Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I refuse to use Twitterisms like "@Kash" but it should be inferred my reply (since I replied above earlier) is in response to the newest response...which doesn't state that.
Having work done on a linered head...
OK, suit yourself... But proper machine shop would check / tap these holes and pay particular attention to any previously installed Helicoils.Stripping out a Helicoil is EXTREMELY difficult unless you MASSIVELY overtorque the fastener.
Has nobody measured the tapped depth of the hole and seen if a 'deep Helicoil' can be installed in the threads deeper down the hole.
On an M8 Helicoil, they are ONLY 8mm Deep. That's all you need for full grip strength. On bare aluminum threads maybe more than that, but assuming the standard Helicoil was installed, then reefed out, a slightly longer bolt, along with a Helicoil at the bottom of the existing hole would do the job.
This is basic machine shop stuff. That the shop didn't know this is disappointing.
Pulling a locating dowel and re-reaming halfway through a Keen Sert is not a big deal, and I can't see why the OP is so resistant to doing this. We're talking a $50 repair to a head which I have to assume has $2,400 in head work by the way it's played up.
Seriously, if you got $350 into it for a valve job and a 'port cleanup' shelve it, get another, and save the head for when spending $50 for a repair on a Linered P79 makes economic sense.
You got $2400 into the head, this repair is a no brainer.
Does he have $2400 into the head? If not.....
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You need to state which year, they aren't all the same "75+"!
Some have welded pieces for bumper fillers, others have the same piece attached with M6 Bolts....
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Yup.
Very easy, unless you consider cutting up the body of the car difficult/painful to do. Still need to weld the tabs on the bottom of mine.
Leave it like that, and see if anybody notices...
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Jeebus who's been working on these heads?!?!?!?!
Put it on a shelf and get another from a JY while you still can. Later, the head can be machine repaired when there is no alternative.
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Check that the driveline is STRAIGHT between the tailshaft flange and the differential flange.
If there isn't a STRAIGHT and PARALLEL to each other, you will get this type of vibration.
Your hint was loosening the tailshaft mount cable. That altered the angle of the U-Joints in the driveline between tailshaft and differential.
My case was the transmission was 'walking' sideways, causing the vibration. Yours may not be deflecting sideways, but you may have (view the driveline from the side to visualize this) a tailshaft that when put up against a square on a chassis plate 89 degrees on it, and the RT mount from what I've been told pushes the nose of the differential down a few degrees (so using the same scale it would be at 94 degrees)... If those aren't parallel (in other words, both flanges at 89 degrees and concentric centerline to centerline, you will have this type of vibration.
ALIGNMENT more than BLANCE can make for terrible headaches here!
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I have no clue WTF is going on with the data entry field, but it's FUBAR and trying to 'fix' the post through editing just makes it worse!
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<div><br></div><div>That's a function of the cam more than the induction. There are thousands of cars out there in OEM configuration (including the original Z-Car in 165HP L24 Configuration) that used vacuum advance on their Mikunis... In fact there is a little green canister with a Nissan P/N (or Toyota if you prefer) that was used on some OEM Mikuni Applications to eliminate the issue of excessive or pulsating idle vacuum to the distributor. Just take it off the Mikuni's first barrel port, and go from there, no log required! Returned 28mpg at 65mph steady highway driving on a 2.4L with stock cam, 4.11 gearing, and an autobox. Spinning the dyno to around 163 (back in 1989 when Aftermarket EFI was still a rich man's game.)</div><div><br></div><div>Webers? Sorry, no advance port, but Solexes have one, and for good reason, at light cruise vacuum advance saves gas, and there is no reason not to use it!</div><div><br></div><div>But to answer 'which one' can only be answered: "Recurved"<br><br><br>There's not enough vacuum on the triples to properly make a vacuum advance work. <br></div>
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"Putting the Stand on the Engine is easier than putting the Engine on the Stand!"
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(Yawn) Lets angulate the penis and see how high on the fencepost we can go gentlemen...
Blah Blah Blah...
Take advice someone once gave me:
"It's not all that difficult, you can figure it out if you're smart enough!"
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5th spins the everything from the tailshaft back faster than the flywheel input speed. That points to driveline.
I'd check mounts and make sure everything is straight like it should be.
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It won't prevent it from working, but the Turbo ECU's are TERRIBLY sensitivity to low voltage and will FRY the injector drivers from over amperage if your charging system isn't up to snuff.
You don't "HAVE" to remove your external regulator. If you simply connect the stock ZXT Alternator you will have a helluva time flashing field, but if you drive the car daily or even weekly there is enough residual magnetism in the rotor core to excite the field by revving the engine to around 3K rpms. Once you do it first thing in the morning, it's good for the rest of the day, quick blip of the throttle and the alternator is producing.
I drove my 260 for almost 18 months like this until I had the time and found a spare regulator that was bad to construct the diode plug. I had a good regulator in there, and didn't want to cut the plug off of it to make the jumper and diode---it will tend to 'not shut off' because of the lack of a diode, but I'm tolerant...I would dump the clutch to kill the engine and then flip my battery disconnect switch while it was parked.
