Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Can you datalog both upstream and downstream of the fuel filter?
I agree with Pyro, there is a lot of fuel that can be thrown at an L-Series at peak torque, and that's usually around 4500, after that point you can pull fuel like crazy (I have seen mid 13's on boost!) and you just keep making horsepower.
Then again, I guess you have to be able to pull through peak torque to the point where you can pull fuel, eh?
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"If I were to source a new or used transmission to get the car on the road, while on a trip, then the modified shift rod is just one more custom part to be R&R'd."
EXACTLY why you should machine the casing for the larger bearing, and poke the rod holes bigger at the same time. If you source a new or used transmission, you simply pull off your existing bellhousing and DIRECTLY fit it to the front of the new unit and reinstall.
If you do NOT machine for the larger bearing, then you have a bearing you have to change on the roadside as well!
Yes, Ray's poke a few holes approach may open an alternate tranny for use... But I don't see RB 20 Trannies floating around all that much.
I don't know of a single machine shop that would 'drill' those shift rod holes on a press, either. It's all Bridgeport work, and in todays shops, NC-Precision Bridgeport work.
Hell, at my HOUSE it's Bridgeport work!
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Egads, the censor-bot won't let you say wh o re... even in self-deprecating statements... How curious!
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The ONLY way to know is to CALL REBELLO.
Anything else 'my quote was X', 'my quote was y' is all internet jerking off. You won't know until you call with YOUR requirements and let Dave tell you the way he thinks you should proceed.
Many times people calling in with a specific list of requirements inflate a job cost over just simply giving final end-use requirements and letting Dave figure out a combination that should work best for you.
This happens all the time in my industry too. I can sell a $250,000 compressor which will give the EXACT SAME AIRFLOW AND QUALITY as a unit that costs $12,000,000 (this is NOT an exaggeration!)....
But a customer comes to us with a specification, and we will build to it. Because we meet THEIR specification WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS they will buy from us for $12,000,000 rather than spend a FRACTION of that for another machine with a list of 'Exceptions to Specification' 4" thick. Often we get the comment "you're the only RFQ Respondent that met ALL of our specification without any exceptions!"
Sure, we'll build ANYTHING you want...just a matter of how much you want to pay! I'm a compressor *****, what can I say?
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Sounds like a fuel-flow problem to me...like possibly a clogged fuel filter making the pump's internal bypass lift!
Check the fuel pressure UPSTREAM of your fuel filter.
The conditions you describe are EXACTLY what happened to JeffP at the Jim Wolf Dyno Run. Car was fine to 5500 rpms, and then at 5525 WHAM like a rev limiter. Everybody was puzzled and then the car just stopped. Pulled the dissy cap and found the rotor 180 out! Jim says "Well, we know it didn't drive down here like that!" and the search was on: drive gear on dissy shaft was spinning when we hit the 'rev limiter'
Eventually it was traced to a combination of two things. The Nissan ECU switched from two shots to one at 5525, so at lower flows the injectors were passing the fuel no problem. But when it went to a single BIG shot, there was cellulose fibers from a collapsed fuel filter which were allowing the lower 'two shot' flow through unimpeded, but when it switched to the 'big shot' the engine was starved for fuel.
I suspect you may have a filter which is partially clogging, and the pressure upstream is getting to bypass point on the fuel pump. When this happens it's the same situation: you have all the flow in the world right up to the point of the valve lifting, then the engine falls flat on it's face. We went through plug gap and took it down to 0.020", all that stuff. We weren't shooting flames though...
Biggest caveat: We NEVER heard a SINGLE detonation. Nonetheless 5 of 6 JE Forged Slugs sunk their rings on that run! This was at 8.39PSI on a calibrated, precision MAP Gauge set up on the manifold to independently register boost pressure.
I'd do some testing, as well as check your compression and do a leakdown test. If you have done this several times and it IS fuel going lean....chances are high something is on the way out. We did it THREE times. We made THREE passes till the engine slipped 180. We re-timed it, and made a 'soft' pass where it 'hit the limiter' and the timing slipped 7 degrees---so that was it for the day.
You may have a combination of both a misfire, AND insufficient fuel flow. I'd verify that upstream pressure on the fuel filter and see what you have, as well as possibly dropping the gap 0.005" at a time until it gets better or your noticing idle quality degradation.
Good Luck, be careful...you're treading on "BOOM Ground"
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Stone age man, like wicked tech daddy-o! Yo Cats, I'm heading to my beat poetry recital now...
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Then I guess you're screwed, and are in for a teardown. Personally I'd run the hell out of it anyway and see what happens. You can get out of town to do this, you know. I've seen the same thing JM comments upon, as well as engines that have laid up in storage that got the rings stuck. Nothing wrong with them, just stuck from sitting.
