Dan_Austin

Seems to be out of stock all over the place and one I found on ebay is priced just silly.

I gave up and drilled out the rivet holding the pin carrier to the arm. This left and end that is just larger than a standard bayonet fitting. A couple quick scuffs with some medium grit sandpaper and now it is a snug fit. I finally used a pair of hard drive mount screw just barely snugged down to act as a lock. I picked RainX lattitude 18" wipers, but the 17" might be a better fit.

In the spirit of HybridZ, I am being a bit different. I had planned to us a Microsquirt and EDIS. I had a question posted in the Microsquirt forums, and as a result I was offered a Sequencer. I know I could mount the resistors inside the Sequencer, and eventually that may happen, but for now it seems better put them in the wiring where the are easier to remove/replace and not risk the bit of gear that I was SO lucky to get in the first place.

Is this a hideously bad idea, or reasonable to build the pull-ups into the weatherpack connector? I arranged the connector- Ground Crank/Primary (1/4W-1KOhm) 12V+ (1/4W-1KOhm) Cam/Secondary I put it on the distributor side of the connector only due to not having the rest of the harness ready to work on yet, and I did not want to wait until the installation started to decide where to put the pull-up resistors.

Arrived and installed in the new distributor. Cut the original round connector off and waiting on a weatherpack kit to replace it. Matt- The write up instructions are great, but what about a microsquirt? Would a pull-up be required on the OPTOIN? Would it be better to use VR1 and VR2 with a pull-up on each input

I was planning to use a microsquirt for the size and ready to go nature. While asking about the new V3 features I was offered a chance evaluate and provide feedback on the sequencer. So next month the rebuilt motor goes in and start the MS journey. Oh, and I saw a similar bracket using aluminum tube on a BMW forum, but the bar stock supports I can claim credit for, and the dimensions.

My wife tells me the characters on the diff do not translate, so they are likely the name of a yard or dismantler in Japan. Glad the 5 speed is going to be put to good use.

That makes two of us. This was the last 'unobtainable' part, so I better get cracking on collecting remaining items for my swap...

LS2 truck coils. I picked up eight, with pigtails and OEM brackets off eBay for $113 shipped. I spent another $45 on aluminum tube and 1/8"x3/4" mild steel bar stock that I used to make the mounting brackets.

I was planning to use a Microsquirt with EDIS, but found the trigger wheel options disappointing. Then DIYAutotune announced the 280ZXT CAS wheel, so I sold the EDIS gear I had. I will be going full sequential, and plan the install late in January or early February.

I don't have access to a machine shop, so I thought I'd try for cheap and simple. I'm fairly pleased with the results. Materials (about $45) (2) 20" 1/4-28 all-thread (4) 1/4-28 nuts and washers (4 nylock nuts to be installed after final tweaks) (4) 4" 3/8 OD .49 wall T6061 aluminum tube (4) 3.75" 3/8 OD .49 wall T6061 aluminum tube (4) 3.55" 3/8 OD .49 wall T6061 aluminum tube (2) 4" x 3/4" x 1/8" mild steel bar (1) 6" x 3/4" x 1/8" mild steel bar The coils are spaced apart with the tube using the pattern 4" - 3.75" - 3.55" - 3.75" - 4" The end brackets were fairly simple, a 90 degree bend 1" from one end, then a 90 degree twist about 1.5" from the other end. I twisted the brackets in opposite directions and mounted them such that the brackets would pull against each other. I then drilled 1/4" holes 1/2" from both ends. The short ends had their corners rounded off using a bench grinder to fit in the valve cover hold down pocket. (sorry I did not get a good picture of these) The upper middle bracket was eyeballed, and has loop on one end formed with a vise and pliers, and a 15 degree or so bend 1" from the other end to provide a slight lift to the outside aluminum rail. About 90 minutes worth of puttering to make and adjust the brackets. Once the coil rails were tightened the whole structure became very stiff, and trying to twist or flex the setup just moves the whole motor. I still need to trim the all-thread and replace the standard nuts with some nylock nuts.

Any eta on these? Checking the DIY website daily is making me feel like a stalker...

I cannot locate my eBay records, but I think I bought a stage1 or stage 2 package kit. I used everything but the throw-out bearing, which did not fit over the input shaft. The disk was the same spline, so no issues there. Since you planning to put it behind a turbo, I'd suggest that you need to have a pretty stout pressure plate and/or a more aggressive disc.

I've got a lightened KA24 flywheel on a tired NA 280Z. It is holding up well, and the motor is much more responsive. This was an eBay package deal, and the clutch was not anything special.

Nicely done. The angle of picture may be tricking me, but that appears to be a 180 6" radius cut in half. If that's the case, I am a whole lot less nervous about that part of my project.

Borini63- Let me see if zentech has what I need. Zentech- PM is on it's way

Mine fell off a few weeks back and even though I saw it tumbling it the street, I was not able to find it after I turned around. I'm planning a swap later in the year, but I need to pass SMOG check and the missing cover is too obvious for the techs to overlook. The salavage yards in the area are fully picked over otherwise I would buy one.

I thought I grabbed a photo of the exhaust inlet, but I didn't. It is a 4 bolt retangular, but with a split (sign of a twin scroll?) The only markings that seemed significant is on the exhaust housing, either 6060 or 0909, but google did not indicate that they mean anything.

