Corzette

Guys thats in Japan and it would be about $1790. Still a good deal for something no one else has and watanabes... Terry

If you have time this is fun. S30 parts available in Japan. http://search.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/search?p=s30+z&f=0x2&alocale=0jp&mode=2&auccat=0&apg=1 Im considering being the bidder for Hybridz on this for parts that can be shipped USPS only. If anyone is interested let me know so Ill know if its worth my time. So far the process is simple and may be doable for me if there is enough interest. Terry http://search.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/search?p=s30+z&f=0x2&alocale=0jp&mode=2&auccat=0&apg=1

Dammit! I wish I knew if these would fit the IMSA flare kit I bought. These are sweet! 12J in the rear and 10J in the front. Check it out! http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m48098750 Terry

Thought I was the only one....damn now Im even venturing into Hakosuka's. But tell me Im a fool? How cool is it having the best two historical cars japan ever produced....Im stuck with the fever and dont wanna get well.... Terry

Thanks bro...Ill take the two side flange axles only then...Ill PM you with addy. Terry

Yes you are correct. However the R200 snout flange has two different spreads on the bolt patern of which one is the same as the R180. Thats what I was needing. Otherwise I will need to find the snout flange that has the same bolt pattern spread. Ive had to change this more than once in the past and camnt remember what year they changed... Terry

Happy B Day DOC! Hey I sent you an EMail awhile back about the BigBlock you have. Did ya get it? Still have that motor? I had some questions... Terry

Joe, you are the man! Yes Sir, thats exactly what I need. PLease let me know how much you want for the left and right axle and I buy them asap. Also I noticed you have a diff flange for the snout that bolts to the drive shaft flange. I have an R200 but havent checked to see if the spread is the same as the R180. I know there are two different snout flanges on the R200s. If the mounting holes on that flange you have is the same as the spread on the R180, I will take one from you too! Do you take PayPal or how would you like me to pay? This stuff would be going to zip 96387 and would need a customs form mailed USPS priority mail only. Shoot me the total price and Ill take em! Thanks Joe, saves me alot of time and I appreciate your help. TErry

HS30, thanks buddy, that is definately a great option. I also had sent an EMail to ZBarn. Thanks for looking out. Terry

Help...Im upgrading the R180 Diff in my Hakosuka to an R200. I have the R200 and the Victory50 Mustache bar made for the swap. The R200 didnt come with the flange axles in the diff so I will need to source those. I was thinking that all of you guys that did the CV conversion may still have some flanges laying around you dont need. I have some but in Texas storage. If anyone has a pair (left and Right) I would be glad to buy them from you. Id like to upgrade my R200 soon because its a 3.7 and the R180 is much higher I think. I only have a 4 speed in there and the 3.7 will help lots......please advise and thanks in advance.... Terry

Thats what I would think. Thanks Terry. Since there is no gear to key in I bet the install applies to all the other cars but ours is unique so.... I also shot this question off to TEch Help too. Terry

OOH RAH speed racer!! Thanks!! Terry

Mallory experts chime in please. Ok I got the Unilite and want to install it. I set the engine to TDC and the old distributor rotor points to the number 1 plug wire. I make a mark on the engine below the distributor to show where the original rotor position is before taking out dizzy. There is no way to put the distributor in wrong since there is no gear and it is keyed to go one way only (good stuff). Ok now I pull the old dizzy out and put in the Unilite. Only thing is the rotor now points some totally different position. Cant change that since its predetermined. So I put on the cap on the unilite. Now...for the plug wires...do I place the number one plug wire on the Unilite cap by the previous mark I made from the old cap, OR do I place the number one plug wire where the rotor is now pointing on the UNilite distributor? Why in the hell does Unilite have to change the rotor position anyways? It would be even easier if was the same but noooooooo. So hope someone can help me out....gonna swap it in and an MSD 6a this weekend so the wiring will be simple.... Thanks in advance. Terry

Cliff can you get me the offset on those rims? Im think CCWs at 13 inch X 17s would be perfect for me and allow the use of a small spacer if needed to get em just right. Next time the wheels are off can you measure the back space. Thanks buddy! Terry

A red one on a truck passed right by me on the expressway about 6 months ago. I took pics with the cel phone but I cant get em off to post. The car was selling for around 10K I believe. Hell that may be the same one....wierd...

