BusterZ

Thanks so far guys, I probably wouldn't have thought of the different size spacers, not atleast until I would have had to pull the motor again. (things usually seem more fun the second time) - but I'm running the S130 chassis. I should have been more clear (seems in '79 the Japanese didn't use the ZX designation like here in the states). The Failrlady had a 2.0L motor and the 280Z Fairlady had the 2.8L (like our ZX). Too late and my brain had shut down at 9:30. Transmission wise, I wanna 6 speed. Cant help but row them gears, even if it is with my left hand. Atleast the clutch is on the same side.

Before I get too far into this project I'm going to ask a question, (there is a first time for everything). Has any one ever done a small block Chevy swap into a right hand drive Z car ? My car is a 1979 Fairlady 280Z (2+2). Has stock 2.8L with 5 speed. Do any of you know if there any abnormal problems that the right hand drive configuration presents to the V-8 installation ? I've been deciding between building a turbo L28 or installing a sbc and am leaning toward the Chevy swap.

Yeah, break in on conventional motor oil. You need the wear to seat rings, etc. Synthetic base stocks are more stable and do not degrade nearly as quickley at higher temps. They also have less change in viscosity as the temperature changes (higher viscosity index, vi). Some newer motor oil base stocks are hydrotreated (saturated with hydrogen) to increase the vi which gives a more stable viscosity. I've run Mobil 1 in most all my engines (after break in) and have not seen increase in consumption or leakage. Syntec has a hydrotreated base stock. I use Castrol conventional motor oil, they use a very good additive package in their oil. Remember, auto manufactures want you to run the lower visc oils (5w 's) to get better fleet mile per gallon numbers (not intrested in engine life). I've never run below a 10w- oil and had no problems. PS I keep most vehicles atleast 10 years and usually well ovewr 150000 miles

Anybody got pic's of a car with these on ? Or maybe some installation pic's. I'm thimking on them for my '79 Fairlady.

Tilt front end looks good. I'd like that for my car too ('79 Fairlady 280Z) but I can't weld that well (yet).

I used POR15 on my 1980 Honda (yeah before i got enought $$ to get a Z and before Honda learned to paint) and coated many rusty spots. Part was left uncoated and the rest was top coated with white. I used the clear version. In a year of exposure the top coated parts were perfect. The uncoated had broken down due to UV exposure and all but disappeared. I also have the steel top to a tool chest painted with the clear (over painted lettering) and it is fine, but this has been kept inside out of weather and UV light all its life. My opinion, its good stuff as long as you coat it to protect from UV.

Some people will never learn, no matter how hard you try ! I vote that he's being one because he is one.

Hat, tee shirt, BEER GLASS , maybe jacket ??

Chem Eng, now Supt of production facility. Did process and project eng for 15 yrs.Mixed with Comp.Sci and AutoCad. But most of all, Fast CARS.

I've seen their work 2 times. One '71 'Cuda and one '76 Toyota Corolla (yep, thats Corolla wagon). Both were VERY nice. Each of these was $500. I've also looked for rhd dashes (there ain't none) for '79 Fairlady. My quote was $800 too. I'm gonna spend the $$ when the time comes.

readers digest version: bought '79 Fairlady 280z cheap, got a box o' parts with it. Box has different ECU's in it: 1) P/n A11-000-410 for L20 2) P/n A11-000-023 for L20MT (P/n's from stickers on the cases) will these work in L28E motor? these all were imported when the car was brought here from Japan by a Air Force friend.