Tony D

It occurs to me that a mirror imaged S20 induction box would get some people scratching their heads...

Standard stuff, a good tuned twin SU L20A or L20E should be very close to 90-95ps, but average streeters will run about 75-85ps.There are no secrets: the power is in displacement, headwork, cam...

First incorrect ass u mption in this thread is that the valve cover is vented to air. It's not. Blu & NewZed got it right each in parts The PCV SYSTEM keeps the crankcase under VACUUM at ALL TIMES. Hence POSITIVE Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)... If you read the FSM they explain the function of the manifold valve is to regulate and control how MUCH vacuum is supplied. Obviously at WOT there is NO vacuum in the manifold to positively evacuate the crankcase, and the valve shuts completely. Likewise due to internal machining on the body and the shuttle inside with combination with the spring, when at idle the valve is close to being fully closed to prevent entrainment of excessive oil into the manifold. Where it's full open is under moderate throttle and load situations like light cruise, allowing medium vacuum in the manifold to draw from the top, filtered air into the crankcase and evacuating it through the combustion process. This happens because the vacuum present at the manifold is higher than the vacuum present in the intake at the front of the carbs or throttle body. When you go WOT, or an ET goes on-boost, the PCV Closes and built up blobby crankcase pressure it evacuated by the low pressure present in the intake tract between the Air Filter and the Throttle Body. This is several inches of water vacuum, and effectively siphons out the then sealed crankcase to similar pressure if your rings are in decent shape. Ideally the crankcase is maintained at marginally negative pressure of 1-4" WaterColumn at all iMessage. Generally without a plugged air liter you won't see that under WOT. You won't see that with a K&N in the stock housing nor with a similar substitute CAI due to the lower filter restriction. Yes a CAI makes oil leaks...I digress...

I've said it as long as the Internet has been commercial that a larger glass pack makes what normally a raspy popping eardrum buster into something that can be quieter than stock. A 3" is fine if you can package it the way you want. Most loud exhausts are single can set ups.. Most will be tamed with a glass pack added in the proper place with minimal flow impact, if any.

I've got nice videos from down under of the "Late" Pete Brock running at Bathurst.

Frankly, in Europe most first rate restorations cost that much in Euros... If not more.I know of at least two 240's in continental Europe with a bill at €150,000... The rolling race chassis go for €75,000 and up. They do not cut corners!

Both comments regarding burning oil miss the mark completely.It's the LATEST GENERATION of catalysts... What applied as recently as 6 years ago doesn't apply now. The catalysts in a 75Z only had to last 50K in CA, and 12/12 outside on a 49 stater (something like that.) The federal requirements now require 100,000 mile catalysts. The manufacturers are held liable. When we had stationary engines with 330 gallons in the sump, the FIRST THING we were required to do by Englehardt was to swap from Mobil Blackstar to Mobil Pegasus because it was a zero phosphorous oil. The ash WILL poison catalysts from normal engine operation. Think of how much oil you will pass through a catalyst in 100,000 miles, and with the zinc and phosphorous how quickly they would be poisoned. Zinc and Phosphorous were CHEAP additives for anti wear and anti acid formation. Same as Tetraethyl Lead in old gas. Think about it like this: unleaded gas runs your stock O2 sensor 60-100,000 miles easily.How long will it run on Leaded Racing Fuel? Sure, it will work or a WHILE. will it work for a warranty period of 100,000 miles? OEM's drove the requirement, due to the pernicious liability placed on them should vehicles start to fail compliance checks. It's hedging their bets. First went phosphorous, now Zinc. Randy's right...

TDC is normally determined by going to the timing mark and rocking back and forth, BTW Using a NEW pencil puts indication up near the valve cover where it's easy to see...

Uh, the stroke of a Z is not longer than a pencil...If you're saying you took a nub of a pencil to do this, uh... I am pilloried in some forums for being "condescending" or get posts in reply that start out "I'm not f-ing stupid, dude!" So PLEASE understand this sits is NOT devoted to mechanical noobs, neophytes, or that ilk.I try to give people the benefit of the doubt to figure out you use a pencil longer than 86mm (uh, again, thinking about this that would cover the HKS/Crower 85mm monster!) Get a tape measure.Measure a pencil.They are NOT 3" long! Do I REALLY have to specify "take a NEW pencil" here at Hybrid Z? ZC.C, maybe...

