240hoke

I think so i forgot his name I did a quick search and couldnt find it. Maybe somebody has a link. I remember it used a tubular plenum and straight runners. Looked very nice.

Thanks for the information, i got yer email. I think i am actually going to go CV's as soon as I get the money. These will have to work for now though. I switched sides and they went in fine, however one side is still alot more compressed then the other. With the drivers side almost all the way compressed. I think it will work fine for now, i couldnt find any place where it compressed it all the way. Ill stay away from shortening those things looks like a pain -Austin

okay did some more searching, found conflicting information, ill go out and swap them around. This is what i get for being lazy. -Austin

So as many of you rember i was having some trouble getting my pistons from Alex Costa.... much to my relief after 2.5 months i finally recieved my pistons. This was after making a call at least once a day for several weeks that i finally got them. I asked to have them sent next day or two day so i could have them by the weekend since I am on fall break and trying to get my car back together. I thought this seemed more then resonable after a 2.5 month wait. He agreed. I get the pistons a week later shipped ground by DHL. The pistons come in a old ratty JE piston box with no wrist pins. This didnt bother me so much as I can just use the stock ones but this still agravated me a little bit. Heres where it gets good. The pistons which are supposed to be OE spec require a different size rings. they require 1.2mm, 1.5mm, and 3mm rings where as the stock rings are 1.5, 2.0, and 4mm. With my pistons he included a set of stock hastings rings. The sizes of the rings and the ring reqiurments for the pistons were clearly marked on the boxes. He sent me the wrong size rings and didnt even bother to check.... he offered to get me a another set after i sent those back. But honestly i dont trust him enough to send my rings back to him. And I dont have another 2.5 months to wait around. End of story Alex Costa gave has horrible buisness ethics in my opinions, i felt like i got the run around, he never gave me ANY communication, I always had to call and hound him to get any information. It took him 2.5 months to deliver a product he said he would have to me in a week. when i got them they were the wrong thing, you can find my post from a while back for more in depth details. This is just my personal opinion and expirience but i would NEVER do buisness with him again, i am not one to bash anybody publicly but this whole issue has really gotten on my nerves and i thought i would inform everybody. Sooo..... I need a set of rings for a l28 stock bore with 1.2, 1.5, and 3mm rings where would be the best place to look? I am hoping to get a set this week so i can finish my motor next weekend since my fall break was wasted. Also anybody need a set of stock l28 rings?? -Austin Hoke

Hey guys, I was putting my rear end together today and ive gotten stumped on the halfshafts. Ive got two problems: This is a 1971 240z with a r200 swap (diffy bar, front and rear cross member, yada yada) its is a clutch pack LSD. I am using the halfshafts i used in my 260 with a open r200 lsd and they worked great. they are r180 halfshafts with r200 yokes. 1.) The drivers side with the longer input shaft clicks in the differential fine but the halfshaft must be compressed FULLY to be attached to the stub axle, it is so tight it bothers me..... these worked perfect in my 260, i dont get it. 2.) The passenger side length is perfect, but the circlip will not hold the halfshaft in, i can push it in and it will stay there but any slight tug will pull it right out. Im mainly worried about the drivers side being so compressed. Please help me out. -Austin

Perhaps he didnt use any sealent. My windshield looks awesome and fits great as does the hatch. i had them put in by a glass guy though. i dont expect any leaks, i bet that zcar parts piece is the same stuff. To get your windshield out you jsut pull the chrome trim up and then cut around the glass with a razor blade through the seal. Once the seal is cut get a buddy to help you lift it out. The seal will pull of the body frokm there. -Austin

I like the polished cover on there. I also think you need to get rid of the overflow bottle or at least get a smaller one, and also try and reroute some of those vaccum lines. Also you could try spining your fuel injectors around and running the EFI harness under hte fuel rail so it isnt as accented. oooo also why no just stick that filter on the block ven, instead of on that hose, you can twist it around to face away from the exhaust manifold. Hehe sorry if i sound critical just trying to help out, your car is looking great man.

