Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Or you could have fittings for the manifold cut 1/8 NPT on one end with a 10 or 14 mm o-ring end on the other like the back side of an o-ring injector and then your manifold log fits just like it dies on top of injectors... That short enough?
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0.034" is quite a bit different than 0.003"
BHJ is an alternative, or ATI. or a try again at MSA...
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Rebuilt engine with new super doopet racing pump springs? Stack of shims in there locking it up?
I'm with the last, this is easily checked without shotgunning a pump at it and possibly causing more issues. Sounds like the pump is fine... Why replace it?
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I replied on your other thread. The 1/8" NPT holes will accept a fitting with a 1/4" diameter through-hole and 5/16" barb if you can find them (like I did)...
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I just shipped my Mikuni Manifold off and was reminded that I had barbs with a FULL 1/4" inside diameter hole in them (and used 5/15" fuel line), which fit on the stock Mikuni 1/8 NPT tapped holes in the manifold. It went to a -6 runner, but it will now be a -8 to better modulate pulsation for installation of the MAP sensor.
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"Other than that, the 78 door will attach to the 74 hinges and fit in the opening. Been done many times."
Do you have any photos of this conversion? I swear the inner panel of the 78 door is about 1.5-2" longer as it's a captive internal latch that the striker goes into, as opposed to pre-6/76 doors which are 'shorter' in this area due to having an exposed latch with the catchplate on the B-Pillar.
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Mentos and Coke Zero...
(Google it, prototypes exist!)
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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Why couldn't you?
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cool, like groovy man!
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Unique...
TDI from a BMW or VW...
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Makes me feel like Cold Ethyl...
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Those are aftermarket parts supplied through alternate sources...
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Yep, the late S31 series cars (75-78 280Z's) weren't light. The 79 Standard ZX was actually a lighter car!
But the weight got packed on fast in the ZX.
My 1976 FAIRLADY Z 2/2 weighed in at SanAntonio Dragway with 255# me inside it at 2695#, putting the car at 2440# without me and a full tank of gasoline.
If it's 2965# (as some have suggested) then I have a 200+ RWHP Stock L28 because the car was running all night long (26 passes in all) at 15.50-15.60 at 88-89+ mph...
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center section was always branded Garret AirResearch.
the scrolls were the Nissan-Specific Parts.
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"If not please spoon me..."
It's all in the appropriate section, spend some time here reading, your questions are all answered.
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BTW, an 83 ZXT can be quite a pig, over 3000# depending on drivers weight...
A 73 240 is not the lightest but with some early model doors and suitably bumpered, 2400 is pretty easy to do.
My Full-Weight 73 240Z was a pig with my swinish countenance in it, and 100+ in the 1/4 was not difficult at all without an intercooler and some basic old-school tweaks.
The ZXT the donor engine came from seemed to struggle to break 80-85 before the swap. The 240 was alive compared to the ZXT. and it came further alive once I got the 3.70 into it later on... The 240 still had the 3.36 gears at that time!
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Yep, a 240Z with some attention paid to weight and a stock L28ET suitably attended to (some more boost, not necessarily an intercooler) is easily a 13 second car. 12's is possible. Very possible.
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Coupe or 2+2? it makes a difference. Hope you two are on the same page circumventing the classifieds...
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LOL, that is about what it looked like on the expressway, too. Looks much worse in the slow mover! Hehehehehe
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My stock 260ZT won't reach temp idling, period. I have to drive it to get a tempersture above around 150. Idling in the driveway with the Nissan CHT, it won't get Ho 160 unless I put some sort of load on the car. Drive half a mile down the road and I'm regulated nicely between 165-170.
But idling? Sits at 150-153 forever on am 80-05 degree day. Likely lower colder...
Heater on "Heat" with no fan will bump the nber somewhat.
That's reading it on the MS Datalogger and Megatune.
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Several things:
Yes, summer and winter thermostat.
The temp should NOT go to 210 in Yhe summer if you have sufficient rejection on the radiator. If I can tow a trailer uphill with a three core at 85mph in 115-120F Palm Springs Desert Heat, and keep ROCK STEADY temps WITHOUT the 5/6 mod...you should have no issues at all! Remember the mod DECREASES the differential between front and back of the engine, it doesn't completely eliminate it. If you're 210 at the thermostat, you're 215-220 at Thr back of the head. That can still cause issues if you don't have at least a 16# radiator cap.
Did you route the 5/6 mod to be controlled by the thermostat, or put it to the upper portion of the thermostat, bypassing it? JeffP made his block for the wYet from that point to come either spot by changing the thermostat position-there was an issue when we didn't have them controlled by the thermostat.
This post would be a good addition to the sticky on the mod in the FAQ/Stickies forum.
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Avid does in Spain...but for the extra 5€ TAKE THE BMW 320d over the Jetta EVERY time!!'
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Unless you have your own dedicated container, I'd seriously recommend having the parts physically ON (as in installed) the car when you ship it for both Revenue Bureau scrutiny, and reducing the chance of nice new parts "evaporating" during shipment.
If it's RORO, have the car complete when you drop it at the shipment point.
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Oh, stock Todd will stretch, but unless you are at 8000+ I'd not consider it much...
My boso pipe...
in Exhaust
Posted
How that work for the fume issue? Looks about 1m short to be classified true Bozuka... Maybe glorified rice...
Hehehe