Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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No, not at all like that, the ERV is a dumb valve meant as emergency relief, not process control! You are very incorrect about your thoughts on heat production and flow.
This is extensively discussed, and I'm not going to repeat it.
Please refer to the archived section of posts at the top of the board, you will find it there.
If a compressor is producing more boost than it's supposed to at one RPM but not another...it's going on and off it's curve. The engine's consumption is linear. The turbos is not unless regulated. If you have creep, your compressor section is oversized the turbine section is undersized, or there is another mismatch somewhere given the design point on the engine.
As to this:
"I'd rather control boost entirely from the exhaust side. "
You are trying to control the boost with the 1960's Era design paradigm... Alas killing dinosaurs is more difficult than it appears. Come into technology from the 1990's at least.
As I said, this is all extensively discussed and I've repeated far too much as it is.
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I found that firing the engine up with oil on the rusty lobes pretty much clears it up as well...
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nice post, are you sure you are correct on the routing of the power though?
Battery, Fusibles, Fuseblock, Fuses, Headlight, Switch, Master Ground on the Steering Column is I think correct.
This may have changed on later models, to prevent the fuses from burning out like in the early cars...but both my 76 and 77 have had the 'dead light' syndrome from the corroded master ground connection under the combo switch which leads me to think Nissan still was switching the ground side of the filaments and sending fused power to the socket directly from the box.
Don't have my diagram to consult, but I'm pretty sure that's it. If someone could post the wiring/schematic and solve the riddle posed, please?
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What you want to find (depending on the condition of motor mounts and how much torque you are making) is what is called a "Hump Hose" to replace that straight piece.
I've see straight conversions like this pull out on torqueover. They DO make silicone hump hoses, and they perform the exact same function as the accordion pleats in the original boot. You still need a tapered transition, and a coupler pipe, but then the engine can move (and uh...even hit the hood when the engine mount fails...) and the boots just flex and stay attached.
With poly captive mounts, or solid mounts of course this is not a factor.
As for the "I just just put a plug in your PCV and a breather on the crank case. Problem solved."
I would say except for the oil mist mess you create, as well as not really evacuating the crankcase of moisture on short trips, etc etc etc...
Retention of some sort of POSITIVE crankcase ventilation is beneficial from many standpoints. The days of the Road Draft Tube are long gone!
Unless you like oil haze blowing around your engine bay that is...
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Whomever you talked to at MSA is feeding you a line of ignorant bullshite. This is SUPPOSED to be a 'bolt on' part. NO MACHINING REQUIRED.
If you call the people they buy the pulley assembly from, they will say as much as well (been there, done that!)
Where are you in Wisconsin? I have a VERY tight schedule...but... I'm going to PM you something. Take the time to read it! Maybe I can help.
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Mobile version doesn't have edit, either...
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I want to address something about the "obviousness" of the problem.
Water is not the ONLY method to cool the engine. Oil as well as air contribute to this.
An example of this is the Caddy V8 that runs up to 55mph on NO WATER COOLING by simply shutting off one bank of cylinders, and alternating banks. What function does the thermostat play there?
I recently rented a Ford Escape, idling in my brothers driveway at 41F with the heater on, no appreciable heat was produced. Putting the car in drive and driving to the end of the block after it had idled for over 25 minutes got the heater pumping out heat like crazy.
Be open to the fact that an engine at idle may well not put enough BTU load into the cooling SYSTEMS of the engine that the WATER system may not warm to operational level due to the simple fact that radiation from the block to the air, and from the oil to the air from the pan may be enough to cause this to happen.
When Lycoming PE150's were operated at -65F in Alaska their air cooling baffles were completely closed. Our diesels there NEVER got to operational temperature unless under nearly full load. Heat in the jeep cabins was only possible if you covered BOTH sides of the radiator with sheetmetal or cardboard!
It is possible. If radiation losses are more than heat input ... You don't warm up!
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You can dump excess boost overboard from a mismatched compressor to accomplish this as well...
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Spool on piping volume after boost threshold is reached in times reaching 0.0x of seconds.
For all intents and purposes it's not worth considering.
It's a holdover from 60's systems and improper driving technique...
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You can't? Oh crap...
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Less than two years ago on the shortening. Last December for the "two for one".
Off Smith & Commerce in Corona, or up in Ontario off Guadti. If you want Aluminum or CF, you have to go to the one in Ontario.