Whoa dont buy that! You can get an ENTIRE rubber kit for your car, this include s all the glass weahter stripping, door, hatch, etc, etc, etc. i bought mine from Arizona Z car for 250 bucks. http://www.arizonazcar.com/seals.html you can also pick this stuff up from classic datsun. Its all precision weatherstripping. And ther is a alot of it, im impressed i with the quality. Anyway much better deal. You might as well buy it all.

That guy supposably builds some crazy stuff. My buddy bought a "turbo kit" from him with a p90 head, electronics, turbo etc. When he went to pick it up the guy showed him his cars. He is running 11's on stock N/A wiring harnesses and ECU's. I havent meet the guy in person but my buddy also saw those manifolds when he was there said the guy ported them out all the way up the runner till they were almost paper thin. Alot of work inthat manifold, not sure if its worth it though. I think I would rather have a ported intake then a aftermarket one... i havnt seen an aftermarket manifold i really like the design of. I think there was a guy on zcar.com sellign a nice piece but there was some dispute over the design. -Austin

Thanks again on the compliments -- hood will remain carbon for now, its so beautiful i cant bring myself to paint it... well except it got damaged in transit, it has a busted corner and im waiting on replacement. Dunno whats gonna happen to it but would be a perfect canidate for paint. Anywho, on the fuel cell placement, i would consider doing it somewhat different. I plan on redesigning mine so that i have some type of sheet metal around it so i can pass SCCA regualtion. but anyway.. the battery is mounted behind my passenger seat -- its a oddysey battery. 99 bucks for a light drycell battery! Check them out, you can get them from west coast batteries. Ill post a picture of it tomrrow, im at home on fall break so i dont have all the pictures on this computer.

Hurm injteresting, well sounds like i need to add a restrictor? Any idea on how much spool time is decreased? I think im gonna do some testing ill reinstall my oil feed how it is, dyno it, and then on the next run add the restrictor. has anyone done this before?

NIce work! Loooks good how you kinda molded it in to fit with the fender well. Looks like youve been having fun lol! Keep it up.

nice work. did you tig it or mig it?

Also I am not running any type of restrictor... havent had any problems with it. Whats the purpose, to just keep to much oil pressure from the bearing and blowing through the seals? i ran mine long and hard for a year wihtout any issues what-so-ever

I just ran a tap in my block with lots of grease on it to catch the filings and then cleaned it as best i could. The thread are so close it worked fine for me.

I used all QA1 stuff, which is pretty high quality. I bought all my stuff from local race shops that supply nascar teams with parts, but they still arent the best out there. My car wont be a daily driver, so longevity isnt a huge issue. Plus they can be swapped out for a reasonable price.

dual port wg actualtor are not that great, im running one on my setup. Donest seem to work any better IMO. And i understand that is SHOULD work better and gthe theory behind it butttt, mine still required quite a mighty helper spring. How does the dual port actuator work.. Well you apply a boost signal to both sides of the diphram and then rig your electronic boost controllor to bleed the boost off of the bottom when the time is right thus opening the wg. By doing so you have boost pressure holding the wg shut.

Thanks guys just waiting on my pistons then ill be geting her just about done. When my pistons get here... well who knows when that will be i was hoping this weekend. peej410 - On the hood -- it is from Alex (sr240z) I believe he has a couple more for sale, it is fiberglass/carbon and is OUTSTANDING quality. Fit is great and it looks awesome go to http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/products/products.html for more info. i jsut need my vintage z carbon to match!! cant wait for it. BWRex -- Hehe I didnt think anybody actually looked at my website, I had given up with it perhaps I will update it sometimes lol.

Haha, I clicked on this post thinking it was somebody elses, only to relise mine had come back from the dead! Thats again for the compliments here a a few more pictures of the progress: Lots of work to go! Building the engine this weekend hopefully