Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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A lathe lets you make them quite handily out of all the 32 & 34's that are laying around...
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Happy Festivus, for the rest of us...
When are the Airing of Grievances and Feats of Strength scheduled to take place, BTW?
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HERE you go. Bunch of teases on here!
Edit: Just for fun, anyone know anything about this car?
All I know is it's owned by a guy named Yasu Kohara.
I know that car!
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There are those that feed the children with a spoon, there are others that let them cry.
They'll figure it out after they realize crying doesn't get them anything.
As long as they have to pick the spoon up themselves!
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Lawyers can be insulted?
I guess mentioning "Pro Bono" might do it...
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That is a nice consideration your girlfriend gave to Mr. K.
Believe me this is NOT the typical case, he gets all sorts of stuff all the time, and many times sends it back at his own expense.
Kudos to her for the consideration and forethought!
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KILLER DEAL! It will fit in the Minivan if you can take your back seat out. Though it's better between the axles.
I got my Atlas 6" lathe home by removing it from it's stand.
Same for the Bridgeport, I knocked down the head down to the base/table so I could lift it off with the gantry at the house!
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I know that car...
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"Poor radiator airflow control will lead to temperature pulsing within the engine which is not optimal."
And WHY would that be, if the thermostat was 'functioning properly' BJ?
PERHAPS it would be because btu rejection would exceed btu input and cause warmup/temperature control problems?
Should I cut down all the trees so you can see the forest? It is out there, trust me, you just need to see it!
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Stock flow diverter valve can be removed and a small K&N filter placed on that vapor recovery line (or left on if you want to buy two K&N's...) In it's original configuration it let pressure built up in the tank relieve to the crankcase (gas fumes to be sucked up and burnt at startup-it was a one-way valve, while driving down the road it would revert to the Air Cleaner to allow for vacuum break action on the tank as the fuel level was lowered from driving.
Without it, and with properly sealed tank, you can suck the filler neck down FLAT and eventually get no fuel to the engine due to the high vacuum in the tank from loss of fuel through consumption.
If crankcase vacuum is applied to the fuel tank, the valve is broken, or hooked up improperly.
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Smithy's will keep their value, they sell used almost for what they sell for used. HF Makes a knockoff of them as well.
The milling machine from HF is like anything else they have, you got to disassemble it, clean it, and readjust it all to make it tight and hold tolerance. If you can get it used from someone who already did that for you, you're set.
The Smithy's are on sale new for around 2100 for the combination machine. It's a lifetime investment. Really I should have probably bought one of those instead of a fullsize bridgeport and 17X48 Milacron Lathe. Setting up three phase at the house sucks! (Phase Converter!)
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"In cold weather the over cooled charge of water would shock the engine."
How does it 'overcool' if the thermostat is working?
You're digging deeper and deeper BJ...
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Another thing to add is you can usually swap switches from year to year within the early-late model groups simply by resoldering the wires for the correct plug onto the switch. This also works when you use LHD Switches in RHD Assemblies (which works wonderfully!)
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"The radiator baffles were to keep the exit temps from the radiator closer to engine operating temps."
Think about that....just think about what you just admitted BJ.
Let me give you a hint:
Thermal Input not exceeding Thermal Rejection results in no net temperature rise.
But I conceded it's the thermostat and that you're right. I would just hope you would let it drop instead of continuing to give me golden nuggets of your anecdotal wisdom that reinforce my incorrect analysis...
And the baffles I mentioned were the THERMOSTATIC BAFFLES on the AIR OUTLET of an AIR COOLED Continental-Lycoming PE150. It was so cold, without ANY airflow through or across the cooling system (save for leaks from the shrouds which can be considered nil) the engine would not warm to a point where ANY flow across the fins was necessary. Thermal Input not exceeding passive radiation losses.
Uh, kinda like your big rig radiator story...
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I had one I would have given you once I snagged the collet holder and light off of it. It came in a lot of stuff I purchased from a local shop. I wanted the 17X48 Milacron Lathe and Pallet Racks. The Trailer to move it and the Bridgeport J came in for the ride (Won on a sealed $800 bid...a down economy sucks eh?)
Actually I thought I was just bidding on the Pallet Racks and Lathe. I left the mill there and never went back. Had I known someone wanted one...
Then again, shipping it to NY...
