Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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More items for "the shelf" no doubt!
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45'HC's will fit three 280Z 2+2's inside with some maneuvering room at back, or front. It's a good place to store tyres and such...Two in there gives you quite a bit of storage...The ramps I use are the standard plastic crappy ones they sell at Autozone.
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I worried about the "garaged" clause till I got a 45'HC Shipping Container.They accept that as a "Garage"
Also be careful, many times it allows for "garaged/carport"-they want it covered somehow.
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The reserve is 30K... What's the hang up on 100K?
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Don't make me disassemble stuff!
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Arriving SYD early October... Plan on being in attendance at Bathurst.
I HAVE FROM NOW UNTIL THEN TO ACCUMULATE PARTS AND PACK THEM IN MY BAG HERE IN THE STATES
Mark, get the word out and have the guys PM me here. I should have a great excuse to loiter n SYD for at least a week before returning to New Caledonia.Let's make the best ofit, shall we!
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If I stay steady it won't go past it and will buck and surge perpetually.Give it gas, get past it, and drive on.
The PO had HUGE tires on it, so his highway speed cruise was considerably lower than when I put OEM Size tyres on it.
I bumped my highway cruise speed up to 75+ and haven't looked back.The EFI system I have in the car is a 1976 setup with 176,000 miles on it.
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The calculation of needle position and it's "correctness" is a function of actual temperature, & thermostat.
Top reading - bottom reading=spanSpan/100= percentage of relative movement (*PRM)
PRM+Bottom Reading= indicated temperature
Do the math and you will know what your gauge is reading. Nothing near E unless you're in Minot in February warming up...
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Sloth and Ignorance are their own reward I suppose.
Fine for some, not me.
The TRULY curious will find answers.
The idle curious waste everybody's time.
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12 hours a day 6 days a week and people wonder why they don't get an answer spoon feeding them...
This is why.
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There was dyno testing done using the pump as well for evaluating the difference in quantifiable ways under controlled load conditions. That was also posted but it was general information not excel tables and charts... Mainly because I don't know if posting those is different from photos, and second because it was $1,600 of personal money spent quantifying it and I just don't feel like giving specifics away for free when the majority of punters who would access it wouldn't appreciate it anyway. It's always anybody's perogative to conduct testing on their own and share the results. There are limits to my generosity and the site is set up for self-directed learning. Things that seem unrelated aren't, and those that seemingly are related directly--aren't! Searching is hit and miss inside the box. We aren't Dewey-Systemized here!
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No photos visible.
As I recall Jeff gave pretty detailed photos of the port work done at the head juncture which increased port flow considerably
The BIGGEST reason given by most for going to a tubular exhaust manifold on a turbo is the perception that it "flows better than the restrictive cast manifold"-- but when you cut apart a stocker, like Jeff Shows, the internal diameter of the Euro Manifild is actually larger than the SFP 1 5/8" tubular one he bought for excessive $$$.
When you then realise this, and see the bumps and restrictions at the head juncture, it becomes easy to remove flow obstructions that are obvious -- giving you the cast Manifild with a "tubular equivalent" on the exhaust port to Manifiold.
Depending on the engine it was installed upon his spool was a couple hundred RPM's earlier, and obviously no impediment to power production to over 7200 RPM's.
As far as I know Jeff's setup is the only one I know of making 650+ HP on stock based intake AND exhaust
Manifolds. He did it for a reason, and do far the only quantifiable reason for removing a stock manifold was found on the intake side, where the stock runners are costing us 30CFM per hole compared to the Cannon Triple manifold and either a plenum or ITB Setup.
The exhaust side, ported to be tubular equivalent on the flange to head area does not appear to require replacement to 650+HP at 7200 rpms (and he's just afraid to run it higher, I'm working on him about that...!!!)
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Posted Jesco Brochure clearly shows flow @ RPM and is easily compared to published data for L28 Petrol version as specified in FSM.
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As to VW's and oil weight, like most GERMAN engineered things, if you deviate from the engineered specifications, you run the risk of catastrophic damage.
When VW or BMW says an oil weight, they MEAN it.
What VW or BMW say doesn't apply to a Nissan, or a Ford. Each application has it's own engineering rationale.
Air Cooled VW's were notorious for scuffing cylinders and bearing breakdown when you ran other than the originally designated 30Wt (Straight!)
Atlas Copco air compressors did things which confounded simple observations when synthetic or off-weight oils were used. For instance, run an ISOVG32 Mineral Oil (20Wt) and all was good. Cold to hot the oil pressure would go high to low as one would logically expect. Put almost any synthetic and it had trouble not tripping on low oil pressure when cold, and setting off 'high oil pressure' when warm. Cutting and shimming the oil pump was an exercise in futility as the flow on the bypass leg was calibrated for maximum flow with mineral oil, not the dynamics of synthetics.
Oil is VERY misunderstood, how it works, how it acts and behaves, what you really want or need.
This was so important for VW in the Air Cooled Days, field trainers would spend almost 40 hours training distribution mechanics on proper lubricants and why you needed the ones VW Specified.
Apparently little has changed in their design philosophy, they engineer for X, and expect you to use X. If you use Y, and it doesn't work like X, they will give a typical German response: "It isn't X, what did you expect?!"
They do have a point!
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Heh heh heh Bessemer Engine c.1933!
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Jeff P's Anglefire "Extreme 280ZXT" page covers this.
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Pressure is resistance to flow. Thicker oil has more resistance and pressure builds, indicated by instruments.
As mentioned this also takes more horsepower to drive the oil pump with this thicker oil.
