PhilbertZ

Guys - reviving this old thread I finally did my poly bushing install (search my name here and you'll find the post with all the photos). I still have the motor mounts and need to install (next project). Question: For a 280ZX NA, do I need to use a cherry picker or can I use a jack with blocks of wood on the oil pan, for instance? Will I need to undo the transmission mounts to get the angle on the engine? If anyone's done this and has a quick bullet point guide they wouldn't mind typing up for me, I'd really, really appreciate it. Thanks everyone! Phil

Junk yard? Try Blackdragonauto.com too. Or maybe summit racing?

I think i may have used a heat gun (at LOOOOOOW setting) on mine too - really make sure it's dry. and make sure your rubber boots are in good shape too so it doesn't happen again.

it's the TPS - I did the exact same thing. compressed air and hair dryer did the trick. do a search on my name and "TPS" and you'll find the thread, with an image of the TPS' location, if you don't already know what/where it is. I ended up heat shrinking all my electrical connections in the bay after this incident, since the rbeer was cracking to bits and let the water in.

I think it's 2-4 times per year - I know it's not monthly it's not that bad - just when you look at it from a per issue cost it gets up there compared with other monthly mags.

Guys - I'm growing a little concerned about the tension rod issue. I've seen multiple posts here and there saying that poly bushings, due to their lack of flex, usually lead to tension rod failure. I've seen suggested solutions that span to using rubber on one side, to drilling holes (as suggested here). I guess I'm just wary of doing the rubber swap (and possibly degrading the stiffness/integrity of the tension rod setup). Is it necessary? Will it lead to premature bushing failure because of the different levels of flexibility between the rubber and poly? For those who HAVE experienced the TR failure, under what conditions did it happen? Normal road driving? Potholes? autocross? Were your frames in good condition; did anything else lead to the failure do you think? I could be paranoid, but i want to do the right thing. I drive this car in a spirited manner sometimes, and have long term plans of possibly autoX - I want to future proof the suspension so that it stays robust and responsive. Am a paranoid about using the rubber bushings? I'd really like to hear from those who have: 1) replaced with 1/2 rubber and 1/2 poly and let me know how that ended up 2) used poly on front and back side of TRs and how THAT ended up (still have your TR??) Thanks guys - I'm always learning, but would prefer NOT to learn the hard way on this one, given how much effort I've already put into this (and how hard TRs are to find these days...) Phil

I got the same email - I also got one a year ago with the free issue offer. I think if you sign up now for the free issue, it will be the Datsun one - just make sure you cancel if you don't want to subscribe - it's not cheap!

Didn't know they mayde 130 MPH gauges....thought it was 160 and 85 (after 1979)?

lose the fan - you don't live in TX or AZ so you likley won't get hot enough to need it

It really is a night and day difference in handling. If you're painting things, make sure you REALLY clean the parts first. I used a metal etch, which may or may not be legal in CA - it was an old bottle my friend had, and we ran out halfway through the project - had to switch to Acetone, which just didn't do the job (hence my failed paint on the front parts). Phil

Thanks Hughdogz for the links - looks like I'll have to go back and swap in my old rubber on the back (non nut) side, or just get some new rubber and do that - I don't want to lose a tension rod...they are so hard to come across it seems. Thanks guys!

I've heard of those -thanks! I think I'll wait till mine break before I do that though....and I'd like to prevent that as long as possible...if anyone knows the best OEM/Poly combo for the tension rod setup (as I asked above), please let me know.... Also, your sway bar seems mounted very low - why is that? Is your car lowered? I'm new to suspension, so Apologies if it's a well known reason Phil

Thanks - you know I'd read about that before too - tales of TR's snapping (yikes!). If I do swap back one of my OEM bushings....or just get a new OEM set and put on there...do you know which side to put it on (side facing the Tension rod, or side facing the front bumper)? Please say side facing front bumper.....I don't want to take that thing out again

I finished the install this weekend finally - here is my thread post with lots of photos: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149208

I finished the install this weekend finally - here is my thread post with lots of photos: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149208

