Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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50#/Hr is about 100 HP each injector. Ford HO TBI used twin 550cc injectors to support V8's with 215HP ratings, so in the 200HP range twin injectors would be in a manageable size.
GM Style injectors are larger flow and work in the TBI application as well. Port injection on the SU manifold has also been done using conventional small capacity injectors.
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Borescope with illumination and a right angle attachment through the spark plug hole. Look for the ridge of the quench pad just next to the valves...
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Check the 200HP N/A thread for examples of what you want. A properly matched cam to a gas-flowed head should easily meet your goals. Scott B. in our car club had 182HP to the rear wheels on a 1mm over L28 at below 6500 rpms with STRONG bottom end using the original SU's from his 240. Originally he thought Triples would be needed...he was really happy with the SU's ease of maintenance since he maintained them for years before making the jump to a performance engine. And those were not 2", they were the original 45mm SU's from the L24.
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"Again, as I said before I could care less about nomenclature."
Then bow out when nomenclature is discussed. Not to be pedantic, but application does dictate the terminology. As I mentioned above, long ago I got the talk "Cars aren't Aircraft".
"Definition of Terms" is the first section of any paper. If you don't care what you call it, then anybody reading what you write won't have any applicable basis from which to judge or draw conclusions, and the effort is wasted through the confusion in terminology.
Words mean things, if you don't care what term is used, then let's call them radiators. Radiators dissipate heat. The terminology is correct from your reasoning.
We came to this point the last time this 'fact' was pointed out---to the end it came that in the field the mechanics and what they call them may not have a clue the engineering terminology used or why they are referred to in the particular way they are. An axial flow turbine providing air for subsequent mechanical compression would have an intercooler for that next stage of compression, but the air supplied off that discharge (bleed air) would have an aftercooler before going into cabin air management system. One is subsequent compression, one is point of final use...
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Welcome to the world I came to Datsuns from...
Be careful with the VW Stuff, the DHLA and DRLA may or may not have the same bolt pattern. And when they talk 48mm, they are usually talking about Weber IDA Base Template---and that's WAY different than DCOE/DHLA/PHH/etc...
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There was a time that 45,000 yen was only $167.91
I'm serious, that's what it was when I got to Japan. Within five years that same 45,000 yen was inflated to $398.23, and with the exchange rate I got last month while there, it's now right around $600 even.
I want my time machine, and a wheelbarrow of money...
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Fender Mirrors do not a Fairlady make...
Nice 240 though! And the late-model.
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Mikuni Manifolds have ports for Mercury or Oil Synching of the airflow.
Otherwise, it's as stated above: Flowmeter is the only option out of the box if you don't have the Mikuni Manifold.
Can't use carb vacuum port for distributor advance for synch anyway!
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"I would so like to see a float bowl made of Pyrex glass."
See that hex headed plug on the bottom of your float bowl?
Know what goes in there?
A proper banjo bolted fitting with a clear plastic tube that gets connected to the vent port on the top of your carb, and is "T'd" to the air cleaner so you have the same relative pressure in the float bowl as you do when running normally.
Lets you see the float level on a dyno under power without much ado. Very revealing about pump volume and what pressure you 'need' to run at what load...
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The guy isn't interested in learning, he's here to argue. That is sad. He's taking my words/examples, and putting a spin on them saying nothing of the sort what I said.
When I say 182RWHP, lets NOT call it ANYTHING other than 182 RWHP. Unless you stick the engine on an engine dyno with tracebility you DON'T know what the Crank HP is going to be...PERIOD. The problem with ESTIMATES is they can conform to any model you so choose to make your point---whether it's a valid engineering based rational deduction or USWAG. Usually the latter.
You don't get it. I'm not wasting my time trying any more. I'd suggest nobody else does either. Do what you want on your car. It's yours.
Next time, don't ask for advice if you aren't willing to listen.
I would have inflected Bob H's sentence a little differently:
"You have done a fantastic job of staying on the defensive and telling us your ESTIMATES don't explain our RESULTS"
The guys that taught me would usually throw a bolt, wrench, or give someone a swift kick in the arse out of the shop at this point.
<INTERNET EQUIVALENT>
Now, I go back to MY work and cease wasting time on this lost cause. "The Forest can not be seen. All the trees are in the way. I cut them all down and I STILL can't see this Forest, even from the highest stack of cordwood from my clearcutting of these trees. Someone LIED to me! There is no Forest here, I don't think there ever was!"
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I stumbled across this post from search results.
Use a dremel and sandpaper to fix the center cap not fitting
What a classic response from somebody who clearly doesnt have first hand experience at what the issue is. A classic post.
It's an M.O.
The answer is the XXR's have a 'flush fit' style cap, and this gentleman from Kuwait is having a problem with the center bearing carrier of the hub protruding too far so the 'cap won't fit'...
This is why most people don't run the front caps.
Your answer is to either find a cap with sufficient depth to accommodate the Z's protruding outer bearing race holding section of the hub, have one made, or run without them.
The 'flat cap' that comes with the XXR's won't fit. You could space them to get more depth, but unless you remove the hub and install some longer wheel studs thread engagement with even a 5mm spacer will start getting tenuous.
I wish I could give you an answer for 'what cap fits' but I've not measured the XXR's center hole, nor it's relative position to the hub's dust cap (what you need to clear.)