The head is universal configuration, symmetrical. You could put the intake on the opposite side just like OSG or S20. It's a bare head ready to finish machine into a working prototype. As I said, with the advances in 3D printing and Rapid Prototyping Technology, already having a set of FULL SIZE BLUEPRINTS makes doing THAT a MUCH better idea than finishing this head. Dupe it as a rapid prototype and finish THAT as the foundational machining setup would already be in the programming of the machining center. The jigs and fixtures that one with the head are from a time before five axis Haas Milling/Machining Centers. From a modern rapid prototyping casting, the five axis work from the blueprints would make this MUCH EASIER -- and easier to reproduce! The head as it is would likely have to be manually set up and manually finished...not something I'd trust to many places. IMHO the piece is a historical artifact, and should be preserved. It's TRUE GOLDEN VALE is those blueprints. From them... All following steps are downhill. I wonder what Derek could do with those prints? Better yet, wonder what kind of period correct intake he could cast?

UNTRUE! Those photos have been on the net for YEARS! Though some asshats aren't worth dealing with, and to them I say " go find them "

I put a 67 Chevy Crew Cab frame and cab on a rotisserie -- what does "light enough" have to do with anything? Use the same setup to do Camaro, Barracuda, Fury III...

Has your harmonic balancer slipped giving you an erroneous TDC Spike Mark? I'd stick a pencil down the #1 hole, turn it slowly, and determine if TDC on your Damper is actually TDC on your engine. THEN worry about twisted timing gear on dizzy drive shaft, being a tooth off, etc...

Truthfully the easiest way to get to 170 with the L20A is Turbocharging. The Japanese Magazines have been doing writeups this past year on hopping up the vintage L20A, but it's neither cheap, nor easy. Most stock examples spin a dyno below 100ps. Usually in the 75-85ps range depending on tune. The Bosch Dyno people were very surprised when my Twin SU 1975 Fairlady Z spun a 97ps reading. You effectively look to conservatively more than double what you likely realistically have, and while possible... it's far more economical to do with a turbo than N/A. (An L28 isn't an option, huh?) Our Bonneville Engine made 175hp to the rear wheels at some rpm. Last build it was 205 at 9200 rpms (9500 shift points), and would pull beyond that if we needed gear spread. If you want to stay N/A, and on a budget, you may want to consider lowering those expectations a bit. Our engine is not what I'd call 'streetable'!

AHHHH! You can't have a single! When you order FAGs, they gotta be in pairs. THAT is why they are astrisked now. No intermixing of brands, when you buy your FAGs, you gotta buy them in PAIRS or the board will reject your getting only one at a time. Kinda Like Girls at Annie's Soapy Massage in Bangkok... Can't get just ONE!

Why is F A G now astrisked out? It's a bearing name! German *** Polish ***, Chinese ***... it went in that context before. WTF?

I wouldn't say that. Only very recently did Timken start reboxing other competitive brands. To that point, if you ordered a Timken, you GOT a Timken. And likely it was the best there was out there on the market. Now, SKF and NTN will likely be the brand you get if you order a Timken for a Japanese Car, an *** or Timken will come for Euro Cars, and most American Makes (and older legacy products) will have Timkens in the Timken Box. Generally if you order SKF or NTN, especially in a bearing application for a Japanese Car, that is exactly what you get. Timken was traditionally an 'upgrade' even if they supplied to OEM, many times you could buy Timkens to replace Timkens which were tighter tolerance. It goes into how you order the bearing, if you order by plain number, and without suffixes known in the industry like "C3" or "C4" etc.... you will get as someone said above "Generic Bearings" but when you start specifying the dimensional specs commonly used in the industry, along with other specialty identifiers they selection gets progressively better, likely will last longer, and generally will be more expensive. I KNOW of one instance where SFK changed their bearing ID. Better metals allowed a thinner outer race, and they put in larger rollers. But you couldn't use the old inner with a new outer race! Look closely, they DO improve things over the years, and reusing races may not work all he time!

