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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

    How to check quench distance?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Of course they will say it's fine.

     

    They aren't paid to cut the pistons to THEIR specifications, they were to cut the to YOUR specifications.

     

    They failed to do that, and turned a piston into scrap according to YOUR specifications.

     

    Tell them they can put the piston in THEIR engine if they think it's fine, but they still owe you a piston.

     

    Doesn't matter WHO supplied them, THEY screwed up your part. They should replace it.

    TAS 2012!!!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Tonight, Okamura informed me since I was working up until the 13th on this emergency job in Tokyo, that this weekend he would be taking me to TAS on the company's tab for 'entertainment' as he was once again assinged the unenviable task of entertaining the Gaijin while he is in town.

     

    They really have to twist his arm, ever since he found out I'm Kyu-sha-jin his entertainment receipts have been ridiculous! :D

     

    And when this was posted, I was still looking forward to three more days off. Instead the next day I jumped a flight to Tokyo and have been arms-deep in work until just now.

     

    Dude, PM me, we can meet if we are there on the same day! ;)

    How to check quench distance?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Your machinist buys you a new piston, machines it correctly, and gives it to you as compensation for his error, and his error alone.

     

    Otherwise, you take your parts and don't pay him.

     

    Isn't that the way things are done in Europe?

    If this was in Germany, the machinist would have been apologising that the new replacement piston wasn't already there, and have refunded your money as a general principle for failing in the most basic of apprenticeship skills: Marking those bits with their completed machining numbers!

     

    :angry:

     

    Mistakes will happen, there is ABSOLUTELY NO REASON that you should have to pay for it though.

     

    He owes you a piston, machined properly.

    Cooling 101

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Check the aero thread/forum, likely you can greatly reduce potential inflow with proper ducting and exit management.

     

    The Euro Turbo cars had a 100% ducted radiator on the S130, plastic duct attached to the front of the radiator and a small flexible duct attached to it and the air entrance point in the front lower fascia.

    TAS 2012!!!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    TOKYO AUTO SALON/SHOW

     

    "TAS"

     

    Generally early in the year with most aftermarket manufacturers represented with all their wares on display.

     

    Okamura just emailed and inquired about my schedule this month, oh to be in Tokyo/Yokohama for the Odaiba Swap Meet on the 29th!

    Cooling 101

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    Thermal mass is overlooked continually in these discussions, and leads to some vehemently defending theories which seem to make sense when looked at superficially, but lead to very poor design changes in practice.

    It goes hand in hand with the fact that water isn't the sole coolant in any engine.

    Is this a good deal?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I bought a built engine from a guy once. Refused to pay a premium for it. Some time later doing som leak repair I was more than shocked to find there actually WERE forged slugs, lightened rods and performance cam in the thing.

     

    Of course I took PHOTOS of it all apart so if I ever sell, I got proof other than my word!

    l28 and zx 5spd into 70 240z

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Outside the USA, the five speeds were packaged with 3.9 or higher gears. Doesn't change fuel mileage but does make for a fun ride.

    The early 5-Speed in my car with an L28 and 3.90 is a great combination.

     

    In a car with an L24 I'd go with the 4.11, makes highway cruising effortless, and normal passing doesn't require changing down two gears llike when a 3.36 is in there!

    ECU needs exact replacement?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    82/83 ECU/AFMs are identical. If you have a 'matched pair' then chances are good any issues you have are in the harness, and not the pair.

     

    But they are not 'matched' in any way. I have seen BMW AFM's attached to JECS ECU's. Resistance is resistance. Just make sure the pin compatibility is there, and you can basically put any AFM from any car onto any other.

    help identifing a Garrett turbocharger and possible use on l28et

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Anaerobic Sealants are more reliable on step-rabbet fit machined surfaces than any composition gasket-or O-Ring ever could be...

     

    If there is leakage at all! Metal-to-Metal will keep low pressure air contained pretty handily. In fact, when you get into High Pressure Helium (smallest molecules, easiest to leak) almost exclusively metal-to-metal or metal crush gaskets are utilized as they are the only thing that will stop the leakage!

