Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Look at McMaster for SBR rubber, or other sheeting like conveyor rubber.
Old conveyor belt is tough stuff with reinforcement.
Cutting the rubber, and making round holes in it is not as easy as it sounds.
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"All the money I saved to complete it was sitting around so long that i decided to be a good dad and take my family on a surprise vacation to Hawaii. It was a wise choice, as my daughter is getting older and wont want to spend as much time with me once she is a teen, however the Z will still be there waiting to be finished."
Curiously I made a similar decision some time ago---I can tell you, the Z's will wait. The trip will remain much longer in their minds than you would ever think possible.
Funny thing...I was talking to a Japanese guy about this project while there earlier last month and I discussed where you 'work' and just then we turned the corner and there was a shop in the suburbs of Tokyo with a shingle hung: "Trek & Felt"
It was funny to be discussing it, say something like "Unless you're really into top-end stuff you probably won't recognize it" then literally turn the corner to see a distributor where you least expected to see it!Okamura said "Them?"
Yeah..."Them!"
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One of our club members made a NEAT little rolling dolly out of 2X6's, that fit snugly around the pan. You just notched one corner for the oil pump, and then...yes, screwed up into the 2X6's through the aforementioned HF Furniture Dolly.
I got the last 2 45' High Cubes for $3400 delivered in early 2009. That was less than I'd paid for the 2 40' units in 2004! Jeff paid close to $2800 for his a couple of months ago. The prices swing quite a bit.
The 20' goes for around $1500-1700 each
Hell, if I'm going to spend 1700 for a 20 footer, I may as well spend that much for the larger one (usually within $300 each of a 20')The only advantage to 20 footers is you can get TWO delivered for the same price as a larger container and placing them is more versatile.
I have not bought the ones with the special lock boxes on them to keep locks from getting cut off, I just let the Rottie roam freely in the evenings. There are some containers out now with REALLY NICE captive locking systems and doors that lock like a safe, with a deadbolt that goes into the top and bottom beam at the door end. Those probably won't show up on the used market for another 5 years of so.
And the racking kits are stainless steel like you see in eateries, open wire bails for shelves and little casters at the bottom of posts. The shelves lock in wedge-anchor type holders into grooves on the vertical posts of the apparatus. Not as heavy duty use as Gorilla Racks with pin-locks and 1/2" plywood, but for most of the stuff it works great! Most of the G-Racks I have are underutilized anyway...that's why I bought these for the new containers.
One of the containers is leveled from a high point in my yard, so I can back my dually right up and the tailgate matches EXACTLY with the floor of the container. Basically I lay a piece of old 1/4" aluminum diamond plate across the gap and use it like a loading dock. Once it's in that container, getting it around is easy with a pallet jack. Actually I can run the pallet jack into the back of my truck and take stuff off that way. Once I get a 500# jib crane welded to the doorway, I will be made in the shade.
Look into Unistrut Trolleys as well---you can weld them to the roof, and easily support 600# from them. I use two of them on a cable with old sections of jobsite Unistrut to move the engines now. Took that idea from the contanerized CNG Compressor Skids made by IMW Compressors up in Canada, they use the Unistrut Trolley system in their containers to allow you to disassemble the heavy parts of the compressor with a come-a-long. Very nice! I even screwed a section into the 4X12 beam spanning my carport and use it similarly for light loads in and out of the truck bed.
My house...is...uh... I have my own forklift dude. I think I got hired at one company because of that.
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The title usually has a transfer section for the new owner on the back (my Texas-Sourced 510 did at least...)
That is where your name goes. As long as her signature appears in the box assigning rights to the vehicle anybody presenting the title can claim it's theirs.
I had a guy in Michigan that ALWAYS kept the title in the glove box of his car/truck. What I didn't realize is HE ALWAYS SIGNED THE RELEASE! One day someone walked off with his 78 C20 pickup loaded with tools in the back. When the cops stopped him with a blown-out lock cylinder the thief claimed he'd lost the key and it was a work truck anyway, so WTF. They were going to put him up for stealing the truck, but the guy had found the signed title and filled out his information in the buyer's section!.... I could have imagined that lowlife going 'JACKPOT!' when he saw and realized what he'd found rummaging through the glove box.
Long story short: Guy ended up getting busted for stealing the tools but there was little to do about the truck. I don't know how it all ended up as I moved to Japan and lost contact before final disposition. I don't think he got his truck back, though. NEVER keep the signed title document in the vehicle. Sign it when you SELL it, and not a second before!
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Mc-Master Carr supply company has quart-sized kits of pourable two-part urethane in several durometers.
If you want a block of it to cut and drill, they can probably help you there as well. But if you can make a silicone or cast-plaster mold of what you have, you can pour a replica in equivalent or more durable durometer pretty easily.
