Six_Shooter
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Posts posted by Six_Shooter
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Sounds like a good idea to me.
Other than posting in the specific engine or chassis forums, I don't see anywhere that this subject could be posted in.
Discussing cooling system aspects alone can be useful. -
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If that cover clears it will be extremely close. If you didn't want to bolt the hood back on to check, you can use some cardboard or other stiff, but easily cut material, cut to the shape of the hood at that point lengthwise, and then used to check clearance. You may need to make a few templates along the length to know for sure. We have some thin, but pretty strong cardboard at work that I believe is called "patterning cardboard", at least that's what we refer to it as. It makes life so simple when trying to make patterns, since it's thin, about the thickness of about 4 pages of construction paper, fairly large, about 2' by 3', and can easily be taped together, bent and holds it's shape nicely. Baring getting your hands on some of that a few taped together pizza boxes can do the trick as well.
lol
Cutting the firewall and moving the engine back not an option? I know that might entail what may seem like a lot of work, but may be the best solution overall and may end up being less work than trying to rework an oiling system, unless there's already an aftermarket option for that. Where does the shifter land in relation to the stock shifter hole?
Can you get some pictures of the original chassis for this engine? Where does the front cradle/crossmember/suspension fit in relation to the engine in that chassis? There might be some parts or ideas to use from that. -
I'd buy whatever you can find in the best condition. My recommendation is don't give a crap about what the stock engine is, they are quite frankly all worthless and any money spent on them would be better spent on a modern engine. I'm sure some people which mod them will disagree but hp/doller a motor swap is the best. A 280z will be the easier platform to start with because you will probably be able to reuse the stock fuel injection stuff (fuel pump, tank, fuel lines), and they also will have slightly stronger axles.
While I agree that technology has certainly progressed to a point where power seems to be more easily produced per cubic displacement, for some people playing with the L-series will bring a lot of satisfaction. For some people a couple to few hundred horsepower is all they need and is easily produced by an L-series.
I'm not sure a 280Z is necessarily best for the reasons you give. IIRC the 280Z uses very small fuel lines, that most people would likely replace with an engine swap, and even if they weren't undersized, they will likely, unless you get a well taken care of car need to be replaced anyway. The axles are the same strength wise for all S30s. It seems that some 280Zs that were equipped with an R200 had a slightly different axle than those equipped with an R180, due to the increased width, but these were not any stronger than other stock axles.
Back when I had my L-series in my car still (up until last summer) I was very happy with the power it produced, and it was a stock L28 that I added a turbo and EFI to. In fact I was so happy with it that it spent about 4 or 5 more years than I had intended under the hood of my car. I only swapped it out because it was time for me to swap in the engine that I intended to have installed years ago when I bought my car.
Recommend an engine. That's what he's looking for. "Modern engine" can barely be more undefined.
To some, the L-series is a "modern engine", so I agree the term is pretty open ended.
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I was thinking about this the other day..
Pull the sensor out to see which type it is. There are two types of MAT sensors in this style, one is what is called a "closed element", the other is an "open element".The closed element looks more like a coolant sensor, and is completely brass on the tip, with no openings, the open element has a plastic cap and has opening sin teh plastic cap to allow the air to pass directly across the sensor element.
I'm thinking that if you have a closed element it might start to explain the large jump in temperature, though I still think the sensor calibration is off.
I only ever use open element MAT sensors because I don't want heat soak of the sensor body to ever be a problem.
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I'm no engineer, so I may be completely wrong here, but I would assume that as you let off the gas pedal the airflow through the intake is drastically reduced, which would result in air moving much slower through the intercooler, and causing the air to not be cooled efficiently. Stagnant air in an intercooler doesn't get cooled as efficiently as properly moving air, so it makes sense to me that you see an increase in intake temps while everything else (Pipes) remain cool. Again, I'm no engineer but that's my two cents.
This is basically what is happening.
At low throttle angles the air flow isn't high enough to pull in cold air before it gets heated by the engine bay heat, or the heat soaked intake manifold.
The temperatures you are reporting are excessive. Can you post the temps as they were in *C, I'm wondering if maybe your conversions are a bit off, or maybe the MS calibration is off for the MAT.
Back when I had my turbo L28, I would see cruise intake temps of around 105 to 115 *F with ambient temps between 75 and 90 *F. When stopped the temps would typically rise by about 5 to 10 degrees. When in boost my intake temps would drop to within a couple degrees of ambient.
