240hoke

Haha yeah those guys are pretty cool, hang out with them a good bit. They also make the listers! Adam a co-owner up there is building a 1300hp lister, yeah thats 1800lbs!! Anyway lots of useful parts for a really good price. I got all the non-visible fittings from them used and didnt had a problem with any of them. If yall ever need anything i'd be willing to pick it up for ya. Tons and tons of V8 parts in addition to al the line and fittings there.

Hey guys I just wanted to let ya'll know about an issue i had with these fittings. I saw their black AN fittings thought they looked nice and the price was even nicer so i decided to try them out on my car. I should have known better -- you pay for what you get. I used (2) -8AN 45 degree swivel fittings (1) -8AN 180 degree swivel fitting (1) -8AN straight fitting At first everything looked alright no leaks seems to go together smooth. I was messing in the engine compartment and accident bumped one of the 45 degree fittings on my fuel rail with my hand. Fuel SQUIRTED out lake crazy from the o-ring swivel section I called them and told them about it and they sent me a new fitting, thought perhaps i just got a bad one since the other ones didnt leak. I got the new one and installed it. SAME THING, except worse. Leaked horrible when wiggled or vibrated with a slow leak jsut sitting there. Called their tech to tell them about the issue i was having he basically blew me off saying they had never had any problems with them. Soo.. perhaps it was a bad run im not sure. But i took all there fittings off my car and returned them for EARL's fittings. Jsut thought i would post this up. if you are runnign SWIVEL JEG's fittings make sure you check them over well. -Austin

i love those rear flairs -- htey are like the yz but not as agressive, jsut the thing i have been looking for. have you thought about making a mold of them?

jt1 - sounds cool hopefully the z will be up to the drive we will see! mikeatrpi - Im using a milwaulke buffer. I really like it, it has a variable speed dial right on the grip for easy adjustment... here is the link for it http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product3_27_40027_-1_284390_281165_189342_362 BWrex - Thanks alot on the hood thing wasnt sure it was gonna work out but i think it flows well. The control arms and t/c rods proved to be very nice for adjustment, both being super easy to adjust. The camber being more of a pain, just took a little more time since they had to be unbolted. T/C rods were super easy to adjust, by hand no less, and seem to have plenty of adjustment. I am running just a hair more caster then stock. The heim jointed front is suprizing nice and smooth when going down the road, but make no mistake it is not for the feint of heart. Every crack and pebble in the road you will be able to feel, line markings are even transmitted. It is very tight though, and feels like its on rails. I love it but I have yet to push the car or really test it out fully. I have much learning and time that needs to be spent adjusting and setting up the suspension. Mike - thanks again im going to try the different grits on the back and see how it turns out, the outcome of that will determine weahter i tackle the front again . going home tomarrow to give it a shot, ill let ya know what happens.

damn 3 out of 3 down! Thats pretty bad! Ah well i suppose ill just wait. thought it migh be cool to go hang out with some z guys.

Thanks for the tips guys, hopefully ill be able to get home this weekend to finish up. Ill start on the back, testing out hthe different grits as I have yet to sand anything behind the front fenders. bartman -- This is the damaged hood, I would not run the other on on my car. the damage is small enough to outweigh putting the other one on my car. Kinda off topic but Mike and Mark, i remeber yall were going to VIR in a few weeks. My car wont be sorted out enough to participate. However, I may be interested in driving up there for some more break in miles and to see what the track events are all about. Can I go and just watch?

2 good coats. I basically used one gallon of clear on the car. Many people say to go ahead nad spray 3 so you have more room to work with. But at 250 a gallon on the chromaclear i jsut srayed what i had.

Mike, when you used the DA were you using it on a base/clear car? the main thing i am worried about it cutting through the clear...

Hello, I just wanted to post some pictures up of my wetsanding progress. I painted my car a little while back but wasnt happy about some places in it. I came out with a good bit of orange peel and some lint and trash in the paint. Anyway my dad helped me out with getting a good buffer for my b-day so I decided to give wetsanding a shot. It turned out AWESOME, ive only done half the car so far as it takes a good bit of time but the effort is definitly worth it. This is what i have been doing (all meguires stuff); 1. 1500 grit 2. heavy cutting compound, wool pad 3. medium cutting compound, wool pad 4. light cutting compount, wool pad 5. swirl remover, polishing pad 6. swirl remover by hand 7. wax. Hoping for some pointers here from somebody with a little more exprience then me lol, I dont really know what im doing but so far have been happy with the results. 1500grit first round of cutting compound final shine..woah did the floor change colors? I have no more peel but I am left with very very small scratches in some places that can bee seen at certain angles. im thinking about spending some more time with the light cutting compound. Any ideas?

that is very cool! I think i might jsut have to get me some of these patches!

