SidWell

Last week I started messin around with the spark advance curve. I found that for a couple of degrees of advance, I had to add more fuel. I think I have got more spark advance left in the motor but this is where I am now. I was suprised at how much more fuel I am flowing now at wide open throddle above 4K RPM. I even had to add a string at 97.5 KPa to keep the AFR from getting too lumpy. The WBO2 sensor usually hangs around 13:1 for just about all values above 80 KPa. I guess that means I am making horsepower.

Zmanco... Thanks.... a bit of a sanity check is always welcome..

Now that is the kind of answer I was looking for. I wanted to make sure everybody else was flying by the seat of their pants as well. Thanks! Does anybody have a copy of the stock advance curve? If I knew the stock advance curve I would use that in a heart beat.

OK...... Then how is it done????? I understand that it is "all in" at 3K rpm. I understand that the idle is somewhere between 10 to 15 degrees. How do I figure out what "all in" is??? Keep advancing the spark until it starts to ping and then back of 2 or 3 degrees? If "all in" at wide open throddle (98 KPa) is 35 degrees at 3K rpm, what should the advance be at partial throddle (75 KPa) and 3K rpm? The manifold pressure does have an effect on the flame front in the cylinder. How much should the spark be retarded for a drop of 15KPa? BRAAP: You say the curve in the spread sheet looks lazy. I see that the advance continues well past 3K rpm. How do you know what a good curve looks like? I am not questioning your knowledge, I am trying to understand the process. Am I missing something? Am I trying to over think the problem?

I have asked several times and in several ways about how to set up timing from scratch for an EDIS igntion with no luck. After a long search, I found another forum dedicated to the MS that had the following link. http://powerpage.dk/tuning_ignition_configurator.aspx It is in Danish but the spreadsheet has an English component. If you double click on the spread sheet you can either open it or save it. This may help some of you other guys to get a handle on your spark.

Why are you using 440cc injectors? You will never be able to utilize that much flow on a normally aspirated engine. You could use injectors half that flow rate and still have just as much horse power. You will find you will have more problems tuning the engine at lower RPMs with high flow injectors.

Another part to the question; is the advance linear or is there a curve to it? As I understand it full advance above 3K rpm. Does that change with manifold vacuum? What about at 2K rpm full throttle and 2K rpm cruising down the street, is the advance the same for both? What rate does the advance change between 1K rpm and 3K rpm at full throttle and at moderate throttle? My idle MAP is 80 KPa and at wide open throttle it is 99.9 KPa. The min KPa at closed throttle deceleration is 25KPa. At freeway cruise speed my MAP is around 65KPa. How does the change in MAP affect the ignition advance? I have read the theory but the practical application for my motor is a little hard to extrapolate. As I understand it, advance the spark until it starts to ping and then back off a couple of degrees. That is easy to do at normal cruising speeds (65 KPa) but hard to do under full throttle acceleration. If I get it set for cruising, can I say "advance the spark 1 degree for every 10 KPa increase or decrease the spark 1 degree for every 10 KPa decrease?

It is a stock block and stock compression ratio. I can burn 87 octaine without pinging.

L28 block and head, N/A, MS 2.886, EDIS ignition system. The fuel portion of my engine is pretty smooth but I am trying to figure out how to properly curve the ignition advance. The documentation is not all that clear to me. Other than using the butt dyno is there a right way to figure out how to properly advance the EDIS ignition based on RPM and MAP? Are there things NOT to do?

What code version are you using?

I found the problem. First, I think I broke the daughter board myself trying to understand the initial problem. The actual problem turned out to be a jumper I placed across D8. Since that grounded pin 30 the Fidle was always on. I am sure I grounded it for a purpose when I first built the board but the reason is lost on me now. The bottom line is, it it all works now.

I have read there may be an issue with trying to use Fidle and IAC at the same time. I have the IAC enabled. Could this be why my Fidle is not working?

The FIdle LED is always on no matter what I set in the config. Pin 34 on U1 is always low when I look at it with the o-scope. Looks like I will be buying another processor daughterboard.

