Six_Shooter
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Posts posted by Six_Shooter
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I used my original cross member an driveshaft.
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That's pretty much it. You may not need to cut a hole, but rather trim out the front part of the hole for more shifter clearance.
I'm sure there are a few posts about this, I know I posted some details of my swap a few years ago, and I THINK I posted it on here. If I didn't, there are some general details in my build thread, or should be. -
The torque applied to the steering components would be the same or very close, it's the input torque (from your hands/arms) that is reduced through the use of power steering such as this.
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If I where to find one of this unicorns about how much would cost me?
Whatever the seller wants to charge.
I've never seen one for sale, well at least no pricing. Apparently a guy was going to sell me one about a month ago, but never got back to me with a price. :/
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Good luck finding one, or at least someone willing to sell one.
It's a Kamei air dam. The all seem to have "come with the car" when the owners have bought them. I have not found a source for one and anyone that has one does not seem to be interested in selling.
The one you linked a picture to has had a small lip added below.
I started a thread a few months ago asking about more information on it, it should still be on the first page of this forum.
If you find one, hopefully you can find two, so that I can get one as well.
I'll likely just end up making one.
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My trick to getting the reaction disc out is to shake the booster until the reaction disc is to one side, usually it goes with gravity, so the bottom.
Then using a rag and place it in the booster through the pushrod hole. Flip the booster around so that the reaction disc lands on the rag and you can retrieve it.
I spent about 20 minutes trying without the rag, it took me literally 5 seconds once the rag was installed to retrieve the reaction disc. I would keep seeing it float past the pushrod hole, taunting me. lol -
What's age have to do with not building cars?
My Grandfather is in his '80s and while he doesn't build them from as scratch as he used to, he still tinkers and modifys the cars he has, and that we build together. -
your missing the point here!
NO engine stand design that is safe too use should have a tendency to tip simply because it has a caster wheel roll over a dropped wrench, or hit a floor seam or some other common shop floor hazard, a properly designed engine stand with decent size swivel casters easily takes that type of obstacle in stride, it should remain stable and have no tendency to tip over. its just not that expensive or difficult to select a decent engine stand and go to the minimal effort required to install decent size and quality casters, that make moving the engine stand with the engine mounted far easier and safer and with far less of a tendency to tip even if it does hit some object on the floor.
yes It does take some extra effort , or expense to buy and install the larger casters or select a engine stand design with a wide base that is far more stable to begin with.
yes we all make choices and price is obviously one factor, but saving $100 or so and working with an engine stand thats inherently unstable is in my opinion a poor choice
adding these caster wheels to all my engine stands made a huge improvement to the shops engine stands
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-cushion-tire-swivel-caster-with-brake-46819.html
each of us is free to make our own choices , but having an engine fall and potentially injure me is one I can most likely avoid
I didn't miss the point at all. Price of a tool has ZERO bearing on how it's used, or what can cause it to malfunction when forced to work in ways it's not supposed to.
I have NEVER seen, or used an engine stand that would simply roll over a wrench, or most other debris on a shop floor, and I've used some over priced engine stands.
The fact still remains that you're blaming the wrong item for the issue. The problem was not with the engine stand, it was with the floor being in poor repair, or a piece of debris that should have been cleared from the path of the engine stand before it was moved.
Paying more for an engine stand does not negate your inability to take due care when performing an operation.
It sounds to me more like the wrong engine stand was chosen for the engine that was put on it, not that it was less money. There are different sizes of engine stands for a reason, and that is so that the right engine stand can be used for the right engine that will be mounted on it.
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*sigh*
Assuming complete conversion where there are no existing use-able parts, no existing tuning equipment/softeware and not including fuel system, because that should, again be tailored to the use of the engine:
ECM: $25 to $50 from wreckers/used
Harness: $25 to $75 from wreckers/usedSensors/supporting electronics: $25 to $300 (Same as MS, or any other EFI FWIW, either go used or go new)
Tuning aspect:
Datalogging cable: $10 to $80 (Depends on whether you make your own or buy pre-made, Moates: $80)
EPROM Programmer: $35 to $125 (Moates BURN2 is $80)EEPROM: $3 to $5
ECM adapter for EEPROM: $30 to $35 from moates, if you're inventive and handy, you can make this part cheaper.
Tuning software: Free or $39 for Tuner Pro RT, there are other more expensive options but they don't seem as expandable or user friendly.
If you want to add real time tuning:
Ostrich 2.0: $175
And this is the part where it can get a bit confusing, because there are options, not ALL of the tuning equipment is needed, if you don't care about using an EEPROM at all, the programmer and EEPROMs can be left out, if you don't want real time tuning, the Ostrich can be left out, which is why I really say that the person that wants to do this has to do their own research and there really is no one-size-fits-all guide to this.There are a lot of similarities between all swaps/conversions, but too many people think they need to follow one guide verbatim and when it's not an exact fit they have a hard time figuring out why their set-up doesn't run as well as it should. This goes for any EMS that is being used, there will be subtleties that need to be figured out before hand.
