ozconnection

Hey Tony D, you're a bit too slow.........I just bought this on Ebay! A good sandblasting to freshen it up should have it looking like new in no time. Then perhaps build an aluminium plate to adapt the Holley (similar in layout to the Clifford manifold) and I can't wait to try it out. I'm also considering cutting a slot down the middle on the carb mounting surface so I can slide an aluminium plate to create a dual plane setup, like the Arizona manifold. All stealth and reversable, of course. I wonder how large the port runners are? I'll have to write back on this when the manifold arrives here. Until then........

You can use foam rubber in the holes, its easy to put in, take out, buy, cut to size, clean, reuse and best of all stop crap like iron filings going into oil galleries and such. Instead of using compressed air guys to blow everything everywhere, why not try a small, stiff bristle brush and a strong vacuum cleaner or 'hoover' as they're called in some parts to clean everything up? Better to suck than to blow in this situation methinks!

Dunno 'bout this one. Think about an ordinary farm tractor. Super low gearing, should make the wheels spin easily.....nope, it doesn't. Why? You need revs and power to effectively spin the hoops, something the stock tractor engine lacks. Torque multiplication by gearing isn't the answer IMO.

That is absolutely correct Thrustnut. I would be taking this approach if this were my engine I was putting together You can simply change the plug wires around on the dizzy cap, so that timing is effectively 180 degrees about face. But this is all screwy....just put it together right as you and I suggested too and remove all confusion. Simple. And I'm sure Howlermonkey isnt suggesting dropping the dizzy spindle and clocking it 180 or dismembering the dizzy innards to clock that 180, are you? Don't go there man! Cheers.

I think you'll be right with this...have you done this before? On an L series? Verify that crank is at top dead centre on number one cylinder and leave it there. Undo camshaft bolt, remove sprocket from camshaft.(if your engine is still exposed like in the pictures, its ok to proceed with this step. If not, you'll need to chock your chain so it doesn't fall down into the sump and your chain tensioner doesn't pop out of place.) Loosen all of your rocker arms at the pedistals (sp) and remove rocker arms...keep them in order, don't mix 'em up. rotate cam so dowel pin is at the top. put rocker arms back in put sprocket onto/under chain and pull that up to take up the slack on the chain and try and align the pin to the cam sprocket. Try number one hole if a new chain, number two or three if old. You may need to ride the chain over the sprocket a few links to get this right. You may also need to rock your cam back and forth a few degrees too to make everything line up. There is a hex boss on the cam halfway along its length for this purpose. A shifting spanner is pefect for this. If you're running out of hands, you can put the cam bolt back in to support the cam sprocket whilst your working the cam dowel into the sprocket. Just don't attempt to 'push' the sprocket onto the cam this way, you'll bend/break things for sure. Then check the Vee on the sprocket line up with the notch/dash on the trust plate. Vee to the right of the notch...cam is advanced. Vee straight on the notch 0 deg. advanced. That's as simple as I can make it man......good luck

Most of you reading this thread are probably wondering by now if I have installed the Y70 head onto my L28 bottom end yet. The answer is 'No, not yet' I've purchased a MS2 setup from a guy who advertised his L28 setup on an Australian forum. I've another friend who's doing some minor alterations to the loom for me ATM. The rest is ready and I'm going to get moving on that project shortly. What's been consuming my time is tuning my current setup. For the head comparison to be fair, I needed to do this. The routine I'm using is a combination between the G Tech Pro unit and the Innovate WBO2 sensor and Logworks....data logging. I've had this WBO2 sensor for a few years but never bothered to use the logging facility. Access to a laptop was kinda the issue, but it was more a lack of understanding of the virtues of this kind of tuning that was more the point. 'Come on, we're working with everything old skool here, why on earth would I want/need to tune with a computer' was my attitude. Well, wasn't I a silly Billy then. As some sort of 'proof' that things have been moving in the right direction, with nothing more than 'tuning' the carb based on the information that has been recorded, I've dropped my 0-100km/h (0-62 mph) times from 11.43 seconds to a (today's) best of 9.93 seconds. SS 400m was 18.2 seconds, now it's 17.26 seconds and terminal speed was 126.7 kmh now its 133.8 kmh. Like I said, just carb tuning here, based on the printed out data I was able to obtain from my WBO2 sensor et al. Have I finished? No, not yet...this IS fun! How much more I can get out of the engine in its current combo is the million dollar question. There's a limit, obviously, but how close am I?...well closer than before I started all this, that's for sure. Once I'm statisfied that I have the carb tuned well, I might opt to put the MS2 on, then the Y70 head. What really comes next?...I'm not too sure. The original direction was a comparison between the two heads, the N42 and Y70, not between carb and EFI. I'll wait to see what some of you might think about the direction I should take. One thing is for sure, I'll never take for granted the ability of modern computers to help with the tuning of 'old skool' ever again....it's really opened my eyes.... Cheers.

Well said Tony. I would bundle the Y70 and 05L into the same basket, the 05L for the purists who don't like round ports with liners. And aren't I lucky, I have both!!

