Dan_Austin

In the combo switch the are two 4mm buttons that have a 3mm round spring pockets. These tend to get brittle or melt. I thought about taking mold and doing some plastic casting, but printing might work well.

Beautiful. The 'V C Section 4000.1' is the info I needed. Now to call a few STAR shops and see if they can look that section up and confirm they understand it. My google was not so weak as to miss the SMOG FAQ, but it did not lead to this section.

When SB 1224 was shot down I took solace in the news that the state had a rule in place permitting a sniffer only test for cars with classic insurance. That solace dissipated quickly today as shop after shop and tech after tech told that there is no such policy/rule. I figured it would be a simple matter of looking up the reg so I could then have a shop confirm it, but so far have not been able to locate more than excerpts of the rule without citation. So it would be great if anyone knows of a shop actually familiar with the rules, or if anyone is aware of the exact regulation that includes the exemption.

I am finding 96A was the stock and the part number I have is for a World Power System 7973N, which is listed as a 96A unit ($100 on ebay right now). If you do not have access to a local rebuilder who can hot rod the unit a bit (105A was a standard output available in the CS130), then you'd have to settle for a giving up a few amps. Which is one of the reasons to check the build sheets so you make sure you get one that exceeds the stock rating.

A couple more suggestions: - Find an old school starter/alternator rebuilder in your area. The quality of their work will be far better that the typical parts store reman. - Ask the build shop their opinion on the alternators that fit. The shop I went to was not a fan of the Hitachi/Nissan units in the Maxima, saying they were sensitive to heat and had to be rebuilt more often. They were selling both alternators for the same price, so I doubt there was enough margin difference to justify feeding me a line of BS. - If they have more than one unit available, check the build test sheet that should be in the box. My 105A unit produced 117A @3000 RPM. By comparison the 70A turbo parts store alternator it replaced was tested at 62A peak, so again quality matters.

That turnbuckle would work and looks snazzy, or you can spend $10 bucks are a local hardware store for a turnbuckle and a couple washers. Check out my link above.. I bought my CS130 from a local rebuilder and had her do the swap. She took it off an old 10si or 12si core, so no part numbers. NewZed is correct that you need to use an impact to remove and install the nut. I've seen it done with the pulley held in a set of soft-faced vice jars, I've also seen it done by a large fellow using an impact wrench, a rag and holding the cooling fan with his hand, but I don't recommend it.

The stock bracket has two slight bends to meet the face of the top alternator mount. The CS130 has a thicker lug face, so you need a flat bracket. The turnbuckle works out well and makes adjustments a whole lot easier. You could also shave 2~3mm off the alternator lug, but then replacements would need the same mod. Use the GM pulley. Any decent rebuilder can swap it, and some auto parts stores will still swap them. The standard GM is slightly smaller than the Nissan if I recall and there are even smaller GM pulleys available. If you really want to use the Nissan pulley you would need to drill it to fit the CS shaft. The threads on installing the larger CS alternators cover that process. I have photos of my install here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110175-super-easy-cs130-install/?view=findpost&p=1029924

Are you opposed to cutting wiring to put a different alternator plug on? If not you can install a dual foot 105A CS130 from 1990 Dodge Monaco. It also needs a pulley swap and a modified upper mount (BFH and anvil, or turnbuckle from a hardware store). With the standard GM alternator pulley and undersized pulley on a powersport damper I have 50 amps at 800 engine RPM. With either the small GM pulley or the stock damper you should be able to get that output at 700 rpm.

You said no change when you pulled the leads of injectors 4-6, which implies there was a change on 1-3. With the info provided, I'd guess pulling 1-3 improved the situation, and if each one had the same impact, I would be looking at the dropping resistors and wire harness between them and the injectors looking for a short to ground. If only one made any difference then I'd check that injector to see if it was stuck open.

It sounds like you have this covered. I went through this two years ago and bought the new one figuring if the original lasted 35 years the new one was worth it. Last year I did the hybridz thing and now the relay sits in a drawer. If z240 is not able to help drop me a PM.

I have a couple that I don't need, and don't anything in trade. PM me if you still need one.

I am sure it is a fine and dandy tool. I used a business card with a small Phillips screwdriver poked through it and a carpenters tape measure. I rested the screwdriver in the old MC, slide the card up to the end of the MC, grasped the shaft(no pun intended) so the card was not deformed and could not move and recorded the length from the card to the tip of the screwdriver, repeat on the new MC and being a cheap bastard, re-use the business card to be a straight edge to measure the pushrod protrusion from the booster. My 76 needed a 1/8" adjustment (3mm), which I am sure I saw earlier in this thread, so I was comfortable with accuracy tools available to me.

