Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Thanks for the corrections on the "core plug".
I have read and still have the Berg Technical Articles. I was fortunate enough to meet and have multiple conversations with Gene Berg. Not that I can say I know him personally.
I ordered my first berg engine kit in 1989. I wanted a street motor with performance and gas mileage. I decided on a 2110cc combo Engle 120 cam, 42 dcnf carbs going in a heavy 1973 Std Beetle.
BERGs were out of 82mm cranks. Next shipment coming from Europe and the Swedish foundaries was 6 months to a year.
Changed to a 2165cc, Gene said no. He would not sell me that combo because it would not last 100k miles. Over heating , rod angles etc. I had 3 more phone conversations with Gene. He finally agreed to sell to me. With much disfavored comments.
Well I drove that car for 4 years and 65,000 miles without an issue. Raced at many of the VW races in the east and had the pleasure of Gene Berg watching me run in ST Pete Florida in the mid 90's. Ran a best of 8.14 in the 1/8th mile on that combo. Gene shaking his head.
Love the Berg Breather. Clyde made a set of heads that ended up putting me at 7.54 in the 1/8 mile. 12.20 in the 1/4 mile.
Yep, that sounds like Gene! I moved to SoCal in August of 89, and was a regular there buying parts piecemeal for years! Never was a call-in, always a counter sale. I'd come in asking a question, and if Tim couldn't answer it, Gene always could. It was always "you're the guy up in LaHabra, right?"
I really respected Gene's stand on customer support and refusing to do phone support unless you had an invoice number. Saving his knowledge for HIS customers.
In fact, his insistence on reading his tech articles FIRST before calling predates the internet Forum Warning "SEARCH AND READ THE FAQ's BEFORE POSTING!" Gene only had so much time, and didn't want to waste it. The more time you wasted because you didn't read the articles, was time stolen from someone who did! I really respected that. And it's one of the reasons Berg's little Sgop is still around while countless other rip off artists surrounding his Mecca have come and gone!
I kinda figured if you had a Berg-Built, you read the articles! It's 100% applicable in this instance.
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From the Jungles of Borneo, East of Java, Southwest of Zamboanga...in the lands of the Dayak, I send my thanks to you all...
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How long ago did you purchase the car?
It may be simply a matter of Re-Liening the car in your name.
Ritter Lien Sales charged $50 for the proper service back in the day.
You can PM me and give me more details, what paperwork did you get? Ritter makes a complete package that I have used countless times in SoCal to transfer ownership. I know I've suggested using them to others on the board and they have done it successfully as well.
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The 1973 Z had a sealed tank system with Crankcase Accumulation of Evaporative Emissions, using bimetallic vacuum switches in the air cleaner and a diverter valve on the left inner fenderwell to determine where the tank vent/vacuum relief would be sourced.
If you want to forego that setup you can retrofit something like a Geo Metro EVAP Canister. It's relatively simple vacuum routing that you can adapt to your current air cleaner setup.
Long and short of it, taking those hoses off and running an open system invites you dumping all sorts of hot fuel vapors all over your garage after shutdown.
The system needs to do a few things: Vent the vapors to a containment area (crankcase or charcoal canister) after hot shut down, and allow air into the tank when running down the road and sucking fuel out with a sealed gas cap.
Most EVAP canisters have the diverter valve built into them, with simple routing molded into the caps: "TANK" "DIST""FILTER"
From your SEALED system in back (take out the looped line and filter, put it back where it was) run the EVAP "TANK" vacuum line to the EVAP Line on the left inner fender that used to have the diverter valve on it. Run "FILTER" to the air cleaner--or re-use your little filter from out back up front on the Charcoal Canister--that is where it will suck air IN when you;re driving down the road. The DIST is to an engine vacuum source... that will purge the canister after startup and while running regenerate the adsorbant charcoal by flowing clean air over it from the little gauze filter on the bottom.
That should do it.
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Might I suggest the proper engineering term: "CORE PLUG"?
Or how about a regionalisation term: "Welch Plug"?
"Freeze Plug" is a shadetree term wrought from someone observing when their block was filled with water, they popped out (sometimes) and since the block wasn't damaged well, boy howdy, "them engineers are mighty clever, put in 'freeze plugs' to save the block if it freezed!"