Just FYI, my new engine a V6, using the same turbo and IC, reacts the same way, with similar temp readings.
My MAT (Manifold Temp Sensor, since technically an IAT would be pre-throttle body), was mounted just behind the throttle body, where the cold start injector used to be, which would be closer to the throttle body than where yours is mounted, but should make that much of a difference.
Just FYI, I did notice my cruising intake temps drop by about 20*F when I moved my filter from the engine bay out in front of the rad. I used a 3" tube and ran it under the left frame rail, and then below the IC. My car is an S30, but you might be able to do something similar on your car.
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Have you tried that 11/16" slave yet? That solved my clutch disengagement issues.
K.I.S.S....
Don't over think it, you'll do more work than you need for same or worse result.
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When I first read "aluminum distributor cap" I thought, "well that isn't going to work very well..."
Then I see that it's for using DIS. LOL
Looks good, I like it.
Sorry, I don't have an L28 anymore, and when I did I ran a differnt style DIS, where I was able to eliminate the dizzy completely. Just wanted to comment on how good it looks. -
By fastener standards the minimum amount of thread engagement length should be equal to the diameter of the fastener.
So a 1/2" threaded fastener should have a minimum of 1/2" length of engagement.
That being said, for something like a suspension component, I would like at least 50% more than this, just in the off chance that somehow the jam nut comes loose and the starts to un-thread the tie-rod. Yeah, and unlikely scenario, but it could happen. I figure that having more thread engaged if this situation were to happen, I'd likely notice the car feeling off, or see it in the wheel before the situation got beyond a point of being able to repair it.
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This might get a bit wordy as well...
So my '73 was original automatic, unimportant, but part of the story. I swapped in a 4 speed initially with a 225mm centerforce DF clutch. I used stock master and slave, 5/8" master, 3/4" slave. This worked well for a few years, even after turbocharging the engine and would shift regularly above 6000 RPM. I noticed a bit of an issue if I really tried to rev the engine much higher trying to get the clutch to disengage. It would work, but never felt as smooth as I would have liked.
Over the last couple of years I found that the clutch disengagement just didn't seem as good as it once was. The slave might have been failing.
Well, move up to last summer, when I swapped in a different drive line consisting of a GM 3.5L V6 mated to a 1992 Z32 transmission. (required a custom adapter, might be an important detail). I was able to keep the Centerforce DF clutch that I had been using for a few years with the turbo L28 (Thanks Nissan for keeping input splines the same ). Once I swapped the new driveline in, I was left with a little bit more play in the clutch arm travel than I liked, but I figured I'd give it a try as it was, since no one had done a swap like this before me,so there really was no reference for what might or might not have worked here. Note: the Z32 throwout bearing will fit on the S30 clutch sleeve, but is a bit thicker, which might help someone. It was my back up plan if the clutch didn't work out well. It is larger in diameter, so it may have trouble fitting with some pressure plates.
I would occasionally not be able to shift into gear at a stop (would take several pumps to get it to go), and pretty much forget shifting in anger. This indicated a hydraulic problem, but could never find a leak, flex hose looks good and the fluid was always up.
Fast forward to this spring when I finally got fed up with the situation, threw the car on the hoist and checked everything. ZERO leaks, it even seemed to work right on teh hoist. Well I had other clutch hydraulic parts that I got out of parts cars or from friends, so I decided to swap both the master and slave. Out of the two spare masters I had, only one was good, so I swapped it on. I then noticed that one of the slaves I had was an 11/16 version, and thought about it for a few minutes and decided to try it because if I had my hydraulic thinking correct, this would give me a bit more throw, with a slightly higher pedal effort.
After some difficulty getting it to bleed, I decided to swap the original master back on, no change in bleeding, and finally after way too long found that the bleeder hole in the body of the slave (not the bleeder nut itself), was plugged with something. Once that was cleaned out, it bled as one would expect. (I spent way too long finding that problem :/ )
The result?
I can now shift in anger, or joy, or any other mood at any RPM I want without issue.
So I give a thumbs up for trying that 11/16th master, it might be just what you need, especially if you have an after market clutch that might require a little more throw to function properly. Just make sure you don't get too much throw, that could damage the pressure plate. I don't know where mine came from, so I can't say if the Pathfinder one would be the same, but it should work, seeing as the transmissions are the same as the one I have in my car (FS5R30A), and I had both the stock S30 slave bolted onto the trans and this 11/16th version.