Its the new Unilite model they have out there...I believe the 9000 series? The box is in my car....what ever the brand new Unilite is, it was about 400 bucks. Im not saying its not good to use these but I am frustrated that mine was defective and now can't get my money back. $200 and anyone can have it. Buy the new ignitor and its gold or send it in to Mallory for warranty. If no one wonts it Ill send it in for repair..... Terry

Ill just get it repaired and make someone a deal on EBay I guess, maybe here on Japan Yahoo. I paid $400 for that damn thing and will have to let it go for half probably. Hopefully the Petronix will work out with the MSD 6A....

I thought Id share this with everyone. Im pissed to say the least. I bought a Mallory Unilite and tried to install today. Took all day because it wasnt getting spark. Put in the old point distributor and it fired right up. I ordered the Petronix upgrade so I hope that will be easy enough. Anyways, heres what I wrote the company: "Hello, I have recieved the distributor but it was defective. The ignitor seemed to be defective and would not produce a spark. This is what my mechanic confirmed. We reinstalled the old distributor and all was well. PLease let me know where to send this back to for a refund. Thanks... Terry Baldwin" And his reply: "There is not a refund and what likely happened is that somehow during install the module was damaged. What we can do is replace the module under Mallory's warranty. You would need to remove the module, send it in for testing/replacement. There are two screws that hold the module in place, and then just use a small screwdriver or other device to retract the barbs (one for each wire) that go into the nylon harness connector plug. Light push each wire into the plug, use the screwdriver in the opposite side (connector site) and gently push against the barb and then the wire(s) can be pulled out of the plug. You may also contact Mallory regarding warranty at (216) 688-8300 Best Regards, Sales & Technical Support Staff Century Performance Center, Inc. http://www.centuryperformance.com ph. (775) 746-4887 fax (702) 953-0705 I told them I wasnt going to start disassebmling this thing and cause more damage so I told them I would send back the entire distributor for repair. I am waiting on thier reply. Im starting to hate Mallory cause I know itll be a long time before I get it back. I hope the Petronix works better and I hope its not to hard to hook up a MSD 6A to it. Maybe someone who has done it can chime in. I was wondering where the two wires will exit when installing since there doesnt appear to be a hole in the housing to pull them through. Thanks for reading!!! Terry

Though someone would like to see this...little over 13K. http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r41885020 Terry

Just incase anyone was interested in my progress and where I got them from and cost for my widebody build....here is where Im at at the end of 2007. 2 1/2 years to go.... Z32TT DIFF JOEL HYBRIDZ $300.00 4 Q45 CV AXLES JOEL HYBRIDZ $ 0.00 R200 ALUM MUSTACHE BAR ARIZONAZ $249.00 BILLET REAR BRACE SETUP ARIZONAZ $349.00 Q45 DIFF MAICHOR $ 50.00 R200 LSD DIFF TRADE $100.00 2 300ZX CV AXLES TRADE $0.00 Q45 DRIVESHAFT FLANGE PowerTrain Ind Infinity is 3102-69 $80.00 Z32 DRIVESHAFT FLANGE 6 bolt is 3102-42 $80.00 R230 AXLES WITH STOPS MODERN MOTORSPORTS $398.00 LS1 INSTALL KIT JOHNS CARS $320.00 IMSA FENDER SET OMER $1,100.00 REAR DUCK WING PAULO $60.00 REAR CORVETTE FULL PANEL ZFIBERGLASS $275.00 SS FIBER HOOD 280ZONE $500.00 GNOSE PROXAMOUS $500.00 Q45 AXLE ADAPTOR 6 BOLT LS1240Z $208.00 GNOSE HINGE BADDOG PARTS $225.00 Total $4,794.00

