calpoly-z

I've got a full set (2 actually) from a 77 if these are the same as the one's you need. PM me if you're interested.

I have a set from a 77. One side came out perfect, but the threads on one of them are a little messed up. There is still plenty of good thread for tightening the bolt down, but it will take an impact gun to get the nut threaded that far. Check out the link for an image. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d27/alecnet/280Z%20Parts%20Car/Misc%20Parts/DSCF0999.jpg Because of this damage I am only asking $45+shipping for these (less than half what a good set is worth). The companion flange and bearing spacer will be included as well. If you're interested let me know.

I've got one out of a 77 in great shape including most of the hoses and straps. It's in really good shape with no rust or dents so I can't let it go too cheap. How about $150 for everything plus shipping? I had to cut one of the hoses near the end to get it off when i pulled the tank, but the filler and most of the other vapor hoses are in great shape. The one I did I have to cut might still have enough slack to be usable though. If you're interested I'll send you some detailed photos of everything

What gets shaved can change depending on your particular application. You need to determine what you will need vacuum sources for. The big ones holes at the back of the manifold are for the vacuum line to the brake booster and usually a vacuum line that runs into the car to control the heater directional flaps. You will also need a vacuum line for your FPR and possibly the charcoal canister if you are planning on keeping this. The hole right next to the throttle body is where the cold start injector was mounted. Turbo cars don't use this, which is why some people block them off. There may be others that I'm missing, but YOU need to determine what will need a vacuum source and where on the manifold it pulls from. Below is how I did my manifold. Note that I'm running Megasquirt and have a 60mm TB. Also I'm not using a Charcoal canister. I also drilled and tapped the cold start injector hole for my air temp sensor. Also this is an N47 manifold that had EGR, but they are not that different. The thing you're calling a ventilator is a vacuum servo that is actuated when the A/C is turned on to raise the idle slightly. If you have no A/C then you don't need it. Even if you do have A/C you don't really need it.

I didn't notice too big of a difference when I put them them as far as light output is concerned. Granted I only had about 3 days of driving with them before my car got hit. Luckily I took pics.

Glad the ECU got to you. A thought on the clutch, though. If there really is only 100 miles on the clutch then you need to break it in. Especially if it's a stock organic type clutch. Unfortunately, you need to give it a few hundred miles before hitting the boost too hard. Let the clutch seat to the flywheel.

I had my buddies urethane airdam on my car when I got hit and unfortunately the driver's side turn signal took a hit a broke into a bunch of pieces. Now he's getting close to being on the road and needs his parts back. If anyone has an extra turn signal for that side that they are willing to part with, let me know what you want for it. Just to clarify I need the style that mounts under the headlight buckets, NOT in the grill. Thanks

I've got a complete short block from a 77. Cylinder head cracked and the guy ditched the car. It's got fairly high miles, but everything is there. Unfortunately it has dished pistions and an automatic trans. I think a buddy of mine has a decent 4 speed, and possibly clutch/flywheel, but I'd have to talk to him. I'd be willing to sell the whole block or part out the crank. I'm up in San Luis Obispo (about 4-5 hours north), but we might be able to work something out. Let me know if you're interested. Prices will be very reasonable. I've got to get rid of this stuff anyway.

I've got a tank from a 77 that should work for you. Tank is in great shape with no dents and no rust inside. I just drained it today and gas was nice and clean. I pulled it out it out too, and I'll get some more pics tomorrow. Heres a pic of the underside before I pulled it. $150 + shipping.

Pretty much just an appearance swap. I think i read here somewhere that the turbo manifold runners area actually a tiny bit larger. I know someone here measured various manifolds and posted their results, but you'll have to search some to find it. The non-webbed runners might actually be worse for heat soaking the injectors if no heat shield is used.

Car ran fine when I switched to megasquirt, so as far as I know it works great. If it doesn't fix the issue send it back and just pay for shipping both ways. I'm with evilC, get the thing running and it will be worth it.

I've got one just sitting in a box. Unfortunately I'm in SLO a couple hours drive away. It's yours for $25 shipped, or you could cover shipping costs up there and back if you just want to borrow it. Just throwing an idea out there for you if you can't find something up there.

I just picked up a complete 77 parts car that should have what you need. What side do you need? The interior of this car is near flawless so I'm assuming the window regulators will be pretty cherry as well, though I have not removed the door panels yet. I'm thinking about $30 shipped for one, as this may be fairly bulky to package. $40 if you want both. If you're interested I'll pull the door panels and snap some pics for you later. I'll be posting a thread in the near future listing what all I have if you need anything else.

Well I recently wrecked the front driver's side of my freshly painted 77. I wanted to cry at the time, but now it's time to fix her up and get her back on the road. I would like to find a parts car somewhere near the Central Coast of California that at the the least has a good drivers side front fender, headlight bucket and suspension. The condition of the rest of the car is not terribly important to me, though good side window glass is a plus. If anyone has something that fits my needs please let me know Thanks Alec

I use a paint stripper that comes in an aerosol can from McMaster-Carr that works great. Its about $5 a can and it will strip paint and powdercoat in a few minutes. Plus you spray it on, so need to ruin a brush every time you use it. I wouldn't worry about the heat used to cure the powdercoat affecting the spring rate. You're springs will only be at around 400 deg for 10 minutes max. And thats only the surface temp. This is not long enough or at high enough of a temperature to affect the metalurgical properties of steel.