So yeah, do the modification. I wouldn't use the 260 alternator if I had a good internally regulated one from the L28ET already hung on the block! It's way better.
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I do the same thing as the two above!
Also, I have used a strap and come-along over a standard 2X4 Rafter Truss to lift the engine complete. I have a Truss-Roof Tuff-Shed that I use for Engine Assembly, and they arrive in pieces, and either go out on a stand to the pickup bed, or I put the strap over the truss and hang it till I drop it onto the Harbor Freight Rolling Cart (600# Capacity)
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"Might add that that RWD ToyoSubi coupe thing is selling like hot cakes in AU, to me it's a reincarnation of the S30 in concept, pricing.... Problem is that the AU market is nothing compared with the US so we can get a bit frustrated with what RWD coupes are available to us and at what price."
Let me cry crocodile tears for you sir....
A market with 22million people gets Holden Sports Utes with massive HP
A Ford Falcon Ute with a big inline six (also in their coupe/sedan), a TURBO INLINE SIX, and a V8.... (and a company history of favouring the inline six over the V8, Mad Max's Garage Partner nothwithstanding!)
The USA gets nothing.
GM-H was the ONLY profitable division in GM when they went bankrupt...
HUGE investment in motorsports and performance vehicle marketing specialty vehicle divisions that actually produce roadgoing cars...
And all sorts of Nissan Stuff not available here.
CALIFORNIA has 54 million people, WTF? WHY are we tethered to the Ossified Brains in Dearborn, The Ren Cen, and Aburn Hills? Why can't WE get a standalone division just like GM-H or Ford AU?
WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY!!!!!!!!???????
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Plenty of Motec out there on big HP setups. Cheap Shot.
Plenty of DCRE's out there at 1100 N/A HP running a carburettor, what's the point?
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Ditto the loctite comment, it releases it's hold at 400F...
As for not using lockwire on nuts...uh... "why not"? There are plenty of military assemblies with safety-wired nuts, though Grade-C locknuts make for quicker assembly.
If your nuts are coming loose, you are not properly torquing them to proper tension beforehand.
Got to the "Bolt Science" website, and run their example video of the "Junkers Test" to see why tightening a bolt properly is the ONLY mechanical method to prevent loosening, and why split lockwashers and most other lockwashers are a waste of time when it comes to high vibration assemblies.
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At the bottom of those now defunct Red Horse 12.5% Beers...
Duals...
Though I did have a 5M that ran triple 44IDF's!
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Flywheel and pressure plate need to be balanced and match-marked as a set...
I ditto that advice. I would look at the clutch cover closely! Chances are it is your culprit.
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"Valve Recession"--ideally your inspection/adjustment intervals would be at a point before there is zero clearance (from an engineering standpoint)... From a practical standpoint you want recession to be uniform on all cylinders and SLOOOOW!
The valves bang into the seat, and on a fresh engine can be quite profound. After the first 10K miles this should stop the radical changes and settle in to a normal recession range which means 0.002-0.003" per 25-30,000 miles (you convert to metric!)
If your valves become too tight, you get "hot valves" from not enough contact dwell time on the seat to transfer heat out of the valve, causing burning problems.
if it is uneven and continues unevenly after 10K miles...something is wrong. Maybe a valve stem is pulling, or a seat was not properly installed and is hammering out. It bears investigation.
Keep checking regularly every 500KM or so, until you see them even out and settle in to the 'long term' recession pattern.
Remember there was a 50,000 or so regular adjustment interval, that was for stock stock stock. Heavier springs and higher rpms may call for readjustment at 25 or 30,000 km instead of the original 50K
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Interesting 4bbl TB...
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Probably... but being in The Philippines, and those receipts being 'somewhere' at home I believe the quickest course of action would be to call and ask MSA...
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" Again, I'm so glad the BRZ is making such a splash and I hope they sell like hotcakes. "
IMO that is just another marketing branch for Subaru! (er...)
Subaru is a small niche maker. Rather than build more infrastructure for selling, they are peddling their wares to a mass-market manufacturer with their niche-market production economics.
Subaru is in hog heaven making more WRX's (er, BRZ's...) now than they ever IMAGINED at the outset.
There were people at Subaru USA that thought the WRX was a BAD IDEA because 'small powerful car' is just nothing that their market asked for.... Uh....
Not every pointy bearded suit with leather patches driver wants a WRX....
But there were PLENTY of other non-subaru owners champing at the bit to own one!
I remember when the WRX came out, I literally had the sales man screaming like a little girl and clutching the 'jesus handle' on my test drive with my wife and kid in the back seat (kid yelling 'Faster Daddy, Faster like at MSA!'
)Their marketing was totally wrong, reminiscent of Commodore Business Machines if they took over KFC and started the new "Warm Dead Bird" campaign...