Well I applied POR15 to the left side of the engine bay today to what I could reach. Man what a difference, I love that stuff. Just dont get it on your hands...takes a week to come off! Ill post before and after tomorrow! What I did was used a putty knife to go over the inside engine bay left fender side to get rid of any burrs, old paint etc. I then sanded by hand with 400 grit to smooth out the surface a bit. I then cleaned with denatured alchohol to get all the dirt off etc. I then applied a nice coat of silver POR15 to the metal. I had to stand around and brush it every 5 minutes or so so it wouldnt have any runs to it. After about 2 hours or so it got tacky/sticky and I applied my Toyota metalic silver spray paint onto it while still uncurred. This covered up any uneven streaks and soaked right into the POR nicely. Once it curred (about 3 to 5 hours) it was rock solid and looks great. Notice the before and after. I will have many of these sessions to get everything but itll keep me busy when I run out of parts to install...hehe. I will remove a fender at a time to do the underside areas etc once the bay is done (that could be awhile). After that Ill do the floor pans, gotta secure that damn water leak first.. I have water coming into the floor pans so I fixed the driver side. Found out it was the seam sealer that failed or got too old to do its job. Surprisingly there is no rust thrus anywhere in the rain pan. So I used GOOP to seal her back up. Ill know tomorrow if it worked or not. That stuff is pretty solid as well when curred. Thats all for today. The hobby shop is closed till Wed for New Years so no more work until after the holidays...booooooo. Terry

A work in progress..... http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=18618254&uid=533777&members=1 Complete so far: 1. POR15 to the cowl underside and rainpan. 2. Replaced rubber seals front and back on cowl 3. Replaced wiper boots, rainpan left and right rubber seals 4. upgraded coil to MSD Blaster II 5. Installed Arizona Z 4 barrel intake 6. Installed Holley 390 carb (removed choke..hated it) 7. New shifter boot from MSA 8. 14 inch 6J Watanabe rims 21 offset front 16 offset back. 9. Installed front lip spolier 10. Rear shocks KYB (http://www.victory50.com'>http://www.victory50.com) Parts onhand to install: 1. Holley Red pump upgrade 2. Mallory Unilite electronic distributor 3. Dejet Holley 390 primaries to 47 vice 51 (2000cc engine requires less gas obviously) 4. PCV valve mod 5. Holley carb spring bracket Parts to order soon: 1. MSD 6A control unit (cant wait to replace ballast resistor system) Parts to order in a couple of months: 1. 48mm steel header (http://www.victory50.com'>http://www.victory50.com) 2. Complete exhaust from header back steel GC10 dual pipes (http://www.victory50 .com) 3. Phantom gauges MSA (tach def first for the MSD benefit) and clock since it will be an easy install....hehe. Parts I will get before leaving here: 1. New rotors/calipers for front and rear 2. Roll cage GTR 3. Front adjustable struts (KYB) 4. R200 5. Windshield rubber seal 6. Rear window rubber seal 7. All four door seals and body frame seals 8. Trunk seals 9. GTR over fenders 10. Contemplating having rear fender cut out to accomodate the GTR over fenders so I can run a bigger rim. Sorta like the original style but tires are too skinny to hold any power I may add in the future. LS1 would be nice but would never be practicle with 185 rear tires...maybe 195s at best.....someone tell me Im wrong so I can get excited.... Next big project: 1. Floor pan repair via POR15 kit 2. Add new sound deadener 3. Add black carpet and new floor mats

Thats a 1991 so in 2016 he can without any problems. Im waiting till 2014 to bring back or have a 1989 R32 shipped. Hell I would advise anyone here that can store one or drive one till 2014 to do it while they are cheap then ship it back after the 25 year exemption has been reached. I am sure prices will go up for exporting these when the 25 year clause comes into effect...just speculation. Hell Ill be here till June 2010 so only 3 1/2 years after that and they will be exportable right? Finally taking initial pics of the Hakosuka today and will post later... Terry

Actually the Y plate is cheap. I pay about $400 for a two year JCI and only $300 a year for insurance so its crazy cheap actually compared to the states. Road tax is annual but only 19000 yen for that car. Terry

Nice find....did ya get that from some poor American that spent his life savings on mods and then had to roatate and found out he couldnt take it with him...lol? Thats the only thing I hate about certain cars here...if your not gonna stay here forever its all money down the drain. You of course made out big time. It is funny how cheap used cars are here and I dont get it. The Japanese could be making a mint if the culture was anything like the states. Hell you cant even buy a POS NEON with 110K on it for 5 grand...lol. My Aristo in mint condition and only 60K when I bought it with twin turbo 2JZ was only 2K....WTH? Enjoy it while you can right!!! Congrats on the find.. Terry