PhilbertZ

I went through this adventure last year too - what a fun way to find out how it works..... I used heat shrink tubing to seal it up. I replaced my injector wire pigtails/boots with BOSCH OEM new parts this summer, and the connector worked for several other components in the engine bay, but not the TPS - I'd love to know that part number so I can score the connector/booth combo and take care of this issue once and for all! Subscribed!

He has Balls of Steel - literally. Love Bollywood!

Wow - that's terrible about smog troubles - I know what you mean, I had to go three times this summer and am also labled "gross pollutor" as a result. I also had to pay a fine because I took so long to fix it, I missed the registration deadline! In my quest to fix, I think I did things you already did: - New O2 sensor - New plugs - New Wires - New Cap/rotor - Valve adjustment - Timing - Tested injectors using ohmmeter - replaced eletrcical connectors on pretty much entire EFI system - New Air Filter - Did every FSM EFI/ECU test in the book with Ohmmeter - Replaced CAT ($260 CARB legal) - that did it at the end - passed with flying colors So, it looks like you've done way more than I did and are stlll having issues. The only thing I can think of now is maybe your timing chain slipped and wasn't aligned correctly and is leading to a rich mixture (the ECU may think it's right but the mixture is off due to the chain being off?). That's all I can honestly think of - sorry I can't help more. Did you actually remove the cover AND chain, and align to factory spec? Good luck - hope it gets sorted soon!

I bought some sun visor holder clips from him "NOS" last year on ebay and they were OK - $10 I think and "new" in Nissan plastic bag. Shipping I don't remember exactly but it seemed kind of steep for such a small part...

it's been my wallpaper since yesterday More pics!!!

thanks for the detailed response - that's not what I was hoping for but good to know. I'll have to do some searching to find the best way to remove the lower chrome trim and take a peak without damaging it

I'm going to go with 599 GTB or 612 Scag. Our CEO owned both and that looks familiar from my window peeping....

Thanks - that's too bad. Do you mean just the window trim, or the window itself has to come out too?

those videos on their ebay site are great!

somewhat related qustion.... My cowl is showing some small bubbling rust where it meets the chrome around the windshield - right in the middle of the cowl. Can that piece be easily removed/treated (by removing wipers and plastic vents first)?

amazing

Looks like this one IS for sale for $35,000: http://kellisonpage3.homestead.com/forsale.html The phone number is SF Bay area - East Bay. Martin is selling his beautiful J-6 it has a 327 Chevy and a 4 Speed it is titled as a 1958 Corvette the frame and gauges are 1958 Corvette asking $35,000 call him at 925-550-8788 or Email honeydolist4u@yahoo.com

get your model-specific FSM right here and bookmark this site: http://xenons130.com/reference.html If you don't have an Ohmmeter, get one and use the ECU tests in the FSM to isolate the problem. it will take time but it will get you closer to the real problem faster than a anything else. Reading this, I have a strong suspicion it's something to do with the battery cables. My 87 Toyota Truck had this issue where it just went "Click" when I tuned it over - no crank and no spark... Turned out my battery cables were really in bad shape and arcing inside the terminal connector! Check yours out, make sure they are clean (be safe - read up on batteries before touching those wires so you don't hurt yourself or your car.. Good luck

wow - glad this got revived - great story and I can't wait to hear the year-later (hopefully happy) update!

I almost fell out of my chair when I saw this!!

When I was troubleshooting my L28E due to failed smog, I blocked off the fuel hose to the cold start valve (in case the Thermotime switch ever fails). The TT switch passed my FSM diagnostic tests, but in CA, I have no need for it, and don't want to risk dumping unneeded extra fuel into the engine. To block it, I disconnected it from the intake manifold, disconnected the sensor and rubber tube from the fuel rail, and inserted a bolt (sans head - hacksawed that off), so it plugged the gas line. Then button it up and you're set - looks "stock" to emissions inspectors Thanks BRAAP for that idea! Good luck - recommend you do the FSM diagnostics - just need a multimeter and a few hours or time - you can eliminate things this way.

I don't think these cars have the safeguard that modern clutch cars do (not starting unless clutch depressed). My 1980 ZX starts without using the clutch. My 1979 corolla in high school did too. Just make sure it's in neutral! Are you saying it used to not start (even in neutral) when the clutch was out?

Could not agree more. Just went through SMOG failure in CA with my 1980 ZX and it was painful ($$). I did all the work/tests myself, but had to bring it back twice after failing to finally pass (with flying colors). You don't want to mess with the EFI system if you have to smog it (read: younger than 1975 models). If you want to mess with your Z's engine and live in CA, get something old enough

that's too bad - I'll keep an eye out in the East Bay for you.

Thank you. It's never come on and likely won't in my climate, but wanted to be sure it was properly taken care of just in case...

So I finally removed the rest of the cooling fan for my fuel injectors/fuel rail (the one that everyone removes who does not live in a super hot climate because it never gets used and takes up a lot of room in the engine bay...). There were 2 wires going into the motor on the fan (+/-), and a third ground (?) wire coming out of the same harness, bolted to the head. after I removed the fan, I bolted the ground (?) wire back to the head where it was, and the other 2 wires I wrapped in electrical tape. Should I have done anything different with these 2 wires? They were male/female wires, both wrapped in weather proofing clear rubber connectors before I unplugged them. Just checking - I've never had this fan come on and it probably never will get the electrical signal from the ECU, but I want to make sure I didn't wire incorrectly.... thanks!

I vote that it's a Hyundai Tiburon with non factory wing.

Hey guys - update here.... He figured out that the switch was on the high beams (when they were not working). When he switched them to low, the headlights worked. So....now: 1) His low beams work. 2) His high beams do not work 3) His dash lights do not work when headlights are on everything pointing toward switch on the steering column, or elsewhere, with this data?

i don't know if it's just me or my PC, but I cannot see any pics Just red "x" on white boxes.....sniff. Are these posted anywhere else? I'd love to see them!

My work is blocking that website (car porn??), but you need a 14mm and 17mm wrench and the thinner the better. Last time I disconnected my coil plug and buymped the starter with the ignition a few times to get the lobes aligned....you can also put car in 5th gear and push the car forward if you have room, but that's a PITA....I used a borrowed wrench on the crank gear before once but forgot the size (27mm?). Good luck - take photos and post with notes for other n00bs