Jesse OBrien

I feel dumb now. I had always known that you were supposed to ground the engine to the chassis, but had never even considered WHY. This makes sense, and the world of engineering seems just a little bit smaller now.

I'd have to find a z31 being parted out that's in reasonable condition at a reasonable price. ... I think I could buy a whole megasquirt kit for the same price, and I'd REALLY rather have megasquirt.

Well, the turbo I had been waiting on still hasn't arrived. I've been tearing apart the 280zx donor car in my car-time, and have been sick for the past week, so I don't have a very worthwhile update. I did slap a new air dam on the front though, and have started making the template for the engine bay belly pan. It looks like I'm going to make a 3-piece pan similar to the 2-piece zr8ed made here: ZR8ED Two Piece Belly pan project - HybridZ It might end up being a 2-piece, for simplicity of manufacturing. Hopefully, it'll be act as a support for the air dam as well, but I may add a bracket to attach it to the grille mount bracket. Primary concerns are making sure I can attach/detach it from under the car, cutting an access hole for the oil pan bolt, and making sure I have complete clearance for the wheels. Ideally, I'd like to integrate a brake venting system to pull air from under the car, but I'm not sure my physics skills are quite up to that task. I believe I'm going to keep the front bumper and straighten it a bit using c-clamps and 2x6's. The air dam looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself, I just need to drill some holes to mount the directionals under the bumper. I finally have my compressor up and working now, and plan to make FULL use of it throughout the next week or so. I have a die grinder hooked up and ready to go to replace the piece of crap tool called a roto-zip that the Home Depot 'tool guy' talked me into buying. If you ever intend to do ANYTHING with ANY metal, a roto-zip is a terrible idea. Don't buy one. Even if you can't get a compressor and air tools, get an angle grinder instead. Currently awaiting delivery: 5speed tranny (unknown gearing) t3/t4 hybrid turbo another t3/t4 hybrid turbo (just in case... they sell pretty well if I don't need the spare) intake mani w/ a 60mm throttle body (hopefully the throttle linkage works nicely 20lb media blaster manual bearing-style boost controller 8 450cc DSM injectors (I have yet to see if I can make a way to fit them in, but I doubt it'll be any worse than the stock configuration) Once the 280zx donor is out of the garage, I'll be able to get my s30 up on jackstands and get it running, complete with brakes and everything. Woohoo! Anybody have any experience running the 450cc blue-top DSM injectors on an l28et? I'd prefer to avoid having to dive into megasquirt just yet, that's the kind of thing I'd rather save as a winter project.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the factory location is on the starter motor, not the transmission. I'm not sure what (if any) advantage this offers, I'm pretty sure all you're doing is providing a strong ground, and the bolt you're using is the crucial part of that. Here's where I have mine, if it helps at all:

Jag rear ends with inboard brakes are proven rear ends as well, but it's a fair amount of work to install. The r230 should be perfect. As far as I know, the Datsun transmissions don't have any aftermarket gear options, but any CNC machine shop could make whatever ratios you want if you'll do the math on exactly what sizes you need. You may also want to consider the 350z/370z 6spd. Again, lots of work but it's perfect for long cruises.

L-series transmissions aren't known for their burliness. Even the Borg-Warner t-5 that came on the turbo zx's aren't anything to write home about. I'm not sure what your power goals are, but drivetrain issues start around 300ft/lbs and only get worse from there. On a ~3l turbodiesel, it sounds like you're going to be driving a torque monster. That being said, MY recommendation requires a lot of work. It involves taking a KA24/z31-non-turbo transmission, making mounts, shortening the driveshaft, and redrilling the bellhousing. From what I've heard though, that's a tranny that'll mate to an l-series (with work) and hold up to relatively serious power. No first-hand experience though. Also, with that kind of power, you might as well use both rear wheels, so I'd go with an LSD. I assume this is a straight-line car?

Hey, happens to the best of us. Whatever you end up going with, be sure to post your results (with pictures) when you're done! I haven't decided upon what rear I'm putting in my s30 yet.