Hey, I am running SDS and i had the exact same problem as you are decribing. My motor would cut up horrible like the ignition was cutting out or there was somehting bad wrong. I tried everything trying to fix it. New hall sensor braket, , new hall sensor, plug wires, even sent my ecu to SDS to have it checked out. Ended up i had a bad rich spike around 5K. Around 10:1 i didnt find it till i got on the dyno and ran a motec wideband on teh car. Once the rich spike was pulled out it pulled all the way to redline no problems. i would try and get your car back up around 12:1. Anyway I felt like an idiot, but my curves were linear it was jsut somthign wierd that happened. And what threw me off was my stock tach when used with hte SDS signal would cut out at 5K and then pick up hte signal again at around 5.5-6K. -Austin

it says it has power assist steering, i believe thats an electric helper motor perhaps?

That whole car is gorgeous, I love all the attention to detail, beautiful. One thing that really really really bothers me about the car is hte wheel cutouts they jsut ruin it. If they actually fit the wheels then it would look stunning, does this not bother anybody else? It stick out lie ka sore htumb to me, especially the rear. Its like the flairs werent made for the car.

paypal cant do anything for you unless they have money in their paypal account, its worthless. If you use paypal use your credit card.

Lookin good proxy ol buddy. Car sounds sounds like a beast!

can you take a picture of the flairs from farther back liek a rear 1/4 picture please?

Thanks again for hte kind words guys! cygnusx1 -- i am running a 2.5" DP to a 3" mandrel exhaust here are the pictures: http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/album595 it sounds nice but has bad drone, which is fine with me helps me not hear the other 10 million noises the car makes lol. I am adding a piece of SS flex pipe so that the rear of the exhaust can be solid mounted to keep it up close to the body.

Hey guys, thanks for the compliments! sparky -- its a Dynomax Ultraflow SS muffler, straight through 16" canister. cygnusx1 -- The bumpers are staying off for now, I would like some euro 240z bumpers or carbon fiber bumpers, but i have the money for neither so bumperless it will remain. I kinda forgot the whole saving money for aesthetic things. EZ-E -- I will be putting some black mesh on top of the i/c to help protect it. Jsut one of the many little things left to do. Ive toyed with the idea of blacking out the i/c so it will be somewhat hidden with bumpers.

Hey guys, Just got the car out on the road over xmas break, shot a little video to share. Trying to get the little kinks sorted out and get some break in miles on the motor. Still havent got all the way in it, and im running low boost around 10psi. Anyway hope yall enjoy. Still lots of work to go but things are coming together http://www4.ncsu.edu/~alhoke/z1.wmv

I believe those are 8mmx1.25 metric bolts. Same as all the suspension bolts. You can get grade 5 equivalent at lowes or home depot i think in metric thats 8.8 or something i dunno. Anyway im my opinion you should be fine with those.

I had the SCCA legal roll bar in my white 260z. i dont think it does much good being bolted to the wheel well. Isnt much structure there. But I suppose its better then nothing. I am about 6'2" and had no problems with fitting in the car comfortably, I do sit close to the wheel though. No gangsta leans here. Funny thing to note is i could pull the seat all the way up and lean the seat back it would fit under the horizontal bar, then i could slide the seat back again. i slept in my car like this a couple times. Your seats are definitly bigger then z seats. Bit very nice i would like to see some pictures, i often thought about trying to swap in some bmw seats. they are comfy. At anyrate i seriously doubbt you will have any space issues, the 4 pt bar donesnt intrude much. i can try and find some pictures of mine but i think they are on my comp back at school

are you talking about the stock nissan wires? If so i think you may run into an issue running the factory fuel sender. The fuel gauge is marked on the back as to what should go where. If those three wires you have are coming from the factory harness you just need to use your multimeter. Check from voltage on the ignition wire and then use resistence to check the other wires and gfind out where they go.

Make a plan of what you want to do. Do it right but do it in stages. A long term project is good, but it wil get drawn out and you will get tired of it, along with spending more money then you planned. I have been working every extra bit of time ive had and then some for the past year on my car and i can tell you that I am about burned out. Especially when money gets to be an issue. Im sure winding it out for hte first time will relieve everythign and make it worth it though. Looking back I have learned ALOT from my long term project, but I think I would have had much more 'fun' if i would have found a decent car to start with and done things little by little. It also give you time to appriciate each modification you do.

keep it short and enjoy it.

If people agree i can write it up alot better lol