Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I've been called aggressive in some driving I do, and that's with nobody else on the road!<img src="http://forums.hybridz.org/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif" alt="
" class="bbc_emoticon"><br><br>When you hit the zone, you're there!<div><br></div><div>HOLY HELL! I just watched the video!</div><div><br></div><div>1) the black blob between the catch fence near the middle of the old F1 Pits on the right before entry to Eau Rouge may well be ME!<img src="http://forums.hybridz.org/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif" alt="
" class="bbc_emoticon"></div><div>2) on that second smaller video below, there is a striped GT350 Mustang just after the last white 911---that looks like one of the VA Motorsports cars, they were in the #3 New F1 Pit area.</div><div><br></div><div>I think I know that red 911! I may have photos of it. I'm going to have to go read the stewards list from the Spa events I've attended.</div><div><br></div><div>Freak me out!</div> -
AHA! Well that's something at least...
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Cool! (huh huh huh uuuuh huh huh huh!)
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"The brakes on the 370Z are fine unless you're a red mist moronic magazine writer. "
Hey, I know some of those guys!
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Bent valves usually mean Zero Compression no?
I don't see how a bent valve would "fail everything...but not by very much at all"
It's that last part that's throwing me!
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The Bypass Loops (two 8~10 mm holes at the front of the head) provide enough bypass for the engine to properly recirculate at fast idle.
For a 'track use car' that should be more than enough to warm the engine in the pits before going on the track.
Frankly, most block those bypasses!
A way to get maximum cooling and still allow decent circulation from a fast pump is to take the heater connection at the back of the head, run it to the heater valve, and back to the inlet of the pump. Wide open during startup will let the engine war quickly to operating temperature, and provide PLENTY of flow recirculation (15mm hose!) for higher speed operation.
Once the engine warms, you simply slide the valve closed forcing ALL available pump output THROUGH the engine, instead of shunting it from the back of the engine back to the inlet of the pump.
This is why you don't want to 'loop' the heater core line when you remove the heater core! Sets up a terrible overheating potential!
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You could liken Subaru to the Datsun of yester year. A smaller corporation that is not affraid to take risks. And not unlike Datsun they have extensive development and after market support for their last concept, the wrx and sti. They have learned from their experience and know their short comings; infact, they are even smart enough to harness the mass production and scale of a would be competitor and have teamed with them to develop a market changing car. I hope that Nissan's response to this won't be too little too late. I'm confident that they can engineer the next Z in a timely manner, and hopefully it will carry on the tradition of very high performance in an AFFORDABLE package.
All that being said I guess it is just the Z man in me yearning for Nissan to push the envelope. I am a Subaru owner as well (albeit NOT a performance model) and frankly I LOVE the BRZ and the 86, LOVE! Only time will tell how this next Z comes along, but my vote will go to a 6 cyl base with maybe even a twin turbo premium model in the future... Look out Mustang/Camaro.
Did someone just sneakily repost a camouflaged version of Post #15?
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"The three cylinders fail everything, including compression testing...but not by very much at all."
Could you PLEASE explain exactly what that means? What I read there tells me absolutely nothing, and is the basis for very poor decisions. Especially if you're working on electronics!
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Yeah, it takes "Life Lessons" like that to get me to change.
You don't even want to know what got me to Lasik my eyes.... Lets just say when you hear your glasses hit the 'water' but they don't sink...and then you wear them for three hot hours in a hot Indonesian Summer waiting to get to your 'backup spares' knowing where they just were....
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This should come as NO surprise for older S30 Owners, my comments regarding all the 'brake upgrades' is that rather than putting all this fancy crap on the car, put GOOD fluid and GOOD pads on the car, as the STOCK ANYTHING will not hold up under even track day or Auto X Use!
Disturbing that they charge you $580 for a set of pads...
I'm sure Porterfield would sell you a set of R4S pads and a gallon or two of Motul RBF650 for $580 and you would have money left over to go to Burns Stainless a block or two over...or to In & Out Burger for a 4X4 Animal Style...
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I could swear he said he got a 82/83 L28et distributor at the beginning of the thread.