As engines wear, clearances increase allowing for more potential flow across that "orifice" this shows on institments as a "pressure loss" when in fact flow through the bearing juncture has actually increased.
"But Tony, you just said a pump is a mechanical device limited to a set flow curve by its internal capacity!"
And so it is.
It is also routinely so oversized for the application it's not funny. As the engine wears, in reality what is dumped overboard through the pumps relief valve just gets less and less. This allows full pump flow to the bearings and indicated pressure remains constant.
This is why bearings with wider clearances don't overheat, they have plenty of cooling oil flow across their working surfaces.
As John C says "shim the pump relief spring if you want mor pressure" -- what
You do is simply
Put the full pumps capacity to the ENGINE BEARINGS and not dump it overboard back to the sump.
Increasing the viscosity is generally not something recommended unless you have very specific application needs. Street cars are wasting money. Straight 30 or 40 is fully acceptable in less variable environments like where I live.
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What you say is true, but the problem with the air in a tire analogy is that you are using a compressible fluid (air in this case) and oil is essentially uncompressable. So the amount of oil in a given volume at 0 psi is essentially the same as at 35 psi.
So my question remains: all else being equal, in our L engines, does using a lower viscosity oil result in more or less VOLUME of oil being delivered to the lubricating surfaces?
The viscosity has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the VOLUME DELIVERED.
This is almost a purely mechanical derivitave of the oil pump's capacity. The oil pump moves X cc's of displacement per 360degrees of movement. The volume displaced is that volume multiplied by the pumps input shaft speed.
Oil the thickness of tar may have a priming / pickup problem... But once flowing it will be delivered at the exact same volume by the pump as 0W-100 Super Synthetic.
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Yes they have.
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Dead Spot in the AFM Wiper Resistive Trace
Performing standard FSM checks will reveal this.
Mine does the same thing-I've been driving "around" that dead spot for years.
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Just a little reality for people here:
Whole Car's Shell for $300 (Fair Enough Price)---guy gets $300, and his driveway is clear, done, not a second more spent worried that there will be a code enforcement ticket, upset neighbor, DONE! He goes inside to have a beer.
Roof and Rockers for $400 (Fair Enough Price)--guy gets $400, for cutting up the parts, but still has a driveway full of a hulk of a car which is now incomplete. Spend the rest of the day in the hot sun cutting the REST of the car into little dumpster sized bits, then driving around behind shopping centers disposing of them out of the trunk of his car. Spends $40 in gas to dispose of the parts. Net money now $360, but he's lost a day of his life to accommodate your request for pieces instead of the whole thing.
This is the SAME THING as a half cut from Japan. Sometimes the WHOLE CAR shows up instead. The price they get them for doesn't justify the labor used to chop them in half and then deal with what remains!
Another way to read this: He really doesn't want to cut the damn thing up for the scenario in #2 above...but is willing to do it. He would RATHER the WHOLE THING just go away.
I have to be honest: If I had a roof just LAYING AROUND it would be cheap.
If someone wanted me to CUT OFF A ROOF (and thereby invoke the second scenario above) I would be hard pressed to accept almost ANY offer as I just don't want to spend a day cutting up a car. You want the WHOLE thing, come take it. You want to piece it apart...come take the WHOLE thing and YOU "Sell the rest for a profit" if you think you can.
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He already explained in that he is more than willing and has the tools to cut panels for people / he is junking the car anyway. Doesn't mean he can charge 300 for a roof section...
I have seen other's here have roof sections cut and delivered from old shells for way less.
1) Yes it does.
2) Then buy them instead.
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As Leon mentioned, the Tau Layer is fuel coating the walls of the runners.
The KEY to proper mixture control is to keep the Tau Layer CONSISTENT.
The problem that confounds ALL high-end EFI tuners is the transitionals to keep the Tau constant.
For carbs....well... "Just go rich, and you will be safe"... I got 17MPG on my 350HP Blow-Through Mikuni L28 for YEARS. (Decades, actually...) Better than the SU's that were on it formerly, tell the truth.
With EFI, my drivability problems went away, my transitional driving smoothed out immeasurably, and my mileage went up to high 20's. Cruise on the freeway went from 17 to 29-31mpg. On track mileage was identical: 4-5mpg if I'm lucky.
And with all that being said...I revert to the original statement, REGARDLESS of your setup:
You can have the best components in the world. It doesn't mean that ONE thing failing ONCE won't turn it all into a pile of scrap instantly. And you may never HEAR anything.
The detonation you hear is 'safe'---you pull your foot.
What about the thousands of miles you drove without ever hearing it?
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Why do the big boys in NHRA run Vacuum Pumps on the Crank Case?
Find the answer, and you will answer your own question about the PCV.
It's not just an emissions component.
They're cheap, and the Nissan Valve is more than just a check valve. It is a flow-control device. It throttles the amount of evacuation given dependent on load and engine speed. The OEM design has at a minimum 4" W.C. evacuation pressure on the crankcase AT ALL TIMES if not slightly more (midrange)...
what trim to use on To4e-50
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted · Edited by Tony D
FYI
The stock T3 was 0.48 A/R Turbine Side on the L20ET (JDM) - 145HP
The stock T3 was 0.63 A/R Turbine Side on the L28ET (North American Market) - 180 HP
The stock T3 was 0.82 A/R Turbine Side on the L28ET (Eurospec) - 200 HP
FROM FORENSIC DISASSEMBLY, ALL THESE TURBOCHARGERS USED THE SAME CENTER CARTRIDGE, HOT SIDE WHEEL, COMPRESSOR WHEEL, AND COMPRESSOR HOUSING (AND HOUSING A/R)