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Jehannum

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Everything posted by Jehannum

  1. Put the right plugs in it. NGK PFR6b-11b. Throw the "iridium" crap out the window. If they're black, you're running rich, which is pretty normal for the Stillen program. Are you getting any codes? Are you in safety boost (is the boost gauge going up to about half way and no farther)? The Stillen ECU is about the same as any other "ECU" you buy (which is to say, a stock Nissan ECU with a socket soldered in to accept a reflashed chip). It won't boost beyond the stock Nissan levels without the addition of boost jets or a boost controller. Boost jets prevent the manifold pressure from opening the wastegates by putting a restriction in before the solenoids.
  2. That can't be the root cause, because if it were, then swapping a new old style (pre-'94) Z32 injector for the failure would solve the issue. It doesn't - the failure rate is still high. The only *long term* solution for Z32 injector failure is swapping to the new style injector (94+).
  3. Yeah, there's still a pretty significant lag time between when he dispatches an email and when someone's at the terminal. Another likely issue is spam filtering.
  4. Have you considered the lag time between Australia and California?
  5. Yeah, try SGP, or conceptzperformance.com. CZP is closer to Texas by far than Z1.
  6. CA hates JDM that never came to the states. The VG30DETTs that get front-clipped and shipped over are the same as the ones that got sold here, so CA won't have any heartburn.
  7. Well, one goes through the engine compartment to the drier, and one goes through the engine compartment to the passenger side front, where it hooks up with another line that comes up from the crossmember (from the compressor). Both of them hook up to the firewall connections to the evaporator. Teach a man to fiche, and he'll browse parts for himself.
  8. The two you need (I assume) are the ones that run through the engine bay. They are 92441-33P00, and 92451-33P01. You can still buy them through the dealer, for less than $70 total.
  9. No problem, boss. I wish I had known your trick about the Q45 turn signal harnesses beforehand. I just trimmed out the socket (in the smoked turn signal) to accept my old stock bulb base. On occasion, I get condensation inside the lens because my seals aren't all that perfect.
  10. Big Red, circa 2005: Big Red, post '99 JDM fascia install, next to Buttercup, my '71 240Z:
  11. This is what happens when you don't move the ambient air temp sensor... Sensor in the stock location (fascia already partially disconnected and moved forward): You can relocate it to anywhere in the airbox. I neglected to take a picture of my new location, but it's right up under the nose panel, in a threaded hole that used to hold the stock air filters and piping.
  12. From the fiche... For up to 7/73, the RH part is 80210-E4100, the LH part is 80211-E4100. For 8/73+, the RH part is 80210-N3400, the LH part is 80211-N3400. They still show as available from Nissan, so you should be able to get them new.
  13. I have plenty of pictures, but my gallery is blocked by my work firewall (damned chair force!) I disable my ABS for road course events (not that there is a plethora of good road courses in New Mexico, but hey, I'll take what I can get). Aside from brakes, it's your basic Z32 - 15PSI boost pressure, fancified exhaust, JWT intake, richened AFR tables, 365HP. The plenum is a lot easier to remove if you do the PCV reroute, eliminate the EGR, and delete the throttlebody coolant passages. All I have to do is unplug my PCV hoses (as they're now over top of the plenum into the valve covers), unplug my AICV, FICD, and warm-up solenoids, the coils, and the fuel rails, and it's off.
  14. I have a picture I can post when I get home from work. I had relocated mine, but the body shop moved it back.
  15. Erm, any multi-link suspension with rubber bushings will have deflection that results in changing toe. I'm somewhat curious as to the amount of toe. The only way you get around that is by putting sturdier bushings in. I'm told that the Energy set of urethane bushings does a pretty good job of that. If you want *no* toe deflection, I think your only option is a live axle. I think the biggest issue with the rear multi-link in the Z is the limits of the tire you can throw at it without extending past the fenders.
  16. The '99 JDM fascia is a ton better looking than the older NA/TT fascias. Did you relocate your ambient air temperature sensor? I can't tell by your pictures, but if you didn't, you'll have a nice big bump under the bumper support (over the radiator opening).
  17. I quite like my Z32. Of course, if I didn't, it wouldn't still be my Z32. The only serious weak spot I've noticed is the tendency to eat injectors. That was the second major repair I had to do to mine, after I bought it (2005). I have the plenum pull down to a 20 minute process now, though. Not enough of a hassle to make me wish that I had replaced it. As I understand it, the long plenum runners are only advantageous in a NA application, but it's relatively easy to work around the plenum (I mean, who's really going to be replacing head/valvecover gaskets every week?) with the dremel modifications to allow access to the fuel rail, so the effort of designing a replacement isn't all that worth it to me. The stock brakes provide a great feel for about the first 15 minutes of track time, but even with good pads, tend to fade pretty quickly afterwards. I have the Brembo 332mm kit, and even after 45 minutes of on-track time, I haven't found significant fade (stock ducting in place, Ford DOT 3 fluid). IMO, the Brembo and Stoptech kits are the only ways to go, as they've properly selected piston size to correspond with the increased leverage so as not to confuse the ABS computer (at least, according to Stoptech propaganda). I'm unwilling to gamble my own butt when none of the other kit bodgers have anything other than "well that doesn't matter" to offer regarding ABS operation.
  18. Why bother? If your radiator is bad, it's not like you have to throw it away and start with a new one. Recore for $75, and have more than adequate cooling at hand without forking over $400.
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