Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Speed sensitive for Auto X would seem to be the way to go.I would have to understand the speed sensing input, but if its compatible with the GM unit it's likely a magnetic pickup and senses frequency...
Meaning guys with aftermarket speedos and a pulser system already likely could use it. At most you would have to get a set of driveshaft magnets from an aftermarket cruise control system--they sell them separately since the glue can sometimes let go...
This makes my power rack in the driveway not look so attractive, like a ship, electricity is easier and cleaner to route than hydraulics!
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I can help with that in Bangkok, Pattaya, Chonburi, Ban Chang, Lat Phrao, Manila, Lucena, Angeles City, Olongapo, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Okinawa, Taipei, Kaoshung, Tao Yuan, Saigon, Johor Bahru, Malacca, Singapore, Sydney, East Morrisset, Shanghai, Gebeng, Amsterdam, Utrecht, Milan, Merseyside, Liverpool, Manchester, Holyoke MA, Buffalo Ny, or even Champaign IL...
BUT IRONICALLY NOT WHERE I I HAVE A HOUSE!
That may change now... But where taxis flourish I can drink. Taxis don't like to take a big drunk guy out into the countryside for some reason...
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See how those specs correlated? 300=250, 310=260...Im with PMC, without added lift the duration is pretty much useless.
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I would say the jaggies are because ther instrument it fast scanning. software should smooth that somewhat.
i think you are rich past 4000, i think you will broaden the torque peak by trimming fuel back above torque peak. on Jeffp's engine we were at almost 13.5/13.8 after torque peak and still making power with good EGT's and no detonation. the more we pulled, the more power we made.
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Vendor & Price?
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SpoonyThe shops mentioned are all very close if you stay in the Anaheim or Anaheim Hills area of Orange County.Datsun Parts LLC and McKinney are " inland empire" area, and you can visit both in a day.Beta Motorsports and Motorsport Auto are very near Anaheim, maybe 15 minutes either way.
If you have Viber or Whatsapp, send me a PM, and I can talk. I get sick photos from my buddy near Oberhausen regularly that way.I will likely be in the Philippines at that time, otherwise you could stay at my place and store your hoarde of parts till time to ship!
If you get a list, anything you could want is here for your automobile. You just have to drive around a bit to get it!
It is not like driving in Germany...
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This is a cam that when measured with conventional 0.050" lift specs is really at most a 275 duration. More likely 260. That coincides with the lift.
If you look at Isky's site, they will show you both gross duration and duration at 0.050" valve lift.Schneider does this as well I believe.
There is no reason to run 300 duration with a small lift like that.
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Yes, the thought that back in the early 70's someone was working on a DOHC...Not idly chatting on a desk blotter with friends.. Someone worked it out, drew it up, made the forms, cast it, started machining, and then...
The project ends up in estate sale and is sold lock-stock-and-barrel at a parts swap meet in San Diego 20 years later.
This work is PREDATING THE TC24B1 by A DECADE!
That is kind of cool. Likely the guy was old, and died without it being completed. I can only ponder why it stopped where it did, ill health?
If you ask "why" the passion escapes you, which is sad.
This is the spark from someones imagination that was one HARDCORE enthusiast.
Maybe the milquetoast set here wanting bolt-on solutions and stuff to be stocked at Autozone or it doesn't get done... I can see them asking "why"... Why climb Everest? Why race?
I mean we have people here who remake tubular components...Yeah, we had someone even cut up a head...
But gentlemen... This is "Worlds Fastest Indian" type shite! This is mad scientist in the shed toiling to odd hours of the morning coming out to eat breakfast and clean the carbon from his brow reeking of cutting oil and castor beans...
THIS IS FABRICATION!
Truly, it doesn't exist, so the guy decided to MAKE ONE!
To me, this is one step beyond mere adaptation. Cutting and piecing what is already done...that's one thing.
This is returning to Vulcan, the god of hellfire to break the resolve of the metal at a molecular level and force it from it's natural form to a form you proscribe.
This is not "adaptation", this is "CREATION" -- something men are supposedly incapable of doing!
For me, that elicits a monster-raging Viagra blue-steel wood!
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If you bore the L20A you can make a 2300cc using L24 pistons or 2500cc using L28 pistons.The 2300 was popular in Japan as you didn't have to do an engine swap each inspection.
Once the piston size is increased, you can use the larger valves from the L24 in the head.
Really though, a swap to an L24 would be easier if its allowable. That would put you near the 120 range if tuned to a "T" on all stock components.