BTW, it's eTc, and pCv...
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At idle on a cold day in SoCal I can not get the engine to 160F when idling. It will sit between 140-152^F measured at the CHT at the back of the head, and about 10^F lower at the thermostat.
I have to drive it to get enough load on the engine to satisfy the 160F - 170F lower thermostatic control range.
All stock cooling system, with clutch fan, and shroud in a 260Z.
On a hot day, this is not an issue.
If you are running appreciably hotter than 185, the chances for boiling in the back of the engine (head) are greater. Run a 16# radiator cap at least, and don't loop the heater hose if you're bypassing the core! If you're 220^F out the thermostat housing, you're over 230^F at the back of the head---way too hot.
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Yerp...
For those who have access to such devices.
In the USA crack pipes are more common than handgun reloaders these days it seems...
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If you aren't running a spare tire and put in a flat deck like the factory 432's with the 100 liter tank. I have one of those tanks and I can't believe some local sheetmetal duct shop couldn't knock one up relatively reasonably. It's got a couple stiffener ribs in the sides, but the rest of the tank is a simple flat piece of sheetmetal rolled over it. The difference is it takes a special sender and gauge (for the 100l capacity) but given it's a relatively consistent taper any standard GM sensor could fit, which would make those using Autometer Gauges in the dash very nice. Maybe sacrifice an old rusty tank as a donor for pickups and sending unit compatibility.
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Yes, as long as the copper washers are not scarred or cut annealing the way Noddle mentions should actually be done each time the washer is removed. It will work harden and split if you re-use too many times without annealing.
You can do it with a propane or butate crack pipe torch....
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I can't see the photos...
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What I have seen in most of the Greddy stuff is that the Diaphragms are the parts they 'cheap out' on---replace them with a REAL part and they seem to function just fine.
I'm personally not a big 'knock off' buyer. Well, I admit I'm looking at dual-SIM iPhone 4's here in China simply because they are terribly overpriced and these run on Android 3... But that is beside the point. Pirated MS Software... don't get me started!
Most of the cheap stuff I'll sell off to kids who don't have money IF I know it works. I'll support the real deal as they do all the work developing it. For the most part. But there is a limit of goodwill, and when people start getting ridiculously prideful in their pricing (yen exchange rate compensated) then I might consider alternates.
It it works, run it. Check the diaphragm, that will tell you if it's real or not. Generally replicas will not have a trademarked logo on them. Make sure it's not a "Britz", "Blits", or "Bliitz" on the body. Like "Autokraft" filters for Ford--where the damn DEALER parts counter man selling it to me told me it was a "Ford of Europe" part, "from Germany". That filter I paid for, and went DIRECTLY to the regional Ford CS Rep for a talk... He was MORE than interested in my story, and then had an urgent Dealer Service Call to make... something involving an "Anal Audit of the Goddamned Parts Operation There" whatever that means
Copies sold AS copies I'm good with... Copies sold as the REAL THING piss me the hell off!
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Son, there's knockoffs and copies of everything just a matter of how hard you look.
I've seen iPhone 5's in and around Shenzen already. We don't even have them yet...just 4S! But they go 5's out there already!
For mechanical parts...it's child's play to knock it off. Looks the part. Does it work? Who knows?
For a long time the pneumatic stuff from HF was knockoff I-R and Blue-Point. Didn't have the logo.
I wouldn't categorically say they aren't out there, just that you may not have seen them as yet.
But my money says "yes, they are out there"---the real question is why do you think yours is a fake?
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I've always wondered where the 'locked distributor' comes from... That's straight out of the 1950's Turbo Manual. I ran vacuum advance/retard on mine. The Euro Spec Turbos used an E12-80 distributor with Vacuum Advance/Retard from the factory.
Modifying the distributor to allow retard under boost is easy enough, and covered at some of the 510 sites. You just allow the points plate to rotate in the other direction through slotting of the plate appropriately. Cutting down of the total vacuum advance is possible though simple epoxy in the slots as well.
The way the car runs with functioning distributor vacuum / centrifugal advance versus locked is quite a bit different. And the ability to have all of that at partial throttle helps in spool as well!
Retard is retard, and easily enough done with a BTM.
I'd not lock it, there really is no need to with a low-boost engine. A BTM at 2/psi will drop 16 degrees of advance by 8psi. Do the math on mechanical advance (as vacuum will not be in play) and you will see numbers that coincide with most MS Maps of timing for the same level of boost!)
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There is no difference, one runner, three runners, or six runners the pressure achieved will be the same. What will change is the volume available to do work. Like to run vacuum operated wipers, etc...
Like Leon says, it all depends on what you want to do with it. If all else fails, put a small reservoir in. If there is not sufficient vacuum, install a Bullfrog Vacuum Pump from an 83 Turbo to MAKE more vacuum in your reservoir!
