wrcbonk

Hey, I have not checked the forum in a while. Just now seeing your post. Did you get your RB started? Bill

Yes, I plumbed the stock fuel return boss from the tank back to the canister using a inline hose adapter from Autozone. Its a pretty even swap as long as the big vent line on the back side of the tank is functioning.

I am not sure how 5thgen hooked into the stock tank. I will let you know what I did and it has been working well for several years. The line on top of the tank (3/8ths) is a vent line that goes to the canister. I disconnected that vent line from the canister and used it as the return inlet for my fuel delivery system. I did that because the factory return inlet on the tank is only 1/4 inch, if that. An important note, if you use that 3/8th vent as a fuel return you must make sure the other larger vent line on the other side of the top of the tank is venting properly and that the hose is not crimped. I used the stock outlet (on the tank - 5/16ths) to supply my clicker pump that supplies my surge tank. If you need photos let me know.

Beautiful engine bay, looking forward to updates.

As Neverdone and Seattlejester indicated there are pros and cons to each setup. I went with an external system. It has been working without issue for 4+ years in my RB25DET/S30. There is enough room back there to mount everything and I used the existing factory wiring (hot Green wire and Black chassis ground). Both the low pressure supply clicker style pump and the Walbro EFI pump work great and don't get hot. I have never had the fuel cut in a corner (street use only). The Walbro fuel pump whines under normal operating conditions. My understanding is that the Bosch is more expensive and quieter, spend the money. I am using the small BC Broncos swirl pot which doubles as a filter. Internal pumps are industry standard because the fuel cools the pump, but you must modify your tank. No problem if you know how to modify a thin steel tank, go for it (and many people on this site have those skills), but imagining you will find someone or a shop to modify your fuel tank maybe wishful thinking. Regardless you must have a properly sized return line to keep everything in balance. I replaced the 1/4-inch line with a 5/16ths and used the upper 3/8ths vent port on the tank to return the fuel. TonyD points out you can use the fuel vent line (5/16ths or 3/8ths) as your return that runs from the from the back near the tank to the engine bay, as long as you are willing to reconfigure your fuel vapor system after that.

Ok, I will fall for this, how about pm Pat1...

Read the Amazon reviews for more information on how to install the Rare Parts inner tie rods. https://www.amazon.com/Rare-Parts-RP26575-Tie-Rod/dp/B000CK8XTS

I had the same concerns. I traded a few emails with Tony D and came up with the following. I kept 13 plumbed from the tank to the two way valve in the engine bay. The blow part of the valve (the end where excess fuel vapors are expelled from the tank) is plumbed to my intake. The Suck end of the valve is plumbed to a small air filter (a low pressure fuel filter I had laying around, whatever it does the job) ensuring no particulates get into my fuel system. In the past I had issues with fuel tank vapor pressure forcing fuel out my filler causing havoc. I have had no issues with the present plumbing and I live in HOT Sacramento. Bonk 2 cents

Not sure what kinds of boost level you are running with the stock ECU. I have hit Fuel Cut several times running the stock ECU with too much boost pressure ~13 lbs or more). It's Nissan's way of saving the engine. I can't afford the engine management computer I want at the moment so I run modest boost pressure, ~ 9lbs, and use Royal Purple Octane Booster if I want to rev it out. The stock ECU timing table is set for 97 octane, it pulls timing and dumps fuel when the knocks start coming from fuel starvation or inadequate octane. my 2 cents

KnuckleDuster, You find the best stuff, that angled shifter would save me a lot of headache, modify my stock unit. Didn't see it in the Nismo shop online. Do you have a part number? Thanks Bonk

If your engine comes with a harness in good shape making the connections is straight forward. It will save you a big chunk of change. Remember you are only talking about the engine harness, not the whole car. You are mainly just giving the harness power and ground for ignition and fuel. The key is to go one circuit at a time and use quality electrical supplies (solder, heat shrink, good wire, good relays (Bosch)). The only reason I bought a harness from WS was because the harness that came with the engine was trashed and I made it worse being a dumbas@. 2 cents

Came back around to this thread after losing touch. The sterileness of your engine bay is amazing, especially the electrical. Look forward to more updates. Bill

I was admiring your glovebox gauge holder. Do you remember where you got it? Thanks

That SS strap is very nice, cool fuel delivery setup.

This is of interest to me because I was planning to buy the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU 55001 for my Series 1 R33. Is the 550001 the model you have? Do you have the stock ecu? You could try to use the stock computer to get the car running. I was able to start my engine first crank using the stock ECU (that is after we fixed all the fuel leaks that started as soon as I charged the pump). Have you emailed Haltech yet? I emailed them in the past and It took a few days, but they got back to me with good information. Will be watching your progress. Bill