Uh, no, they're there to hold casting cores on jacketed castings. Before anybody argues the point, if they are truly 'freeze plugs' please explain why they are in the intake manifold of the EFI Z at the end? At the Balance Tube on the SU Cars at each end? Do we plan to somehow run Liquid Air in the Intake and Risk Freezing and therefore need pressure relief???
Now, to the idea of PCV: vacuum in the crankcase promotes ring sealing and cuts down on nuisance oil leaks, removes combustion byproducts lengthening the life of the oil by preventing acidification, and generally does good things all around. If you run a vac-u-pan off a plugged breather, and suck hard on the valve cover, you CAN get a nice vacuum in the crankcase at WOT Conditions and help with performance. That MAY be why he plugged it. If you think just venting the valve cover to a filter, or even a breather box is sufficient...I'd say no. I'd install some sort of vacuum device, even if it was a restrictive orifice with a check valve in the manifold to draw out the blowby in the crankcase, and try your best to run negative pressure in there if at all possible.
I run the Berg Breather on my 62 Microbus. If you read Gene's Technical Article on why that breather is necessary for a Big Bore VW, it's right spot on for a High Performance L-Series as well. Good sound engineering principles don't change.
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He's driving it, and doesn't have time now to cruise the Interwebs.
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Ron is busy like you wouldn't believe. There's a reason they say to call him after 14:00 PST. From then on....he's on the phone. EVERY day. It's unreal. The only time I've NOT seen him on the phone is when you set up a personal appointment which invariably come after 14:00 as well. He's running the business from arriving to 14:00, and on the phone doing technical and engineering from 14:00 onwards. It's about an hour's drive from the house.
Web-Cam, on the other hand, is about 10 minutes from my house in Riverside, and when I was commuting to the office I literally passed within 100 yards of their place coming and going.
I might suggest looking for racers or Honda guys selling old used cams, and just stick them in the profilers. I saw the results from those Racer Brown cams profiled in UK and was really impressed with that profiler technology. Ultimately buying a used one and profiling it would give one of two things: A good starting point, or a check against what Ron Engineers with his slide rule and drafting board.
If nothing else, once you have the rough dimensions, giving those dimensions to Web-Cam for an acceptability check may give future purchasers two places to choose from to get their profiles done. If Web Cam needs something finer, check to see if Ron can work with those numbers as well. That gives a machining spec...and not to be too turfing about it...but if someone wants to make their own billet cores to send out let them have at it! Like a Megasquirt, "the head is the hard part, you make the rest"---you then have two sources for grinding. Maybe more.
And that can't be a bad thing.
Now there is a marketing slogan if I ever heard it: "Datsunworks DOHC L-Head: the head is the hard part, you provide the rest!"
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"1975 Z"
A Euro Spec 1975 260Z did not have one.
A US Spec 1975 260Z did not have one (Yes, they do exist...regardless of the 'one year' paradigm.)
A 1975 JDM Fairlady Z did not have one.
An EARLY 280Z had them. That being a 1975 280Z.
Not every 1975 Z is a 1975 280Z. In fact, there were a lot of 1975 260Z's out there (the entire world's production outside North America, in fact) that did not have EFI. In fact, JDM cars did not get it until their 1976 production run, and never had the little light.
Expanded enough?
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Wasn't someone in NorCal doing them for $150 each plus shipping?
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Amazing how some of that Emissions Crap makes day-to-day living with the car nice, huh?
If you can find a cannister from a Geo Metro, they're smaller with better activated charcoal, and work bitchen in an S30's fuel system. Mine is outside in the wheel well where rocks and stuff thrown off the wheel and abuse it. Hasn't broken yet. Figure if it does, it's a cheap piece of emissions crap that can be replaced easily enough...
Not that my S30 has OBDII to let me know the U-Haul Guys punctured my vapor canister with the 3/4" drill installing my Class III Hitch...but I look under there from time to time to make sure nothing big has whanged it and caused some sort of issue.
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Oh yeah, and point them in the direction of this thread for sure...
He logged on with photos...if I were you I'd screen shot and save these photos of the thread for use as evidence of his duplicity.
It was clearly not a 240Z, and VIN Swapping is a federal offense, compounded by him selling across state lines...
