niceguy678us

that is THE coolest thing I have ever heard my life is forever changed

DANGIT forgot my little buddy--->

Sorry about the split Dan. I just didn't know which forum to post in so I thought I might try both (paint and body/body kits. By the way, how does the TPI feel, power wise, and how does the car pull from low to high end? I've heard that the TPI's fall off the face of the earth after 5,000 is this a fact, or is it rectifiable?

Hey drew, could you pwetty pweese give me the web site you were talking about "showcars"? And did they have pictures of the hoods?

Thanks RPMS, I look foreward to seeing the pics! I hope everything goes well and easy for you, because it won't be much longer till I get mine.

I believe the guy on that link is the same guy and same pieces that were on ebay rescently. I saw the subtle hoods and they look like only the small stock hump is raised, I think all the others are wider am I correct? And how does that TPI fit? Do you need a cowl hood to clear it?

I am sorry, I should have put it into these words............ " I personally like the ease of installation of a chevrolet small block V8 into a first gen Z. You can pretty much just slip it in without any major reconstruction of the vehicle. Now the opel on the other hand, came from the factory with JUST enough room for the stock 4 cylinder, and putting a chevrolet V8 would require chopping up and re designing the firewall, inner fender wells, foreward frame rails,transmission tunnel, etc. the list goes on and on. For my needs I prefer the Datsun Z for not only the ease of installation, but the body lines and natural stance that cannot be bought in any other vehicle, in other words, a car with a style all it's own that can easily and inexpensively be made to be a force to be recond with.IMHO Ode to all the other Z lovers that participate in this site......

The fender and rocker flares look like a kit they sell for the old Opel GT"s, and the lights might have been borrowed from one as well???? I researched Opel GT's before I decided to go with the Z. The opels engine compartment is WAAAAYYY too small for a small block chevy, and would have required cutting out the fender wells etc. Still a nice looking ride!

I am looking into installing electric door locks, power windows, and a hatch button. I was wondering what any of you guys have experimented with, and which ones you would recomend for quality. My ideal setup (envisioned) would be an alarm system that has the extra button on the little remote that unlocks the doors, the hatch shaved and smoothed with the unlock button mounted by the drivers seat on the floor like hondas, and the window controlls in the car mounted to the door panel in the original crank handle "hole". I've been researching this idea and could use a bit of ol' fashioned trial and error stories and reccomendations. Thank you for your time!

Yes but, no one gave any info on the construction of the hoods, just who still made them. I am looking for a specific type, and asking about the durability of this type.

Can you guys direct me to the company that makes the fiberglass cowl induction hoods with the metal hood "skeleton" underneath the fiberglass "skin". I would like to find this particular one, saw one very rescently on ebay and liked the idea of the metal reinforcement, and retaining the stock hinges and latch. I never liked the look of hood pins and would like to avoid this if at all possible. Also would you also know of the quality of these hoods, I've heard that over a few years fiberglass tends to seperate from the metal it is bonded to. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Can you guys direct me to the company that makes the fiberglass cowl induction hoods with the metal hood "skeleton" underneath the fiberglass "skin". I would like to find this particular one, saw one very rescently on ebay and liked the idea of the metal reinforcement, and retaining the stock hinges and latch. I never liked the look of hood pins and would like to avoid this if at all possible. Also would you also know of the quality of these hoods, I've heard that over a few years fiberglass tends to seperate from the metal it is bonded to. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Will they fit an old fashioned 4 bolt main 350, and do you think they would clear a 700r? I wouldn't mind paying for a set of "fitted" full length headers. thanks for the input Tim !!!!!!!!!!

My "x" daily driver was a bone stock automatic 75 280z 2+2, and I've had it up to 135 on a backroad, handled great, no shimmy after 100 in the front end, had more pedal left, I backed off due to not being able to afford a ticket. I ran the piss out of that car every day and loved it. The car had rusted out rockers and radiator support, the driver side rear a arm bushing(rearmost of the two) was missing in action lol, etc. you get the picture. But no matter how hard I rode her,no matter what I threw at her she took it, EVERY DAY. Point- guess the ol gal handled better all wore out, holy, and soft than I ever expected, therefore bringing a deeper and closer love for the old Z's.

I was wondering if any of you guys that have used this vintage air setup have been able to use the factory cable style selectors in the dash heater control panel? I am also wondering what you guys did to plumb these setups into the stock vent housings? Please comment and share the "trial and error" knowledge if you've done this conversion, or any other conversion to the 240Z air/heat systems! Any and all info would be greatly appreciated!

that's exactly it!!!! thanks Jeff for the help. my original is banged up and the black paint is gone, left with just a piece of tin with 1/71 stamped in the corner. definitely need a replacement.

I remember briefly skimming through a site one time and saw that this guy makes new vin number plates for the door jam. I don't remember where I saw it or what the name of the site was. Seems I remember he was around the new york area, an older guy who has been working on datsuns his whole life, and was now making previously unavailable replacement parts, but you had to send him a copy of the title and stuff for him to make your plates. Does anyone know where that Z site is?

my ex-daily driver was a 75 2+2 and I loved to stay between 100, and 120 when possible. I know this is not safe , but I'm young and dumb and enjoying the hell out of it.

wouldn't 4:11 gears be too much? I thought the light weight Z didn't have hardly any traction through the first two gears anyway with a built up motor? Wouldn't something around 3:54 be a better choice? and as always, your wisdom and advice are greatly appreciated you are the man

Grumpyvette,...............you are the man!

Well here goes my Hybrid . com debiew. I have a 71 240, with absolutely no rust but a silver dollar spot on the floor, above the very rear of the passenger frame rail. I am going to have a 406 pushing the 500hp envelope. I have already decided on the custom frame and reinforced floors. roll cage to be the next stage in development. I am calling on all the big dawgs (Tim, Pete, Mike, and others) in this group for advice and tips before I put the car on the rotisserie. If possible please email me and I will also be checking up in here semi-daily. P.S.- Tim, hows the R230 kit coming? - And who makes the custom adjustable lower control arms, for sale? Thank you for your time,The Nice Guy.

Well here goes my Hybrid . com debiew. I have a 71 240, with absolutely no rust but a silver dollar spot on the floor, above the very rear of the passenger frame rail. I am going to have a 406 pushing the 500 envelope. I have already decided on the custom frame and reinforced floors. roll cage to be the next stage in development. I am calling on all the big dawgs (Tim, Pete, Mike, and others) in this group for advice and tips before I put the car on the rotisserie. If possible please email me and I will also be checking up in here semi-daily. Thank you for your time,The Nice Guy.