Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I feel the safest when I can sling arms and return fire with anything I can pick up on my own, without restriction.
That kind of rules out USA---where should I go?
Texas?
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"The more formal education you have, the more difficult it would be in this economy to find employment matching your qualifications."
I think that is part of the problem, because people bought into the lie that education automatically entitles them to some set salary, they actually BELIEVE they will get it!
I got news, education is great, but it doesn't entitle you to anything other than the consideration that you have the education. Having the education doesn't necessarily mean you can do anything useful for a prospective employer.
Skillsets, demonstrated and proven do that. In many cases, regardless of advanced degrees.
If you get hung up on what you are 'entitled' or 'should' make because you have a Masters Degree (or whatever) it can be a bumpy road.
Ask all those unemployed UAW workers who had high school diplomas (!) and now can't find a job that pays them $120K+ per year. They'd been taken in by the same sort of lie.
Beware! (Again, speaking of the third world: there are plenty of software companies in India where Masters and Doctorate degree holders make 45 and 60K a year. It sounds 'well below market rate' until you realize on that salary, in that country, you have servants, drivers, basically living like very high income people. But because of the salary many people did not choose to relocate when the jobs moved there.)
Salaries are regional, and many times skills based more so than entry-level positions where they only have a diploma to look into... Once your CV starts getting filled with competencies and proven abilities, the money takes care of itself. It's important to let employers know what your salary range is---many times prospective employees are not considered based on the assumption that with X Degree they will want $X... If it's not the case, if you REALLY want a particular location or job and money is not a factor, you need to let them know that.
It happened to my father, who was semi-retired and found they had hired another person for a job opening without even calling him. The reason they didn't was 'we couldn't pay you what you're worth'.... My dad told them "let me be the judge of that"---at that point he was willing to work for MUCH less than 'the going rate for his qualifications' simply to keep busy at a job and add to his pension a little bit. The job was short term anyway, it would have been a perfect match. As it was the guy they hired didn't work out, and he ended up there for the last five years before retiring, and then did consulting work for almost another five years!
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The head gasket I listed was a late-model L20ET unit. The bores are oval. If you have the stock L24 bores, the fire ring will be cutting across the edges of the cylinders and hanging in the combustion chamber.
It is only for the L20A bore, with the larger diameter of the 'oval' apparently for people who want to install L28 Valves into the small bore L20A...and then consequently relieve the hell out of the block for clearance!
It's an L20A - only part. Sorry!
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Uh... think about it for a second more 72 SBC 240Z.... think about it...
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John C's comment bears an additional comment. Those are what is called in the compressed air and gas industry 'volume increasers' you see them used in safety blowguns, and that is what function it is performing on that diesel truck exhaust---that little funky divot in the tailpipe extension brought out simply draws in ambient air through the functionality explained earlier, and drastically dilutes the exhaust stream.
One thing to think about is that in CAGI (compressed air and gas industry) these are generally classified by ratios, i.e. 7:1 meaning for every one CFM you put in at X psi, you will get 7 CFM out, at a reduced pressure. The nozzle ratios may even be in the CAGI Handbook.
Anyway, something that bears investigation is the issue of 'fumes in the interior'---with a proper NOZZLE TAILPIPE on an early S30, you could DRASTICALLY dilute that toxic mess coming out your tailpipe, making your leaking rear deck area less able to suck in noticeable concentrations of malodorous gasses. I think this is something overlooked TOTALLY in the discussion of solutions to the problem. Of course proper sealing is paramount. But since almost EVERY solution involves using a tip extension, why not use a FUNCTIONAL DESIGN to extend the tip, and at the same time dilute that exhaust flow to make any leaks less noxious?
Well, off to Funan Digital Mall to go buy my Tom Tom S.E. Asia. Yeah, I'm actually going to buy a GPS...mostly because I'm sick of being tied to taxis and other people driving me around. I want to go out and explore on my own.
I digress...
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Did you do the wiring before or after the body was put back on the frame? I've seen it where wiring was inadvertently pinched or cut in the process of putting the body-on-frame and that can cause all sorts of weird ghosts. (Usually in a place where you can't see it!!!)
Never seen it on a 240Z though.
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I got the same daily driven mileage with the Shark car (17mpg) whether it had SU's on it, or Triple Mikuini Blow Through Carbs huffed into for 350RWHP.
Same route daily, 26K miles a year for several years from Corona to Brea through Carbon Canyon.
It amazed me that the horsepower increase was achieved at anywhere near comparable fuel economy. You had to work the engine pretty hard with the SU's to get decent performance, but with the turbo...I rarely found myself WOT all that often given the speeds reached!
Yeah, I could get 5MPG on the track with the Turbo. But that also isn't much worse than SU's run at the track, either!
If you use horsepower, you're going to pay a penalty.