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Figures, he was an F.I.B.
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I would call the police, and get a lawyer.
The gent was aware the car was not a 1970Z, he fraudulently misrepresented it, and that can be any number of things.
I don't know what this supposed "Lawyer" told you...but he is likely only getting a BS story of the guy telling him what he wants him to know.
No two ways about it, this guy sold a VIN-Swapped Car. He was told what was up, then misrepresented it.
He needs to fry. If you lose the car, you get the judgement for the $$$, and make his life purgatory. Or hell. Personally, I would make him live in hell over this.
Then go out and get another car with your recovered money. Kill the car. Crush it. Make it go away.
People without ethics should be flayed...
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Tellin' ya Derek, we gotta post our CV's so budding Engineers have a roadmap to obscure and arcane head construction! LOL
I gotta ask about the roughing if the lobes. It wasn't uncommon to give full round Nissan Billets to cam grinders to have cams ground. And the blanks from CWC are full round. Is the effort of roughing the lobes resulting in a radically decreased grinding cost or ???
Seems if you got the indexing slot cut...that's all you need for them to go further on with the lobes. I assume your journals and any thrust faces are already finished and will simply undergo micropolishing once returned, or will Ron completely finish that aspect as well?
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^^^^"Depending on Market"^^^^
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Early 280Z's had that until the light was incorporated into the fuel gauge.
It's driven by the capacitance sensor on the fuel level sender. Lights up to warn of low fuel so you don't run the pump dry.
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You will fry the stock wiring at 130W. You can handle maybe 100W but with the cheap relay harnesses produced by Dave Irwin there's really no reason to use the crappy stock wiring for anything more than switching the relays. Fuse Dave's setup appropriately, knock the stock lamp fuses down to 2.5 or at most 5A for the relay coils and get WAY brighter lights with even sealed beams.
The stock wiring has too much voltage drop through a switched ground. Get Dave's relays even for stock wattage and be amazed. Then you can upgrade to flamethrower so any time you like.
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Next "vapor lock cure" post I see, NEXT one, I swear.....
That photo gets posted!
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Just have the head welded when you have it ported. Then make the combustion chamber you want.
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Out in the countryside, in an unassuming Dutch Pig Barn...
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You did mention closing up the runners...Devcon aluminum putty is machinable and allows you to raise the floor of the port so in effect you get the same effect of porting for a better short-side radius... You can take that raised port floor into account when you make your manifold as well...
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Timer fan is on at 215.
160 thermostat drops the temp of everything ipunderhood...
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^^^^YES!^^^^
He's got info on small runner small port heads.
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Then likely you saw my car running around if you got anywhere near 400MMS area, Roger had the headlights glassed over, and pop up headlights in the hood, Porsche 930-Style Flares, dark blue car. It went away to Nellis and he brought it back on a subsequent assignment. I bought it after he had it stored for years out by my place in Morgan Mannor. He originally sold it in-squadron but the guy that bought it couldn't get it running using an EFI Pump into triple Mikunis with four year old typhoon water contaminated gas...his plan was to get it running for his transfer to the PI... I ended up buying it, then selling triples, exhaust, and engine off it for a net cost of $400 profit!
The guy that bought it was none to happy following from Kadena to Torii Auto Hobby about a half hour behind me just about in time to see me fiddle 5-6 minutes and have it running perfectly. Engine went to a guy we called BunnyMan in Chute Shop I think.... He had the head and cam redone at RS Okinawa, as the slugs were hand built by Clyde Tomoyose at his place in Naha. 2mm pop over deck. With the head reworked and the RS Okinawa cam, BunnyMan's 2/2 Fairlady was wicked...
Never actually met Roger, talked to him a lot on the phone trying to get the car registered in the USA, and then again dealing with CA Smog & BAR Referee...
Clyde was the guy who told me where the bodywork was done. And Roger confirmed it...hence my hanging around for bits and bobs. And it's how I ran across the OSG Car.
I digress...
L28 4bbl EFI build - help/input wanted!
in Nissan L6 Forum
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"the fact that I'm enjoying it so much has been+ slowing my enthusiasm to put the turbo on."
Oh, you are SO going to kick yourself in the ass for using that as an excuse once you get the boost on...