    280Z does not start....

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    If you TRULY "knew" the Mustang EFI from 90-2000 you would NOT say what you said about the Bosch Gen2 License unit in your Z!

     

    There is FAR more going on in a modern system than on the Early S30's!

     

    And the building blocks, fundamentals of how each works are identical: Airflow, Fuel pressure biasing, Air Temp,, Water Temp, basic throttle position, and engine speed. That's IT for the S30.

     

    The Ford EEC adds to that specific throttle position, spark control, fuel trim feedback short and long term, O2 Feedback correction, active idle speed control, active EGR Control, catalytic action feedback loop, and remote monitoring/logging...

     

    I think I'm smelling disingenuity here to some extent.

     

    This is a basic system, checks should take along the lines of 45 minutes and encompass basic mechanical/electrical baseline checks like on any vehicle.

     

    If it's going longer than this, from my experience you have walked righ to the problem, looked righ at it, then convinced yourself that couldn't be it and moved on to another line of troubleshooting to no avail.

     

    I've watched this happen since I started doing diagnostic work on vehicles and equipment in 1979. I lay money it's the case here. Troubleshooting doesn't mean guessing and replacing, it means quantifying and verifying BEFORE substitution/replacement. If you change it and it doesn't fix it, then that was NOT the problem. (This may seem to be stating the obvious, but...) but now you have a different component which has likely not been checked in the system-better off with the old component back in place until all checks and resolution of the problem.

     

    Final bit of advice: START AT SQUARE ONE, go from there. Basic engine tune-up - meaning valve adjustment, compression check, spark plugs with the gaps correctly set (and likely WIRES), FRESH GAS and filters is how you start the process if it's giving you problems. The diagnosis routine is in the EFI Bible, and the FSM-it clearly quantifies every component in the system, where it is, and EXACTLY how to test it...as well as what is "good." or "bad."

     

    Like I said, resolution of a no-start where you check EVERY component in the system takes about 45 minutes, wether the car has sat for a day or 14+years in a field. I pull these out of barns and fields all the time... I take the book, lay it out, start at the beginning and as yet it has NEVER taken more than 45 minutes to check EVERYTHING and have a car that runs. You're in there with the meter, check it ALL once. Then formulate the resolution.

     

    The EFI Bible and early FSM was formulated for mechanics who had NO electronics training and worked on American cars with Carbs. As such it is VERY comprehensive in scope. The reason it's not a 2" thick coffeetable book like a 94 GM or Ford EFI Manual SET (yes, there are TWO BOOKS!) is in reality this system is VERY basic, there is not a lot going on, and there are only a handful of things that could cause a problem.

     

    Like I said several times now...those things take about 45 minutes to check following the FSM test procedures. Check them, trust your instruments, find the issue and fix it.

     

    And the reason I fixate on 45 minutes so much is I had NEVER evev looked at an S130 system before, and I dragged one home out of a field where it had sat for 14 years. After I installed a battery and disassembled the ignition switch so I could crank the car I set my stopwatch...42 minutes later from a fuel can beside the car it was running and moveable under it's own power. In retrospect I realised that was about average to go from total unknown to known on these systems.

     

    It's not rocket science, but it does take logical progression of workflow, and a disciplined approach to problemsolving...and adherence to the FSM testing procedures with the ability to not talk oneself out of a quick diagnosis of a bad part with "it can't be that easy" rationalisations. In my experience with these systems...it CAN, indeed, "be that easy"!

     

    Good Luck.

    Camshaft

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    The cam gear end looks to have two standard spring retainers, while the others appear to have anodized aluminum spring retainers. I can't see how they could be that light colored, with the front two (#1 Cyl) the typical 'dark steel' look of standards... :huh:

     

    I would look if the valves are the same in all cylinders, and then compare the weights of the retainers and even springs.

     

    Something went on with #1 by the looks of it to me! :(

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