Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Paying for a pretest to avoid "Gross Polluter" tag is always prudent if you suspect something.
Get out the FSM, start at EM page 1 and do a tune up starting with a proper hot valve adjustment. That is FIRST.
A bad valve adjustment will alter cam timing enough to fail you.
Likely you have killed your catalyst but you got to get the engine running properly first before you go on a highway blast to see if you can clean off the catalytic substrate...
Start with your basics.
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The AFM is out of the equation doing nothing once you are WOT and on boost over about 3,000 rpms.
It is only active in part-throttle situations and lower RPM's. The stock N/A's "outflow the AFM" at aroudn 3,500 when the box goes to a preprogrammed fueling curve.
it's not a MAF sensor, it is NOT active through the whole load scalar range of the engine giving source feedback for the fueling of the engine.
It opens, the ECU/ECCS is "open loop" and on a preprogrammed curve.
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Well, to be a fellow necroposter, the only engines I run synthetic in are air cooled and turbos...
My Corvair lost a belt at the top of Willow Big Track and made it back to the pits (didn't realize it was gone until the slight straight going into the turn for the front straight past the pits.)
Oil temp gauge was pegged well past 150C gauge limit.
Thought it would be 'bearing city' like when I threw a belt on the 405 and coasted to the off ramp. The synthetic held together and saved my bearings. Marc Natale recommended it to me, having the same sort of failure going uphill into the turn at the top of Big Willow and was well past the water barrel going back downhill before noticing himself. Like me, he had trashed an engine before when the oil went over 300F using dead dinosaurs...
After that, he used Synthetic, and convinced me to change my Straight 40 Wt inmy VW and Corvair to Synthetic as well.
FWIW...
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Our L28 was fine over 9.000 as well. The cam wasn't set up for that because we didn't need it.Same cam in the L20A, in the same head.
It's not an 'either or' as you presented it. Not by a longshot.
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Any L20A will be soggy with 45mm ITB's, and an rpm potential (demonstrated no-valve float of 12,500+)... The L28 was much more torquey, but we didn't have 5-series gears. I addressed the inability of some to properly select gearing and tire heights for the track they're running.
You're convinced and I'm not changing your mind so I'm not even engaging in trying to bust your paradigm.
You just grew up on the wrong side of the pond, and you know what you know.
The L28 has no practical limitation, and the issues about 'dwelling' in the region on-track were already adequately addressed by John Coffey in his comments.
I continued to take your troll baiting. I'm at an end. Build what you want and I'll snicker when that one blows up, as well.
There's nothing like watching someone who knows it all convince themselves of something and then fullfilling their own prophecy.
Andy and I once had a guy with a V8 Z lecture us about how the deck was stacked at the SCTA towards Roadsters and how a car like the Z would never become points champion due to the politics involved, and the 'inherent inability of the Z-Car Aerodynamics to exceed 155 mph". We took points champion that year, and in fact were first in points at that point and had just made a 163mph+ pass that day when the guy approached us...
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What's wrong with a pickle in your arse?
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What does that pipe go to? As I recall, the Mikuini Kid came with a bevy of flush plugs to block such things. What is your intent with the water flow from that fitting, since you don't have a warming circuit in the manifold anymore?
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"I'd like to use my Sunbelt cam which revs to 7700 and that really isn't what the 3.3L is about."
Only in America.
There is a 3.4 being built right now with full intentions of seeing 8,500.
On the street.
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I'm sure you could find a way to bolt it on. Heck, anything can be a bolt on. Whether or not it works or not is the question. I'm going to bolt on a frozen turkey for the extra torques.
As long as you can get over the obvious hurdle of leaving two cylinders at the rear of the engine uncovered, I guess that's true.
The ignorance of the interwebs is never to be underestimated.
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depends if the guy has money or not. Sue a skunk and all you get is smell.
They'll confiscate the car for evidence and depending on it's status and the state laws you might not get it back.
Depends what he paid, and what your states small claims limit is. Injunctive relief even at $5,000 as a discount is a nice round number to take from small claims court.
You are under $250 total expenses and then have a court order with which you can file for all sorts of things. Like turning it to a credit bureau for collection. Or making a personal call with the sheriff and confiscating his things for payment in kind.