Me? If I HAD to keep the L20A block for some sort of rule ompliance on displacement, I'd buy some Forged L24 Pistons, put them in the block for 2300cc's, then buy a ported and polished N42 head...make a call to Ron for a high RPM turbo grind, and build an 8500 rpm fuel injected street turbo motor with about 300HP
But that's just me. You can do what you want. With a 4.38 gear in that car, I'd go eating things...
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Things get hot, and saturated wet...and glassfibre holds that in there. Mild steel has no place in the internals of a baffle with glassfibre. Then again, they sound good, rot out, and are cheap, so some MBA figured out 'steady stream of aftermarket follow-on sales" --- the trick was determining how crappy to make it so it fails early enough to insure consistent flow of cash back to the maker, but not so quickly that it gets branded a POS and they loose the hook on the fleshy-mouthed suckers they reeled in initially!
I've gone so far as to buy the stainless and make a replica of the can I liked (Trust/Greddy from 1978!)
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RE-Derek and lifters, cams , gears, valves etc...
There was some talk, I don't remember the size of the holes already machined into this head, but I think I posited at the time that this head (given the period it was made) would likely accept Toyota DOHC Buckets and shims for the valve actuation and adjustment. Frankly that is easily adapted, it's just a bore. Possibly the cams from a 1MG or 5MG...or perhaps a Jag? Cams are cut from billet and ground, since I can come into a place and say "can I talk to Ron" that for me is pretty much a done deal, though any cam grinder would likely be able to do it...just setting up the machine for the valve centers. Same bumpstick offset as an RB I would suppose. Remember the KA Sectioned head used a lot of off the shelf parts including cams.
Which is why I say making ANOTHER head instead of using this one would be a better idea. The casting would likely be a better quality, and then you could start from square one with MODERN buckets (smaller diameter, less friction, better parts availability BETTER METALLURGY FOR NON ZINC OILS!!!) Valves are no biggie, Ferra makes what you want, just tell em!
See what got started...
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Tony,
S20 head is not symmetrical. The inlet and exhaust ports are a similar shape and with a similar manifold bolt pattern, but the inlet side has multiple water passages for the inlet manifold to mate up with. Similar situation with the OSG TC24-B1 too: It has the external coolant log running along the top of the exhaust manifold, and that mates up with the coolant passages in the block.
Switching of the exhaust and inlet sides on both heads would require a complete re-design of the coolant passages, with the knock-on effects needing to be dealt with too ( oilways, bolt holes etc etc ).
Alan T.
PS, pics of my 432R replica project's 'K3' S20 head for reference:
Alan,
Too much pedantry there---the reference was that the Paeco-Goertz head was symmetrical, AS SUCH you could place the intake or exhaust on EITHER SIDE---so putting the intake on the RIGHT SIDE like an S20 or OSG is possible.
Likewise, putting the Intake on the LEFT SIDE like a 1MG from a 2000GT Toyota is ALSO possible.
The head as cast is perfectly symmetrical in both intake and exhaust port configuration, no difference. You can make the head in any configuration you should want.
If there was a mad hybridizer out there wanting an L-Block in a 2000GT, this head would allow that intake/exhaust configuration just as easily as and S20 or OSG setup.
I did not say the S20 or OSG heads were symmetrical, just that you could make this head into a similar configuration because it is a blank slate.
Seriously, did you honestly think I would ever say the S20 or OSG castings are symmetrical?
I'm somewhat hurt...
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I've never had an issue using Eberhard Faber-Castell standard wood pencils since..... 197.......1978 I think is the first time I used one.
Handy, and never had a problem.
Sometimes "operator error" in lo-budget answers IS the problem and not the device used.
I say pencil because just about anybody then had one in their pocket. As opposed to a Hardwood Dowel of similar diameter.
We're not talking a 15:1 racing engine here, it's a flat topped stocker. If it went crunch, most of the remnants would combust or harmlessly be pulverized.
As opposed to 'something' which could include metallic objects which can mar the piston top. Hard to do that with an eraser...
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I am an agent of the Devil, my initials "TD" may indicate I am indeed he, but this is just an ugly rumour...
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They have one like a spark plug with a dial indicator in the center...
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Tyson should come to SoCal for MSA and stay at the house with Frank.
I got Johnnie Walker Black, 100 Pipers, Bundaburg, and by the time MSA rolls around, more bar stock!
We got two spare rooms now!
