Six_Shooter
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Posts posted by Six_Shooter
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Can I run Batt on the alternator directly to the battery + terminal? Or would that cause issues
That's how I usually do my alternator upgrades.
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It sounds like you need to take it to an automotive electrical repair specialist, or a Datsun specialist that likes to do electrical repairs. I don't even know where I'd start with this one in giving advice over the internet. I know where I'd start if I was doing the work, and I do enjoy electrical, it's what I specialize in.
You have some odd functionality going on, the voltage gauge should work any time the key is on.
I think your en devour to bypass a short you may connected a couple circuits together that cause the lights to only work while the engine is running, but I can't even think about how to re-create this.
If the battery voltage and charge voltage at the alternator charge post don't match, you need to find to why. This is essentially a direct connection, though there may be a fuseable link for this on your car, and this along with corrosion might be causing a loss of voltage.
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Small relevance to this, in regards to rust on an S30.
I live in Southern Ontario Canada, where salt is used during the winter, and completely eats cars away.So finding a solid S30 around here was nearly impossible. I looked at a few and have even looked since I bought my car, and then bought a couple as parts cars... Anyway. I decided that I would need one from the states, expecting it to be southern states, it turned out that my car came from Richland Washington, which IIRC is not far from you. While my car was not rust free, it was a very solid car, with only a couple very small holes in the floor, structurally. The worst of it is on the rear roof and hatch of the car, where there was a Landau top installed probably when new. If it wasn't for this the car would look much better. I plan to replace these panels and have donor panels to go in, just haven't got around to doing it yet.
My reason for posting this is that you may be able to find something solid or fairly solid in your area, because IIRC sand is used in Washington, which has less effect on metals than salt does.
When I was looking for a project car, similar to you FC RX-7s were also on my list, but had a harder time finding solid cars to start with,even when searching online. I probably didn't try real hard though because the 240Z was just so much sexier.
I haven't regretted my choice one bit.
Other cars that were on my list:
510
H-body Sunbird ('70's RWD)
Vega
Fiero
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Bump. Is there there a definitive answer for this? Is it really just for contributing members? If not it would be a nice feature in general to have working.
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Regardless of engine size, it takes the same amount of power to maintain the same vehicle (weight unchanged) at the same speed, so the drivetrain will not experience anymore strain after the L28 goes in than before. What I'm saying is the reliability will be the same.
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In my experience it makes both run hotter.
Same here, and that goes for several cars.
In my 240 I was able to drop average engine running temp by 10 degrees by advancing the timing in the common load areas. This just showed that the timing was far too retarded to start with.
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Ok, that sounds like the procedure, but at 0 degrees, the timing is retarded from where it should be, if the spec is 5 degrees, not advanced.
If you're saying that turning the dizzy as far as it will go will only get you to 0 degrees and not 5 degrees BTDC, then you need to find out what is not correctly installed, be it the oil pump drive or the placement of the plug wires on the dizzy cap. -
Test as stated in the above but also check at the alternator output/charging wire too .
I was just going to suggest this.
It's possible that the alternator is fine, but the connection between it and the battery is not.
I don't recall if the '77 280Z has a fuse-able link for the alternator or not, if it does, this is likely where the problem is.
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Why?
Because some of us plan to abuse our cars in ways that would break down conventional lubricants before any sessions are over.
The benefits are not usually seen as an instantaneous result, but is a way to prevent the lubrication break down and delay any effects of such for a longer period.Pulling heat away from components will help them survive longer than letting the heat soak into them.
Done right the cooling systems could actually be run after the car is shut down to continue to cool the components, or as some people use them as, pre-heaters, to get the components up to temp before abusing them.
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You didn't really specify. Never heard of 5 speed Datsun automatics but it looks like other countries might have had them. Good luck.
I read it the same as you, wanting to bolt the original 3 speed Datsun trans to the L28.
5 speed automatics are not very common and I only recall them being available in the last few years, from a few domestic manufacturers, though admittedly I don't like automatics, so I don't keep up on all automatic trans offerings. If you do find something in the 5 speed variety, you will need to make an adapter plate and flexplate spacer, which may or may not be too difficult. I'm in the process of making an adapter plate to retain my 5 speed manual Nissan trans and mate it to a GM engine I am swapping in. One portion of the adapter plate is proving to be difficult to finalize how I will attach everything and retain dowel pins.
Any reason you want to swap out the 3 speed?
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The user's manual says 5 Deg, but i have advanced the timing as far as the distributor will turn.
Where you have it set would be retarded. The 5 degree spec is an advanced or BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) measurement. Setting the base timing to 0 degrees is 5 degrees retarded from the spec.Also when you set it, did you disconnect the vacuum advance, if you did not then the actual base timing is even more retarded than that.
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No, like batch fire ECM from an MPFI engine.
The (GM) TBI ECMs were all bank to bank essentially. They fired each injector alternately.