I finally wired up my radiator fan to the PM2 FIdle spare port. Pin 30 is wired to the low side of of the relay coil. When power up the MS, the fan also spins up. I have followed the config instructions and have Port PM2 FIdle enabled, variable = coolant > threshold = 180, hysteresis = 10, there is no second decision set at this time. Power-on value = 0 Trigger value = 1. I have no way to shut the fans off. No changes to the configuration will shut the fans off. When I look at Pin 34 of U1, it always stays at about .1v, it never goes high. This tells me that I have an error in my config and not in my wiring. Is there a step that I am missing? Is there something else to try?

Just for your reference: I am using the stock turbo ZX injectors. 290cc flow rate. Check out this page: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm It does a better job of explaining it than I would.

Nice package. I wish it would have been available when I was doing my install. Is there a reason you chose to locate the VR sensor on the right (passenger side) of the motor and not on the left (driver's side) of the motor?

What is the fascination with high flow rate injectors? Unless you are expecting to produce upwards of 400+ hp from a 2.8 liter 6 cylinder engine, you are wasting your money on 450cc injectors. If you have 450cc injectors on a 200hp motor you will be very disapointed with the tunability of the MS. Right size the injectors for the expected horsepower.

I do have the polarity of the VR sensor wires reversed currently because i have my sensor mounted backwards. There is your first problem. Unless it is wired right, nothing will work. A bit of advice; Do not run your VR wires close to the alternator. That alternator puts out lots of electromagnetic noise.

How do you know you have no spark? Are you looking for it with a timing light? Do you have access to an oscilloscope? You can troubleshoot many MS issues with an o'scope. You can find older dual trace o'scopes on eBay for less than $200. The hours you will save getting your setup to work is well worth the investment. The first question is the polarity of the VR sensor on pins 5&6. If you are not 100% sure you have that correct you will have a hard time going much further. I am not sure what you mean by spout plug. If you don't have the MS installed yet, the unit has to be completely wired with the exception of pins 1%3. This will simulate the limp home mode. You can even hook up the MS and not hook up pin 3, this also will simulate the limp home mode. The nice thing about that is you can see if you have a tach pulse in MegaTune. Maybe if you submit a picture or two, that may help.

So you are saying the pretty looking straight thru fuel rails are the source of the lean run issue? What would happen if the fuel pump was switched on for a minute prior to starting the car? Wouldn't all the hot fuel be returned to the fuel tank?

I have a modified intake, cam, head and exhaust. At idle, the MAP is 79. I am still working on the tune but it seems to be working nicely so far.

I found this on the MegaSquirt forum: Do NOT use 2.889 code (for now) by Lance on Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:33 pm All, Due to a mistake on my part, I posted experimental 2.889 code on the release page. This code is not suitable for all users, and everyone should be using code version 2.888a instead. You can find this code here: http://www.megamanual.com/files/code/Monitor_v2.888a.abs.s19 http://www.megamanual.com/files/code/main_v2.888a.c http://www.megamanual.com/files/ini/megasquirt-II.ini.2.8 or linked from here: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/code.htm If you are experiencing any problems at all with 2.889, please switch to 2.888a immediately. Sorry to everyone affected for the inconvenience! Lance.

If you have not soldered before or it has been a long time, take a 10 minute break every hour or so. Then go back a review what you have just done before proceeding. You may find a mistake or two along the way. This will help you down the road once you are trying to get it to work. Don't hurry. Don't work if you are tired.

FWIW. I got my TPS from a 6 Cyl BMW in the local pick yr part. The unit is a very intuitive 3 wire set up. It has a very nice connector inches from the tps. It has the D shaped shaft adaptor. It took me about an hour to adapt it to my rig.

My engine is running pretty good now. I have most of the rich / lean issues and bucking taken out. Time to start working on the spark. Can someone please share their spark advance table? I know that there is no one size fits all but I would like a model or two to work from so I know where to slope the curve and where to flatten it out. If my curve does not resemble the models, then I have to look to see if I have an issue. MSII 2.886, MegaTune 2.25 Thanks in advance.