Profiling a housing is a simple matter with a 5Axis Tracer. A few plots along the blade profile, then 120 & 240 degrees for a diameter fix and input to a machining center to do the cutting: viola! Mismatched housing now matched! I just got some paperwork, and if it didn't obtain proprietary work stuff I could post a graphic of this exact process ( which is how we check machined rotors at work before certifying or assembly to a particular build.)

Disappointing a simple shot to grow my knowledge doesn't seem to exist.Nothing on Wikipedia shows a shot and the twin turbo references all POSTDATES the original Manga, Anime, and Motion Picture. I expected better here, but little kids raised on the Internet don't value heritage, so WTF, right? I didn't invent the Devil Z, I just touched and groped the one used in the Motion Picture. That's all.

Yeah, it was the first time I'd seen fractionals and not decimals on a machining print.Whomever set up that Bridgeport needed to be good with his math! Short of small sheet metal drawings I never drew fractions. Everything or the government and military was decimals. I'd love a copy just to hang on the wall. They could have used restoration/transfer, appeared o be on original Vellum and principled not particularly inked!

It's not a "purist fight"--rather a question about development of a vehicle over time. There are specific, correct descriptions. This was not a discussion about constructing a Devil Z, but rather construction OF "The Devil Z"---two VERY different things ctc! People mix the three (Manga, Motion Picture, Anime) genres together, ascribing one trait from one to another. It's worse now that there is a "NEW" Devil Z out there which all the kiddies know and THINK is the ORIGINAL car? For christs sake the car in the JY in the new motion picture is a 2/2!!! Not in the 1989/90 version! FOR INSTANCE: People swear the Devil Z is carburetted. Sure it is. At one point. As I have pointed out though, the Anime and matching Manga I saw followed the Motion Picture closely, so closely as mentioned that they could have used a tracing program from the screen shots off the motion picture. And in the motion picture the car STARTS as a triple carbed blowthrough turbo setup, but during the engine change scenes in the end (and as I PERSONALLY WITNESSED) the car was equipped with first generation analog FI using HKS ITB's and the same surge tank. If you're a graphic artist with no technical background, you don't catch these details... As an engineer I do. The SSS cars developed from Carbs in the mid 80's to the new EFI setups midway through the decade. HKS, SK, and others made ITB's, many using DUAL INJECTORS PER CYLINDER.... That's just ONE example of the misinformation online, and people without a technical clue, or who have never seen firsthand the original Manga or the Original Motion Picture from the 89/90 year of 'big growth'... There is ONE person I would defer to on this: YETTERBEN He's got archival crap that makes my stash look anemic. I may have to get out my dead VHS Tape and see if I can screen capture the specs page from the 1990 'making of' video...

The drawings would be nice to have reproduced...if for nothing else to document a lost craft. Everything was hand drafted and in English fractional units! If nothing else, it would make a bitchen print on a T-Shirt! I still have a small album of the photos I took that day with 'Mike' and a 714 phone number on the back of a yellow post-it! Obviously, you got a new number! Good to see all is well with the jigs, fixtures, etc... "Rapid Prototyping" is a possibility, with the current core, drawings, etc... I think a modern casting could be made to replicate it keeping the historical mystery head intact. And likely giving more consistent metallurgy. This project still intrigues me!

I'm with John on the last statement. It should be 'Stick with a reputable manufacturer and they are all similar'---I'm a follower of the top three on his list. I've gotten not had good luck with Polish FAGs or Chinese FAGs despite being a reputable name... Always had good luck with German FAGs though.

What do you mean? That is the point where the interior wiring harness transitions under the car to the fuel pump.The wires internal to the passenger compartment got o the combi relay above the steering column.

Considering the Manga and First Motion Picture froze the development of the series in1989/1990 (first year for Z32/BNR32) developments after that point is what is being inquired about as for close to 10 years to that point it was a known entity in Japan...