OR FRANK, we could set up something on the East Coast and "Caravan" to the event. It's just getting a couple of Z's from here to there. The Turd is Capable. We can store them at Big Larry's house outside Baltimore, and go from there.
I got enough Airline Miles to do that, and the Z's... Just got to get two in similar shape to the Turd!
Sounds like a plan for 2013 Frank... We can swing by my Bro, My Dad, and ride US2 all the way into MSP.
And Frank, I gotta pick up Guns at Dads...
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If someone wants to be an arsehat about this (more and more often...)
"The proper advise would have been this........"
Put a freakin' DIAL INDICATOR SPINDLE DOWN THE HOLE! (Connected to an indicator...Duh!)
Not "something"!
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All the stuff I bought in Japan fits an L-Series...
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250-120= 130
130/100= 1.3
You're at about 60% of span there, agreed?
SO:
60X1.3= 78
78+120= 198]
SEE HOW IT WORKS NOW?
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Most places are... Automotive ownership in the USA is very cheap, and many now buy " bottom feeder cars" - no real appreciation for the CAR, just what they can get at the cheapest price whatsoever. Labor costs and parts costs are much higher in these places (the €75,000 chassis I mention had 400 hours in it, do the math to anyplace here in the USA and there's a labor cost for you!) so accordingly the finished product price is as well.
Really the people who can afford to have cars there are much better off than in the US, and usually have the means to attend to a classic properly. Wether that be a concours resto, or hybrid build. When I'm in SE Asia talking with Z Enthusiasts, in most places I'm conversing with Military Generals (Indonesia), or guys who's other cars are Ferraris or Bentley Turbo-R's (Japan)!
Closest to US style "everyman" owners is Australia or, oddly enough, Malaysia/Philippines from what I've experienced. Just getting into it in Thailand... There are Datsun Lovers there, I've seen them! And I already bought a 20' Container and had it placed where I can store treasure finds!
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It occurs to me that a mirror imaged S20 induction box would get some people scratching their heads...
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Standard stuff, a good tuned twin SU L20A or L20E should be very close to 90-95ps, but average streeters will run about 75-85ps.There are no secrets: the power is in displacement, headwork, cam...
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First incorrect ass u mption in this thread is that the valve cover is vented to air. It's not. Blu & NewZed got it right each in parts
The PCV SYSTEM keeps the crankcase under VACUUM at ALL TIMES.
Hence POSITIVE Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)...
If you read the FSM they explain the function of the manifold valve is to regulate and control how MUCH vacuum is supplied. Obviously at WOT there is NO vacuum in the manifold to positively evacuate the crankcase, and the valve shuts completely. Likewise due to internal machining on the body and the shuttle inside with combination with the spring, when at idle the valve is close to being fully closed to prevent entrainment of excessive oil into the manifold.
Where it's full open is under moderate throttle and load situations like light cruise, allowing medium vacuum in the manifold to draw from the top, filtered air into the crankcase and evacuating it through the combustion process. This happens because the vacuum present at the manifold is higher than the vacuum present in the intake at the front of the carbs or throttle body.
When you go WOT, or an ET goes on-boost, the PCV Closes and built up blobby crankcase pressure it evacuated by the low pressure present in the intake tract between the Air Filter and the Throttle Body. This is several inches of water vacuum, and effectively siphons out the then sealed crankcase to similar pressure if your rings are in decent shape.
Ideally the crankcase is maintained at marginally negative pressure of 1-4" WaterColumn at all iMessage. Generally without a plugged air liter you won't see that under WOT. You won't see that with a K&N in the stock housing nor with a similar substitute CAI due to the lower filter restriction.
Yes a CAI makes oil leaks...I digress...
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I've said it as long as the Internet has been commercial that a larger glass pack makes what normally a raspy popping eardrum buster into something that can be quieter than stock.
A 3" is fine if you can package it the way you want. Most loud exhausts are single can set ups.. Most will be tamed with a glass pack added in the proper place with minimal flow impact, if any.
EZ electric powersteering installed
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by Tony D
Collapsibility is accomplished in the Datsun unit by sliding splined shafts internally, and a rumpled outer housing... If the system merely bolts in between existing components, it's not changing anything in that respect to functionality.
But changing the outer tube may affect it. They do have "sliding bolts" under the column to dash attachment point to allow for limited rearward displacement of the column.
The Blue Turd was a theft recovery... It's outer tube is collapsed about 2", the lower bearing can fall out if I didn't glue it in place...