Frankly, the car was a misery to drive with the puny N/A output. It just didn't have (comparatively) enough power to get out of it's own way on the freeway. And that's coming from the owner of a 1200CC VW Bus!
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Thanks for the information MADKAW.
That will make Andy very happy as well! I'm laying in a big order when I get back to the states!!!
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I would agree, one of the primary reasons to swap to the later transmission is strength--the gears are wider.
To leave the early bearing in there defeats the purpose of the swap. You put in stronger gears to handle more torque, then overload a 'weak point bearing' from a transmission which is rated for much lower torque/horsepower.
Short term, it works...but long term?
FYI in Japan they cut down the shift fork to fit the earlier tranny, rather than bore-up the casing. I guess they want as much aluminum die-cast supporting the rods as possible. And THAT takes some doing as you have to disassemble the clusters to some extent to remove the rod, chuck it in a lathe, cut the end down, and then reinstall it!
Then again, I suppose their logic is 'while it's apart, overhaul it' and therefore turning down the rod is simply another step while the thing is all the way down.
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Should be of no surprise, the RB20 was the generational replacement for the L-Series in the model lineup in 1983/84. Same cars, just different engine/tranny.
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Looks like Frank driving through the countryside in the Kermit-Green Highroof...
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And I have tested running both hollow camAND spray bar and it didn't work as well as you think. The hollow bar takes to much pressure or volume away from the spray bar and the oil never sprays far enough to do any good.
That should not be the case, you have either not enlarged the delivery passage in the block as required, have excessive bearing wear on the bottom end resulting in excessive demand there, or run a pump of insufficient size/spring relief pressure to do it.
An Auto-Turbo oil pump will have MORE than enough flow to absolutely FLOOD the top end with a dual lubrication system.So will the stock pump if the bottom end bearings are in decent shape and not throwing off a lot of oil from excessive clearances.
I have left off the obvious "the plug is in the back of the cam" as a reason for what should be clear reasoning to everyone.
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Yeah, tell me now after I buy something else in China for $10...
I guess when this one craps out, I get that one!
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Proper Dampers are required on the snout, and that works in conjunction with flywheel/package weight as well.
But like John C says: stock engines insomuch as cast pistons and stock (crappy) dampner!
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One of those is not what is being discussed, what you describe with clutch disengagement is SEQUENTIAL Supercharging, where one goes into bypass at a point where the other takes over. This discussion is about putting the discharge of one sueprcharger into the other for COMPOUND Supercharging, meaning Turbo 1 produces 5psi which goes into Turbo 2 which boosts it from 5 to 15psi. That would be your first example, but generally it's not a 'stalled' turbo it's drawing air through, it's merely one that is not at boost threshold.
In the that scenario the Supercharger is blowing into engine being fed by turbocharger (the most common compound action in this scenario) as this allows HUMONGOUS compressor wheels to be used with realitively high slip from the turbine to compressor meaning the supercharger is geared to give X psi at just off-idle, and progressively goes upwards, but as it's efficiency drops off as the CR on the mechanical devices raises (meaning excessive heat generation) the turbo is starting to 'overfeed' the mechanical supercharger meaning the CR on the second stage drops, as does its' temperature and a compounding effect is noted where a mechanical supercharger giving 5psi (@ 100C IAT) at top rpm now is giving you 45psi at the SAME IAT because the turbo is pumping in 15psi above X000rpms keeping the CR constant and preventing the temp from rising uncontrollably (thanks to that 1st Stage INTERcooler...
)(In this application only a first stage intercooler may be neccary to run because the effect of the turbo into the mechanical supercharger is such that the CR being generated by the mechanical unit is not sufficient to require it. If it was employed, that second intercooler under the mechanical Supercharger can be sized for a lower heat rejection as CR remains relatively constant.)This is particularly noticeable in industrial compressors where 1st and 2nd Stage discharge temperatures are in the mid-high 200 F range, while the last stage of compression is discharging air in the high 100's. It means you use larger intercoolers on the 1st and 2nd Stages, and the last stage can be pumped directly into the engine (as is the case with many commercial diesel applications now) the density loss at that temperature many times is not worth the weight or complexity/cost penalty of adding a third intercooler to the stack.
Another way to do it is to pump the first turbo uncooled into the second and then cool it, using the mass calculations from the hotter air to size the turbo appropriately to feed it and then just cool it all down afterwards. Knowing 4:1 CR will net you something in the region of 455F you really want to shy away from that kind of approach as it's the kindling point of paper...and when you pump 455F into an aluminum cooler they tend to crack in short order from the extreme thermal cycling.(experience talking here...) I'd shy from that setup.
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Looks like that guy treaded the same water as I did with the Turbo Vair, it's got all the high tech goodies from the era on it. But I bought mine from Spearco!
