240hoke

Hey, It was the wastegate actuator. i swapped it out for one my buddy had and it holds 14 psi and doesn't drop a bit. I did notice that the actuator was a good bit harder to put on. Anyway thought id let yall know. Thanks for the suggestions!.

I'm useing a hallman boost controller, the stock wastegate actuator is pretty tough to put on you have to pull it over the little pin. The BOV leaking or pipe leaking could be the culprit, what a good way to check? This is also a 20yr old turbo that has had nothing done to it so maybe it just about had it.

hey, i ran for a few months without any heat shielding whatsoever, even even with the none webbed N42 intake. Didn't expirience any problems, but it was only for a couple of months so wasn't really long enough to show anything. Since then i have wrapped my downpipe and built a heat shield to protect the brake compnents. I made the heat sheat out of two sheets of Very thin stamped stainless steel with a ceramic fiber in the middle. It not to big since i made it out of scraps from the race shop but it does it's job. Haven't decided on how to do the intake becuase I shaved the mounting points for the stock shield (dumb). Any how i'll post some pics on my page later tonight: http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/heatshield

Wel ive got a ss 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe, with 3" mandrel bent piping from there back. i do have a single chamber flowmaster, thats the only resistion point there could be, but its possible i had the dyno guy to tell me to get that thing offa the car and go with a straight pipe or a straight through muffler. -Austin

Aight guys now that got my 370cc injectors installed i reidid my mapps and started turning up the boost. Heres what happens: I turned the boost up to 12 psi. The boost will spike to 12 and then drop back to 10 psi and i have to have my foot planted to keep it at 10 it really wants to drop. Im running a medium NPR w/ 2.5" piping. I figure this is swallowing my turbo whole and the T3 just cant flow the air. i don't know, what's you guys take? -Austin

hey, thanks for the replies, im going to give the baseball bat a try since i havn't lowered the car yet there should be enough room to fit it without creasing the fender, if not i'll break out the ol pliers. -Austin

Hey, I just installed a set of 225/50/16 dunlops on my car. Whenever i go over bumps or under hard steering/acceleration they are rubbing the fender in the back. Looking for advice on how to go about rolling the inside endge up. Thanks Austin

Thanks for all the reply guys, ill let you know what i decide on and how they work. -Austin

wow thatrs. interesting. So it doesn't interfer with how the LSd works at all? If everything works fine i dont see why that would be a bad idea. What are other people ideas on this? -Austin

Thanks for the info guys -Austin

Ive been looking at Dunlop's SP FM901 tires, anybody used these?

I'm getting a set of 16x7 panasports for my 260zt and was curious what tires you guys prefer. Im looking to get 225/50/16's for the front and rear. Any advice on brand or size would be awesome. thanks -Austin

I've got two differnt part numbers on my injectors: E5ZE-A3B and A5ZE-A3A. For those that are using these or have used them, Is there a differnce between the two and what are the part numbers on you guys' injectors. Thanks -Austin

i just bought a set of SVO injectors to swap into my turbo project. im looking for a good place to have them cleaned, there aren't any places locally that can do the work. Thought you guys might have some recommendations for me. Thanks -Austin

I was afraid of this. I dont have the splines CV's or anything. I was planning on useing the standard u-joint with 280z halfshafts. But thats out the window. I have already made the crossmember to allow for the finned cover. Whats a set of CV's and adaptors gonna run me? Do any of you guys have a set? -Austin

I have an 3.7 LSD from an 88 300zx. Anyway i started cleaning it up today and under all the grime i found an orange "viscous LSD" sticker. I already had all my parts together so i am kinda pissed. How can i bee sure its definitly a viscous LSD. In the below post someone mentioned that you could look clear through a clutch type LSD. I can on mine. If it helps i have posted pictures showing all marking on the diffy. http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/LSD -Austin

I'm using a 240sx TB and TPS sensor. The 240sx sensor is both swith and potientiometer(sp?). For the sds you use the 3 wires coming from the bottom of the sensor, which is for the potientiometer part. Hope this helps. -Austin Oh btw no Z TPS sensors will work with sds because they are all switch type, but i figure you know that already.

you have to wire it to the wires coming from the bottom of the TPS. Just check the risitance from the sds manual and hook up your connector. The switch type tps plug in is not used.

I called MSA last weeks to order my wheels and they were backordered for a month

I'd hold out for a factory LSD or the quaife. I was going to go the 4.11 with phantom grip route. But i sold the 4.11 and bought a 3.7 LSD for $300. Came out way on top as far as money goes, and i know it will preform better.

Thanks ON3GO. For the z i just cut out a stencil and spray painted it, turned out a waste cuz you cant see it through the bumper and grill, would look awesome w/o grille and smaller bumpers. The radiator is a MSA four row, i had to modify the mounts to get the 2.5" pipe through. I don't even know what type fans they are I picked them up at a local race parts store. I ran duals but i think one would work fine, less money and less current draw.

Here's sum pics, surge tank front mount i/c and better engine pic http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/Engine.html

Yeah im running two electric fans(10" i believe), the fit is still tight with 2.5 inch pipe. I'll get some pics of my surge tank posted tommarrow. -Austin

I just picked up a '88 3.7 LSD today and and trying to put together pices for the swap into my 260z. From what i've read i will need to replace the flange on the front, along with the driveshaft, halfshafts, and rear diff mount bar. Im kinda confused on the halfshafts, what year do i need? On brian littles's webpage it says the r180 halfshafts and driveshaft will work but i haven't seen this anywhere else, but i can't find a definite answer. Also I would like to keep the rear cover and have seen several custom rear crossmembers made, curious if anyone has some pictures or deminsion of theirs. Or am i wasting my time keeping the finned cover? Is their anything else i need? Thanks -Austin

Well im running a surge tank in my car with the original gas tank. I have run the tank down to .5 gallons and havent had a single problem around turns. I can post some pics if you would like. A surge tank is easy to make, 3" exhaust tubing would work perfect. I made mine out of 3", 1/4" steel lol. Oh and btw, im can't go past 5000 rpms. But i think its an ignition issue not fuel starvation