near me for 300 and under.