So the cheapest way: approx $155 (I've actually spent less on a couple conversions)Add real time tuning: $330
Most expensive: $709
Add real time tuning: $884
There are other variables that will change the cost, like adding DIS, a trigger wheel will need to be made for the DIS system, and the parts which will add to the cost, above I assumed using an existing electronic dizzy to trigger the Delco ICM (Ignition Control Module). If the engine currently has a points dizzy, this will add to the cost, but the same applies for using any other EMS. The above pricing is based on only what would be different from using other EMS
I have never seen anyone spend more than a few hundred to install a Delco EMS in their car though, when they put the system together themselves. There are suppliers that will sell a complete EFI system based on Delco electronics for between $1200 and $2000, but you are paying for all new parts and their time to assemble everything for you.
MS is likely still easier to set-up, solely because it's designed to be "universal", and it's more popular in the conversion crowd, but the Delco is not difficult to setup, just takes a different way of thinking about it. Make the ECM happy with giving it signals it needs/wants and it will give the outputs that you need, which applies to any EMS.
yes, AFAIK there are only two of us using Delco EFI on our L-series, IIRC we are both turbo as well, soon there will be only one, since I am swapping to a different engine, but keeping my EFI system. I helped guide one of the guys in Australia that helped on that conversion. AFAIK, I was the first person to use a full Delco system on an L-series, but I have no real way to confirm that 100%. -
That's the thing, you don't need to be into computers to tune a Delco ECM, there are many newbies to Delco tuning that are not computer people and have successfully tuned their vehicles in a matter of days to weeks. The idea of tuning is very much the same regardless of which EMS is being used. The hardware is the only difference, and even most of that has the same needs and functions. If someone can tune an MS, they can tune a Delco.
The only "hard" part about using a Delco ECM, is that for different engine applications there can be better "codes" to start with. This is still not an issue, when you realize that your engine combination is similar to what was available in X car, and that code will work in Y ECM. This is where the people that have been doing it for a while can help steer newbies or people that are unsure in the right direction.
Since there are so many ways that an L-series could be injected (MPFI, TBI, dual TBI, N/A, forced induction, DIS, dizzy, etc.), it would be difficult to create a "one size fits all" type of how-to, this is where spending a little time researching will help each individual get to where they want to be.
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The support is great in the community. I help run a website that is specifically for tuning, and the majority of us there use Delco electronics. www.gearhead-efi.com
www.moates.net sells the products, and I use a lot of products from them, Ostrich 2.0 (I have 3, one stays in my car as a "permanent" install), AutoProm, Chip Extender, BURN2, and a few other products.
Software is available at www.tunerpro.net. The software is fully functional as it is downloaded, but has a 10 "nag" window at start up that can be bypassed by sending Mark a $39 donation, that is for registration, that NEVER expires! You can also install the program on as many computers as you want without needing to re-register.I will discuss OBD1 Delco, since I am more familiar with it than the OBD2.
You have several options for actual tuning. You can do it via the chip burning option that is the cheapest option, but takes the longest because any changes need to be made and the programmed to an EEPROM (AKA "chip"), re-installed, tested and repeat.
The option I prefer is "real time tuning", that uses an EPROM emulator that gets plugged into the ECM in place of the EEPROM, and is programmed via a USB cable that is connected to a laptop. Changes can be made while the vehicle is running, and even driving down the road (though it is suggested that someone ELSE is driving while you are making adjustments, if that's how you want to do it).The actual hardware needed to install an EEPROM (or emulator) to your ECM depends on exactly which ECM you use, though there really is only two different adapters, because GM kept same formats for many years. The old TBI ECMs require an adapter that needs to be soldered to the daughter board in those ECMs. Most MPFI ECMs and newer TBI PCMs use a plug in "MEMCAL adapter". On some of the ECMs/PCMs that use MEMCALs I have removed the original EPROM and replaced it with either a socket or an EEPROM to make re-flashing easier.
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So instead of blaming the root causes, being a damaged floor and debris on the floor, you blame the engine stand?
That's like blaming the spoon for making someone fat.
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Or for less money, you can get your own tuning equipment and use the Delco ECM, that has many more features than the common MS2, including on board diagnostics, VSS based parameters (Which I feel is far more important than the MS community believes), decades of proven reliability and available at any auto wreckers, IF you ever a problem. I've only ever had one ECM fail, and that was due to water getting dripped on it, which is no fault of the ECM.
You can even get equipment that will provide real time tuning with the Delco ECM, for less than most MS systems cost. This is what I use in my own car. -
Worn out tie rods dont give you hundreds of pounds of lift on the front end alone. Stock, these vehicles are literally losing around 10% of their weight off their wheels at at these speeds. Most of it over the front wheels. Being well maintained has little to do with it.
I agree.
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Missing video link?
Of course 280Z's had hood vents, I'd be surprised if they were for anything other than styling though.