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Valve float is not an issue unless you got some serious valve spring issues. SERIOUS valve spring issues, like forgetting to assemble it with inners or something like that...
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Also, most people agree the old 'engine braking to save the brakes' is outmoded as a driving technique even in Endurance Racing. Using the brakes to slow the car has become the accepted method. Improvements in brake compounds and most importantly brake fluid have rendered the old concerns almost irrelevant. It can be used as a method for 'conservation' in some cases...but as a general rule it's not neccessary any longer.
Drive a stock EFI car through an Auto X and you find there's plenty of engine braking if everything is properly maintained. Even if haphazardly maintained...
In other words, if you think 'sporty driving' involves any of the areas where the Emissions Devices affect engine operation (below 3500 rpms)---you need to relearn the driving you are doing. You are loosing ALL the sporting characteristics of the car driving in that range. Emissions affects daily driving, not enthusiastic driving.
I have often said chances are for most people driving these cars, you could substitute a VW Jetta TDI engine and they would think it was the greatest thing since sliced bread! They always shift before 3500, and when they DO run the tach to 5000 ever so rarely the engine does seem to pull all the way there. Just like a Jetta TDI. Plenty of torque down low, and the ability to rev to 5400. "Performance Personified" for many of today's drivers.
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Agreed, engine braking is done above 3K rpm, if you are holding braking below 3K rpms, that's pretty extreme. For Emissions devices to affect the sporting driving characteristics of the car, you must drive it grossly incorrectly.
Powerglide hits it spot-on with the operational range.
" I refer to the engine's rev up as well as rev-down characteristics." Rev-Up is also dictated by the camshaft, rev down is not an issue the BCCD is driven by engine vaccum, if you are truly WOT there isn't any driving force for the hold-open function at 4000 rpms. The only thing that operates is the dashpot and that is as much a 'keep the throttle from sticking' function as anything else.
If you were old-school, you would realize it has to be driven as Powerglide suggests. If you learned on an Air Cooled VW you would realize this. Cut your teeth on American Iron and you find yourself upshifting at 3000rpms and complaining of the lack of 'low end' torque at 1700 rpms.
Engine braking exists on the early EFI systems. If you're driving it. It's not there on todays' CVT's unless you select a lower ratio...it's a complaint overblown IMO.
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"Alot of the engine response strangness comes from emission control devices like the BCDD valve in the older EFI cars."
INcorrect!
The sluggishness of the OEM system is DIRECTLY linked to it using a flapper-style AFM. There is an inherent delay of response due to simple inertia.
Almost EVERY SINGLE ONE of the emissions control devices comes into play when you CLOSE the throttle, not when you open it! As a matter of fact, during WOT NONE of them are functioning! Matter of fact, over 3500 not much is going on with them either!
The sluggishness goes away with aftermarket systems because they measure MAT, as well as having accel-shot functions. They all drive similarly to early GM TBI systems, which were MAP based as well, and didn't have response issues inherent in the Bosch system.
The key to responsiveness is to keep the flap close to open. It's why the cars are geared to run on the freeway around 3K rpms. This REALLY helps throttle response. And in fact, the response above 3000 for an aftermarket and stock system is hard to differentiate.
Most people drive their cars so poorly that they attribute ills to the system that are really inherent in their misoperation of the vehicle.
And of course the Emissions Bogeyman comes up and is blamed for it as well. I don't know where that comes from, they all go inop at WOT, and most function to decrease emissions on overrun (drop-throttle)!
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Generally the KA Tranny is acknowledged to survive to 400HP, while the original L-Series won't last long if you are constantly using 300+.
For over 400, the Z32 Tranny seems to be the adapted choice.
You have to be careful with 'exploded gears' as a diagnosis. Is this due to countershaft flexing, bearing failure, or shock-loading. You can break ANYTHING with shock-loading. I've broken low-mileage L-Series Trannies with a stock L26 because the bearing retainer let fly and the gears moved allowing high loads on the face to shatter them. Many times gears are broken because bearings allow improper alignment and the face contact of the gears change---add to that a shock load and it APPEARS the gears are at issue, but in reality it's bearing failure or other flexing of the case/components.
I don't know what happened with your fifth gear, but the round nut backs off on those allowing failure.
I spend a lot of time at work analyzing broken gears, twisted shafts, broken stuff of all types. To a casual observer, one cause may make sense, while in reality the failure is something completely and seemingly unrelated. When you see a broken component ask yourself "WHY" Five times on each answer you give yourself. If you can't answer it all five times...you're likely overlooking something!
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" Although I would have to ask why did the engineers enlarge the shaft to begin with, I would assume is they have had a number of them bend during hard shifting?"
