Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The chokes are way to big for a stock sized stock configured engine. But that is not your problem.
What is your throttle angle set at initially? Did you set up your throttle plates with a feeler gauge for initial idle speed then adjust down from there when you synched them?
What is your manifold vacuum at idle, and has it been set to idle around 900rpms or are the throttle plates closed?
Not making any difference from 3 - 6 turns means something is inactivating the idle circuit. You should be able to kill a cylinder at six turns out (by turns we mean 360 degrees from seat, not 180 degrees of the screwdriver slot.)
When other carbs do this, I pull the carbs off to see if the PO has cranked the idle screws in so tight he broke the tips off in the idle holes. Then you gotta pop those tips out, and replace the needles...
Lots of possibilities, vague if mostly nonexistent information. Hard to be specific. None of the basics were discussed as being done, or how they were done so it's all guessing at this point.
Again, the chokes are way too big for a stock engine, but that has nothing to do with it not idling.
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Some suggest a 3.4 is what you need under that head to make power at 8,000 or so....
That should make for more than enough breathing on an L28 at 9K+
Big Bores, Short Strokes, Long Rods breathe nicely!
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O-Ring seal on the back of the manifold to the head? Or gasket? That Throttle Body and Trumpet almost makes me want to go N/A.
Almost....
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They know it is just a matter of time before they are humiliated again... LOL
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Near Ellsworth or Grand Forks? Photos?
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Jenvey makes throttle bodies that are 20mm wide, since the injectors are in the manifold, no need for the standard 109mm length!
I think the bolt pattern is different on 50-55-58 from 36-40-45's... The bore can always be ported conventionally. The SK Manifolds were set up the same externally for the 40 or 45.... the dedicated 40 manifold tapered from 40 to 25mm (whatever the stock L20A port size was) and the 45 was tapered to the larger L24 port size, like 30mm.
Don't know positively and can't find anything quickly right now on 55DCOEs with dimensions. The EFI Hardware site seems to indicate that 40-50 is the same dimensions given the stuff on their technical data drawing page. https://www.efihardware.com/efi_documents_technical.php
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Oil Operating Temperature is 180F minimum. Don't discount a pan heater even at 80/90. Plug it in trackside and it will semi-warm the water as well. The big thing is the oil is at operating temperature and viscosity at first crank up...giving you the same lubricity you want from a multi-vis when stone cold.
The Accusump makes it somewhat moot. I still like the heater, for oil and water. No cold-circuit enrichment issues to sort that way for a lazy EFI tuner! LOL
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Did you happen to get a drawing of a 55 DCOE mating flange when you set up those carb-end manifolds? I think you researched and found the Honda guys were using up to 54mm ITB's.
The OS Project ongoing found the N/A size required to run was 52mm at the intake flange (310CFM) and then it was losing flow from the intake and the ITB Throttle Shaft. The ITB used was a 55mm opening, and tapered to a 52mm Butterfly.
Feedback given was 'they run along at 1,500 in fifth gear in traffic just fine' which seems amazing. There is a video online now running along and matting it with theOS HEad and 55 carbs. Very nice. This one flows around there... and can likely get better. Mowhahahaha!
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The Dutch don't do anything for free, and have an bitter taste in their mouth because their country was used as a free tank-driving zone for a weekend in Paris by Adolf a few years back...
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Passenger cars are doing it in a large part due to emissions requirements (a key part of elimination of Catalyst-Poisoning Zinc and Phosphorous--can't have that if you must warrant a catalyst for 10yrs / 100,000miles!), that's a whole different ball game.
The accepted way to start a wedge is to make one before you crank the engine.
A Canton Accusump is the standard answer to starting a high compression engine safely. Even SCCA realizes it and allows it in stock classes.
I run a Canton and prelube while cranking with standard straight weight oil (and a sump heater.)
Many people start cranking without ignition on, and then flip the switch once they see oil pressure.