They were to remove heat from the engine bay, there was likely a side effect of venting the air pressure under the hood too.
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I had the same thought about the thief being one of the "potential buyers" or connected with the thief.
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2.8, 4.3, 5.0, 5.7, 7.4L all have the same foot print and mounting flanges. There are differences in the throttle linkage, and the IAC valves, and bores. 2.8 is the smallest, 4.3 and 5.0 are the same bore and then the 7.4L is the largest. Injectors were different for each engine size and even some applications. 9C1 (Cop car package) had larger injectors than the 5.7L non 9C1 cars had. Later 7.4L uses smaller injectors but higher fuel pressure than early 7.4 TBIs.
Many 2.8L V6 owners swap to the 4.3/5.7 (Same size bore) throttle bodies, and retain the 2.8 injectors. Most people claim an improvement and the intake is not the weak point of those engines, it is the heads that are really restrictive, so take that into consideration.
I was considering something similar with my car, back when it was carb'd, but using the 2.0L/Crossfire throttle bodies since they are single bbl, and would be decent for the SU carb intakes, but decided to just go MPFI instead
I wouldn't use the stock 2.8L carb, they are junk, well, finiky anyway, and everyone who swaps to a different carb as a replacement claims a marked improvement in every aspect. I can believe I had a carb on my 2.8 Jimmy for a while and it wasn't a carb I would want to keep for long. I went injected on that vehicle too. -
The mounts that are on the car side changed in either '72 or '73, IIRC it was '73, otherwise everything bolts up.
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I haven't used that particular dizzy, but when I went from a modified 280Z dizzy to a DIS system with no other changes the difference was night and day. Smoother idle, smoother acceleration, just overall improvement in running with the DIS over the dizzy.
I am running a Delco (GM) ECM, that was originally set-up for dizzy (The code I'm running was never used with DIS from the factory), a few changes to the code parameters and a proper mechanical set-up using a custom trigger wheel and a coil pack that would be found on many GM V6 cars, like the Cavalier '96+ Malibu, etc, and the DIS was a vast improvement.
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I guess no one has thought about pulling the rail and having it sit on some cardboard to find a leaky injector?
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Now, what everyone is going to tell you is just get a 15/16 master from a '79-'81 ZX. But as those are nearly impossible to find now for cheap, you have a few options.
Not true.
I just bought a brand new re-man'd 15/16" early 280ZX brake master cylinder a couple weeks ago. It is from Cardone. Regular Canadian retail on it is $80 (or so) I paid a little less due to club discounts where I bought it. I just installed it last night, and it is correct for a bolt on to the S30.
The Z31 brake booster will not be a bolt on to a '73 and later S30, the studs that pass through the firewall are a different pattern. IIRC the spots where the holes would need to be drilled for the Z31 master interfere with the bracing and such of the pedal box in that area. It MAY fit on an earlier S30 a little easier because the booster mounting pattern was a little closer to the Z31 pattern IIRC.
Another option would be to make an adapter. I was sent a link a while ago to an adapter offered by a Japanese supplier that allowed for an S13 booster to be mounted in an (later) S30. It was a two part plate that one plate bolted to the booster, then another plate bolted to this one that had studs for the proper pattern. It looked like a good idea, but was about $380 (using the at the time conversion for Yen to CDN dollars), plus shipping, brokerage, etc.
I've honestly never felt that the booster was a weak point in these cars. I have used the stock S30 booster for the Toyo/280ZX brake swap, along with the 7/8" master. I have also used the stock booster and master with my Z31/280ZX brake set-up. I also used a stock, slightly modified (one stud cut shorter) stock S30 booster with a Z31 master cylinder, but had issues with how the brakes actually applied. It acted like the reaction disc was missing, but it wasn't and didn't really have a lot of time to figure out why. It may have been an issue with the master itself. I now have the 15/16" master and it seems to be working well. I've only drove it maybe a mile with some test braking since I put it on last night, but pedal feel is better than when I had the 7/8" master.
I'm pretty sure the Z32 master is either 1" or 17/16" in size, not 15/16". The Z31 master I tested was a 1" master as well.
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I've never owned a car that DIDN'T bleed down fuel pressure. Yes, I've installed fuel pressure gauges on many of my cars for monitoring and/or diagnostic purposes.
Most cars have bled off in less than an hour. I had one that would take a couple hours. Never a problem starting.
I find it absolutely hilarious that people cite this as a reason for long crank times.
Next time, watch how fast the fuel pressure comes up when the key is turned on and fuel primed (most cars work this way), it's quicker than you can get the key all the way to start, usually.
Some EFI systems have it programmed into to wait for a certain number of ignition pulses before enabling fuel, in order to assure there is oil pressure. I don't know if the Nissan system is designed this way, I doubt, since it's pretty archaic, but it is something that is a part of some systems.
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What?
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I bought some from a local fastener supply store, when I did my DIS set-up.
Wheel fitment-mock up
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Interesting.
Would like to see how this all goes.