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If you've ever read my rants on 'oil consumption' you will see we both have a similar outlook on expenditures regarding consumable items like gas and oil. You can buy a LOT of oil for $3500---and chances are it will take you 10+ years to spend it, even at a quart every 500 miles!
I like to say 'great minds think alike'---I just never thought of the Premium Fuel in that manner. I think Consumer's Union is fluoridating my water and contaminating my precious bodily fluids...
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"if we're able to swallow our pride and hear it."
I've mentioned this to people for quite a while. Usually they think people telling them what they don't want to hear are some sort of arrogant pricks pontificating to hear themselves speak and make themselves feel superior (at least in my case that's what they think...)
But really, many people don't have a clue that many of these guys who are talking knew when to shut up, sit down, and LISTEN to fat old white guys tell it the way it is...
I can't count the guys who answered my questions in what now would be considered 'abusive' or 'condescending' manners, when in fact this was just the way the guys had it handed to them.
You can lead a horse to water, you can't make him drink. The only thing you can hope is once they have gone and sampled all to wells with dead goats in them, they finally are rewarded with the sweet sweet clear cool water of a great engine build and will share with others their pains from along the way.
MANY DON'T!
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"Think about your comment that you are on a budget, and premium fuel is out of your price range. 10,000 miles a year is LOT of driving in one of our cars. At 20 mpg, you would burn 500 gallons a year. Premium is, what, $.50 more per gallon? That is $250/YEAR. That is $5/WEEK. Just sayin', don't short yourself from running optimal ignition timing with the false economy of running rot-gut fuel."
OOOOH! I'm going to add that one to my Oil Consumption Rant, I'd never thought through the math on the Premium Fuel!
Then again, I wouldn't say 10K miles a year is a 'lot' on these cars---I'm gone 233 days a year past three years now (180 days 'out' comes Sept 24th this year...) and managed to put 7000 miles on my DUALLY (which I'd expected to put MAYBE 3000 on in a year) and the Z? Last year the insurance audit showed around 14K for the 18 weeks I was in town...Driving it 100 miles daily to work and back for the days I'm in the office (396-500 miles a week), and usually 400+ on a weekend...
Lets just say 'for me' if I was in town more, my mileage would be considerably more than 10K miles a year. When I worked a local job and didn't have a company vehicle I was putting 26K a year on my Turbo 240 and that was only driving 22 miles each way, or 44% of the mileage I drive daily now!!! That was 'only' 500 miles a week total. But then again there was a time when gas was .89 cents a gallon, so 17mpg from the 140 wasn't that objectionable considering the performance.
BTW, this is a 'necropost'...look at the original post date. That is why I said we should combine it with the 200HP N/A post!
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Time for 'air compressor and nozzle' was BEFORE he pulled the plug out!
There's grit in the cylinder, blow out what you can, start the bike on the back cylinder and see what it blows out the hole in a couple of seconds and call it all you can do.
I would not pull a head to chase light grit which should blow out on first combustion event.
If it really bothers you, drain the fluids, invert the bike, then do the compressed air thing.
Your fluids needed changing anyway.
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Polycarbonate is used on Aircraft Canopies, and there are a plethora of care items to keep it 'optically perfect'---the last thing you want as a pilot is to look through the canopy and have hazed and distorted views of Bogeys at 4G's in a Split-S
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Spal? That's a funny way to spell "Nissan Motor Corporation"!
Not even a model given...so my comment is appropriate. I was just going to say 'yes' but someone beat me to it!
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Can we combine this with the 200HP thread now, just to save space?
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" and you can even leave a stock longblock unmodified and even leave it in your engine bay while you do what's needed to make well over 200hp. "
I think someone else said that already...several times.
The trees are in the way...
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"Forgive me for being blunt - ok, don't forgive me. Your being obtuse and missing the point here. You aren't an engine builder, you haven't built one of these before, and you don't do this for a living. Your an armchair engineer on this issue. You have many of us who HAVE built these motors well in excess of your modeling. Many of us are engineers as well - some for their full time job. Many of us can also tune the EFI motors. We aren't speaking out of theory and conjecture - but actual experience."
Usually I'm the guy that reaches this point first...
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I agree with John C on placement of the cuts, and logic behind it. I've done a few of these as 'wrinkles' from shunts usually are confined to the area in front of the strut towers and crossmember. It's fairly straightforward to lop off the piece and weld it back on...the strut tower flange makes a very handy reference point for measurement.
Make sure your donor is 'straight' and make a lot of measurements before cutting it so you know what your wreck is supposed to measure out to be once in place.
Measure 8 times, cut once.
Measure 15 times spotweld twice and then measure again before stitching it all together.
Nothing worse than headlight(s) that permanently look to one side of the road because you are a bit shorter on that side of the car...
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"Tony - 205 (crank HP) and 9:1 compression (I'll guess 57 ft-lb/l) works out to 9450 RPM - bet it sounded pretty!"
Mustive been slightly higher than 9:1 then... As a world record holder you would think it was a 'race' engine, huh?
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there is a link?
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Turbo stroker and emissions
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
"I know a stroker with any type of cam will fail emissions, but what if I put a turbocharger on my stroker with a stock cam?"