Many ways to make a wedge and get oil to the bearings to prevent startup cranking damage. 0W-50 doesn't do anything for you when the oil sloshes and you suck air in the pickup either. An Accusump, on the other hand will save your engine!
Which begs the question, does this engine HAVE and Accusump?
Multi-Vis dead dinosaurs is light oil made to act heavier, and when degradation starts you break down to THIN oil.
Straight Weight oil is thick oil which breaks down to thinner oil over a greater period of time with much more protection.
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I bought a Turbo, a G-Nose, and got notified from Japan my HKS Surge Box shipped to my office today!
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I you were willing to tow one in rough shape I have one in one of my containers you could work a sweet deal on.... But your visit would have to coincide with when I come back for either January or April (MSA)... You could buy the cosmetic and mechanical parts, install them, and ship with all those parts coming in basically duty free! LOL
It's gold....but needs work!
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^^^I got similar, towing a trailer loaded with 800# of stuff at similar speeds. Nothing below 3,500 on the freeway. Averaged 22mpg over 16,000 miles of driving in three total weeks. This includes some stretches where I was running 5,250 rpms for two tankfuls of gas across southern Missouri and into Oklahoma... I think foolishness like that pulled down my average quite a bit!
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I just read this post. Low pressure could have been the oil pump. Make sure to change it out on rebuild. As far as oil, there is plenty of info on the web. Bobistheoilguy. How hard you push it on track and how much you spent on that engine should influence your decision. I stay away from additives and straight weight oils. Most damage happens on start up. For a severe duty L6 stick with a multi-grade at least 40w or more for higher temps and to allow margin for some degredation. 40W oil turns into 35W oil when contaminates are introduced.
I can't think of a reason straight-weight oils would be detrimental. Multi-Vis oils were designed for frigid climates to pump up topside quickly and get out to bearings in arctic temperatures. Unless you're ice-racing at -40, and not running a pan heater there really is no advantage to multi-vis at operating temperatures especially with compounded dead dinosaurs.
While a 40WT loses some viscosity at temperature, it it a 40WT base-stock and degrades from there.
Multi-Vis 10W-40 is a 10WT Base Stock with compounding thickeners to ACT like a 40WT, and when it gets overtemperature it goes back rapidly to Base-Stock viscosity and degrades from there.
This is not the case with synthetic, which can be compounded to do the opposite and thicken with temperature. Baker Neo has some 0W-50 that pours in like WATER but drains like thick syrup when hot. Amazing stuff.
If you are in a stable climate, and warm the engine up in the pits (or use a sump heater) Straight Weight is fine, the lower 'fuel saving' features of low viscosity oil will not really pay much benefit. The lowest viscosity you can run to keep adequate oil pressure and protect the bearings from journal contact running is the oil that gives you the best power.
Honestly we would run half ATF and Half 30 Wt in our Corvair Ice Racer for a super high detergent mix of about 20wt.... and yes, that's how it works with straight weights. I have had major oil companies suggest mixing ISO VG32 and ISO VG46 to get a viscosity in-between for customers that need more film strength than an ISO VG32 provides, but are unwilling to pay the power cost penalty that running an ISO VG 46 would entail (about 10% higher power costs...on something cranking 310 Amps, and power running around $3,500 per amp, per month....you can see why!)
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The Emergency Relief Valve should pop at 10psi, and if you wire your wastegate shut it will lift on a stock turbo and run you along happily at 10psi all day long.
Which is, incidentally, where the stock ECCS Mapping ends... Which is why when you take a stock ECCS and start cranking up boost (with the ERV Plugged) it will not make any more power after 10 psi and start running progressively leaner. At 10psi the stock ECCS is around 14:1 at 5,000 rpms....which is fine, but....
