PhilbertZ

interesting...where was it in the car? that would help

Great news! Glad it all worked out. Sometimes those "bonehead" moments are the best, after all the work you put into an issue (Iat least you know it's not something worse now...and think of how much you learned along the way!) I've had my share of these - and many more to come I'm sure.

Not sure if this is a repost but I was with my family in Hood River/White Salmon area, and we passed by this small house with this primer grey 240 on huge tires in the front yard. There was an S130 in the driveway too... Not sure if the photos do it justice - I ran across the street, took the photos and ran back, while the family and in laws waited in the car. It's basically a 240Z, stripped down, on some 4X4 chassis, with a dual exhaust (like on all the trucks these days...), and enormous tires. Pretty cool project - is this anyone here??

That's what I was referring to (I have the print version for my 1980 ZX as well). Under "Emissions Control" section, page EC-2, there's a chart and all the EGR mentions do not have a checkmark for CA models. On EC-3, there is a diagram for the CALIFORNIAN, CANADIAN, and USA (non-CALIFORNIAN), and the CALIFORNIAN one does not have an EGR in the diagram. These are the things that make me think my car doesn't have an EGR (sold in CA - I got it from the original owner 2 years ago).

Pretty sure the fsm says it's not on CA-made models, which mine is....does anyone know for sure if mine would have it?

I'm not crazy in thiking that my CA model 1980 ZX doesn't have an EGR am I?

I saw a 1980 ZX (same color as mine!) in a SJ yard last year - but that's it....slim pickins here

Thanks! I printed out the EFI bible a couple months ago (whe I failed smog and knew nothing about EFI) and have been using it to learn about and test my EFI system (though some of the tests are different in my 1980ZX specific FSM - so I did the FSM tests too). I'll try that test you recommend - but I'll also try blowing out the ECU plug to see if that's got dsut in it, blocking the circuit

interesting....I'm in the middle of diagnosing my failed smog and running tons of FSM tests using a voltmeter/ohmmeter, and my number 5 injector returns no voltage when tested at the ECU...wonder if this is part of issue - if I need to "blow out" the ECU harness hole there? Or, are there other common reasons that only 1 injector would return a "0" voltage read (I'm running rich, not lean, so I'm thinking this isn't part of my smog problem...)?

I read this entire thread and was thinking this same thing. My friend at work recently acquired his dad's 76 280Z that he'd bought new (dad passed on to him), and the car is in great shape...but it's got many OLD components (rotted bushings, cracking tires, etc). He told me of a rattling at a certain speed (45-55 MPH, and then it's gone at higher OR LOWER speeds). I drive it around for a bit one day and told him that the bushings were shot and his tires likely needed to be replaced soon. He drove it home that day but his front right tire blew at 75 on the freeway and severely dented his fender in front of the door.....but it goes to show that new tires are important, regardless of how much they cost (compared to old tires). this is a second car for him so he's got some time to save up money and do the proper repairs....otherwise it's a great car. ezzzzzzzzzz - glad you were not hurt -that's a scary thought!

That looks really, really good. Is the wiring pretty simple to do? Molex is 3-4 wires if I remember right... Have you thought about orange colors for the turn signals (behind the grill), or red for brakelights? Not sure if these are bright enough for brake lights, but something to think about.... looks awesome either way....I have the "Angel eyes" on my M3 and love the look

I received mine this week and it's a fantastic read! I feel bad...this is the 4th "free trial" issue I've gotten from them this year. I think I just need to man up and get a subscription before Karma gets me back. great all around nissan coverage: 510 V8 conversion, 240s in various street/race prep stages, and an origninal skyline (with an L28) import story. I really like this magazine - very different from Motor Trend, EC, etc....

this seems to be the only 50 state legal one I can buy: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/280ZX/Benchmark/Catalytic_Converter/19801983/DECNIS82511.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain Has anyone had experience with this brand? The price seems a little steep compared with the others but if I have no choice, I have no choice.... I tried Rockauto, Summit and Autoparts warehouse - any other recommendations before I get this (*only*) choice? Thank you

Thanks Jason for chiming in here - appreciate the efforts from all of you guys. I'm going to get a new cat and test the PCV valve as well. Jason - do you mean the Thermotime switch? I'll check with the "EFI Bible" again and my FSM on test procedures for these componentns when I do the cat replacement as well. Possibly dumb question: the OEM cat is 14 inches long, correct? there's no risk of getting the wrong size if it's 14 inches long (I haven't been under to measure)? I have seen lengths of 14 and 15 inches in my searches thus far....

Thanks guys - I love California but they sure are making it hard to own a car these days-geesh! I'll see if I can track down that cat. Howler - I was sitting in the lobby area but it seemed like he did rev it for a period of 15-45 seconds before the test (after it had been idling for several several minutes. I got it REALLY hot before the test, then he idled it for a while, then did the revving, then did the test.

