Jehannum

Since it's got AIV depicted, your FSM is for a '90-'92, FYI. Also, this one's free, and is probably the one you got from eBay.

Chris, none of those are for a '96 OBD-II car.

On a '96, that's probably the EGR solenoid. It's in a different location on '90-'95 cars, but that's the only thing I can think of on that side that would require one of those solenoids (since '96 had no AIV, and PRVR is on the driver's side).

If you don't mind shaving the keyway on the sensor, you can swap the CTS connector for one off of the Z31 fuel injector recall harness. They're sealed on the back, so no more corrosion issues after you replace it.

Have you bypassed the recall subharness? The connector on the harness side is not sealed, and will show heavy, heavy corrosion. I bypassed the subharness (spliced the new harness terminations into the main EFI harness), and had no more misfires. I also relocated the PTU into the footwell near the ECU, but that's probably a little beyond the scope of your current issue.

Those were the sensors for the ABS.

You've got two main points of failure that drive these speedos. The first is the VSS in the transmission. Since the odo and tach are still working, it's probably not that. The second is the gauge itself - old solder and stress will do a number on the physical interface between the tach and the driver board, so check those and repair as necessary. edit: and the input is most certainly *not* from the differential. It's from the tail shaft of the transmission.

I've only ever dealt with the 4 pin MAF, but the '93 NA is a strange bird. I bought an ECU from a yard that told me it was from a federal emissions, manual, turbo car, which turned out to be from a '93 California emissions, automatic, NA car. The ECU, on the inside, was like no other Z32 ECU I've ever seen. No 28 pin DIP chip to pull out, the layout of components was totally different.

EVC mounted in the dash I think it looks pretty cool.

All power and ground lines replaced, PTU relocated, WBO2 integrated, boost controller integrated, coil connectors rearranged, sensor connectors rearranged, and weatherpak connectors on VTC solenoids, O2 sensors, and TPS. Installed in the bay: Fuse block connected, MAF and boost solenoid routed: In the footwell (haven't wrapped the PTU yet, since I don't know how long it's going to be: Left to do: rejigger the vacuum setup to accommodate the boost controller, seal and refill the cooling system (drained to get the harness out), relocate the PTU itself into the footwell, mount the boost controller brain in the clock hole in the dash, reinstall the plenum and idle air lines, and start it.

Day 1: pulled the harness. I call my art project "What the hell is wrong with my 300ZX now?" Day 2: denuded the harness, removed safety boost solenoids, AIV, EGR, PRVR, and rerouted the PTU naked harness: Removed/rerouted Maybe tomorrow: R&R all power and ground lines

Something is wrong with the grounding in my wiring harness - I've got a good connection on pin 16 to the ECU from the ECCS harness trigger side, but it still won't energize the relay to allow the car to start. To get around it, I shorted the ECCS and IGN COIL relays to keep power on all the time (removed the relay and jumpered the switched output). This worked until 2 weeks ago, when the car exploded in a fit of electrical pique on the freeway. I bought a known good replacement ECU, and it's being socketed right now. So, I pulled the wiring harness. Not an easy task on a Z32, but it needed to be done. My tasks: 1) fix the control line issue that broke the EFI and ignition coil relay trigger signal 2) move the power transistor unit (the bank of transistors that fire the coils) into the footwell, from the cam belt cover. 3) remove the control lines and power lines I don't need: the PRVR solenoid - vacuum source that kicks on at warm start to prevent vapor lock the AIV solenoid (air source for the cats for cold performance) the EGR solenoid the boost cut solenoids (they haven't done anything since the turbo upgrade, since the wategate springs went from 7 to 12 PSI) 4) replace all the ground lines 5) replace the broken male/female pairs of connectors with nice new ones (probably GM weatherpaks): O2 sensor (3 wire) variable timing control solenoid (2 wire) TPS (3 wire) 6) replace the broken connectors that are male or female only (plug into a solenoid in the engine bay or somesuch) with good replacements IACV FICD (fast idle for AC) 7) re-route the ignition coil and injector lines so that they're less spidery, and easier to route through the middle of the plenum 8) integrate my wideband O2 sensors and boost controller harnesses into the main EFI harness.