At only 8psi it will not make you slow down and stop as described. I would still plug it, but I doubt the issue is the ERV. I wired my wastegate shut on my 84 Skyline and ran it on the ERV for about two weeks to see if bad things would happen. It survived. Then I sold it to a guy from WV. He seemed to enjoy the stock boost. Meh.
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A Megasquirt using a WBO2 and proper fueling discipline will do that. Do you have emissions that need to be passed and catalysts that have to live?
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I did with Mikuni Carb Blow Throughs too, but I wouldn't recommend anybody follow that route! LOL
"I see a megasquirt on the horizon..."
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There were at one time 3.08's out there as well.
The new larger diffies have a 2.72 and 3.XX available, but they're not R200's.
In Europe they fit BMW 3rd Members as 'there are ratios whatever you want' there for that unit.
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I have run several different oils in different cars. The Vair got Baker Neo in the engine and Amsoil in the trans. I use Redline in the trans and in the TurboZ.
The Bus has had Amsoil in it since 79 when I changed it due to it being the only damn oil I could get that would let me shift gears at -40 without holding all the gears against the balk rings to warm them up and soften the oil.... I briefly let it drain out, for about 30,000 miles when the tranny died. Once I replaced it with the new tranny, it lasted about a month before the reduction gears burned up the oil driving at 80 out to Phoneix one june... and Amsoil went back in and been in there ever since.
Amsoil
Baker Neo
Redline
Royal Purple
Mobil 1 (but only because that was all they had in Alabama)
Used all the above.
Synthetic does way different things when it gets hot and severe duty, something dead dinosaurs can never do: Get thicker with the heat! It's really neat to talk to a Petroleum Engineer. I suggest one day if you're around the area, at any Cafe in Houston or Dallas strike up a conversation. They get off describing how the molecules work. They may not even notice you didn't leave a tip on the check!
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Pao is a cool car.
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There was one posted on Datsun Parts Group FB site last night. Very nice white 280Z in the SF Bay Area.
You went to the wrong coast! Tell your company next year do the right thing and have a convention in Las Vegas!
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"Wanted, information leading to the arrest and conviction of the Yuppie Scum that broke the back window of my 240Z and stole my cargo straps for his Mini Cooper."
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Oh no, son.... that 'aroudn the back of the block line' is PLUGGED! The Mikuni Kit comes with a flush-seal pipe plug to seal that hole.
The head fitting at the top of #6 blug goes to the heater, and coming out of the heater it will go to the lower radiator hose inlet fitting. If you want a proper bypass, an 8mm line around the front of the engine to a fitting on the same inlet fitting will do fine. Or plug it and don't get rev happy until the thermostat is cracked open.
My PCV is the stock orifice/check valve that is screwed into one end of a manifolded 1/2" fuel rail extrusion that taps all the cylinder runners, and goes to the lower block fitting just like stock--a 90 degree brass street elbow points it nicely the way you need it to go to simply take the stock heat-resistant silver PCV hose and turn it straight up and cut the 90 off it's end. On the opposite end is a fitting from an 82 280ZX that attaches to the Brake Booster line. HEADERS MAY COMPLICATE THIS CONSIDERABLY (I am running a cast iron turbo manifold.)
The upper hose from the pcv is from an old 81 ZXT and incorporates the flame arrestor, under the manifold it connects to a nylon 15-12mm adapter and then a 1/2" cross with three pieces of 1/2" PCV hose running off each of the three available barbs to each air cleaner. When I had my ITG single filter, the hose with the flame arrester in it went straight to the aluminium back plate of that filter housing directly.
any idea what this header is?
in Exhaust
Posted
They are the A.I.R. Fittings, for the parts off the stock mainfold to retain them.
There was a time when all you had to do was keep emissions components in place and functioning and the part was legal.
Now those are "illegal" in CA because they don't have a C.A.R.B. E.O. Number... go figure. What was legal is now illegal because they changed the process for new parts and didn't grandfather in existing parts. Sounds like "Some Animals are More Equal than Others..."