They can ship from LA or Chicago to you---probably the same either way.
http://www.precisionurethane.com
They are in Texas, but are more geared toward people buying sheets of stuff for production purposes.
TPC in Rancho Cucamonga does some neat prototype work...again more for production geared stuff, though:
If you are decent with a drill press, and carving wood, I'd get the self-mix kit from McMaster-Carr, and make up a buck out of balsa wood, then take a plaster casting off of it as a mold. You can drill and split it as you choose. Basically make yourself some urethane square bananas that will fit in the stock holders and you will be set. Just remember there is some shrinkage usually, so don't pour a lot till you have the shrinkage compensated for in your mold---with plaster: scrape scrape scrape and then recoat with release compound. Remember they have to compress around the pipes as well---don't leave them rattle around or the harder stuff can literally eat your hard line!
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FYI: From what I've seen on cars in Texas with 'lost titles' it's a big PITA. I would not go that route...
I think the title is signed, you just overlooked it the first time you looked...
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Sign it, date it for yesterday, and take it to the place that handles title transfer and tell them "Hey, she signed it, I bought it, got it running, and now I want plates!"
What happened in between is nobody's business!
EXAMPLE: Idiot moron S.O.B. I knew bought a work truck out by my place for $1000...
Got a PILE of paperwork from dealer transfers inbetween, but all within 90 days of the original SMOG CHECK.
The title was signed as a City of L.A. Vehicle, and the BUYERS LINE WAS BLANK.
I told him, "Take all this shite (handed him a PILE of the three or four intervening transfers), and THROW IT OUT, BURN IT, DO WHATEVER YOU WANT BUT DO NOT SHOW THIS TO THE DMV WHEN YOU REGISTER IT!"
Then I gave him the title, bill of sale from City of L.A. (which was incomplete, it didn't have the buyers information filled out) and told him: "Take THIS, and THIS to the DMV. But your name HERE and HERE. It's already dated, and it's been 2 months, so they will nail you with late fees for those two months but this will be $141 for your title and registration, plus the penalties which should get you out of there under $300 to register this.
Then I reiterated: DO NOT TAKE ANY OF THAT OTHER STUFF INTO THEM, DO NOT SHOW IT TO THEM.
So what did he do? Took the whole goddamned PILE into the DMV and asked "what do I have to do to get this truck registered?"
He came back to ME to COMPLAIN that the REGISTRATION cost MORE THAN THE TRUCK DID!
Initial transfer and taxes on the first sale, plus penalties.
Second transfer and taxes on the SECOND sale, plus penalties.
THIRD transfer and taxes on the THIRD sale, plus penalties.
Then HIS TAXES for his buying the truck.... Ended up being $1143!!!!!
If you have a title, sign (or have some female sign) the damn thing, date it recently (Say 20 days ago if you wish)... go in and play dumb and say it was just parked in the yard forever and you had to trailer it out to your place and work on it for a few weeks to get it to run and pass inspection. Have your mother sign it. Have your girlfriend sign it. Just make sure they sign the right name. Female writing is flowery, I've never mastered it, have an accomplice.
Screw playing those games
just get it over with. You go in an ask what you need to do and you open a can of worms.Go in with a SINGLE title, signed, with YOUR name on it as the buyer and in some states you won't even need a bill of sale (California is like that!)
Sometimes, less is more. Sometimes less is less. And in this case, you want less. Make it fit their expectations and you will have an easy time of it.
OR you can Google the original owner, go dig her up, and have HER sign it.
But my advice is bring in a signed title with you and do it that way. They will hose you any other way.
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I have 2 40' standard sea containers:
Drop it on the ground, and put a couple of railroad ties underneath it...
Use the F250 to square it so when the SatFoto is taken it doesn't draw attention...
Fill it with stuff...
You know, like engines (this is not an efficient way to store them, make rolling carts!
I have one 48' Hi-Cube sea container.
I have two 45' Hi-Cube sea containers.
Jeff P has a 45' Hi-Cube sea container at my place as well with his stuff in it now as well.
I would not buy another 40' Standard. 45' Hi-Cube or if you don't have the space see if a 20' Hi-Cube is available.
I fantasized about buying 20' containers....but their price is within a couple hundred of a 45' H.C.!
I bought the last 45' H.C.'s for less than my first set of 40' standards.
You can fit 6 Z's in a 45' H.C. if you hoist them and block properly with 4X6's for long-term storage (waiting for that project to come together....)
That 48' thing has enough room for 6 Z's, Countless sets of rims stacked at the front end almost halfway up the wall, and a BBQ Grill at the back end.
Spiders, mostly. I put my stuff in containers because I can fumigate them and from that point the spiders don't get to me or my parts.
The NSF Stainless Steel rolling racks from Costco make nice parts shelves, and since they're modular, you can make all sorts of configurations with them.
