240hoke

Hey, Youve got the oil outlet and coolant points labled correctly. I dont have any exprience plumbing hte water cooled turbos, I jsut went with a oil cooled turbo. However from looking at your pictures it appears to me that those coolant threads are just pipe treads ( i could be wrong here ) but i would think that you culd get some AN fitting for them. -Austin

ick, my eyes are covered I dont want to see any more rust, got any pictures of the job finshed? ONe a side note i just cut out the rear dogleg i guess you would call it, the lower rea quarter panel jsut in front of the tires. I got my patch panels in from tabco. The rusts behind was worse then i had anticipated. Any of you guy have any pictures of rust repir on the rear of the rocker arms (like the inside where is molds into the body). The actualy rocker is fine inside and out its just the very end of it in the rear. -Austin

Thanks for the clarification, that makes sense to me now. How much do those camber plates run? I saw on gc's website they had them for sale but i couldnt tell what they were selling them as, ea, pair, or all four. There were 400 bucks i believe. And if thats each then damn i htink ill slot my tower or something lol. -Austin

Hey cyrus, I was just questioning why you would need adjustability on the top and bottom, i thought they served the same purpose. I guess the camber plates do give you another inch of travel. i need to have camber adjustability, but im not sure what exactly i should be looking too. I have the heim joint to make my own lower a-arms, -Austin

im useing a hobart 220v 180w with gas. And yes i did have some trouble with the warping on the flat pieces between the tunnel and the s/f connectors. I am going to blame it more on my skils then the welder though. Like i said this is really my first go aroudn at everything. IT really isnt too bad defintly not notciable with carpet and honestly prolly not notciable to any degree jsut painted homefully. Perhaps a better nchoise would be to stich weld it and then seal it im not sure, I thought welding everything would make it the most stiff. But maybe somebody with more expirience could chime in on this Im hoping to finish the project at the begining of summer. BUt we will see how everyhting goes lol. More like when i run out of money. Im in HS now so im not currently working, trying to get through with the insurance money i got. But i think thats gonna have ot change if i wanna finish and follow through with my goals. -Austin

Looks nice, I may have to go with a similar setup myself. Couple of questions: 1.) ar thouse koni's adjustable adn what s/r can they handle? 2.) How much were the top comaber plates, and whast the purpose of having a lower adjustable a-arm and the cmaber plate, is one better then the other? good luck with the install ill be looking forward to seeing how it works out for you -Austin

haha i might. BUt not till my project is finished. Or at least on the road and driving lol. -Austin

Hey guys, thanks once again for all the positive comments. ON the t/c mount and the sway bar mount. I have a little write up about what i did on the site that explains the sway bar mounts. I went up to 3/8" bolts and welded nuts onto the original spacer plate and then welded the plate to the frame rail -- might sound confusing but i've got pictures on the site that should clarify it. About those t/c mounts..... wellllll..... I took a few measurements before i cut everythign out and then got them welded back on as best i could. To be honest im fairly confident they will be off a little bit lol. But Hopefully not anything more then i can fix with some shims or, if i have to, adjustable pieces which i want anyway xmem was the same way, I did this one side at a time, and took measurementrs, I made exactly sure that the xmem was right, this wasnt a hard task as it is pretty easy to measure out. -Austin

Hey guys, thanks for the positive remarks. haha I too would have not bought this car or attempted work on it if I would have know it was so bad. The people who had "fixed" the rust before jsut put aluminum flashing over the bottom and frame rails and undercoated it. I bought the car without ever opening the hood or looking inside. I jsut saw it out in a parking lot and called the guy. Once I found out how bad the rust was, I couldnt really cut my losses because I would have lost too much to get another car so I plugged away at it. Still alot of work, but getting there. I am the second owner so I do feel like im saving something here. -Austin

Well I wasnt sure what section to put this in, but I choose here since it had to do with stregthening the chassis. Anyway a couple months ago i posted about figureing out how to fix my rust problems lol. Well after alot more work then i thought im nearing getting done with it. Ive learned a good bit about welding amoung other things as this has been my first attempts at welding. Anyway here aresome pictures, thought yall might enjoy. rust before after: floor boards: frame rail (this pic was taken before i was completely finsihed welding) for more pics and info on my car you can visit: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt

good choice! im my opinion that will make a world of a difference in your car. It should look great!! -Austin

lowering springs! *buy them from me and some tockio blues to go along with them! -Austin

Hey thanks for the reply's john that bar in the 72 z looks awesome, I think that would be most practical for my application. I have the autopower "scca" legal roll bar now but its kinda small and just bolts to the fender wells. I figure I could work with in and add some to it we will see. Thanks for the pictures! -Austin

anybody???

Hey Guys, Im almost done getting the floor pans, subframe connectors, and front rails done on my car. And I need to start looking into cages. Heres a link to my car and what I've been doing: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt Im looking for any suggestions on what type of cage and where to get it from. Ive looked at the S&W cages, Autopower, and going custom. S&W is really cheap and I have a welder and the nessacary stuff to install it but Im alittle worried about quality. Autopower is expensive and would be almost as much as a custom cage, I also cant find any pictures of either one of these cages in Zs. If you've got a cage in yours or have some pics of one please send them to me or post a link or something here, that would be awesome. My other problem is at first I was looking into a full cage but got to thinking about the safety of the front tubes in a crash on the street which will be where alot of my dirving will be. When I wrecked my first Z I hit the top of the door really hard and I prolly would have been kocked out if there was a cage there. So Im considering going with a half cage. Please opinions and suggestions!! -Austin

I have heard of people using epoxy to keep them in place. This is what i will do most likely. -Austin

Hey guys, I really dont know that much, okay anything, about he carb'd turbo systems. But i was reading through this post and that light throttle condition and thought about the supercharger blowoff valves like the VORTEC. These type blow off vavles flow alot of air and are open till you reach positive manifold pressure. Granted this isnt the best for building boost, but i ran one on my turbo z for a while and it wasnt too bad. Just thought it might be a possibility for the carb'd guys. *dont flame * just a thought

make me one please that exhaust manifold looks nasty.

I am in need of one also. I was planning on doing it with sheetmetal, but i know this will turn out ghetto. If anybody can get me one, lemme know too thanks -Austin

Ive been doing some thinking, and decided to hold back my zedd order. And I am wondering if it would be better to try and just make the floorpans out of sheetmetal since i am already going to be cutting them up for the subframe connectors. This would save me a couple hundred bucks. what do you guys suggest?