Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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There is a contention elsewhere that BRE was a "Factory" race team as well.
Competition Contract with a sales branch of a company (like say, you local dealer) does NOT a 'Factory Team' Make...
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It was a standard 77 L28 from a Cedric with an automatic. It has an N42 head with no injector cutouts nor injector manifold mounting holes. The point being it was a standard 'high compression' L28 and it worked just fine to make that kind of turbo horsepower. Nothing internal was done, it was all purely bolt-on goodies to get the power level to that point.
Mid 200's is child's play on a turbo! These guys stress too much after reading misinformation on the interwebs...
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You guys realize simply using two Metric Pad-Eyes screwed into the block diagonally (yes, into the head bolt holes) will be enough to lift the CAR off the ground, and will easily handle the engine.
They will cost maybe $6 each for forged units capable of lifting, as I said, the entire CAR...
<EDIT> Wow, prophetic cost prediction: Clickety Click!
Personally I have a length of chain with two large washers welded to the end links that I screw standard bolts into the head bolt holes and lift the block with...
But since he has those nice hooks...may as well put a pad-eye there!
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13.8 nominal... And where are you measuring that at???
Read JeffP's 'Extreme 280ZXT' webpage on 'alternator' and see what he went through to get consistent voltage AT IDLE (where you generally are running on BATTERY ALONE) from his charging system.
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EGT isn't the end all of cylinder health. It's not a consistent reporter of AFR.
The way to do it is 6 WBO2's...and individual EGT's. This is what you have on an engine dyno.
A colortune in the front three, and another in the back three will get you what you need to compare carb mixture setting.
Same for any of the other two.
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What you both need to realize ESPECIALLY with high-flow pumps, is that when the fuel is heated it looses vapor pressure. It turns to gasseous state easier. If you are NOT running a carbon cannister on your car, with the proper pressure blanket on the fuel in the tank (it's several inches H2O before it relieves to the carbon tank, or the crankcase/air filter) then you can CAVITATE the inlet of the pump. This makes your fuel pressure drop, or you have delivery problems. It can be severe enough to damage the pump. NPSH is not something to screw with, but everybody pulls these 'emissions' items off their cars without understanding that there IS some other engineered practical functions they also perform. When you remove them, you take the perceived bad out with all the imperceptible good...then wonder why the problems arise!
The state change WILL NOT HAPPEN between the pump and the engine compartment. It can happen as the system COOLS after the fuel expands and the FPR relieves pressure...then as it cools and contracts pressure drops to the point where it flashes (making pressure rise and FPR to relieve...) and before long you only have gasseous fuel in the line. But if the engine is running, the process should never occur on that pressurized part of the system unless you are getting temperatures above the pressure-point boiling temperature (this would be somewhere around 250-300F from what I remember---check the vapor pressure and boiling points of the fuel you are using, and extrapolate for the pressures you run...)
BUT at that no-pressure inlet? Where you are drawing a partial vacuum at the inlet of the pump? Remember high school chemistry where you boiled water at room temperature? Well....how well does a fuel pump push a bubble of gasseous liquid fuel? It doesn't. And then you drop pressure. And THEN you my get into flashing in the fuel rail.
But the origin is at the INLET side of the pump, not the engine end! The act of quick pressure dropping will cause it. And that is sourced at pickup side of the pump.
If you think about the 'surge tank' design, what do you do? Run a couple PSI on the pump inlet? And run a continuous flow of fuel at low pressure thorough it with a low-pressure pump? It never works hard on the boost side, and keeps the inlet of the HP Pump flooded at far more pressure than you get from the original Carbon Cannister Check-Valve.