These were part of a bundle purchase for an abandoned swap. The seller lost the paperwork, so I have no idea what I have. I was going to put them in the parts for sale section, mostly due to not wanting to deal with the external wastegate, but the more I look at the turbo, the more I think I want to try to use it. Easlity measured dimensions- Compressor inlet - 4" Compressor outlet - 2.5" Exhaust 2.5" V-Band The wastegate is a four bolt design, with no obvious manufacturer name. Even if I keep the turbo, the wastegate will be put up for sale, provided I can figure out what it might be worth. Please resize images to 1024 x 768 MAX

Trying to stick to the rules. I donated today and posted the extras in the for sale forum. TurboHLS30 you get first crack at the ECU/Harnesses if your still interested.

I've been watching the Megasquirt development for a few years now, and the projects listed here at HybridZ. I have been a bit surprised that the microsquirt has not popped up even once as part of any of the installs. The V3 revision of the hardware expected this summer is supposed to bring full weather proofing to that table, and a slight reduction in size. It looks like it would fit nicely on the back side of the fusible link bracket, where my original voltage regulator was, with the option to mount an EDIS module on the other side of the same bracket. I know this is a group of twiddlers, and perhaps the Microsquirt is too limiting in the long run, but I wonder how many folks here have started with an MS2 and an EDIS setup then later decided to move to COP with sequential (which appears to be the major option I would be giving up if I went this route)?

I picked everything up last Thursday just before my wife dragged me to Yosemite. I had just enough time to unload the truck and do a quick inventory. I gave $1800 for the rebuilt motor and all the goodies. I forgot about the new Fidanze flywheel that is supposed to be hidding under the bell housing. I also was wrong about the BOV, as it is a new external wastegate and not a BOV. I plan to check the specs on the turbo, but the paperwork is MIA, so now I need do some extra leg work. In th mean time I am scouring the turbo and exhaust sections to figure out how I can handle the intercooler and exhaust facets of the swap. With the tools/resources at my disposal those tasks concern me far more than the MS.

I have a set of what look to be 14" Panasport knock-offs, and new tires were the first 'project' after purchase, so rubber is covered. I've replaced most sensors, and noted the connectors have aged/fatigued to the point of being brittle. They work now, but I'm concerned a toad burp will render them dust. As the fate's would have it, soon after I posted I saw a CL ad for a rebuilt 82 L28ET. It was over budget, but I figured if properly rebuilt I could 'negotiate' to extend my birthday allowance. Well, the motor is not only super clean, it is still on the machine shop pallet. The seller is motivated and is including 5 intake manifolds, including a shaved/powercoated, non-webbed unit with a port matched 240SX TB, new chinese turbo, new BOV, two harnesses, two ecus, spare radiator, three Turbo valve covers (one polished), a 82 NA wide ratio 5 speed and buckets of misc small parts. Needless to say the budget extension was quickly approved and the deal struck. I'll soon be putting the bits I don't need up for sale and use that to fund the MS, and as suggested more than once, I'll put a decent set of pads/shoes and maybe some braided lines on while I am at it. Thanks for the feedback, and feel free to keep it coming. I have at least six weeks until I start the swap and can incorporate any others good ideas into the plan.

I knew I left something out. The car is a 76, it is fuel injected, and that system does the basics, but showing its age. Since I bought it I've replaced all the bushings with poly, put in new springs and struts at all four corners, new u-joints in the half-shafts, and replaced the four speed with a wide ratio ZX five speed. I have a set of Starion/Conquest hubs to use in the 5-lug conversion, and I see it as a package deal. The brake upgrade itself is not even close to $1500, but the new wheels and tires close the gap pretty quick. The Starion hubs add a bit of offset, and with a 2005 explorer rotor and the Wilwood radials, everything lines up with no major machining. I have not figured out how I want to handle the rear yet, and I think that should be part of the project. I do want to handle the 5-lug and brakes at the same time, to avoid doing part of the project twice. This is my daily driver, and most of the 'little' stuff has been handled. I have had a few minor issues with the EFI, and all trace back to the age of the connectors and sensors. This is helping push the MS to the head of the pack. I've been watching ebay, craigslist, the for sale forums here, for the last three weeks and so far I have not see a 'cheap L28et' locally. I did find a rebuilt engine, putting the price a bit high, and the build quality is unknown. I appreciate the feedback and will continue to mull it over.

So each year we pick an amount we both can spend on anything we want for our birthday. This year I have $1500, and for that amount I can- A. Convert the front end to a 5-lug setup, with Wilwood radial calipers, new lines and the required new wheels. B. Megasquirt, and some interior bits C. Turbo swap Option A leaves me with the an ugly/odd combo of 17" front wheels and 14" rear. The wheels I like have also been discontinued, so I'd have to pick another style. The asthetics of this project have me leaning away from choosing it. Option B sounds fun, but on a tired NA L28, maybe not really worth the effort. Option C combined with B would be the clear winner, but that depends on finding a decent L28ET for a decent price. I don't have storage, so I cannot decide on option A and wait for next year to also do the back half. And these funds have a tendency to be re-absorbed into the household budget if not used, so I need to pick a project quick. I guess I should also say that the car is currently mechanically sound, using just a bit of oil, and the brakes are also in good shape, so all of these options are just that, optional. Anyone care to chime in on the pros/cons of each?