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When you torque the head bolts, you clamp them to 60/80 lbs.ft depending on bolt type/lube, etc. if you'd check the load created with such torque, you would see that load for each bolt is around 50,000N. That's 5 tons per bolt
Does it answer your question? That Eyebolt screwed into the rear bumper hole will lift the whole car off the ground with a strap on it!
Similarly, the eyebolt screwed into the top right-hand tranny bolt hole on the back of the block will do similar things to the engine...
Security is important, you get that with pad-eyes and proper angles on the chains/straps/ropes you use when lifting.
I guess using three guys to lift a block out is now considered 'Beasting' something out... What is it when you don't have any friends and you do it on your own? No head, no intake, no exhaust... That block is a one-man lifting chore then! I guess you must have REALLY been drinking to need three of you to do it!
Truthfully, I've wondered with the head off, if you couldn't use a SINGLE pad-eye to lift the block, or block and tranny out. I've never tried a balancing point test on that assembly, and judging from your photo, that front bolt is kinda superfluous. I know my engine lifter does change angles nicely...but a single bolt lifting point...you got to wonder, don't you?
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Damn you Pete, more Obsolete Parts I now must possess!
I do have a nice SK Turbo Conversion for the L20E though...it has a BOV on it...where's Crowns?
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"but some people like the stock nissan EFI systems"
/whispering from the shrubbery:/ Some people like having sex with their relatives as well, it gets the job done, but it's never quite right, you know? /sneaks down to the river for his escape.../
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The face is blue, which indicated overheating, likely due to either lubrication breakdown, or lack of oil.
This would have me looking closely at the lubrication at that lobe before jumping to Schneider.
It is also possible that ZDDP not being added to the oil is a culprit as well. Is this a "CWC" or "JAPAN" blank?
Talking with some cam people, they tell me that the CWC actually is metallurgically a 'better' cam stock, than the Nissan blanks but for some reason the CWC's seem prone to failure with todays oils lacking the high Zinc content.
For the record, I've seen multiple cam lobe failures on Nissan Cams (stock) as well, almost always due to plugged lube spray holes.
Bummer, good luck on the re-cam.
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Oh, and a comment on the venturi sizing stated in the Weber Example above for an L28...
It's stated 'bigger carbs' may make more power. Change your venturi from a 34 to a 36. A 34 is NOT a 'top end' venturi...this goes to the other comment about poor tuning I suppose. A 34 venturi in a 45 DCOE is a mild street setup, and not for max power. Then again, running a 12.4 AFR everywhere isn't exactly how you get maximum power either. But it will give you pops, growls, and snarls if that's your thing! (Hint: Try pulling fuel after peak torque to around 13.8 AFR instead...you're WAY richer than you need to be on the top if you are serious about getting power at higher RPMS...maybe that's why it's feels all-in so early!)
If you are talking about bigger carbs being 50's...you need to maximize airflow through what you got first.
If you are talking about bigger carbs being 45's...you aren't set up for power, period. The carbs are the limiting factor, not your cam! AIRFLOW makes power, and small venturis and small throttle plates just won't cut it. I ran 44PHH Mikunis with 32mm Chokes on my L20A in Japan, and the power would come up high and pull like crazy with a surprisingly small camshaft profile.
Many people would be shocked to see how 'small' our cam profiles are for the above power examples. I've seen people on here with street engines that have cams with more aggressive specifications than what we are running in competition, AND making considerably less horsepower.
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Wow. OK. Good advice (sounds like it). I was imagining we were talking about 8k with an L24, maybe 6800 with an L28, and 6300 with a 3.1-3.3L. Bad assumption? If it's really a few hundred rpm, I totally agree and need to change my searching (and find a block).
Oh Christ!
Try THESE numbers for 'runs and doesn't blow apart guidelines' (and we haven't actually floated a damn valve yet):
12,500 for an L20A
9750 for an L28
8700 for a VO7 Stroked L29
And in EVERY case above, we stopped because either the tachometer didn't log higher or we were plenty past the power peak that we've determined further increase would be pointless other than to know we just need a bigger cam or more boost to make even more power at the higher rpms.
8K with an L24 isn't even getting STARTED as far a 'maximum allowable RPM's'! (Do a little linear interpolation between displacements...) You're selling yourself WAAAAY short with THAT assumption for SURE!
And guess what? An L20A running 9750 rpms IS NOT going to give a comparable proportional HP as the L28 running 9750 (or for that matter the L28 turning 8250...even if you take the L20A to 12,500 trying to make up porportional RPMs through some theoretical increase in RPMS to compensate for displacement....)
If you have forged pistons...you have (from what I've seen) really no practical upper RPM Limit.