They are the place that makes the MSA aluminium shafts (at least they were), and you see them in Jegs, Summit, etc: "IEDLS"
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Gotta love autocorrect on the iPhone, eh?
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Ahhh the wonderful aftermath of the shotgun approach...
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"Low Thermal Input"---this is VERY common in Diesel Trucks as well. During the winter they literally have to block the radiator as ANY circulation outside the block itself will result in the engine running stone cold. If you only have the stock gauge it will not look like you aren't up to temperature. But reading a megasquirt datalog or megatune, you see you are exactly 143.7F (or whatever C) and start asking 'why'...
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I tried posting photos of what I mean but it was excruciating when the iPhone apparently crashed when posting it. No time to do it again!
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Your convinced, change it. Report Results. I don't see it, but it's your car.
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Modeling clay doesn't require a freezer or sunny day.
And afterwards you can make little horsies and doggies for the shelves around the shop and tell everyone your kid did it...
Or so I'm told.
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$50 at Inland Empire Driveline Service. Dropped it off on the way into work, picked it up at lunchtime balanced and repainted.
Making "one from two" was a little more since they supplied the new Chevy Tranny Yoke as well as a set of new U-Joints, $150 in 3" tubing. If I'd had the tranny yoke i believe it was $35 or $45 less. Basically weld the Datsun end on one end of the new 3" tube, and the Chevy end on the other. Straight steel driveshafts are CHEAP to get made. And quick!
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I got a dust cover on mone somehow...
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The "obviously malfunctioning thermostat" is overstressing it... If someone has drilled that 2mm bleed hole into the 160 thermostat, doesn't have the back of the block bypass line utilising only the internal block recirculation line and has efficient combustion with low thermal load.... That little 2mm burp hole just may vermouth to keep the engine from warming up. I don't see appreciable flow my radiator at cold startup idle.
Sure, a thermostat held open when ALL the bypass lines are recirculating to the pump inlet to warm the engine might not warm up. Bit cap those bypasses and only keep the internal 8-10mm line and maybe one through the turbo?
Perfectly sealed thermostat with that 2mm hole may make warmup at idle speed quite difficult indeed.
But the solution is obvious: test Yhe thermostat see if it works/seals... If it does, come back, report, and boisterously gloat with satisfaction ad the experts get upset and tell you that you must be missing something else...or that it's just plain impossible!
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Yep, it ain't rocket science.
Actually, if you have one of the Caswell home plating kits, you got most of what you need.
I was taking manifolds (headers for example) de rusting them via this method, and then directly plating them for storage.
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It is a very rare thing indeed when a properly installed filter and base gasket "blows out" without bulging the filter housing.
They mak an aluminium ring that makes the o-ring on the filter base "blowout proof", as well.
You have EXCESS oil pressure. That tells me the PUMP is pumping just fine. As Josh surmises, maybe a relief valve is doing something...but is the filter housing bulged? If not, with a PH8A, then it's installation.
As mentioned above, putting the bearings in can block galleries... But it should wreck in short order. It was running "fine" before as stated, sosomething is missing. Not in flow production (pump), but in flow restriction engine.
Assuming proper filter installation, that is..,
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Even when I "know" I usually still measure.
Why nix the dust cap?
If you are 1/2-3/4 engaged relative to the spline length, you are fine. There is no real axial movement like on a live axle car.
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I've 225+K on mine, put one sender in, then another shortly thereafter. Apparently the senders freak out if the engine isn't totally warm and you slug it with colder oil and pressures above the range of the transmitter (which mine still will do, at 6500)
Hot, maybe 75-85# at that same rpm.
Shows effectively nothing at idle.
A mechanical gauge is your friend in this case.
Intercooler questions
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
It's Christmas Break....
Semi-Annual Paradigm Reinforcement Time
We'll see it again in the Spring.
The biggest pressure drop in the whole setup is at the THROTTLE PLATES. Most people mistakenly think that they are boosting 7PSI at the turbo and getting 5PSI in the plenum but NEVER drill and tap the hole before the throttle plate to see that it's 7PSI there as well.
You loose more pressure across the opened throttle plate than any piping that is properly (see above, 2.5 or even 2" below 500WHP) sized. It's a toss between I/C and Throttle Plate at WOT for biggest restriction in the system.
Below 100% WOT, hands down it's the Throttle Plate!
I stand corrected if you guys are running Jenvey Barrel Throttles, but I highly doubt you are...