This past weekend I finally got around to finishing the Prothane polyurethane bushing kit on my 1980 ZX. I was doing it at a friend’s house, so we had to coordinate our schedules in order to make it work – that’s why it was a 2 step process. I’ll cut to the results. The reason I wanted to do this is that my steering response seemed tired, I always heard a creak/groan from the front of the car when I entered dipped driveways, and upon visual inspection, the tension rod and sway bar OEM bushings were cracking to pieces….it was time. After installing this kit, WOW. The steering is extremely tight, the creak/groans are gone from the front, and the car no longer dives when braking. It’s literally night and day. The one thing that may be bad is that the power steering pump seems to be working overtime – I hear it the moment I move the wheel any small fraction (wasn’t there before). This may go away when I get the car re aligned….anyone come across this symptom and is it bad? We did the rears a couple months back. That took an entire day between the two of us. Getting the bushings out and new ones in wasn’t working, so we had to take them to a shop to remove old ones and press in new ones – and it was not cheap. For the fronts, I did more research and we decided to go the hole saw route. Using a drill press and hole saw, cut out as much of the rubber bushing as possible. Then, once the bushing is out and the OEM metal sleeve remains, using a table vise and hack saw, get the blade inside the sleeve to cut some pilot grooves in the sleeves. DO NOT CUT THROUGH THEM as you will damage the inside of the bushing mount and never get the new ones in. What you want to do is make the sleeve as structurally unsound as possible without cutting through to the inside of the control arm. The first one was a pain…the second much easier – here’s how we did it: Using the hacksaw, cut 2 grooves into the sleeve, close together (we used a chisel to remove the sleeve, so if you can separate the 2 grooves by the exact width of the chisel, you’re doing great). Then, cut a third groove (after flipped control arm over in vise…) on the opposite side of the sleeve (think the “peace signâ€, but with the two lower lines very close together). Once those are in, take the control arm out and, with a partner holding it over the top of a large socket (socket larger than the control arm bushing), use a chisel to slowly pound away the small strip created by your first two grooves. Be careful not to damage the inside of the control arm bushing mount. Once the strip peels away, the rest of the sleeve should cave in on itself, or you should be able to do that easily. You may need to use a file to rasp out any nicks left inside the bushing hole – make sure it’s SMOOTH or you’ll never get the new bushings in….. TIP: When putting the front back together, install the tension rod bushing on the side facing the back of the car, along with the tension rod; DON’T install the bushing on the other side – just install the nut so that the rod has some play in it. Attach the ball joint, tension rod, and tie rod to the shock tower mount, and to the control arm. DON’T connect the control arm to the suspension cross member first – connect the outward part of it to the bottom of the shock tower first….and save jamming the control arm into the suspension cross member for LAST…it’s MUCH easier that way. Using an alignment tool and a hammer is the best way to get the control arm lined up and attached to the cross member. Unfortunately, we ran out of metal etch after doing the rear, so the paint didn’t adhere well to the front suspension pieces – too much grease stayed on…. But that was a “nice to have†part of the project – not a need J Also, I painted my wiper arms and BADLY faded rear louvers – what a difference a couple cans of black paint make! If you have any questions about the install of the bushings let me know- I’m learning as a I go so I may not be able to help you - that’s my disclaimer. Enjoy the photos! Phil Rear shock and spring before the work.... Rear control arm with OLD bushings: Rear control arm with NEW bushings and no paint... Rear control arm being painted: Painted/cleaned rear spring and strut...looks like new: Rear strut and spring, painted, cleaned, installed: Rear strut and spring, installed, under load: Rear sway bar painted, installed, under load: Front shock and spring before tear down: Front end torn down: Front control arms unpainted, with bushings removed: Front control arms painted, with new bushings installed: Tension rod and sway bar with new bushings installed: Sway bar and tension rod installed: Front tension rod and sway bar: Front spring and strut painted (not as nice as the rears, sadly....): Newly painted wiper arms: Rear louvers BEFORE the new paint: Rear louvers AFTER the new paint:

that looks great! where did you get the vinyl? what did you use to attach it/stretch it to fit the contours?

I'm pretty sure that in CA, you'd not be able to pass smog with a larger TB installed.

www.blackdragonauto.com is a good, cheap place for parts

that's a gorgeous car...I'll have to keep my eye out for it around the bay area I'd go with the suspension recommendations first - I'm in the middle of a polyurethane bushing install - my OEMs were shot.... Also, your car is newer than 1975, so doing an engine swap might be risky (smog laws). Your engine looks to be in good shape from the pics, and the ZX in its day was pretty fast out the factory door - it's a great package in stock form. that's my 2 cents - keep it as stock as possible - that's my long term aim with mine since i can't do much to my engine due to CA smog rules

you can also get a generic one from Black Dragon for like $15 I think. You have to mount it onto your engine bay, but if you can't get an OEM one, it works....

I'm all ears

I saw it posted here for sale earlier today.

do you have a link to the posting/ad - with pics? you certain there's no rust? posting pics and the link of the ad would help guys here chime in on good/bad things to look for.

$3K??!! wow that's a lot - do you have photos? Is it modded? Turbo?