calpoly-z

Well I have my front suspension off putting in new springs and as I was cleaning up the T/C rods for powder coating I noticed that one of them was slightly bent. It's not a big bend, but I was wondering how big a deal this is. Here is a pic: I have a feeling that this has been like this for awhile, and I'm wondering if I put it back on for now if will have any problems. Also when pulling these off I noticed that one of the plastic bushings (I had installed the MSA plastic/aluminum kits a long time ago) had a broken lip. I am planning on just replacing these with rubber or urethane bushings, but I thought it was interesting and something I should inform others about. I'm also pretty sure that this part is from the side with the bent T/C rod. I have no idea how long this has been like this, but I also don't remember any significant impact on that side either. Heres a pic of the broken piece and a good one There does not appear to be any abnormal tire wear, though I have a had a high speed vibration (70+ mph) that I have been battling for a while. Especially during decell when I let off the throttle. I will be trying to source a new rod if any one has one laying around that they would part with, but if this is not a huge deal using a slightly bent rod then I will just throw it back on while I try to find another. I'm waiting on the machine shop to finish my cylinder head so Ive got a week or so before the car will be drivable. I also need two of the large washers that cup the bushings if any one has extras. Suggestions? Ideas? Comments?

I feel y'all. I spent most of the summer painting my car. i finally finished a couple weeks ago and was able to take her out for a spin. Test drive went great. The next day I drove out to the golf course with a friend not even driving hard and the car overheats, blows the head gasket and warps the head. I got to drive my car for one frickin day looking pretty. Now the head is at the machine shop and who know how much this is going to cost me. Too damn much, that's for sure.

Let me know if you want those bumper ends powder coated instead. Much more durable than paint and I should be able to match your wheels pretty well.

I have first hand seen bad gas cause valves to stick. Granted this was in a tiny 2000w generator, but still it can happen. With this engine, sludge built up on the valve stem so much that it actually seized open in the valve guide. I knocked the valve out with a hammer, cleaned it up with emery cloth, put it back in and the motor was good to go. Now I highly doubt that this is the case here, but just wanted y'all to know that it could happen.

Its great school. Especially for engineering. I have 2 quarters left before I graduate with my ME degree. 5 years and counting... but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel

Joey and I got a clear in yesterday. Just haven't had a chance to use it yet. The door handles are going on my car, but after seeing how well the satin black came out I think I might recoat them with that. When coating the J-pipe we actually expected it to come out looking closer to the stock wrinkle coating. The pics don't do the coating justice, it really looks cool up close and has a nice sheen, though it will definitely be a pain to clean.

Thanks for the heads up Zeerari. I had no idea truck and pathfinder flywheels would bolt up too. Maybe I'll just try to find one of those and then buy a better clutch.

So this flywheel just ignores the other holes in the PP. I thought I remembered by buddies clutch having more than 6 bolts. I wonder if this could lead to any issues? Seems like Nissan added the extra bolts to the 240mm flywheel for reason. Zeerari - keep us updated on how this clutch performs with your turbo motor. How much boost will you be running?

The ad says these are for 2+2's so is this actually a 240mm flywheel and clutch? The pics in the ad look like it only has the 6 pressure plate bolts that the 225mm clutches have. Don't the 240mm PP have 9 bolts? I thought that's how many I counted on my buddies flywheel, but I could be off base here. I'd like to get a 240mm flywheel and clutch for my turbo motor. My stock 225mm clutch can't take the power anymore. This seems like a cheap way to get both and should hold me over for a while. But If I can find a decent 225mm clutch I may not bother. Anyone with experience want to chime in?

You can buy the same stuff that Lazeum is talking about from McMaster-Carr for about $25-30 a side. You need about 15 feet per side. I can't remember the part number off hand. I used this on my passenger side door and it works perfectly and looks great. I will be ordering it for the driver side door as soon as I finish painting the car. Edit: Part number is 1120A33 at http://www.mcmaster.com

I am a bit confused. Initially you state that you are leaning towards a dark green over the PO's yellow. Then you state that you are planning on using rattle can primer and satin black? Is that just for the engine bay? That is what I will assume to answer your questions. If you're going to rattle can it I highly doubt that it is worth it to strip the paint down to metal. I have used rattle cans plenty of times and I am rarely completely happy with how thing turn out. That being said I am not disagreeing with your choice of rattle cans for the engine bay. I rattle canned my engine bay about 5 or 6 years ago with a similar choice in paint. It looks ok now, but far from great. Now that I am actually painting my car for real, I did decided to leave the engine bay for now. I don't feel like pulling the engine yet again for something like paint when all I really want is to get my car back on the road with some color. That does not mean that I am happy with how the engine bay looks, but it's not too bad. Any way, to answer your question, if you are giving you car a legitimate paint job, then you should give the engine bay a legitimate one as well, especially since the engine is already out. That does not neccesarily mean that you need to sand down to bare metal. If the paint is not flaking off or bubbling up then just sand it down smooth and paint over. But if the rest of the car is getting a half-assed job then I wouldn't worry about things like stripping paint down to metal, especially if you are just going to rattle can it. Hopefully that makes sense. I am a few deep .