As to the "hot fuel/cold fuel" remember the days when they had above ground tanks and all the old people in town would be up before the sun to go get a fueling in their Oldsmobiles before the 'hot gas' happened. It's so bad some distribution outlets have sued refineries. The expansion physically can be measurable, but the density change (and resultant BTU Content) can vary GREATLY! Temperature-Compensated pumps are the standard in CNG Dispensing. It's the only way you get a consistent 'GGE'--gallon gas equivalent--the gallons you see may be 13CuFt, it may be 11 CuFt, depending on temperature. (Given the BTU of the NG is consistent at say 980BTU/CuFt) There has been a call in California recently to mandate temperature-compensated pumps as consumer, and business protection device. It's known refineries dispatch "Hot Gas" and dip the tankers when they leave. Last guy on the route ALWAYS gets a 'Short Fill'---anybody who has dipped tanks at a gas station knows the numbers always are off, and in hot weather, by more than when cold. And they absorb the costs as there is no compensation from their distribution network. If they pump temperature-compensated fuel, the consumer gets a consistent BTU content in their mass flow, and then the dispensers can back-charge the refinery for 'lost gas' due to them not dispatching tankers with temperature-compensated meters to fill their bulk tanks...
I digress...
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Don't know anything about AC Ducks, but the DC Ducks are famous:
No venting needed, no AC in DC!
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Oh look, Luke, you're Pod Racing again. Where are those pesky sand people with the guns to make this interesting???
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I get it alot being a FACTORY Rep. The guys wear our name on their uniforms, and their customers say 'the factory guy said'...
At which point, I usually rudely interupt them and ask for a name. If it's not ME, or one of about 13 other FACTORY guys...you did NOT hear it from a factory guy, you heard it from a DISTRIBUTOR and that is a BIG learning curve difference (and informational access bridge to cover!)
I worked for "Brand Grey Box" in the USA and even the guys in our "HQ" back east would say we were 'the factory'...and I'd say 'We're a sales company' (Nissan Motor Sales USA comes to mind...) They would argue with me, but when it came down to it, and I asked the questions like "How many Engineers do we have working on NEW product (not engineered packages for an end user)?" or "How much engineering input did we have on the mechanical redesign on the new compression element?" When it was obviously "none" it became clear, we only sold stuff, and maybe engineered solutions to our market under the umbrella of the parent company in Europe. Same for NMC USA, they did the exact same thing, but didn't write corporate policy. That came from Japan.
I have to make the distinction, because it does make a difference. When the lawyers subpoena you... it REALLY makes a difference. Usually they won't get a distributor mechanic to testify, other than to what he did. For engineering, it comes to the parent company...i.e. 'The Factory Guy'... There are hundreds of "Nissan 'Factory Certified' Technicians" but the number of FACTORY SERVICE MECHANICS rarely was ever over 6 in the USA, and they received training directly from Nissan Japan. It bugs me to this day to hear guys say 'I was a Nissan Factory Mechanic for 20+ Years'---and NEVER did they receive a paycheck from NMC USA, or NMC Japan. If that wasn't who issued your paycheck buddy, you were a distribution mechanic (even if it was a company owned store!)
VW was VERY good at this differentiation (figure the Germans have regimentation and documentation)they would have a list of 'factory approved locally manufactured tools' and there were 'factory tools' which you bought from VW, and you didn't get access to them unless you were an authorized VW Distributor. "Factory Training" with VW was tremendous back in the 'old days' when the Air Cooled Machinery was still current.
I digress...
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Another John Galt conversion...
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I would say 'anti seize' for the balancer could take many forms. It's not welding due to heat, but relative high frequency vibration. Green Cylindrical locking compound (Loctite 608 for instance) would accomplish the same thing: prevent movement and separate the two metals from making detrimental contact.
Actually, what they are doing in Japan these days is eliminating the single woodruff key, and runing a SOLID key front-to-back with an accompanying broach in whatever component needs it (if they oversize to save a crank, for instance)---this gives far more contact area and stops the 'wallowing' of the woodruff key in the dampner slot from too much stress put on too little an area.