I missed that, but deflection may be a reason to upsize the rod. Turning down the ends of an immovable pilot point will not have any effect on this function. I would not say 'bend' as that implied they took a set. I would probably say the more correct word would be 'deflect' which made shifting harder. And with the IMPROVED shift linkage in the tailshaft, more force can be applied.
Again, turning down the pilot end really isn't a factor. Look at the Clutch Input end of the tranny to see the exact same turning-down of a critical input device. And everybody does it!
This all involves the front case, I don't know where you get the idea you cut the whole thing down, just where it pilots into the end. Then you don't have to drill anything and the factory alignment of the rods is preserved...
Remember, I'm not the guy talking about prospectively using a hand-drill on the operation. You want to bind the shift rod, misalign those holes a mm or two when the drill skips around a bit. See how nicely they shift then. By turning down the shaft, that potential fail in aftermarket machining is eliminated. And it IS a REAL concern. Any monkey can run a lathe. Center-Finding the hole and then competently redrilling it or machining it oversize DOES take SOME skill in machine work.
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Are you serious? Are you seriously saying the shift rod in these transmissions is a point of failure. Well, I've been into and out of them since about 1984 and I have YET to see a rod cause a failure. The roll pins through the rod yeah. And with a machined case, there is logic (as I stated) about leaving as much meat in that area as possible. I just mentioned it as 'that is what I saw them doing in Japan' and they've been doing this swap for quite few more years than we have on this side of the pond. I don't see why they would machine the case and NOT bore up the shift rod. It does seem easier to me to do it that way. But 'serviceability'---that's a moot point in this discussion. If you are seriously considering failure points, the CASING and BEARING come FAR before 'sliding back and forth shifting rod'!
Casings I've seen split, gears break, but MOST OFTEN: BEARINGS FAIL.
The largest reason these transmissions STOP you on the roadside is a BEARING. A synchro that goes bad will not make a bit of difference on the road. Bungee the thing in gear and drive on (been there, done that, TWICE.)
But the bearing comes apart, and that shaft deflects? You start rapidly grinding gears to nothing.
If you are saying you do this swap at the roadside, I call bullshite. Unless you got the premachined casing sitting in the back of the car when it happens, this is NOT a 'roadside swap.' Seriously, roadside maintenance? When was the last time you rebuilt a Datsun Transmission on the roadside?
That's way out there as far as I'm concerned. Not a factor.
EITHER modification path is a ONE SHOT deal. Once the machine work is done, you're finished forever.
If you don't change the bearing, you have a failure prone part left inside. A part which you already have to swap from one tranny to another (or buy new.)
For me there is no big difference in the shift rods. If you are rebuilding the thing, it's up to the person doing it. I guess there is an argument to be made that cutting down the rods makes for a stronger front casing.
But if you are going through the trouble to do the swap, the larger bearing is compatible and designed for the torque handling capability of the transmission. I'm all for quick and dirty swaps...but there is a point where it doesn't have a payback.
I feel this is one of those instances. I have half a dozen of those five speeds with THAT bearing failed sitting in my container. It's the prime motivation to have gotten a couple of the later trannies in the first place. Stronger. Less apt to fail. Same serviceability, but with a better shifter.
I just never thought someone would claim the reason not to use the bearing was because they might have to do this on the roadside one day. I got news, THAT ain't gonna happen!
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Yeah, that's where that bunker style house I've been obsessed with since High School comes into play, along with my dedicated cadre of local mercs who depend on my benevolence for the village's livelyhood.
It's rumored "Apocalypse Now" as opposed to being a historical drama, was actually a prophecy on my final demise...
I mean, I'm just sayin'... No resemblance whatsoever right?
I'm safe, I'm not going Insane.
Really!
LS1 pump with carburetor
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
You should be able to do it. Many times in Japan they run a carb inlet like that with an EFI pump and FPR downstream of a 'fuel log' (think double-pumper with two lines from the log)...
This way full pump pressure and flow is available to the carburettor at all times, and you regulate backpressure to hold what you need at the float seat.
Your fuel filter is upstream of the log, so if it's plugging the FPR compensates (to the point when it either collapses or blows out!) The EFI pump will push a LOT of fuel at the lower pressures of a carbbed requirement. It makes it much more 'dirty fuel' tolerant in terms of full-load fuel filter plugging.
The feed side can be compensated flow-wise by increased pressure provided by the EFI pump... As long as you can maintain your recommended fuel pressure at Peak Torque/Peak Load on the dyno you don't need a larger line.
What usually is more critical is the RETURN side at idle! There is the REAL challenge. That's when it's handling the MOST flow it will see. If you are undersized there, you will run into high fuel pressures, sinking the carb floats, running rich or even possibly pumping the float bowls completely full of fuel and spouting out the balance tubes!