Wow...so I did some searching today at Autoparts warehouse, Rockauto and SummitRacing...everything these guys have is 49 state legal. Want to guess what that elusive 50th state is where I can't ship it/use it??? Does anyone have a tip for where to get a 50 state legal bolt on cat online, for an affordable price?

I'm not sure. that was going to be my next move. I'm not sure what limitations I have right now as far as re testing goes (i.e. how many more "tries" I get with the state). Anyone here know, for CA, what those rules are?). I think I'll do CAT install next, check for vacuum leaks, and use some car cleaner for the intake. Any ideas why the HC number would have gone UP with my "fixes" since that initial test?

he idled it for about 10-15 before the test. I got it really hot before. What gets me is that I failed *worse* the second time after all the adjustments...and the first time I didn't get it nearly as hot before the test...

Thanks Rolling Parts - interesting to note, with that logic - I guess I need to find out which component it is. I did the FSM test with the ECU and my ohmmeter and everything seemed to register 0 resistance, so it seems the harness and ECU are good. I guess I need to go back and test component by component. has anyone in the SF bay area had their car smog repaired and how expensive was it? There's only so much I can do at home, without test equipment - I'd rather, at this point, just get it done and done right one last time.

So, I took it back to the same test only center and it failed - with higher CO readings than before, and a failing HC reading (I passed this last time). Here's what I got today: @ 15 MPH (1645 RPM): 213 PPM HC (210 is max allowed)- my last test, I passed 181 PPM 3.95 % CO (1.35 is max allowed) - my last test I failed with 2.82 % @ 25 MPH (2663 RPM): 4.34 % CO (1.15 is max allowed) - my last test I passed with with 1.14 % Here's what I did in between the 2 tests (in order performed): New plug wires (no new plugs - I installed those a few months ago) New Cap, rotor New O2 sensor Adjusted Throttle Switch (per Rolling Parts' suggestion to spec New cold start valve connector plug and cleaned terminal Checked timing/adjusted valves/checked timing again - all within spec I didn't replace the cat...yet. But I am stymied that my readings got WORSE after the "fixes" - at both speeds. I'm at a real loss at this point. I have a list of local shops that do smog and I guess I'll go that route - but it's going to be a lot of money I know....anyone been down that road? I'm now labeled as a "Gross Pollutor" after this second, failed test.

Thanks - that makes 100% sense (and I did it right, using the FSM method, so...whew!). Going to try and resmog it tomorrow morning. Thanks again everyone here who's chimed in - really appreciate all the good pointers. Phil

Thanks Renatodato - The cat will be my last resort, if I fail again. I was doing my valve adjustment this weekend and am now confused. The FSM says to adjust the first batch of valves when the number 1 cam lobe is pointing straight up, then rotate the camshaft so that the same lobe is pointing straight down to do the other batch of valves. However, for TDC in cylinder 1, wouldn't the timing mark be at "0 degrees" on the crank pulley (I just did my timing so I know when this is lined up)? The reason I ask is, when the lobe is pointing straight up or straight down, the timing mark is NOWHERE near "0" on the crank pulley. Should I be adjusting valves when the lobe up straight up/straight down, or when the timing is at "0" (then do a full rotations, and adjust second set...)? Apologies if this is a noob question, but I don't understand which is the proper position in which to make the adjustment? Thanks

Yeah he's done me a lot of favors - I think he stll feels bad because my truck's drive shaft fell off 2 blocks from coming to see him about a strange noise (after he installed a new transmission for me)....that's another story. It's actually not a turbo - just a normal manifold. Once the O2 sensor was ripped mostly out, it he could fit a socket around the reducer. Getting the destroyed O2 sensor out of the removed reducer was the hard part.... RollingParts: I adjusted the Throttle switch last night - easy job - and it was out of spec. I checked the timing too, and it was 10 degrees, plus or minus 1 - right on spec. I'll do valves tonight, and check timing again. Bosch injector plugs come today in the mail too. Thanks everyone!

Thanks - no rudeness taken at all - I really appreciate the detailed feedback and your patience with my level of knowledge here - I really am learning a lot as I go here. In good news, I tried the oil filler cap while running removal and it killed the engine in seconds - so that would imply my vacuum system is not leaking, correct? I'm going to try to do timing, valves, switch adjustment tonight. I've also ordered some new Bosch connectors for the injectors, cold start valve, etc, since mine were brittle and falling to pieces. Thanks again

I just checked out the pages you're referencing (I have the same FSM at home too). Are you talking about the Throttle position switch (TPS)? I did have an issue with the TPS last year when it got wet during an engine cleaning (car went into "limp mode") - I had to blow dry it to make the car work again...maybe it's corroded and causing extra contacts like you mentioned above? I'll see if I can run that test - is it as simple as taking off the TPS cover and using a tolerance tool (like I use for valve adjustments) to measure the gap, and then adjust it? Phil