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">FROM THE FIRST POST:
" My donor engine didn't come with a distributor so I got a 82-83 one from a member here."
Nothing in there AT ALL about "ET".....
And an 82/83 L28ET has a CAS, not a "Distributor"
If people would stick to standard, proper terminology instead of slang and other bits, the posts would be much easier to decipher and stop this kind of guessing and after-the-fact rumination.
Even if you DID have an 82/83 CAS assembly (which looks just like the 81 "Distributor") you STILL need the drive spindle as stated: "It don't drop right in, it's useless without the drive spindle."
If we look at the continuation of improper terminology, Francisco replies in his last that "HE DOES" in response to the incorrect statement above by HM that "I could swear he said he got a 82/83 L28et distributor at the beginning of the thread."
You can swear all you want, but that is NOT what was said, and now it's just muddied further by one who didn't read, and another who doesn't understand what he has or doesn't have.
The posts leading up to this are correct, this after-thought rumination takes the thread down a more confusing path is needn't wander down.
Disappointing.
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After having my single (which cooled marginally) fail in use (admittedly not as big an issue now, 20 years later...) I have always used dual fans, temperature staged.
One fails, you always have SOME cooling available. And trust me, stopping every two or three blocks driving through Compton/Watts in the hot summer of 1992 was NOT something that was enjoyable, nor particularly good for my health!
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Internal Cost, Wholesale, or Retail?
Retail that assembly was $32,000 to replace!
I got photos of FAR worse, but not on this laptop.
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"That motor was a true garage trophy of my greenness."
Tradition demands a single, worst example of the failure be preserved, and placed on a shelf. "Offerings to the Gods of Speed"....
I watched that documentary when I was 6 years old, and somewhere that phrase stuck in my mind, to be put on MY shelf.
Not until I watched the "World's Fastest Indian" on DVD, and saw the Documentary did it click in my mind where I'd seen that phrase, subliminally registered, to be used almost 30 years later!
Everybody who is serious has 'The Shelf'... if you are pushing the envelope, you will have plenty of examples. I'd need a conex box if I kept WHOLE ENGINES!
Hanging from my rearview mirror in my 62 Microbus to this day is a mangled M12 flat washer, suspended on monofilament line.
It's a reminder that 'when you rush, and you are missing something, DON'T ASSUME it's on the GROUND beneath that engine you just installed...'
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I agree 100% with Gollum's latest posting...
I was 'dial a boost' between 275 and 350, which eventually led me to the conclusion that really the TurboXS two-stage controller is perfect for a street car. It was either 'daily driver' or 'oh, the Honda wants to run does he...' setting...
"The power curve ended up as an almost flat line at 270hp from 4000-6000, which leads me to believe that's pretty close to the max this compressor has to give"
I would agree with this. If you look at the compressor curve you are in stonewall for the PPH the wheel will produce. If you had a sensitive enough piezeo pressure sensor, you would see pressure fluctuations in the plenum or dishcarge pipe resulting from the intake valve opening and reversion waves influencing the pressure. The turbine speed is over optimum.
This same phenomenon was experienced by JeffP on his larger turbo. Made the same HP at 7200HP an 17psi as he did at 25psi and 6875.... from each of those points the HP just "flattened"
He would not turn it down to 15psi, and run it to 8500 to see the cam power point. From THAT test alone you can see what advancing/retarding the cam will do to put your power point, stonewall point, and upper rpm limit all in the right perspective.
And it also tells you that you don't necessarily have to run a lot of boost all the time, you CAN up the R's. The A-Cam will run to 6500 as you can see. Which is nice compared to the stock boring turbo cam at 5800 so if you are road racing it will make for nice stuff on the straights if you gear correctly. But like stated, it's not a big deal to get in a twist about. And yes, the irony of a stock N/A cam being 'better' in the application than many aftermarket cams supposedly 'tailor made' for the situation tells you something about the marketing and myths involved in the automotive world.
