SidWell

Thanks for finding the trigger error. You could easily be right about the spark advance. I have read the section on the spark advance tool about 4 times and still not understood it.

Shucks The caps were never installed. That sounded like such a good solution too. I will remove the PIP input to MS, stick a 300 ohm resistor between the PIP and the ground on the EDIS unit and see if it generates a nice square wave all its own. The car won't start but I can at least see the timing pulse when it cranks. Back to basics, I guess.

I just opened it. I right clicked on the file and selected 'open' it opened with Megatune 2.25. I was also able to save it to a file, then unzip it, it also opened with Megatune 2.25. I do appreicate your help. Were you logged in?

Do you think that the cost per liter difference will ever pay back the cost of the project?

Matt, I hope you are right. Here is the latest msq file zipped up. MegaSquirtMSQ.zip

I am getting no ignition advance on the SAW pulse. I have gone thru my hardware configuration per step 50 of the assembly instructions. All looks good. I look at the PIP and SAW signals with a dual trace scope. I do not see any change in the SAW square wave. It all seems a little out of whack when I compare it to the EDIS setup document. I have the MS configured per the EDIS configuration in the setup doc. When I look at the timing with a timing light, it shows about 9.5 degrees. I am able to coax the engine up to about 2500 RPM but the ignition does not advance. When I disconnect the SAW from the relay board, I see no change in the ignition timing. Any Ideas on how to get the SAW active? The PIP and SAW share a common shielded cable. Is this a problem? The PIP looks more like a lazy sawtooth than a sharp square wave. I see the tach signal is working because it shows up on the Megatune.

OH NO!!! After all that work, someone please tell me that I wont have to move my CAS as well. I have an electric water pump just above the sensor and my intention was to mount and electric fan in front of the radiator / AC condensor. Is the proximity to the alternator an issue?

I have been considering ways to make the car look a little more current without violating the overall appearance of the car. I do like what you did with the grill. What did you use for grill material? Not that I would copy it, but, it may give me other ideas.

This is hopefully the last location configuration for my crank angle sensor. The inside bottom of the pulley was turned smooth to provide a true base for the code wheel mount. The back side of the pulley was drilled and counter sunk. The holes for the code wheel mount were drilled and tapped and mated to the pulley. Once the code wheel / pulley was bolted into place on the crank shaft, the variable reluctance sensor mount was fabricated. I have good clearances on all sides for the belts.

Excited and nervious, eh? Yeah, it can be intimidating. I agree with what the people above said, and, in addition, run thru the assembly proceedure as well. Read it first and then go thru it while looking at the circuit board assembly. That way you can spot mistakes and make sure the jumpers are as you want them. If something does not make sense, try to figure out why it is the way it is before you go changing it. It is a great learning tool and will help to take the mystery out of the system. It may also save you a great deal of troubleshooting time down the road. Don't rush. Think before you do. Good Luck

Is it possible to update an existing 78 A/C system from r12 to 134a refrigerant? What needs to be replaced?

I am trying to figure out if I have a vacuum leak. While monitoring the Megatune 2.25 I am watching the vacuum reading. It is usually in the 90 KPA area. How much vacuum can I expect to see while the engine is cranking? How much is normal during idle?

Here is a link with easytherm calibration values for the 280z coolant sensor: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123905

This morning I went down a got a new battery and some fresh gas. After about 30 seconds of sustained cranking it began to fire continuously. I let it run for about 20 seconds and shut it off. I have no coolant in the block so I had to keep the run time short. I have pulled the head and am in the process of replacing it with one that breaths a whole lot better. I am using code V 2.88 on my MSII V3 board. I have a Ford EDIS-6 CAS system and a Mopar spark coil. I have a WB O2 sensor in the collector of my 6-2-1 exhaust. The intake is a custom built 6 butterfly manifold.

I had my girlfriend crank the car while I looked a the firing with a timing light. The car fired at about 11 degrees before tdc. Isn't that about where it should be? I will look at my cranking pulse with when I get home tonight. What would you recommend for the PW? Last night I cranked the engine for about 15 seconds. It fired like clockwork about every 3 to 5 seconds for about 2 revolutions and then died. I guess I will need to find an oscilloscope to get much further than just tweaking settings. I am using code V 2.88 on my MSII V3 board. I have a Ford EDIS-6 CAS system and a Mopar spark coil. I have a WB O2 sensor in the collector of my 6-2-1 exhaust. The intake is a custom built 6 butterfly manifold. The engine ran while using the EDIS system and stock intake/exhaust system. I am using the current limiting resistors with the stock 2.7 ohm green injectors. I have the flyback circuits installed on the V3 board.

The engine will fire for about one or two revolutions while cranking then not fire. If I keep on cranking, about 5 seconds later it will fire for one or two revolutions. In other words in about ten continuous seconds of cranking it will fire at least twice. I am not sure what to make of it. Any ideas?

Hi Guys, I thought you might like to see some of the work I am doing on my engine. While I am not to the point where I obsess about things like latches, I may get there some day.

Clean? Ignore the other wires. I am still working on the configuration but using the Ford EDIS and a Mopar coil pack, I think this looks pretty clean.

OK. So much for over thinking and being too literal. I guess I must have missed that line in the instructions. It all worked very well when the setting was zero so I will set it back and go from there. Datman and Matt: Thank you very much.

While trying to configure my ms in Megatune 2.25p3 with code version 2.884 I run into a problem as soon as I select the Advanced Ignition Options and set 36 for the Trigger Wheel Teeth. On the Megatune screen the Engine Speed indicator goes to red and all the gages stop functioning. INJ1 and INJ2 Leds stop flashing as well. I have tried to make the change with the RPM under 300 and with the stimulator shut down. As soon as the stimulaor is powered up, I get the same issue. Does any body have any ideas?

best wishes on the j-o-b hunt Tony.

I ran down to the local pic yr part on Beach blvd and pick up a nice clean coil and a connector with about a foot of wire harness. So the red wire fires coils 3/6, the black wire fires coils 1/4, and the white wire fires coils 2/5 as they are labled on the coil pack. Got it. I'll make the change this weekend. Thanks a lot Paul. And no more cross postings.

Is there a wiring diagram that shows how the Mopar coil pack is attached to a Ford EDIS module? Am I missing the boat here? Do I need to start over with a complete Mopar system? Are coils B & C reversed like they are on the Ford coil pack?

BRAAP. Very nice. Very clean. You succeeded where I only came close. Now I need to start researching the configuration cause I know nothing about the Mopar coil packs and trigger mechanism. Back to the MS manuals once again. 30 minutes later. Is there a wiring diagram that shows how the Mopar coil pack is attached to a Ford EDIS module? Am I missing the boat here? Do I need to start over with a complete Mopar system? Are coils B & C reversed like they are on the Ford coil pack?

I have a Ford EDIS-6 ignition system for my L28 motor. I am looking for a set of RED spark plug wires that will fit both the EDIS-6 coil towers and will go to my spark plugs. I have attached some picks of the coil tower module.