Good place to start: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512&highlight=q45 Of particular interest: R230 Short nose, Armada, Large 6 Bolt ouput shafts (bigger than 300ZXTT) Ratios 2.946, 3.13 No LSD

I'll have to make a serviceable list, but you seem to have a pretty good list started. I have a nice little collection of 4-1/2" wheels here, from flapper to cutoff to grinder, but no wire brush wheels. I could really go for a die grinder too, since I have a compressor it seems to make a lot of sense. I just need to get that damned quick-release adapter that works with this compressor. I have a dremel available here, but haven't had a chance to buy wheels yet. I'll take care of that.

I used to go there all the time when I was in Vallejo. Now I'm in Oakland. No Harbor Freight anywhere nearby, as far as I can tell. Also, I'm doing all this work so I can get my one vehicle on the road. That means no long trips to pick up tools/supplies/etc. If you end up heading to Oakland, or even the meet on the 8th, want to stop by HF for me and pick up some supplies? I can paypal or just pay you back when we meet, and it'd be a HUGE help for me.

Oh oh, we're just talking the center console, right. I was thinking the dash. I got rid of that center console a long time ago, so I'm going to count myself out of this one.

I really hope I get better than 15mpg, and I think it's a reasonable estimate since I'm going EFI and the car is pretty well lightened. The transmission isn't a t5, the t5 requires a custom driveshaft and really isn't all that much stronger than the Nissan 5spd. Also, I should be able to find a Nissan 5spd for about 1/2 the price, assuming both are in good condition. I already have the electric fan I'll be running, off an LS1. I think I posted a picture here somewhere (maybe). I recently found myself in a position to have some aluminum pieces CNC'd, and may end up installing this R200 rear end, but that means I'll lose the very long ~3.3 rear end for a ~3.9 rear end. Higher highway RPM = lower gas mileage, so the ~3.3 is about as good as I'm going to get. I might just make the mounts for an R230 and find a Q45 in a junkyard on the East Coast so I can basically toss it in with some new CV axles. I've started on aero, and have the front air dam ready to be mounted (just zip ties holding it on for right now). I'm also planning to bend up some steel to hold it steady in the middle. I don't want that thing flopping around while I'm on the freeway. I want to make a belly pan to keep the bottom flat and sealed 'till the back of the transmission, and I'm planning to block off most of the front end. Anybody have measurements for theirs pre-made? I'm not sure I have a piece of cardboard big enough to be able to make a template. Lastly, I wasn't planning on using the front bumper, but I decided that it'd look pretty mean if I bend it back to shape and paint it flat black, so that's just what I'll do. I may even allow the rear bumper to remain on there as well. Here's what the air dam/bumper look like presently. Some bending still required.

There are a few differences in holes and mounting locations. Will this be using the steel rear supports? Exactly what would I be getting for my $190? I'm looking at this from a weight savings perspective, not a cosmetic perspective. Is there an estimation of final weight? Will it be comparable to an aluminum sheetmetal dash?

I don't have a Q-45 diff though, nor do I have CV axles. From what I've read, the Q-45 swap is fairly intensive and won't happen by Aug 1st for me (when I want to begin shakedown for my cross-country drive).