Putting 4X4's up to the 7' level about every 2' and then flooring with subflooring gives you an overhead out of site storage area that 2 1/2 feet high, perfect for parts in milk crates, dashboards, body panels, etc...
I may hoard more than most. I'm looking to get another two 45' H.C.'s the next time the price dips. Pads are already prepped. Put them 20' apart, and with some 2X12's you can make a nice covered working area pretty darned cheap!
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That's why I mentioned if you take the temps regularly, it's best to put a flat white dot so you hit the same place every time, and on shiny surfaces you get a consistent temperature.
It's more than shiny stuff, Stainless Steel requires masking tape or a flat white or black dot spraypainted on it, SS has terrible emissivity.
Do this one little thing, and you're less than 0.1F different from an $800 gun, and one that you get just about anywhere for $20.
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They were priced there 5 years ago as well, at most $39.95 at Sears, but their smallest hand-held would go on sale for $19.95...actually that was in 1999-2002, seemed everybody LOVED that little meter so much they kept stealing them from me at jobsites...
I stll have my first I-R gun, which set the company back $756!
Right now, my next purchase being considered is a microbolometer from FLIR. The price on those has dropped precipitiously. No longer do you have to lug a dewar of LN2 around with you and fill up your camera. When that change happened in the early 90's pricing for cameras dropped quite a bit. Now, amazingly, you can get a decent low-resolution 320X240 camera for under $2K.
If you think an I-R gun gives you an idea what your engine is doing....shoot your engine bay or fuse box with a microbolometer camera (A.K.A. Thermal-Imaging Camera)
A tip on buying I-R guns: the more you pay doesn't mean much unless you are doing serious diagnostic work AT A DISTANCE. Meaning several yards. The confinement beam or dispersion of the I/R sensor is the main difference. I have current instrumentation that is CRAZY expensive, and frankly they are within 0.1 degree F of the cheap Autozone and Sears micro-guns. If you keep the gun within 6-10" (I usually go closer if I can, regardless) you will never have to worry about 'beam dispersion' and averaging of temperatures of something cold next to something hot. If you look on the side of most guns, there is a 'beam dispersion diagram' and it will tell you how large the sensor average size is, based on distance from the target. UNiversally, the closer you get, the better. On big 36+" ducts this is not an issue. On 3/8 and 1/4" lines in an A/C system it can lead to a big error.
Also if you do scans regularly, it pays to have a small flat-white spot painted on whatever it is you are testing. It gives a uniform emissivity surface, and if you are scanning Stainless Steel components, it's the ONLY way it will give a correct reading!
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" My L24 just randomly started overheating, nothing extreme, but the temps rise up to about 3/4 and then come back down. "
This isn't 'overheating'...
Have you verified the temperature of the thermostat housing or coolant going into the radiator when this happens?
Stock gauges are about useless, use and I-R Gun or a meat thermometer.
Sounds like a stock thermostat, actually, as mentioned above. Leaving the heater on "hot" without the fan blowing across it can sometimes cause this. Excursions are not an issue, and with the heat wave in the US recently people all over the US are getting a taste of what SoCal and the rest of the Desert Southwest deals with most of the year!
The change from smooth warmup to spiking temps says something is going on, probably with the thermostat...but like I said, leaving the heater on can exacerbate it.
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I/R gun shouldn't set you back more than $19.95 at most Auto Zones or Sears.
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Volvo 240's are your friend! They have all you will need, with good rubber on the boots, and a quick-release bail.
Toyotas are my favorite for AFM donors, since they used gold-plated pins on their AFMs...just need to get two connectors to make sure you have enough pins, and then move them accordingly.
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That plate is a crash-test fittment. Rear-end collapsing the tank into lower control arm will put the fuel suction line close to that point where it can be torn, as well as spreading out the sharp edge to keep it from tearing the tank. The exhaust effectively performs this function on the other side. That is a stock piece.
No, it's not stock, he has the world's cheapest excuse for a muffler on the back of the car...
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I love the plastic & metal emblems, however-decals are inexpensive, don't fall off and can't be stolen...
That you live in a place where people don't steal adhesive decals is wonderful...
Unfortunately, that statement is not true in Sunny Southern California. You would be AMAZED at what people TRY to steal. Admittedly stealing a sticker off a guys car would not be MY first thought of something to do...but finding half-removed stickers at car shows sometimes you wonder what/who you walked up upon unexpectedly and interrupted their work!
Emblem thieves require electrodes to the genitals, and a long, sustained run of amperage applied...
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I was going to say, 400 on an exhaust header is bad, indicating either misfire or other malady in the cylinder. Compression is likely good, you just have a bad cam lobe.
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The only thing I buy off the MATCO truck is my Redbacks...
As to this:
"For example, we never got any vehicles needing SAE so I avoided buying those tools from one of them and bought them from Harbor Freight or Sears instead."