Your fuel pressure looks high at idle. Have you confirmed the manifold vacuum line is connected to the regulator and that the pressure changes with engine speed/load? I have to run out, so I cannot check the FSM, but if I recall correctly, 36 PSI is correct, but at WOT/no vacuum/no boost. Based on what I think you should be seeing for vacuum, I would expect reading between 22 and 26, and since the relationship between flow and fuel pressure is not linear, the fact you have close to 50% too much pressure would lead to between 5 and 15% too much fuel at idle.

I replaced recently melted combo switch parking light sliding shoe with a nipple off a RainBird irrigation button. The nipple shaft was a perfect 4mm diameter to sit in the shoe pocket, and the barb was just a bit too tall, but easily trimmed to the right height. I even went as far as to use a 7/64" drill to open up the inside of the nipple to accommodate the tensioning spring. The switch is a little stiff, but far better than no lights on a daily driver. If this 'fix' does not hold I have found RC hobby shops carry 4mm polycarbonate rod that I could chop up to make new shoes.

I have not done it, but yes you are supposed to me able to use move the .dash files customized in TunerStudio to a ShadowDash device. As for the Oil Pressure and Fuel gauges, I was thinking about adding the extra inputs to my harness and figuring out the sensor calibration.

If the tablet you use has GPS you get speed without VSS. I was staring at the oil pressure and fuel gauge yesterday thinking about how to get them into ShadowDash, and wondering if the new Parrot 2Din andoid head unit could be squeezed into the stock spot if I ditched the warning lamps below the stereo. The neat feature about the Parrot is that it is very shallow, only about 2 inches. As for running apps in ShadowDash I was thinking it would be sweet in it could be made into a live wallpaper, so it would start with the device and be easy to get back to.

With the drum brakes I was using most of the parking brake handle range. With the SMM I am no more than three clicks up, and that is after loosening the adjustment almost to the limit under the car. With the car on a hill and the brake set I can move the tranny in and out of gear without the clutch (engine off obviously), there is no slop or slip at all. I only have just over a week and 300 miles on the setup, but I am very impressed with the parking brake.

I have a distributor and the transistor control module for a 76 in San Jose, CA

Full brake system upgrade. AZC 12.2" with Wilwood four piston 1.62" calipers up front, Silvermine Motors stage 4 in the rear and a WIlwood 1" master cylinder to push fluid. I threw in new front wheel bearings while I was there. She's not much to look at, but there is no rust, the suspension & all bushings were refreshed three years back, a rebuilt L28ET this year with a Megasquirt sequencer. Now that the brakes are done, body work and paint can finally be considered.

The collar is primarily flywheel dependent. Using too long a collar will cause a problem exactly like you are having. Using it like you have it will lead to early parts failure.

I agree with the pre-assembled unit, but want to suggest that the turbo dizzy with the DIYAutotune replacement CAS wheel is super simple to wire up and very, very reliable.

I have about a 2.75" pulley on the alternatoer and the Powerforce damper which is supposed to be about a 6" pulley. I have slight dimming with th idle at 750 RPM, but none at 900 RPM. A stock damper or a 2" alternator pulley would help in my case. I did initially have belt slipage that hurt the idle performance, and once tightened past the point that I thought was too tight idle output was very good.

The MSD and EDIS are not likely to play well together, and largely pointless, as some (most?) EDIS modules appear to have built-in multispark functionality. I won't say it cannot be done, but it would not be a simple splice in wiring job. The MS2 and MSD with a single coil/dizzy setup would be fine. If you do use the gift MSD, it would be a good idea to wire it up with the MS to give you control of your ignition timing, If you go the EDIS route make sure to find another visible project to use the thoughtful MSD gift on.

The early 90s Maxima has a 90 amp that is a physical bolt in that needs a pulley swap and minor wiring mods. I checked with a local rebuilder to get one that was not rebuilt to parts bin standards, and they recommended a CS130 from and 89-94 Dodge Monaco (which appears a rebadged Renault). It also is a physical bolt-in with a pulley swap and minor rewiring. It is rated at 105amp and can be reconfigured up to 140amp reliably. I did not need much more that the 60 amp unit I was replacing, so I went with the 105, and according to its test sheet it was actually a bit hot at 117amp. If you can handle the wiring to convert from external to internal regulation, you can handle the Maxima or this CS130 swap.

Thanks Morbias. 18Racing/Wheelbay told me to check back next month for the 17X8.5 -10, which does not sound too bad since the +4 in hyperblack is also out of stock and it supposed to be in the same shipment. I wonder if a group buy might be worth trying to put together...