I just visited a good friend's father's shop down the street from me, and was surprised to find that it's actually a CNC shop that has a few machines running most of the time. While we were there hanging out for a bit, he walked me through how the machines work and the basics of what's required for them. Now obviously, my head is filled with parts that I could be designing in AutoCad right now and having made there, but since I'm on a tight time budget out here, what would you guys suggest as best bang for the buck out of an aluminum machine shop? Here's what I've thought of so far: 5spd short-throw rally-style shifter (tall shifter with a raised fulcrum point, the shift knob sits level with the bottom of the steering wheel) Control Arms. I may not do these, since I'm not comfortable enough with my physics knowledge, and I'm thinking it'd take a few rounds of testing before I had a solid, trustworthy product. I'd really love to do these though, so if anybody has some plans/calculations I could go off of, I'd really appreciate them. Pedals. They're cheap enough online that I'm really not too worried about it, but it'd be a nice fun project. Shift knob. Having a custom knob with a Z on the top, or maybe something a little more personal like my signature on it would be pretty awesome. R200 mounts. I have an r200 sitting in my garage right now along with a pair of 280z axles coming in, so I guess it'd be worthwhile to make some mounts for it. Again, I'd really need some plans/measurements if anybody has something to offer. Camber plates. Do people make these out of aluminum, or just steel? I've always wondered about that. Something else. Boost controller? Steering knuckles? Fuel pump mount? Power steering block-off plate? Horn button? HBZ aluminum logos to replace the Datsun/240z ones? Center caps? You tell me! I'm honestly not very interested in cosmetic improvements. I realize that replacing suspension parts with aluminum will reduce weight in the most crucial areas, and the sexiest cars I've seen on the street weren't the sexiest because they had fancy seats/gauges/carbon-fiber/etc. They were sexy because they were light on their feet, were very stable under all conditions, and a lot of thought and effort had gone into them. I'm trying to take advantage of this unique experience to get a little closer to that goal. Also, seeing suspension like this on a daily driver is just amazing. I want to do something that isn't ostenatious but that I can show off to any new car buddies and have them go "ooh" and "aah" about it. Help me decide what the best way to spend my very limited window of time with this shop.

I cleaned it up a bit with a file (not as much as I would have wanted, but I'll get to that). I'd like to hit it with a belt sander if I can get ahold of one in due time. I also sprayed it with a bit of matte black, and made a gasket for it out of the rubber seat hardware covers. Here's a picture of the finished product, for anyone who might be interested: (block-off) switch panel: Thanks for all the great feedback, guys!

I've started the gear list here: http://docs.google.com/View?id=dhchmjdr_753k29tfc8 Any input would be greatly appreciated.

That actually looks great! I'm ... really looking forward... to getting under my car ... and seeing what the frame rails look like. *cringe*

Didn't you hear? Fusible links blow. Get a REAL fuse box.

Atreyu - Our Sick Story (Thus Far) Lamb of God - Omerta Kajara - She Moves (always reminds me of the Isuzu Gemini commercial) Dispatch - The General

I have 3 4spds that I could let go cheap, with a spare clutch slave cylinder and a pedal set and master cylinder out of a 280zx (to use the master cylinder, you need to use the pedals from the zx). Shoot me a PM if you're interested, and let me know where in Cali you are.

Are you driving back through the San Francisco area? If so, I'd be happy to be a pit stop for you. I could even roll the ZX out of the garage if you need to get a little work done. PM me if you're headed this way again. Personally, I've been out here for almost two years and can't wait for my drive back to the East Coast. I'd like to compare long-trip notes with you as well.