When I left plant utilities and got into field service, when interviewed they asked me 'do you have tools?' My reply was 'what do I need, exactly?'---interviewer ran a list which basically was 'Standard Hand Tools, to 1-1/4", anything larger is provided by the company'
I nonchalantly said "That won't be a problem" while at the same time, inside my head, I was SCREAMING: "YOU DON'T HAVE A SINGLE ENGLISH SPANNER IN YOUR KIT TO SAVE YOUR OWN A$$!" (I had everything metric to 46mm from working on VW's and living in Japan for 5 years, and maybe a couple of English Tools from my first $39.95 Craftsman Kit I bought when I was 17...
So out I went and simply bought a $4K Craftsman set. It had doubles, and all sorts of crap I didn't need. I could have gotten EXACTLY what I needed from Proto for $10K and had half as much... but I went for volume of metal. And I had hand tools to 2-3/8"...WOOT!
Get out to the first jobsite and I'm working with and I notice my wrenches are fitting sloppily. So I ask the 25 year vet of the company about the tool situation and he says: "Oh yeah, these are all metrics...but nobody has metric tools so they just use the standard stuff, it works just fine!
I about crapped. I spent $4K on nothing I didn't already HAVE. To top it off, 7 months later my truck was broken into at a PYP in Wilmington (South Blinn) and a whole buttload of tools were taken. When inventorying them, the individual prices added up to over $10K... I asked the controller what to do, since I could buy another set of tools like I had (and they only took my top hand box, basically 3/8, 1/2 sockets, and Spanners...) and the guys says "Do whatever you can to get everything replaced as cheaply and quickly as possible"---so I bought another $4K set and duplicated everything I already had...
Moral of the story:
1) Find out from the guys ON THE JOB what you will need, not some talking head or recruiter.
2) BUY TOOL INSURANCE AS A RIDER ON YOUR RENTER'S OR HOMEOWNERS INSURANCE! It's cheap, cheaper than cheap!
You get ripped off on stuff you financed, if you don't have insurance...YOU'RE SCREWED!
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I think you better look again, NISMO headers (JDM) are not in JonCutThroat's post (I blew up the dinky photo and looked, my calling them NISMO in the previous post is in error) they are "NISSAN MOTORSPORTS" Headers, and are not the factory engineered pieces. They carry a 99996-XXXXX part number, indicating the purchase from an outside (usually US) vendor. The NISMO headers (shown in the 'How to Modify' book as 'Stainless Steel') come to a three-bolt, two-pipe flange at the junction between the engine and transmission, hence their universal application status.
Do NOT confuse "NISMO" with "NISSAN MOTORSPORTS"---they are TWO DISPARATE AND COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENTITIES ON TWO DIFFERENT CONTINENTS.
Just because it was offered here in the USA does NOT make it a 'factory engineered' part. It may have been sold through Datsun Dealers, but it wasn't coming from Japan necessarily. The NISMO part had a conventional part number, not the 9/6-XXXXX numbers for outside vendor-sourced parts.
Nissan Motorsports USA bought parts from people and vendors, they rarely designed or engineered anything themselves. When they did have a Nissan Engineered part, likely it was from another application in the JDM (like the diesel springs for the gasoline powered oil pumps....)
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The low battery voltage contributing to your cut out above 4500 rpms is classic dirty connections, I think if you clean all the ECU pins, sensor connections, and injector connections you will have even better response above that point.
The resistance builds in the injector connectors primarily, and that inhibits their correct working, if it's acute enough the ECU goes into failsafe and your mileage goes all to hell!
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Don't know if this will work, but here's an RX7 used in the same way from 1987:
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Uh, REVERSE THOSE DIMENSIONS!
You won't see anything in those locations, but your PASSENGER will work wonders telling you where to go!
The diagram is for a RHD vehicle, posted by Alan Thomas at Classic Z website. There IS a proper LHD interposition if you are mounting them on an LHD vehicle listed there.
You will be sorely disappointed with the field of view in an LHD car, if you mount the mirrors in the RHD position.
Yes, it DOES make that much difference!
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Where are you taking this temperature???
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it also changes the flywheel register diameter, if it fit on the spacer, it would be obvious when bolting it up.
It was funny to be discussing it, say something like "Unless you're really into top-end stuff you probably won't recognize it" then literally turn the corner to see a distributor where you least expected to see it!
Hell, if I'm going to spend 1700 for a 20 footer, I may as well spend that much for the larger one (usually within $300 each of a 20')
just get it over with. You go in an ask what you need to do and you open a can of worms.
any members on here live in ireland?
in Non Tech Board
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Too bad it wasn't one month later, the Spa Historic 6-Hours is going on then and I warrant you would see more than one Z there running!
And me there as well!