When you talk to Ron Iskendarian, or even read their catalog it will state: "Duration and Timing same as stock, more lift." -- it's a couple 'Stages' down the road before Ron alters event timing. First is more lift. It's a 'freebie'---same driveability, more power, maybe slightly less valvetrain stability (but not an issue at only 6500!) EVERYBODY in the VW world running a bare bucks turbo was putting 1.25 ratio rockers, or 1.5's on in order to get more lift and duration than the stock cam gave. The power change was definately quantifiable, and your driveability was identical to stock.
I digress...
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Good Luck on the startup.
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None are as blind as those who will not see.
None as deaf as those who will not hear.
He asked the question, and if he didn't get the answer he was looking for, he asks the same question again.
I'm going to go by what is posted in this thread:
"I'm almost done with my l28et swap into my 75 280z but I'm stuck on the distributor. My donor engine didn't come with a distributor so I got a 82-83 one from a member here. Will the 82-83 dizzy bolt in into the 81 harness? What do I need to make It work? Or should I just get a 81 dizzy for it?"
DIZZY? No, it won't work if you are using the 81 Harness. You need a CRANK ANGLE SENSOR. Do you have an 82/83 CAS? That will plug right in, but you need the proper drive spindle.
"I have the stock ecu off the 81 car.And yes I have the stock CAS sensor on my harness . "
Good, put that harness on the front of the engine, Now you just need a distributor.
"I think I will just run my l28 distributor and swap out the 82-83 one. "
Bad Idea
"so i can run the l28e distributor in my l28et correct? "
NO.
WHAT YOU NEED IS A LOCKED DISTRIBUTOR TO DISTRIBUTE THE SPARK SINCE THE CAS ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE WILL INTERACT WITH THE ECU TO GIVE THE COIL THE SPARK SIGNAL.
IF YOU USE THE STOCK DISTRIBUTOR FROM ANY YEAR IT WILL HAVE AN ADVANCE FUNCTION WHICH HAS TO BE DISABLED OR YOU WILL JUMP TERMINALS AT MAX RPMS AND BOOM.
You REALLY need to work on answering the questions people pose to you instead of just asking the same question over and over again hoping you will get the answer you want.
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This wheel is 17-4 PH Stainless Steel, what do you think it cost to repair IT?
It could be 'worse'!
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FO!
Foreign Object Damage.
Likely it was ingested, threw the wheel out of balance, and as that imbalance worked and worked, your bearings are getting damaged.
Looks like you have something that was hitting the inlet taper to the eye on the scroll casting. That may be the 'bounce point' where whatever went through the turbo bounced off at high speed before being ingested.
You say you had a tear in the inlet piping? Chances are you ingested small rocks, etc during your time there, through that opening (dust throwoff up in the air) and that is what caused your damage.
Air takes the path of lowest resistance. It would rather suck through that hole, than through any filter!
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Update???????
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Android... argh... Now I got to buy an Android Tablet or something so I have this back.
I worked with 'reed boxes' for years and this sounds as accurate as those were.
You're dead nuts correct: a few calculations and you can know EXACTLY where to look!
REALLY want to say thanks for this little tidbit.
Now, to see if I can justify it for work so I don't have to pay! How cheap is THAT!?!?!?...
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A halfshaft will cause vibration. What was the APP mentioned for the smartphone that shows the frequencies?
If it was named, I missed it, that would tell you right away where it's coming from.
"In the Old Days", Ford Field Reps going out on an NVH Complaint had a reed box--you went for a drive, and looked at these little reeds vibrating. When they excited, you read the frequency...
Then crossed it to a list of known frequencies at various speeds. Sounds lo-tech as hell, but MAN it was like a magic divining rod. I was out on one where it said to look at the alternator bearings...
Guess what the source of the noise was? SAS: Bad alternator!
Mercury and Lincoln owners were a PITA!
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Couldn't log on last evening via iphone to say "Your measurements are done static, not under load."
The thing may be perfect, but under the loads imposed at speed an angularity is introduced that causes this phenomenon...
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Data Entry Field for Edits SUCKS NOW!
" class="bbc_emoticon"><br><br>When you hit the zone, you're there!
Better put ducts in your 370Z
in Non Tech Board
Posted
BEEN THERE DONE THAT!