From all the reading I've done on this site it appears that a lot of the turbo guys are running BPR7ES in their street cars. Because of this I decided to do the same in my motor. I'm only running stock boost right now while I sort everything out after getting my head rebuilt and installing an intercooler, but I will be bumping it up in the next week or so to around 12-14psi. I thought running a slightly colder plug added a bit of detonation resistance, which was my main reason for switching. Is this not correct? or did I misinterpret something?

the knobs on the left and right that pull out are outside air vents. Pull them out and they allow air into the footwells. My car has a sunroof and I am able to pop up the sunroof, open those vents and get a great little breeze blowing up through the car with the windows rolled up.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I'm not too worried about becoming a PE, though. I don't ever really plan on doing design work or needing to sign off on something. It was a topic that came up during the interview though, and the recruiter said that is possible to work for a PE, but very difficult to get assigned to right places. I'll probably take the FE (used to be EIT), but only because it's easier to do now while everything is fresh than 5 years down the road. My goal for now is to work my ass off for 3-5 years, gain some experience, and save enough money to start my own business by the time I'm 30. I have no idea what that may be doing, but I'll find a niche somewhere. Tony, when I graduated high school joining the military would have meant immediate assignment to Iraq. It was something I considered, and I have several friends that did end up joining. Unfortunately, none of them were really the same after their first tour (of course they went in as Marine Infantry). I've always wanted to fly, but with my eyesight the USAF probably would have stuck me in some support role.

I just got back from an interview with Schlumberger in Midland, TX. I can't imagine a more interesting interview. I was there for two days and had a blast the whole time. I got to see a Fracturing job in process. There must have been over twenty large diesel trucks running pumps and blenders and other various equipment I know nothing about yet. It was great, and to imagine that I could be running a site like that within a year of going to work is unreal. I fully expect an offer come Monday and I most likely will take it. I'm not a design engineer and I can't stand the thought of spending my days in an office. Besides, where else will I get to manage a crew and be in charge of multi-million dollar equipment within 8-10 months of graduating? I hate the idea of taking the first offer I get, but I have no idea where else to look for this kind of work. Plus I never would have thought that I would get into Oil. Anyone have any good suggestions for a mechanical engineer that cannot stand the thought of staring at a computer all day?

Thanks for posting that link. I was looking for a way to ease my hot start problems and this looks like the best way to go about it. I used to have my IAT sensor mounted in the J-pipe before I went intercooled. Now I have it in the manifold where the cold start injector used to be. Both places suffered from really lean hot-starts so I don't think moving your sensor will help you that much. Come to think of it though, the J-pipe is steel and my intercooler pipes are aluminum so heat soak might not be as bad if I put the sensor in the aluminum pipes. Too late now.

To keep the springs from flopping around when I jack up the car I zip-tied them to the upper and lower perches in the front. There was even a small hole already there in both sets of perches for the zip-tie to fit through. The rears were compressed a bit when installed so no worries there

Yes. My head was shaved .019" and my machinist gave me shims that were .020" in order to maintain correct chain tension. 2 .015" shims should fix you up nicely.

In the process of putting my motor back together after warping the head, and now I'm dealing with what to do with the PCV now that I have switched to a N47 intake manifold. I shaved most of the manifold, but decided to keep the EGR flange to save myself a bit of effort. I knew that the PCV valve would hit on my turbo with this manifold so I started playing around with alternatives. The simplest solution I discovered was that the PCV valve screwed directly into the bottom of the EGR port. Now I'm running an aftermarket DP so EGR is not used and this port would just have to be blocked off anyway. At first I thought about just keeping the EGR valve there and hooking it up to the manifold since it would only open under vacuum, but then I decided I didn't like the way it looked. I found an old EGR valve laying around and decided to see if I could just use the base of it and take the valve completely out. So far it looks to me like it will work great. There were a couple of small holes that I welded shut and then I powdercoated the thing to match the intake manifold. Here are a few pics of how it turned out. So does anyone forsee any problems with this? I only drilled out the EGR valve to 3/8 since that was the biggest drill bit I had handy, but the orifice in the PCV valve is about that size too if not smaller, so I don't really see any flow restriction issues. The biggest issue I think will be routing the hose that close to the hot exhaust housing and downpipe, but I think I can can keep it far enough away. Any and all comments/suggestions are appreciated.

My 77 came with a simple pop-up sunroof when I bought it years ago. Luckily it seems to have been put in professionally and I have not really had any issues with leaks. I know a lot of people on here despise them, but I have really enjoyed mine. It certainly made driving from Texas to California in the summer a hell of a lot more bearable without A/C. I just popped open the footwell vents and popped up the sunroof and I was able to roll up the windows and still get a nice breeze in to keep somewhat cool. I say as long as you get it done right, then go for it. It may not help the "value" of the car, but if you're trolling this site then you're probably not too worried about keeping the car original to maintain value.

I just came across an extra Turbo Distributor drive spindle in my garage recently. I also might have the turbo ignition module as well. I'll have to double check on that. $40 for both or $25 each. If your goals are only around 200hp or so I wouldn't worry about sourcing a 240mm flywheel immediately. Your 225mm one will work fine with a decent clutch. I've been running one for years now. It's only when you get up to 250-300 ft-lbs of torque that it really starts to slip. I have a bunch of other various L28ET electrical stuff left over from my Megasquirt swap as well if you need anything else.