VW's would have similar cold-welding occur when aluminum A/N Fittings were put into the AS41 cases...in most cases people just left them loose under the thought that the leak was something you needed to live with. A few people in the know used Loctite Green to lock those fittings in place, keep them from leaking, AND prevent the galling/cold-welding phenomenon. Those who used PTFE Tape lived with loose fittings that leaked eventually anyway (and in some cases had threads of tape in bearings, etc...)
The big issue on the snout of the crank is movement and fretting. Steel-to-Steel will cold weld under those conditions, so molykote, C5A, or locking compound will stop it. I'd defer to locking compound. A little heat on the snout, it releases, and off it comes. Molykote would be my second choice as I've used it previously and you can burnish it in to prevent galling and cold welding, but it can still suffer from fretting if the nut comes loose even a little bit. C5A is more for threads it would work as a release compound, but neither Molykote or C5A would prevent movement like locking compound would. It comes at the cost of a little inconvenience at teardown. But if it saves the crank AND balancer....
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Our $500 LeMons car had somewhere in the area of $5000+ in the safety stuff alone and that was cut-rate-secondhand almost everything but the seat harness. The rest concentrated on a stock engine and making the parts dead-set reliable. I don't know about brake upgrades and all that, seems to me if John Morton made it all those years... and LeMans retired from Differential Problems, I'm thinking brake upgrades need only be limited to pads, fluids, and operational necessities like changing pads when needed.
In the end, it was failures of things which never should have failed that put us out of the race. Damper on the front end, large plymouth with big bumpers tearing off the front half of the car, etc...
I'm with John C on Safety, Reliability, and Repeatability, especially in ANY sort of endurance competition. The race doesn't necessarily go to the fastest, but to the guys who stay out there making laps while the rabbits refuel, refit, and retire!
Being there at the end is what matters. Get that down first, and consistently...THEN start adding speed!
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They didn't use it in Japan for testing the EFI or ECCS. It was sourced through Kent-Moore USA by Nissan NA for distribution and sales to their authorized outlets.
We called them 'idiot boxes' at the time, almost anything they do, you can do with common electrical test instruments.
Frankly, I realized my CAS was bad using an O-Scope, when that damnable ECCS tester said it was good!
I digress...
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"On a hot day in Syracuse, at the convention, I pumped out 265 RWHP with the stock motor and ECCS in place."
That was on that neat all-wheel dyno brake setup that guy brought in the van, right? That almost had me change careers into "Portable Dyno Owner Business"!
JeffP is an inveterate cheapskate, and I can't get him to buy a whole ZX Tankfull of C16 Racing Fuel, so he miserly pours it into the tank 5 gallons at a time, and it wasn't long before I realized we had a 'perfect tune' on our first three pulls, then foudn issues after letting the engine cool and making another pass where the AFR's went all over the place.
Exactly the same thing you are seeing at idle! And that carries on. More sophisticated systems (Z31) have that fuel temp sensor, I don't see why MS couldn't incorporate the same sensor and stop all this BS, it's the same basic coding chart as for battery compensation or CLT compensation (run it Inverse to CLT, for instance hotter fuel gets more pulsewidth instead of colder) and this would cease to be a problem.
There, now have your codewriter guys do this for you and we are all better off! Frankly this just came to me and I'm shocked that it could actually be that easy to implement and would really help with the situation on the MS.
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The key to this is that the change in AFR is NOT due to 'vapor state change'---it is due to Density of the fuel changing. Less dense fuel (hot) has less heating content (BTU's) per volume injected. This is why the pulsewidth stays the same, yet the AFR goes 'lean'...
This is why drag racers run a 'cool can'---your fuel being close to 0C has a constant, and relatively constant heating content for the whole run. If you ran your fuel through your A/C line to cool it to sub-zero you would get more fuel heating value to the engine than when it's 45C (typical temperature on half a tank or less running in the summer...)
Points on proper operation of the injectors are also correct as mentioned.