The sales force had NO idea what they had... but QUICKLY adapted and EMBRACED the performance niche!
If only Nissan was so concerned about it's enthusiast customers and less so concerned about Brie and Wine these days celebrating their resurrection.
They THREW AWAY A MARKET THEY BASICALLY CREATED, and have NEVER made a SERIOUS ATTEMPT to get it back!
I mean SERIOUSLY... there was a point in time when in the halls of HQ in Gardena, NNA Executives considered SUING Z-CAR CLUBS because they were 'infringing on a trademark of NNA'.... How far did we stray from the target gentlemen? How sad a commentary that someone like that exists in an executive capacity at a so-called CAR company!
FOR SHAME!
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"As to why the pilots need to be 1 or 1.5 turns out, nobody really told me the reasoning why, but I think it has to do with the adjuster screw getting far enough away from the pilot that it's essentially wide open, so that more adjusting isn't really doing anything."
It's the linear taper of the adjusting screw compared with the size of the hole it's going into. (Please forgive me if this sounds a bit geekish...but here goes:)
The pilot jet feeds both the idle screw, and the transition ports.
Your fuel supplied by the idle port (throttles near closed and no transition ports exposed to vacuum) is the area supplied by the annular area difference between the volume the screw takes up compared to the size of the hole. You ONLY want enough passing through that annular area enough volume to allow the combined area of all transition ports to be less than the annular area of the pilot jet you install for the vacuum you apply. (Same as the SU Jet Fueling Characteristic when calculating 'station position' at each step in the taper.)
Meaning, if you pull more out than 1-1.5 turns, you have as Jon said, 'basically opened the hole fully" and aren't going to be able to supply transition ports with proper fueling. Back it out two or three turns compare the thread pitch, and you can see where you are on your needle taper compared to only 1 turn out.
BASICALLY what this means is at one turn out, and a BIG JET, you have very little annular space in which to supply fuel, and you therefore allow FAR MORE FUEL to be added during TRANSITION AND OFF IDLE than at idle. This allows you great flexibility in tuning idle mixture, and gives you far less chance of transitional or tip-in bog from enleanment when opening the throttles off idle and before main transition.
As you see, the larger you are going on the pilot jet, and the further closed you are getting the idle screw, the better your tip in transition is getting. This is my feeble attempt to try and explain the mechanics of what is happening and what the engineers at Mikuini had in mind.
I owned countless Toyota 2TG and 18RG engines with factory Toyota OEM Triples, and they ALL acted the EXACT same way: more than 1 to 1.5 turns out on the idle screw and you were flooded pig rich at idle and encountered transitional bogging or popping. You would think the screw being opened more would be a 'zero sum game' but apparently it's not. The transition ports give FAR more annular area for fuel dumping during tip-in than is available from the single annular area around the idle screw.
I hope that made sense...
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Z32 Bodies fit easily enough when you replace the stock phenolic spacers with a 25mm thick adapter plate allowing whatever bolt pattern you want to use, sharing as many common bolts as you wish.
Z32TB's have a nice centre linkage which can be shortened to retain synch feature and almost literally bolt right on (other then modifying the centre linkage for distance between T/B's)
But why stick on duals? Put a plenum on there of 1.5 X Engine Displacement, and a Mazda two-barrel throttle body (twin 45mm I think, and also a progressive option if you look...) would make plumbing that LPG system easier!
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Define "overheated"!It's an oft-misused term by many a noob...
OK, suit yourself... But proper machine shop would check / tap these holes and pay particular attention to any previously installed Helicoils.
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Cam tower bolt stripped - what to do?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Tony D
And I don't know what "Precision Machine Shop" means, as any guy with a Bridgeport Mill and Starrett Last Word indicator can do the setup on this repair after half a bottle of Jack Daniels and a weekend in Vegas...
There are more than enough NC Shops in Illinois (well, maybe not Rantoul...) to do this work.
A PHOTO should be worth a thousand words on this one...
As I can't see how all this work was done and 'Poor Helicoils' went undetected until assembly!
<div><br></div><div>Were I doing this in the back shed:</div><div><br></div><div>Measure pin bore.</div><div>Set up on pin bore centerline.</div><div>Drill / Ream for Keen Sert & Install.</div><div>Top Cut appropriately for bottom of Pin Bore</div><div>Bore Oversize for Locally-Fabricated Step-Pin</div><div>Install Step Pin</div><div>Reassemble...</div><div><br></div><div>Maybe more than an hour, forgot to take step-pin into consideration...but then again, making a SOLID over sized threaded-in Step-Pin to locate the tower is more involved (permanent, too, as the external threads on the lower portion of the step pin and inner threads for the bolt will NEVER come out or strip! But I digress...</div><div><br></div><div>This is all basic machine shop stuff. There is no 'specialty shop' required. Just a 'competent' one!<img src="http://forums.hybridz.org/public/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif" alt="<_<" class="bbc_emoticon"></div>