This is out-and-out FRAUD. The guy KNEW what was up, then knowingly MISREPRESENTED IT IN SALES.
That's criminal.
So you lose the car? SO WHAT? You have a car now that you can not sell. It's an illegal reVIN.
It's one thing to do this crap in your back yard for your own purposes. Doing it for profit crosses an ethical barrier and needs severe punishment be dealt to discourage it.
How would YOU like to find this out about YOUR car?
This guy needs to FRY.
A significant Small Claims judgement can be a helluva way to make a guys life miserable. If nothing else, that's the least of what this bastard should undergo.
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You would be amazed at what shows up cheaply overseas on some auction sites...
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Or, you can just order the oil pump drive spindle and gear assembly for an LD28...
People take the cranks, but leave so many other useful bits behind!
There was an NTN Bearing that slipped down in the hole and over the spindle. Herve Oluette used one on his 73 Z (The Silver L-Engine that was on the Electramotive page for so long, and also the silver Z in the Nissan "Dream Garage" Commercial.) he put a core plug in after packing the top of the cavity "just in case"!
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I can, there's a Vendor's forum for a reason. Ethics are ethics.
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Interesting, the exact same post across two forums now....
Wonder how many more?
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Everything from the head out is open IIRC. ITBs or a custom plenum intake.
I think he's somewhat leery of the latter given our recent experiences...
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Interesting note that they don't have a dual-MAP sensor to altitude compensate.
You might want to contact 123 and suggest that for N/A people it's a bigger deal than the boosties.
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I have 8 Conex Boxes and need just a few more to get it all sealed up nice and hermetic-like...
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Rags, Have you considered sending a cover to Derek to be 3D Scanned and then recast out of 356 Aluminium? He could add strength in the areas needed.
Additionally, besides me does anybody else have one of those covers set up for the OEM differential cooler as found on the S130's, Z31's, etc found in Europe?
Screened oil pickup for differential cooler pump and return fittings? Billet opens up the possibility to move those outlets around a bit to better suit retrofits...
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Did someone say 'FREE PARTS'?
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Correction: 280 tanks TO 6/76 are full sized tanks.
AFTER 6/76,they are space-saver, and the later style.
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^^^ Buy one of those aluminum oil filter blowout rings if you run higher pressure.
Nothing sucks more than getting to a high rpm, and having the o-ring gasket at the base of the oil filter blow out and dump all your engine down the side of the engine (if you're lucky, and it doesn't blow UP and go on the hood, valve cover, alternator...)
The fit around the base-gasket of the oil filter giving a backup and proper O-Ring Style seal.
If you notice your oil filter is bulging, take a magnet to it and ONLY buy filters with STEEL cases. There ARE aluminium ones out there, and on VW's they would blow out with cold oil!
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Well, the internet has started already...
Last night, on FB in a Datsun Engine Group someone made the comment "I heard a K20 is a Bolt-On"
And you guys wonder why guys doing these kind of projects conspire in secret?
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I was going to mention it, but Chickenman got it right, use the MAP/RPM box below your normal idle range to bump timing up 2 or 3 degrees. If the car stumbles off idle, the ignition advances to bring it back up to speed. The old TECII from Electramotive would do this as a supplement to idle air bypass if there wasn't an actual IAC on the engine. It works really well to prevent drop throttle stalling from flogging it off-idle.
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"Yeah I used to know my ticket number."
HAHAHAHA! Spoken like a true Berg Acolyte! I used to use my rocker shaft and rocker arms invoice number for everything until one day when Gene said "I see you in here all the time, and that's the same number you used last time."
After that, I made up a little laminated card to show him the numbers and the items bought.
I showed it to him once. After that...it must have made an impression on him because after that it was 'You're the guy in LaHabra, right?'
I didn't plan on sailing away, and now living offshore with punitive vehicular importation tarriffs.... I kinda am stuck with a yard full of Z's Kombis, and the odd Corvair, Opel, and assorted Meccanica....
Too loud for track noise requirement
in Exhaust
Posted
Don't whittle it or anything. Making the choo choo noise is entertaining to the grandkids, but customized flatulence annoys the stewards...