PhilbertZ

Thanks for the oil cap tip! They test at 15 MPH (1657 RPM) and 25 MPH (2674 RPM). The "MAX" legal limit for CO is 1.35% @ 15 MPH, and 1.15% @ 25 MPH. I was *Just* under at 25 MPH with a 1.14% reading, and *way over* at 15 MPH with a 2.82% reading. So basically, it looks like I'm running rich and have too much CO coming through - right? My NO readings were very low - no issues there. I've read that you can change the air/fuel mixture on the AFM when removing a factory installed screw cover and turning a screw, but honestly, I'm nowhere near that level of confidence/expertise, and I would do more damage than good there (plus I don't have diagnostic equipment to do changes on the fly).

Thanks Challenger. I haven't done an EGR test - not sure how to but can look in the FSM. I did the ECU/EFI system resistance test with an ohmmeter over the weekend and things seemed to all work correctly, according to the FSM tests. Dumb question, but what is the best way to test vacuum lines? and if bad, can I just replace with generic silicon ones (are the thicknesses relatively the same across the board in the engine bay)?

Thanks RP for the feedback on this. 1) He's about twice the age of my car 2) CA (ugh) - my registration says "High emitter profile" 3) Don't know....it will cost $20 more to test again (didn't charge me the full amount when I failed - subtracted $20 out from total Since failing, I replaced plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I will do timing and valve adjustment before going back. I also have on order BOSCH replacement connectors for my injectors, cold start valve, etc ($10 each with free shipping - can't beat that!). Once that's all done, I will take it back for re smog. Not sure how best to check for vacum leaks?

The air flow meter? I'm learning about it through the EFI Bible I downloaded (70+ pages!). What does it have to do with the O2 sensor being fused on though? I was surpirsed that it was fused on (indicating it had not been changed in 20+ years) - the previous owner took meticulous care of the car since new - $20,000+ in receipts when I got it.

well, my mechanic ended up burning/grinding the old one out and was able to utilize the old reducer with the new O2 sensor. Now timing and valve adjustment and crossing fingers for smog!

Hi all, So, I failed smog, and have been doing some tune up things to the car to improve my chances on the second pass. Removing the 02 sensor didn't work out - in a BAD way - the hex bolt started to strip so I stopped and took to my mechanic to finish the job, along with my new O2 sensor. He could not get it off - it was fused or something...it broke. The O2 sensor is screwed into some kind of a "reducer" - A larger hex bolt threaded piece that screws into the manifold (similar to aftermarket sender unit mounts for guages - oil pressure, etc). So now he has the reducer out, with the broken old O2 sensor fused in it. He's tried a vice and breaker bar- and heat - nothing is breaking that thing loose. He's trying to locate a reducer piece that will fit where the old one did (and will fit the new O2 sensor), but is coming up short. Any of you guys had this happen and if so, how did you resolve it? Until I find a fix, I'll have a hole in my manifold and am unable to drive it Thanks

Thanks Scott! I didn't realize they were the same as the injectors. I found a great DIY about how to do this too: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html Thanks a TON! Phil

Hi guys, Upon failing smog for the first time, and doing some tune up (and reading the EFI Bible), I'm learning a lot about EFI and doing the ECU tests in the Bible (really great resource!). Also finding that the connectors on my EFI parts are old and brittle....upon removing the cold start valve harness connector, it simple cracked and now neeeds electrical tape to stay on. I'm wondering if there are sources for these plugs that I could use to "refresh" my engine bay - at least the EFI stuff like this? Are there generic plugs that could work with these connectors or do I need to use OEM? I'd rather get new plastic than another, 30 year old connector - for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance for any leads! Phil

Exactly! Hot looking s30 though!

"Prothane"...just like I stated in my post above Looks like it's not available right now for the S130 on Ebay, but here's a link to the S30 kit, from the same seller (good seller): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Datsun-260Z-280Z-Prothane-Total-Bushing-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem4836ba287cQQitemZ310155815036QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I paid about $100 for it.

I got a complete Prothane bushing kit online for $100 - eBay. Worked out great - the difference is astonishing. I have a DIY with pics of the install here if you search my username

abes - I did this install this spring with Prothane bushings. Makes it really tight -I love the handling. I was worried too about the tension rods snapping - hasn't happened yet. Official word from Prothane was that they were fine with poly on both sides of the tension rod front mount, and not to change them out...I'm sticking with it and will cross my fingers. Search my user name and you'll find my DIY with tons of pics.

it's gone

Did the photos stop hosting? I see red and white X's....

never heard of this swap before but good luck - I'd love to see the progress if you go this route. Sounds like you're on a strict budget for this...if you weren't, I'd say drop an S54 in there

Nice!

The torque specs are in the FSM. For the end links, you need 2 wrenches - one to hold the bottom nut/bolt end, and one to tighten (torque wrench) I think torque specs are the same...while oem rubber will compress more to get to the proper tightening spec, the poly just won't compress as much - it's still the same amount of compression/torque. Make sure you are torquing when the suspension is under load - and not up on jack stands and hanging there.

I used heat shrink tubing from harbor freight (cheap and easy)

Thanks guys. I heard back from Prothane officially, and here's what they said: "As for the inquiry, I am not sure if the forum is referring to our Prothane brand bushings specifically or another manufacturer. I have not heard of a problem with our bushings in this location/vehicle. All I can add is that we recommend only using our bushings in the way they were intended and do not recommend modifying the bushings as that would void the warranty and could cause the bushings to fail." I guess I'll just run with these and see what happens and cross my fingers. Montezuma - it seems like a pretty solid kit - good packaging and included grease - the hardware seems quality too. I'd go with it - I can't imagine a huge difference between these and Energy - it's all the same material. Things to think about if you have extra cash/gift card: Stainless steel brake lines, new ball joints (front), new tie rod ends...

thanks Corie - yes I remember your incident describes earlier - that's what I'm trying to avoid. So, with your replacement TR, are you running the combo of the 1/2 poly 1/2 OEM Rubber on the TRs, or sticking with a full poly setup? Phil

Does anyone else want to weigh in on their poly bushing experience please? still waiting to hear from Prothane....

1 for the 4runner 2 for the Z 1 for the BMW

Oh man...that's not what I wanted to hear! But needed to... I'm still trying to reach out to Prothane directly and see if they have an official recommendation for how to preserve the life of my tension rods - I really don't want them to go and I'm not ready for the TTT upgrade ($$$). Phil

I can't get mine to budge either - tried same things you have. Rear diff was hard too but finally got it loose. What did you end up doing to fill it - where is that "reverse switch" - do you have a photo?

Thanks - just to be clear however, I'm not talking about splitting the tranny in two for this - just asking if I need to undo the mounts for the tranny to the frame (to allow the tranny/engine to lift up as one unit)? Thanks again guys.