SidWell

Ya. The color code leaves something to be desired. Even multiple grounds.... I am sure they did it for a reason. Innovate is about 3 blocks from where I work. I will take it over there tomorrow for them to look at. It did work prior to my rewire of the engine bay. I have also tested it directly hooked to the battery. I am sure I fried it somehow during the rewire.

I have either broken my LC-1 or WB sensor or both. The sensor does not get hot. The black wire (calibration) on the LC-1 always reads zero volts when veiwed from an oscilloscope. I have tried to communicate with the controller with LogWorks but the LogWorks program says there is no serial port available. I have the terminating resistor on the input and the comm port plugged into the Out recepticle. I cannot find were to configure the comm port for the program. Where do I go from here?

I zipped up my msq file. That was the only way I was able to post it.

Thanks for the input. I will check the VR sensor as well. Does anybody know how the schematic lays out for the MoPar coil pack? The best I can figure is the coil is between a set of plugs such as from 1 to 6. When the signal from the EDIS controller transitions from 0 to +12v and back again it creates a voltage potiential in the secondary windings. This is what generates the voltage for both plugs. But if this is the case, how can one plug fire and not the other. You need both plugs to be firing to complete the circuit.

I just tested the #1 & #6 plug wires with the screwdriver. I saw a spark on both. I hooked up the timing light and it flashed on #1 but not on #6. Could it be that the cylinders are so full of fuel that the plugs won't fire? I tried to blow out the cylinders using compressed air but I am not sure if it did any good.

I am not sure if this is the root problem or a symptom. I do not see a spark going to any of my plugs when I put a timing light on the spark plug wires. When I clamp the two common coil plugs together and crank the car, I see sparking on the plugs. I have verified the timing light works on another car. I installed 6 new Bosch Platinum plugs. Recently I rewired the engine bay. I removed the prototype wiring, cleaned up the harnesses and ran the relay box and MS ECU inside the passengers compartment. I have gone over my harness several times and unless I am missing something, it is all there. When I first rewired the MS, the car started, stumbled, ran very poorly and ultimately stopped running. I have since noticed my WB O2 sensor is pegged at the very rich setting. I have verified I have fuel pressure by disconnecting the fuel hose, letting the fuel squirt onto a rag, reconnecting the hose, cranking the engine and then disconnecting the hose and verifying the fuel squirts agan. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge at this time. MS II v3, EDIS ignition using a MoPar coil pack. Could the richness of the mixture keep the plugs from firing?

The second pic shows the mount to the generator pulley. That is exactly how I wanted to implement it as well. I was advised that this is not the best way to install the 36 - 1 wheel because it is not stable. As it was explained to me, the rubber isolator can shift and change the timing as much as 2 degrees. The other issue is, over time the position of the pulley can shift or completely delaminate. This is why the wheel is mounted to to the solid part of the dampner. It may work well for you but be aware of the issues associated with it.

I second Evil. Mine is mounted to the front as well. My first attempt over a year ago was to put it on the back but I was told that there were flaws in my implementation. Please show us how you mounted the 36 - 1 wheel to the back of the pulley.

I am not much up on tuning multiple carbs these days but it seems to me that keeping 6 carbs in tune is a bit of a handful. As an earlier post said, you get full marks for creativity. I just wonder how many miles you will get between taking a screwdriver to the carbs.

I am seeing kinking in the hose for #1 cylinder. That can't be a good thing. I suspect that #6 hose is kinked as well. I think that your carbs are too wide for your application. You might want to consider throttle bodies from a fuel injected bike and Megasquirt it.

Remember; for anything to burn, you need heat, fuel and oxygen. In theory, you could weld under gasoline as long as the heat did not reach an area that has oxygen in it.

Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 78Z fuel pump? Alternatively, can someone tell me what harness connector the wiring goes thru? What energizes the fuel pump? I am under the impression that it is the oil pressure sensor. Is this correct?

Do I see a EDIS rig on the crank pulley? Are you using a megasquirt as well?

The bracket has slots for adjusting the sensor closer or further from the wheel. I am still trying to figure out the best location for a third mounting point. The bracket is not as solid as it should be for street driving. As for the welding, the mig welder was a Christmas present. Until last January I had not welded an inch in my life. I have no formal instruction in welding. I am a better grinder than I am a welder. I will turn the heat down the next time. Thanks!

My car has not left the garage yet. Somewhere along the line, it will indeed be balanced.

Yes. I don't believe that there was ever a real problem with the pip. I was so concerned with the saw issue that I never really looked close enough at the pip to get a proper trigger. Since the MS was reading the tach signal I figured that it was working well enough to run and I would look into it later. Once the saw issue was resolved, I took a close look at the pip and it was just as the manual said it should be. I have recieved the saw wiring for my relay cable from the do it yourself shop where I purchased it. They sent it to me no charge. All is good. Next project is to clean up the wiring and mount the MS and relay box inside the cabin of the car. The relay box will be mounted in the left kick panel in the drivers foot well and the MS will go near the heater / AC blower motor.

It turns out that when I ordered the MS about 2 years ago, the board was pretty new on the market. (yes I am slow but I there are reasons). The cable had not yet been changed to accomodate the V3 board. The seller has been kind enough to send me the wiring with which to make the updates. It is nice to know, that for people like me that like to do it yourself, that there are still sellers out there who will honor a two year old sale.

When I was building my MS, I purchased a pre-made cable to connect the MS and the relay board. The cable was missing the SAW wire. Pin 36 was open on both ends. I will be contacting the seller shortly and requesting another cable. I have manually run a wire from the Ign pad on the MS to pin 11 on the relay board and I now have iginition advance confirmed by my timing light.

I was advised by a friend that I should get a variable cam timing gear and put it on a dyno. I am sure he is right but I cant do that right now. I am also chasing an issue where I cannot get the MS to advance the EDIS spark. I suspect that that is one of my biggest issues, but, I want to eliminate where possible. Yes I do have a wide band O2 sensor. I also have a 3 x 2 bbl fuel injection manifold. Yep, one butterfly per cylinder. That coupled with a ported and polished head and 6 into 1 equal length exhaust header. I welded the WB O2 sensor into the collector of the header. Not much is the same as stock except for the block. Since it is a street cruiser and not a full blown race car, I do not expect to wind it much over 6K rpm. Who sells a variable cam timing gear for the L28?

I am also in the process of installing a MegaSquirt and EDIS system. I have several issues going on at the same time. I am simply trying to get as many things as close as possible right now. If I can verify it is close, then I have one less issue to worry about while trying to get the car to run smooth.

I got it from MSA in Orange. They are just down the street from me.

That sounds simple and makes sense. Thanks.

I thought as much, but, being a very lazy person, I thought I would ask first. Thank you.

Is there a quick or seat of the pants method to figure out if your cam timing is correct? I do not have a degree wheel or dial indicator. I have a new non-stock cam, new chain, upper and lower gears and tensioner. The notch aligns well using the first hole in the cam wheel, but, I am not sure that this is the best location as far as intake / exhaust timing goes. At this time, I just want to get the car running without stumbling and popping.

Can the oil pan gasket be replaced with the engine still bolted to the motor mounts?