I wouldn't machine the crank out of a Z32. They tend to break shortly after that.

That may be, but for thousands of stock Z32s, the oiling system seems to have worked out better than the wiring harness. Or are you just trying to hock another one of your oil pumps?

Check them by resistance. They should be 12ohms or thereabouts. Also, you can save quite a bit of money getting the Z1 silicone PCV set. I've got it on my Z32, and the quality and fit is top notch.

Check the PCVs.

Sure it's not your VTC sprocket? My DS sprocket is pretty noisy, at 85k miles, and 1800RPM is right about where it should be transitioning from high to low. If it's the lifters, you might try a hundred miles of ATF treatment.

Stock senders and gauges are pretty notoriously inaccurate, but oiling isn't really an issue on the VG, because of the reliability of the pump. My gauge usually stays between the first tick (which, I guess, is 30) and the third (which, I guess, is 90), on Mobil 1 10w30.

What does the ECU self diagnosis say? When you know that, you'll be able to fix the issue.

If you're going to bother with the exhaust manifolds, go with the MSPs. Those OBXs look like clones of the old SZ Inconel manifolds, and the MSPs outflow them.

Thanks!

They're not cheap to extract power from, though. I didn't do any kind of swap when my Z32tt blew up. I spent: $2500 in machine work and bottom end reassembly including: 1) Wiseco 88mm pistons (dry film lubed skirts and ceramic coated faces) 2) ARP hardware (rod, main, and head studs) 3) .020" overbore 4) New clevite 77 bearings 5) cleaned up heads (valve job, milled flat) 6) cleaned up oil pump (just a check for wear) $5000 in supporting equipment, including 1) MLS head gaskets 2) big SMICs 3) 740cc fuel injectors w/adapters 4) complete 120k mile timing belt kit (water pump, cam/crank seals, tensioners, idlers, idler studs, VTC springs, drive belts) 5) GT28R turbos (sold as the Z1 GT600R kit) 6) 5 bolt downpipes (since the turbine housings are 5 bolt instead of the stock T22 4 bolt) 7) replacement hoses (silicone in as many places as made sense) 8) new clutch, new hydraulics 9) Wideband O2 gauge (a must if you're not swapping to an aftermarket EMS) 10) Koyo radiator w/hard pipe instead of the giant floppy stocker 11) chrome hard pipes instead of the (deteriorated to the point of not holding air) stock rubber ones. 12) all the little **** you'll end up running out to NAPA for in the middle of the project (full gasket set, injector pigtails, various small pigtails, RTV, etc). ...and that's taking my own labor as a $0 addition. I'd say that if you can get out with a V8 for near $4k and you have no affinity for the VG, pull the trigger on that in a heartbeat. It's fine to think you're going to just swap the VG out of a front clip in, but there's too much that you can't do without pulling the motor, and a whole host of reliability issues with the VG that bite you in the ass when trying to make power (at least, > 300HP) on the stock turbos.

I'm rebuilding my 240Z after it got crunched last May. I'm nearing the end game here (just have to paint the engine bay and reinstall everything), and I just got my head back from the machine shop. Initially, it was just there to have the #1 exhaust stud extracted. I had them check the straightness too, and they shaved .008" off the bottom (there was a low spot between 3 and 4). Do I need to shim the cam towers? I know it's required for > .015", but I'm hard pressed to find any shims on the market <.010" in thickness. Probably an elementary question, but searching "cam tower shim" on this site comes up with people who are milling .040" off for compression reasons more than people like me who are quite happy with a stock L24.

Dunno if it'll help, but I had them out when I was rebuilding my VG, and this is about the only picture I've got of them without being surrounded by VG30 bits. http://moksha.homelinux.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=11480&g2_serialNumber=2 Wow, no dynamic images anymore? That kinda bites.

There are a few of us.