The problem is heat in the fuel, not to a vaporization point...but enough to change the density and heating value of the fuel making it go lean.
Cool that fuel, or keep it at a constant temperature (relatively) and you will cease having these issues.
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That's it, as long as the fuel pump has the flow at the pressure, there should be no problems. You will effectively have 500CC injectors++ with the higher pressure (4 bar VS 3 Bar), so you will have to re-tune accordingly.
The only practical advantage will be the vapor point increase in the rail. As I mentioned previously, there IS a SARD Fuel Cooler available now to keep the temperatures under control on the fuel side.
Just realize 4-5 psi isn't going to do much for you, on suppression that is.
It's not really doing anything for you from the 'atomization' standpoint.
JeffP was running a 4 Bar base pressure (60psi) to get higher capacity from existing 450CC Mercedes Injectors. This is the most common reason for doing it, as you stated. Even with the higher pressure, the phenomenon of changing AFR's still occurred.
It's not changing state, the BTU content changes due to less dense fuel. THIS is the root of the problem, not 'vaporization'... You are heating the entire fuel tank (exacerbated below 1/4 tank for sure!) This is why newer cars with tighter emissions standards incorporate fuel temperature sensors (this is on the Z31 box, and usually jumpered high on conversions.)
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To be honest, Mikuini PHH40's run about 2,000 yen each at any automotive swap meet in Japan. Go there, and get some Mikuinis. Chances are they will be complete, and for $80 you got a set of carbs on your manifold that will be able to get service parts at just about any Toyota Dealer in the nation.
Better fuel mileage with the same performance as well.
From a practical standpoint, that is how I would proceed if I was living in Japan. You can always get the Weber parts -- but then it's nothign urgent, and you can 'browse' and pick them up at your leisure for prices not making them worth more than ones machined out of solid gold...
Misawa ain't THAT remote!
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I went by the Eraring Power Station (Eraring/Dora Creek Australia), after they are done with the upgrade, they will make 2.88GW...
Google Earth it, you will see what it takes to generate 2.88 GW from coal!
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There was one at one time...
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I haven't seen anybody mention it yet, but you should be able to go against the insurance on your friend's claim for the additional $1500 of your deductible.
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"Sent the kids home yesterday little one's first day of school, wanted to be there for her, but this kind of makes up for it all..."
What a refreshing revelation of osmeone who has his head in the right place. A little portion of that winning money sack should set the little one up in a good school some day!
And Boris... I think Boris is a little ticked. I think he's got the right idea, just go find him when there aren't any cameras around. (I've never done that!)
Boris, a bit of advice for next time the crew gets in the way: "Sweep the leg!"
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Can always just hang around for a couple of weeks in Wendover...World of Speed is September 14-17, right?
<edit> STILL in the Philippines, but headed to Malaysia later today. And so starts the slooooow trip back to the USA in time for the previously mentioned engagement...
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Use the speed sensor from a manual transmission, 1991 240SX. Bolts in like any other speedo pinion and meshes perfectly to give you a modern speed sensor on any older L-Engine Tranny.
This is in the archives with further details.
It's my gift for the day.
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And how does it differ in sound? I'm missing something here, other than the loud backfires...
Yeah, that was an 'odd' header, not your typical LY, but obviously a good enough attempt at a head conversion that it had most fooled! No big advertisements, and made from a SINGLE head. Probably easier than the other CF option everybody drools over here...
All it takes is time, money, and a willing engineering works and you can just about do anything you want.
Frankly, I like the look of this one, "very OEM-Like" the Red Wrinkle-Painted Valve Cover is a nice touch.
disabling the injector cutoff and high idle?
in Nissan L6 Forum
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why remove the fuel cut? It only operates on decel, and without it your fuel mileage will be cut to about 65-75% of what it currently is, along with pumping out so much hydrocarbon residue you could light the exhaust and support a flame...
If you think the exhaust stinks now, remove fuel cut on decel!