SFI or Batch, the difference is a few wires and a sensor. I don't see any real benefit going SFI, so I haven't, at least not yet. Maybe once I start running extremely large injectors where idle quality becomes an issue I might consider it.
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There's no reason it won't work, since the ECM doesn't care what hardware (the engine) is attached to it. All it cares about is seeing signals it likes.
FWIW, I've been running a GM (Delco) ECM on my turbo L28 for about 5 years. -
The trans will not directly mate to a later Nissan V6.
I would look into the L28E or a turbo L-series swap, doesn't HAVE to be an L28ET specifically. You could turbocharge your current L24, if you wish.FWIW, I'm running an Turbo L28 in my 240Z, it's an N/A L28 that came with the car, I added the turbo and EFI after I got it. I ran it for a while with the stock R180 and universal axles, without a problem. I had performed the Toyota front brake and 280ZX rear disc swap before I started driving my car, but I'm sure the stock brakes would have been fine for daily driving and the occasional spirited romp. I have since swapped to an R200 and CV axles. I have also swapped to different brakes since then, only because I wanted to, not because I needed to. I do like when the entire package is upgraded though to reflect the ability to whoa that added go.
I'll be swapping to a late model V6 (not a Nissan though), but I'm going to keep the Nissan trans, since it's so much better than the T5 that will bolt to my engine of choice. I will be doing this one of two ways, either an adapter plate (most likely) or a custom bellhousing (also a strong possibility). I only mention this as it may not be something you thought of, using adapters I mean to mate an engine and trans that were not meant to ever go together.
However, it is usually easier to have a custom driveshaft made to use a different drivetrain that what is original. So if you use the matching trans to the engine you wish to use, a custom driveshaft could then be made to retain the stock rear end.
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Ahh okay that would kinda make sense. I have supported in the past, but not recently - I wonder how often you need to "re-up"?
I "like" the notion of the like system - it would seem to be a good way to add support to someone's post without muddying the thread up with a bunch of "me too" answers. Not sure why you would want a quota on that, unless we are talking about limiting to one "like" per person per post in a thread (like FB)...
I also have had the same issue, and also do not see a reason/need to limit.
I would have simply liked both of these posts, if I could have...
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The reaction disc is likely in the booster, They can fall out of the hole they reside in and bounce around the booster.
I recently had to replace my booster as well. The replacement booster (used) had the reaction disc floating around the booster.
I tried for several minutes to bounce it around and hoped it would get to a spot near the place it should be to manipulate it it into position. Best I could do was get it to fly past the small opening.
I ended up stuff a rag into the booster, on one side and was then able to get the reaction disc to then land on the rag and retrieve it.
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Your problem doesn't sound fuel tank related, or at least not directly.
I have a '73 that I have turbo'd and injected using the stock fuel tank.I am not using the stock feed though, well at least not as a feed, I have my return plumbed to the original feed line.
I instead removed the drain plug and threaded it for 3/8" NPT and installed a 90* fitting there to feed my Walbro fuel pump. The only time I have an "issue" is when the tank is REALLY low (as in needle touching the empty mark) and only when driving spirited, I notice that my engine runs a tad leaner than when I have more fuel, but still has not missed a beat. I am not using a surge tank either.
It's not an ideal set-up but it seems to work flawlessly, contrary to what people will tell you.
For your problem you need to find out why the engine ceases to run, is it fuel related? Is it spark related? Is there an obstruction in the exhaust? Once you identify what goes away when the car stops running then you can look at that system to find the problem. -
I've never been able to like anything.... er any post that is.
I was under the impression that only supporting members could use that feature.-
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xenons30.com has the FSM.
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I can't comment on how well this may or may not work, but I have to say that's an interesting idea. Not something I would have thought of. I have thought about going the conventional way using an electric pump and stand alone heat exchanger.
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I use Win 7 64 bit and Chrome, zero issues with copying or pasting.
I use ctrl+v to paste though.
Chrome >> IE.
Since switching to Chrome years ago, I have had a lot less browsing issues than I had with I.E. or even when I HAVE to use I.E. (some websites I use the specific features of require I.E. to be used :facepalm: ). Give it a try.
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I have a '73 and was not able to get the strut assembly to swing down enough to clear the fender lips.
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Someone used to make a adhesive wire that could be fitted to the windshield or the rear window. don't know if it is still available or not. How about a sharks fin like many of the german cars use
That's one of the styles I was looking at, since I think the shape might flow with the S30. There's another one that is a little taller and more like a fin, that I don't think would look right.
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Is that not how most people replace springs in these cars?
I have yet to pull my spindle pins in my car and have had my suspension out a few times for different reasons, though I have one modification in mind that would necessitate it.
1973 240z build
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Hard to tell what it looks like from the filtered pictures...
Is that still a thing, to use the filters to obscure what you're trying to show?