I've been doing a bit of research on where to go, and the time has come to start mapping out where I'm going and figure out where I'll be staying along the way. The most basic layout of the trip is BEJ: 1st Leg: CA to WA Since I'm headed from San Francisco to Massachusetts and there shouldn't be too much snow on the roads in Aug/Sept, I'm going to take the Northern route. I'm stopping by to visit a friend in Seattle, so the plan is to take the Pacific Coast Highway up there. It's a long drive, around 16 hours of actual drive time, but since it's the very first leg of the trip I'll be excited and well-rested (one would hope). I should be able to do this in a 24-hour stretch, napping at one of the rest stops on the way. I really love the PCH, and am looking forward to this part of the trip quite a lot. I want to have my webcam set up with a shock mount so I can record it (I'll be mounting it to the roll bar, between the seats; you should be able to see inside the cabin and the road). I'd like to stop by Portland briefly, just to see what it's like. Assuming I get all the way to Seattle without any mechanical issues, I'll go over the car once more to tighten down any bolts that may have loosened and check any leaks that have uncovered themselves. Here are some awesome notes I found: http://www.drivecrosscountry.net/RouteB1.html 2nd Leg: WA to NY This is the long one. 48 hours of driving (or so). I don't know where I'll be stopping along the way, but I'll most likely check into some hostels. They're cheap and offer opportunities to meet interesting people along the way. If I have time, I want to see Mt St Helens. I'll be driving through the Rockies as well, a first for me. I think I'll really enjoy it though, I love mountain driving, and really miss proper lush forests. It looks like taking i-94 is my best bet across, it looks more interesting and less grassland-ish than i-80. I'll probably stop by to visit a few friends in Michigan, but the space between is all brand new country to me. A bit more info on this leg: http://www.drivecrosscountry.net/RouteE1.html 3rd Leg: NY to MA I'm back in my home country again for this leg. I haven't seen Niagra Falls though, so I'll probably take some time to go check it out. It's pretty straightforward to get to MA, but I'll probably stop by and visit my folks in NH for a few days. 90 is pretty much a straight shot, but there's normally a lot of traffic to deal with. Running the numbers I just signed up for premium AAA service ($109 for 4x200mile tows isn't a bad deal), so I'm allowed to have a few mechanical issues along the way. I have $1k squared away in a bank account, and by my estimations (assuming 15mpg) gas should end up around $700 (assuming I pay highway rates around $3.50/gallon, right now the US average is floating around $2.75). That leaves me with $300 to spend on food and lodging, and I'd ideally like to have another $1k put away for any parts/fluids/etc that I find myself in need of along the way. Pit Stops I've been considering what to do if the car does break down, and haven't come up with too much. If some hybridz'ers and ratsuner's are willing to be 'pit stop' locations, I'd be much appreciative and will do everything in my power to keep everyone up-to-date on what's happening with the trip. I'd hate to have to take my car in to a garage to be able to do something silly like adjust my clutch (or whatever comes up along the way). Master List I also started a master list of cross-country stuff to have in my car during the drive. I'll ship some of my parts, but I'll obviously need things like snacks, water, cellphone, spare cellphone, gps, maps, spare belts/gaskets/water-pump/etc, basic tool kit, AAA card, insurance, registration... the list goes on and on. I'm going to put it into a digital format and post it up for your review. Aero I've also put some thought into aero. I have a front air dam coming in, and I've been trying to come up with the best ways to reduce drag without generating lift. I'd like mileage, but if I wanted to fly back, I'd take a plane. I think I'm going to fab up an engine bay lower cover, add some vortex generators, and add a rear spoiler (BRE style, not a wing) to it. I've done a bunch of reading on vortex generators, but I'm still a bit confused as to their effect on mileage. It seems like they really help downforce if you have a rear wing, but what are the results with a spoiler, or without? When combined with a spoiler, do they generate excessive drag in addition to some downforce, or just kind of flop air around behind me? As far as the aero thing goes, I'm decidedly a noob: I've done a bunch of reading but have no practical experience. If anybody has any suggestions, diagrams, or blueprints for anything I should make, please let me know! Since I'm driving 4k miles in one go, an extra 5mpg will make a big difference. Going from 15mpg to 20mpg will save me 66 gallons, so it'd be worth ~$200 cash. I have a few good sources for sheet metal (alu and steel) and would love to get into some useful fabrication (not just block-off plates) so throw some ideas at me! Ductwork I'm also looking at cooling as a possible issue. I have an LS1 electronic fan, and may add a second one, and i have a 280zx radiator that I'll be installing before I take this thing out, but it seems like some ductwork would go a long way to improving cooling and keeping me from overheating in the desert we call California. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, radiator-related or otherwise. Thanks for ALL the input so far, you guys have been absolutely awesome. I'm really excited to make this drive, and would love to meet some of you along the way.

I have 3 4spd transmissions available to you, should you need them. I may even be able to drive one out to you (having a spare in the car wouldnt be a bad idea either). The only diagnostic you can really do is checking the oil levels, more than that and you'll have to pull and disassemble it.

I got lucky last night, and scheduled a DMV appointment for this morning at 9:30am. I was also lucky enough to get some time out of work to go down there. I showed up with a license plate and bill of sale on a car that hadn't been registered in 15 years, and crossed my fingers as I walked in the door. 20 minutes later, I had temp plates and legal permission to drive my car. I'm somewhat stunned. No title, nothing crazy. All I have to do is drive it to the DMV at some point in the next few months and let them verify the VINs (which are legitimate!). Not too shabby, a big two thumbs up for the sweet little lady behind the counter at the DMV.