If you can find a used Smithy, that is a niiiice little machine!
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Yes, the power comes in the 'ground' terminal of the headlight connection, and filament 'hot' is grounded through the dimmer switch to the master ground on the column.
This is EXACTLY OPPOSITE of how most everybody else does it! The single pin is a common ground (where we have hot) and then they power the respective filament for either high or low beam.
Most headlight relay setups swap to that configuration when you install them (which is really what you should do to keep all that amperage from being switched by the contacts directly in that little column switch!)
Relays run about 0.5-1.0A, as opposed to 10A and up for direct switching of the headlights. The repair you just did will last a LOT longer if you can swap to relay control of the headlights now, while everything is cleaned, fresh, and working correctly!
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Nice edit BJ.
I can see this is another exhaust manifold issue for you, cut and dried and no consideration for any other possibility...so you win. It's his thermostat, the one he tested as suggested and found good.
It must be magic in that case...
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You have the exact same fueling conditions as he does?
You can parse it to a single component if you wish...
I wouldn't do that.
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You have hit on the biggest advantage of the boost bleed.
Lower RPMs at higher boost outside the minim flow surge line.
You will never get that with "wastegate only control"!
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I was more getting at the 240 - 260/280 differences.
Indeed something changed as later boxes didn't routinely melt like early boxes did. So obviously something changed.
But it does look like ground switching is still being accomplished. The probing at headlight socket can prove confusing and misleading to actual circuit function/configuration as normally power is switched.
Proper probing of the socket. For instance requires clipping the ground lead into the ground socket to get actual light voltage available. The "dim light" is almost always found with this
Method, whereas probing the socket to local chassis ground gives "good power everywhere"...
And that ground point may change depending on what position the dimmer is...
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In my first post on this thread, I stated that Stonewall won't break things.
Recent activities in China have led me to qualify that statement to be "INTERMITTENT and even SUSTAINED Stonewall operation generally won't break things"
For the purposes of this discussion the original statement is correct. But blade tears from light wheels, wheels not shot peened and stress relieved, or simply just not robust can be damaged from prolonged, sustained Stonewall operation.
In 28 years of doing Centrifugal Compressors, I've seen more blade tears this year in China than the entire prior time. And then, only with one manufacturer... I still haven't seen a stonewall damaged impeller from the first company I worked for, and they don't even worry about Stonewall operation.
So there you have it. Nothing changed, but technically if you have a light wheel or impeller blade, the stresses in stonewall can excite a frequency and cause them to fail. But not especially applicable to this discussion.
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No.
If you have that much oil, your separation system is inadequate, or your engine is shot and you need to rebuild it.
Don't assume things on full-race engines are applicable to daily or even semi-used street cars.
Even Top Fuel Dragsters run Vac-U-Pans (which is a way to ventilate it and not get any oil mist into the intake, BTW...)
Some run small vacuum pumps to insure negative pressure in the crankcase. For them, it's quantifiable horsepower they can see running such a system.
Don't be in such a rush to discard or dismiss it's benefits.
The biggest being the great reduction for possible leaks from a marginally sealed engine, and contaminant removal from the crankcase.
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I think some credit and thanks needs to go to Mr. K as well!
At 103 years young, he took some of the limited time he has left on the planet to do this for you.
I know some people that would have simply tossed it in the trash and thought nothing of it...
Was it return post paid? My bet is likely Mr. K paid to send it back to her, for you!
"Thanks Mr. K!"
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B.J. I don't know what you're driving at, but:
"If radiation losses are more than heat input ... You don't warm up! "
This is simple thermodynamics. Please enlighten me as to your exemption from the physical laws so we all may have benefit of it!
This is not rare, nor complex. It is very simple.
It's so simple, many overlook it.
Perhaps you have, living in a perpetually warm climate.
US 240z at Monte Carlo in January
in Non Tech Board
Posted
The car bought in the Barn was the car that placed 4th in 71 monte Carlo, it sits now at a Dutch pig barn. It was more than 10K€ when bought. The owner is on this forum.
The 72 monte Carlo winner is in the Yokohama HQ building last year this time, I spent three hours outside the ropes photographing it. It went back to the Zama Museum. That would leave the 70 or 73 entrant as the one you talked with. Not sure what you're asking exactly... Is WHO on the forum.. The guy that bought the 71 4th place finisher out of the barn?