Pete, you're correct, the cam IS 180 degrees outa position. Easy fix, then when the cam is in the correct orientation, your little vee on the cam sprocket will line up with the notch on the thrust plate. That bit you'll find in your FSM. I don't regularly count chain links. So long as your crank and cam are in the correct orientations, then your close. Factory cams can be adjusted using the factory notches, etc whereas aftermarket cams need to be properly dialed in using the cam card specs supplied with the cam. What do you have? If you need info on how to dial in an aftermarket grind, then you better search. There are some excellent threads on this topic, written by some really knowledgeable guys who have written it all in plain English. Good luck, Cheers.

After I put the closed chamber E88 on my L28, I had discovered a machining error that forced me to take the head back off the engine. I had a mate who desperately wanted one, and for the right price, I sold it to him. Look, the E88 isn't a bad head, and if I can find one, I'd probably get it. I did happen to dyno the N42 head and then the E88 head straight after the swap. There were increases in performance at the top end, from about 3.5K onwards, but it wasn't 'OMFG' type stuff. Considering the money I had spent on the head to get it to that stage, it was a little disappointing. Inlet valves were L28, compression wasn't up by too much and the cam was aftermarket but not huge. Had I put a bigger cam it might have made more power but that statement is hollow because I would've had to have tested the old N42 head with the bigger cam to see the actual difference between the two. The 05L head might be good to try on an L24, or an L24 with an L20 crank in it to make a bit of a 'spinner' if you know what I mean. Good rod/stroke ratio, bumped up compression, small port heads for good gas velocity and a light valve train (small valves) and the right cam make 8K rpm childs play! Run L24 dished pistons and add a turbo for even more fun!! Cheers!

The late model Aussie E88 head was found on the R30 Skyline L24E engine. I had one of these on my L28 for a while. The chambers are very similar to the Y70 head but larger. The intakes are 42mm's and the exhausts are 35mm's. The intake ports measure 34mm's in diameter. The E88 head is very similar to the Aussie N47 L24E head. The N47 and Y70 heads have round exhaust ports with liners. The O5L head ( I have one of these too) has 28mm intake ports, smaller than the 30mm Y70 ones. The O5L has square exhaust ports.

Is the front cover on the engine? If your engine is being rebuilt, you still have the option of starting this exercise over. Essential is to have your engine at TDC on number one cylinder. As you're already aware, move the cam around via the boss in the middle of the cam to get the cam dowel to fit into the cam sprocket. Never move the crank until the cam drive setup is complete/together. It's not hard to do...but ya gotta do it right to be safe and comfortable with your rebuild. Nothing worse than asking yourself....'Did I do that bit right?' just before you fire it up for the first time! Your not stuck...just do it again. Cheers and good luck.

Good idea, however, isn't that piece of equipment designed to fit the L head where the inspection plate goes? Removing the L head doesn't necessarily preclude its use, only that further adaption/fabrication will be required to fit that 'expensive' Kameari setup. Could another 'sprocket/cog/tensioner thingy be found from a more local source, a domestic late model twin cam engine perhaps? Wouldn't that be cheaper initially and possibly easier to adapt than the Kameari item? Fantastic idea using the Merc head.....I have a couple of them local to me that I could get....lets see how this all pans out. So far so good! Keep it up! Cheers!

To give you specific recommendations would require significantly more information on your engine/drivetrain combo than what you've provided us with. What cam, intake manifold, compression and exhaust are you running? Have you made any attempt to stove off heat soak? What size/type of air filter are you using?. What grade of fuel are you using? How hot is your ignition system? Manual or auto transmission? Get the idea? We would love to help you but you need to start the ball rolling by giving us this sort of detail. Without it, our recommendations are pretty much useless. Is your rich condition down low at cruise or WOT?......please be specific. Why has it been needed to drop primary jet sizes so low? Is there something else like bowl fuel levels that are too high requiring you to lean the jets so much? It 'sounds' like something isn't quite right there to begin with but without the extra info, I'm only guessing ATM. Cheers.

Yes Tony I know, I've looked for them but never found one to buy. They're old now, do they still make them?

I'm like Tony and I like the L20A ET engine. I have two of them too. Great for revs, short stroke, great rod to stroke ratio and small valves in the head, all permit these engines to rev HARD! Porting the head isn't something that's needed for daily street work. Putting on a head with big ports is akin to putting in a big cam. Great top end but off boost, low speed torque just sucks! I'd put in a bigger cam before I'd make the ports bigger IMO. Just don't go stupid in the bigger camshaft department. This what your head should look like after some basic cleaning up. It's an L20A ET Y70 head. Cheers.