If you have cast pistons, your upper limit is around 7000 rpms. Run them at 8K and you are going to get an engine that "Sounds like icecubes in a blender" at idle before not to long--if not worse.
The cam determines how and where you will make the power. The pistons will determine if you can run to that point or not. Arguments for larger cams that provide more 'power under the curve' being used in Cast-Piston engines do have a valid argument for their employment. BUT if the engine revs so willingly with that big cam in there, I've not seen ONE person who doesn't try to see when it stops pulling. And the engine goes 'boom'...either spectacularly, or 'ice cubes in a blender' kind of way.
Almost 100% of the Internet Commentary about 'RPM Limitations of the Datsun L-Series Engine' is pure, unadulterated BULLSHITE! There is no other way to put it. It's bad information. I've personally seen this myself. On the dyno, on the track, on two continents.
You don't need forged pistons OR 7500 to get 200 N/A horsepower out of an L28. Likely not out of an L24. If you need a couple of hundred rpms at a particular track, you gear for it. If you are in serious competition, 7500 IS NOT a limit on a built-up L Series Engine. The much-vaunted Crank Harmonics issue is a holdover from the early L24 noncounterweighted cranks. While a harmonic DOES indeed exist there, it is easily squelched sufficiently with a proper damper, and the knowledge that ANY harmonic is adequately worked THROUGH by not DWELLING on the precise speed where the crank resonates. Pass through it and you're up there quite high before the crank hits a second critical speed. And yes, they can operate there all day long, though parts do take a pounding.
Which brings us full circle that you don't NEED High RPMS to get most horsepower goals. 320 at the rear wheels on a 0.040" overbored L28 is achievable (in our case) at 8250 RPMs in a dedicated race vehicle. Rebello is making far more than that at far lower RPMs with his Stroker 3.0's for similar competition.
Can we kill the maximum RPM myth here and now? PUH-LEEZE?!?!?!?
As for Weber Service---I will agree. At WOT you will see great power from them. In our case, it was simple economics that the cost of 55 DCOE's with their special manifold were cost-comparable with a set of 45mm ITB's. It came down to 'what will be more versatile long-term?' The 45mm ITB's work great on our 2 Liter. They work great on the 2.8. If we had sold our 45's to get the 55's (which was the plan) we would have had to go out and buy another set of DEDICATED carburettors for the small engine. Our power production was smooth and the dyno chart looked like someone drew a fashionable eyebrow with a felt pen when running the Webers. I'm sure with 55's the curve would have been similar in format (nice even curve) rather than the somewhat digital jerky interpolation with the EFI. But comparing 45mm Carbs to 45mm ITB's the EFI gave 17 more HP at the Carbs power peak of 7500, and 40 more HP at an elevated RPM range of 8250. Nothing else changed, direct swap from Weber 45's to ITB's and Electramotive TEC2. No different cam, nothing. It made more power everywhere. Even with the 'strange dip' in the Dyno Curves we are still trying to figure out lo these 6 years later, and present in two different EFI systems...the EFI is still making more than the carbs did at those points...and even more elsewhere. We liked our Webers, it was just too damned expensive for a set of carbs that couldn't be used on ANYTHING else.
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My SOP is to pull out all P.O. wiring. Restore all wiring to it's proper factory location per FSM and Schematic...and know what? It's worked flawlessly EVERY time!
My first step would be to REMOVE ANYTHING NOT STOCK. It can only cause problems. If there isn't an OBVIOUS function to a wire ADDED to a system which worked when new...(like a burned wire that is clipped and lagged) remove it, you don't need it.
As for Hazard Switch---that kills your blinkers for sure (hazard AND turn signals.)
Headlights---for that matter most lights: Common Big Ground Wire under the steering column. Easily disconnected and many seemingly unrelated things won't work unless it's connected.
After that, bulbs, bad local grounds, etc...
But my guess would be the above fixes most all of it.
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The best bet is that someone screwed up the timing chain install and on first crank-over the pistons hit the valves.
It wasn't due to shaving or excessive lift...it was because the timing was off.
That would be my bet.
Thrust augmentor on a automotive exhaust
in Exhaust
Posted
It's 'free' if you are using energy that is usually wasted (heat and velocity) to induce the amplification flow.
An engine's exhaust on the way out the tailpipe is about as far down the 'work' ladder as you can get. Once it's out the pipe, you can never recover ANYTHING from it ever again. Why not use that last bit of heat and velocity energy to scavenge the surrounding airflow into a dilution scheme to mitigate fumes at least???
Caterpillar last year revealed an auxillary turbo-like device that takes a turbine wheel downstream of the turbocharger outlet, which turns through a geared reduction box and fluid coupling (like a torque converter) to impart exhaust gas energy back to the flywheel. It was between a 1 to 3% recovery. Doesn't seem like much, but it was money down the drain as wasted exhaust flow.