I'm looking at getting a set of headlights with the turn signals built in in order to save me the hassle of trying to figure out what to do for custom front turn signals. I have a 77 with an MSA type 2 body kit that is in the process of getting a paint job. I shaved the side marker lights and the front stock turn signal mounts are all tweaked up and no longer allow the grill and turn signals to bolt in correctly any more. What I'm curious is if anyone has any experience with these or similar lights. Here is an auction that shows what I'm considering. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-AUTOLOC-TRI-BAR-STREET-ROD-HEADLIGHTS-w-TURN-SIGNAL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34199QQihZ012QQitemZ220271631154QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I'm also planning on using smoked headlight covers and I'm worried that the turn signals wont show up very well through these. If anyone has any experience with these or ideas for custom turn signals please help me out. Thanks

I also ran the same cheap O-Rielly battery for over 5 years. So I highly doubt there is an overcharging issue. If you want to verify that you're fine, just use a multi meter across the battery posts when the motor is both off and running. when off voltage should be between 12-13 v and running/charging should be around 14.4v

Are these voltage readings from off the stock gauge? If so then you probably don't have a problem. My 77 has always read at around 16v with the motor is running, and this is with multiple alternators and even two different (stock) gauges. Mine also reads at about 12.5-13 or so volts when the car is off. I vaguely remember reading about this a couple years ago, and that its a non-issue.

All year L28ET came with P90 heads. Some 1983 L28ET came with P90a heads, which have hydraulic lifters instead of solid lifters. You really do need to search a little harder as I KNOW the info is out there and easily found. I would highly recommend checking out all the stickies in all the forums that are interesting to you. most of what you have asked can be found in these posts. It takes a little more time on your part, but it really is frustrating to see the same questions asked over and over again.

If I remember correctly MSA bought them from Pete Z at first. So I assume they are identical. At least in size and shape, if not quality. I got mine at a discount from Pete directly for documenting my install. search for Pete Z downpipe or something and you should find it. My old screen name was alecnet I think.

I have a set of these I've been waiting to install when I paint the car, but I was wondering how much do these dim the headlight output? I have H4s and have rewired the headlights with relays, but I'm still not comfortable with the light output. If these dim them any more then I may see if I can't get my hands on a clear set instead.

Wow. those pics are really old. I forgot how big those rust holes were.

I bought one years ago. Back when Pete Z was making and selling them. Here's a few pics of my install from back then. Mine is wrapped Stainless though. Not aluminized steel.

Pretty sure he's talking about his cast STEEL exhaust manifold. I agree it probably has been coated. I've tried painting the manifold before with high temp paint and it began flaking off in the first couple days.

I fought a similar problem for years in my 280z. Turned out there was supposed to be some rubber seal (I think this is the reaction disc jmortensen mentioned) on the back of the rod that pushes into the master cylinder. Turns out mine had fallen off and was in the bottom of the booster. I couldn't get it out and did not feel like pulling the booster at the time so i glued a piece of rubber gasket material to the back of the push rod. Brakes have worked great since then.

I've got very similar specs as you except I'm not intercooled yet, have the stock T3 and am running 338cc supra injectors. Otherwise I'm running the same code and have msd 6A controlling spark and the same exhaust sizes. Here's the .msq I'm running right now. The car runs great, but there are still a few starting issues that need to be worked out. Especially hot starts. This should be good to 8psi, but run at your own risk considering I'm not intercooled. Fuel pressure is stock as well Don't forget to set the Req'd fuel settings for your car, before attempting to run this Hope this helps 5-19.zip

I don't know what the quarter2 spreadsheet does, but I went ahead and attached my spreadsheet. It will probably be pretty confusing as there is a lot of data to be input and some of the abbreviations are a little strange. Feel free to ask me if you have any questions about something. Just to give credit where it is due, Cal Poly professor John Fabijanic designed the template, but all formulas were put in there by me so there may be some error, though I think I did it all right. Performance Workbook, Template.zip

I've got a spreadsheet from back in my ground vehicle dynamics class that would probably help you out with this. it takes hp and torque curves and gear ratios and final drive ratios along with loading (both aero and rolling resistance) to calculate power requirements at various speeds and rpm. It also plots out tractive effort and horsepower in each gear. It makes a lot of simplifications, but it also uses a lot of detail so I feel its pretty accurate. I don't know if I host this on hybridz or if I need some other hosting site. Otherwise I'll just email it to whoever wants it. oh and it also estimates time to speed so you can see how fast your car is based on traction available

I did it to my 280z. Search for custom center console and you should find the post I detailed what I did. I think there are some decent pics of it in the upgrade motor carpet thread as well as BSD mentioned.