BTW, the Z32 clutch fork is the same shape as the S30/S130 uses, but is made from a thicker material, so you might also want to look into using one if you feel that the clutch fork is flexing. -
I agree, just flush and replace fluid, no need to waste money simply because you're not sure of condition. Diffs usually don't develop problems, especially from sitting if they are sealed up.
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I'm quite sure it's not a Z car, I just found a video talking about the cars and the scene with the car in question was at least partially in the video.
The shape of the fenders is wrong, and looks more like an MG, than a Z to me. -
It looked bluish to me? At the first mountain crevice scene?
That's the only point I saw a car that could be an S30 or S130, but I'm not convinced until I am able to study it closer. I haven't been able to find any pictures or a copy (een a poor one) of the movie yet to get a screen cap from.
It looked like it was bare metal to me, with a black painted hood bulge.
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Or just about any hot rod interior since the '30's...
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What material are you using?
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Just close it and try again. I got that pop up on a few pics, but was able to see all of them.
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You could also try it both ways and see which way works better for you. You could also buy more springs at different rates and fine tune it for your driving style and use.
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I'm not really sure I want to admit to watching this movie...
Superfast (2015)
It's a parody of the Fast and Furious franchise. There's some funny parts but overall, not really worth the watch. -
It sounds like the original flasher had issues to begin with, where the flash rate was slow with conventional bulbs installed.
You are correct that the LED has a lower current draw and will not cause a conventional bi-metal flasher to operate. Even some early "electronic" flashers may not flash at the correct rate, since some of them still relied on the higher current draw of a conventional bulb.
I bought a flasher years ago when I replaced my tail light bulbs with LED that was meant for a "hybrid" system, that still had conventional bulbs and LEDs installed on the same circuit. I'm not sure how much I believe this special designation/application. The one I bought didn't require any additional wires, IIRC. If it did it was a simple ground and easy to install. -
No braking ability won't be effected, because hydraulics.
It seems the spacers were not the correct thickness if you had to modify the calipers to clear the rotor.
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In North America the 260Z was a one year only car for 1974, in 1975 the 280Z was released. Both early and late 1974s were or should have been registered as 1974.
Does the VIN on your build plate match the car's VIN? Being 12/74 build date would be odd for a North American car. Maybe it was imported at some point, or ended up in the wrong shipping container back when it was new?
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I've done it without removing the glass on my '73, but it was quite a bit more difficult than out was without the glass in the way. It would actually take less time to remove the glass than it did to swap the lock cylinder with the glass in place IIRC.
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Yep, as stated, the needles will pull off the spindle. Some people recommend using a fork to get under the needle center and be able to apply some light leverage using the curve of the fork as a fulcrum. Often I just pull them off by hand, but as stated, the plastic caps can pull off easily. You can simply glue the caps back on if that happens.
I painted the needles of all of my OEM gauges with a florescent orange paint, that is sold as a gauge needle restoration paint. I retained the black faces, since I prefer black faces over white.
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That sucks and from the pictures looks like it was quite the hit.
This is the very reason I added a 3rd brake light to my 240. I had too many close calls with people panic stopping behind me, because they didn't realize I was stopped. Ever since I have noticed a great reduction in panic stops.
lol
). Once I swapped the new driveline in, I was left with a little bit more play in the clutch arm travel than I liked, but I figured I'd give it a try as it was, since no one had done a swap like this before me,so there really was no reference for what might or might not have worked here. Note: the Z32 throwout bearing will fit on the S30 clutch sleeve, but is a bit thicker, which might help someone. It was my back up plan if the clutch didn't work out well. It is larger in diameter, so it may have trouble fitting with some pressure plates. 
Trying to set timing
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
Are you trying to get the engine to idle lower?
If so, that is not done (entire) through setting timing. Timing is a relation of when spark occurs in relation to the position of the crank, or more correctly the position of the #1 piston (in most engines), to TDC, when the crank is at a specific position.
Ignition timing will have an effect on idle speed, but the greater contributor to idle speed is carb set-up, specifically the position of the throttle plates at idle. To get to minimum idle speed you may have to go back and forth between throttle plate position and base timing, if the carbs are far from proper set-up, other wise you should be able to get the idle speed as low as you can, set the base timing to spec and then set idle speed.