There is quite a bit of info on these setups here on HybridZ. You gotta search harder The Holley 4 barrel does a fairly good job of supplying mixtures to the L28. I've been playing around with these 'things' for years. The thing to understand is that these carbs weren't generally meant for our engines. It means that the fuel curves are not ideal. That wouldn't be so much of a problem if you had a Weber as every fuel/air circuit is adjustable. The general 'run of the mill' Holley 4150/4160 square bore carbs are limited in which fuel circuits can be tuned. Having said that, you can still get these things to run fairly well. Primary fuel system running is balanced by main jets and power valve channel restrictions. Jets are changeable but the metering block PVCR isn't. Sure the Power valve can be changed, determining when the extra fuel is added, but not how much extra fuel is added. The first mod to correct your problem with overfueling is to reduce the size of the main jets and have your metering block drilled to accept replaceable jets like those used in the idle feed restrictions (found in those HP and specialty /more expensive carbs). After reducing the main jets to get the thing to run leaner than what you have, play with the PVCR until you have the correct A/F Ratio at wide open throttle. A carb shop or machinist can do this for you. Buy the jets for this from ebay or summit etc. Some are blank so you can drill them to your own size. Sub one mm drill bits can be bought from ebay etc if you want to do this yourself. The effect here is to realise that primary fuel is delivered through these two 'main' metering circuits and to get the fuel delivery close for our engines, this kind of work is often necessary. I could go on and on...but that's enough to answer your question I think.

33.48.946N 117 14.351W still lands me in rice fields WTF! 22 42.388 113 38.987 gets me to what looks like an airstrip leading into the drink, I think I can make out a car near the entrance...IS that YOU Tony? 10 44.352 106 56.904 gives me some residential area near Long Thanh in Vietnam!? Lovely! Now check out 33 45'54.58S 150 55'34.05E, that's the Cedric in the driveway!

My Google doesn't resolve the 'rice fields' in the middle of China somewhere between Zhengzhou and Shanghai too well at all. Mate, come to Australia...and the copper that pulls you over can at least tell you you're going waaaaaay too fast....in English!

I ran the car with the G Tech again today on the freeway near my place. The days were almost identical, overcast, little to no wind and about 15 degrees celcius. I made 9 runs in total, with various changes to just the Holley and manifold spacer. The spacer is a phenolic unit, both being 1 inch tall, the difference is one is a 4 hole and the other is open. This effectively changes the manifold from a dual plane to a single plane, respectively. The carb received some tuning via my WB02 meter when the changeover was made between the spacers. The change alters the way the manifold pulses effect the airflow through the carby, hence the recalibrations. No other changes were made to my engine tune other than the above mentioned. The best times I got the other day were (with an extra 75kg person) open spacer full throttle; 0-100 km/h = 11.4 seconds 0-400 metres = 18.2 seconds at 126.7 km/h Today (Best overall run 4 hole spacer) full throttle; 0-100 km/h = 10.2 seconds 0-400 metres = 17.4 seconds at 132.0 km/h The best times with the open spacer were full throttle; 0-100km/h = 10.3 seconds 0-400 metres = 17.6 seconds at 132.5 km/h I tried the car running on detent, the best results were (open spacer) 0-100 km/h = 11.7 seconds 0-400 metres = 18.2 seconds at 129.1 km/h Allowing for the fact that on the first day I was carrying another person, there are performance improvements here. Detent was surprising, almost matching the full throttle and revs run. I should've tried holding the gears to 6000rpm just for fun to see the trend. Would I be quicker and/or faster? Maybe next weekend I might give that a go. The G-Tech was resonsible for measuring the results, better than a hand held stopwatch and some markers on the road to indicate 400 metres in my opinion. A great little tool and what a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Great idea.....Tony D and a few others should write down things like that, 'short story' style and it could be posted here on Hybridz as a kind of information archive or something? If anyone wanted to build a particular style of engine or parts combination it could be a good place to start ones research! I'd personally love to read about the evolution of a turbo gasoline L28 to 21 pounds of boost at 1700rpm!! Hell yeah!! Nice one Nigel. Tony?

Oh yes, reminds me of the time I ran the L20A turbo on my L28...... A mate of mine is going to be running one of those smallish Toyota superchargers on his L26 soon....different method but a similar outcome. I'll let him chime in if he chooses.... That would be icing on the cake. Torque monster!

A mate of mine just finished and registered an R31 with a VQ30DET. It's a weapon. Your car is even lighter...... Cheers.

(sorry i've been out of contact, heaps busy and in exams atm:evil: catch up soon) No worries, look forward to it!

Yeah, this form of vehicle assessment may be considered as crap. The same can be applied to desktop computer simulation programs too if we're looking for a debate. I do however, find some usefulness with both of these tools. I use them to compare and verify changes. Now, at least fairly quickly, cheaply and convieniently I can go out and check out what the computer program has suggested has given me 20 HP on the road nearby with my other 'dodgy' tool, the accelerometer. Scientific, yes, qualitative, yes, to a degree. If you choose not to use these 'tools' then what other options do you have? Seat of your pants maybe? Hell, we can all feel that can't we? But how useful is that in conveying to the next bloke how quicker/faster the car is now?? Not much. (read quantative). "Mate she feels heaps quicker...." Enough said.