Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Link was removed, but apparently it's popular enough to that YouTube has a search hit on this one:
They were within 5 miles of my place, and I could have done such a better deal than what they had!
-
I walked into Odaiba during an oldtimers swap meet and there was a complete HALTEC setup with 50mm ITB's one of those Kameari Distributors, an MSD7 all wiring, fuel pumps set up for an S30...everything you needed for a big HP Setup... $2,000 asking price complete.
I was severely chastised by someone for not making a phone call and waking them up in Wisconsin upon finding it!
I did manage to buy 6 sets of Late Model S30 JDM Tail Lights for $30 a pair that day.
Yeah, if you're there, the prices are better. -
I think someone "on another forum" suggested that check as well....
-
I agree that the point used was a terrible one!
Intercooler piping is much more preferable.
The reason you were getting the temp spikes was 'heat soak'--you started reading ambient manifold temperature and not really air temperature. Putting it in the plenum portion, or intercooler pipes would have less of this effect.I put mine in the T/B Adapter right behind the throttle plate shaft so it doesn't interfere with anything airflow-wise!
-
Isn't there a guy in Kansas already doing this in the Vendor's Forum. Cheap, too! At least the plastic pieces.
You might consider teaming with him and not reinventing the wheel, concentrate on the trim rings. -
Don't go larger than the stock American 0.63 Hotside A/R... in Europe they were 0.82 A/R, and were rated at 200BHP anyway.
If you want torque, I'd suggest the stock turbo, but find the 0.48 A/R hot side, it will give you full boost by 1,700 rpms and perform identically at 10-12 psi of boost generating great torque at off-idle speeds. Everybody who rode/drove my car with that setup commented that the car felt more supercharged than turbocharged because the boost came on almost instantly.
Passing people at 120kph was fifth gear affair even running a 3.36 rear gear! When I went back to an N/A in that car...it was like "WHERE THE HELL DID ALL MY TORQUE GO???" -
I knew of ONE guy who ran 36PHH's on his Fairlady Z. It's the only set I've ever seen.
They will work, and probably give decent economy like 40's do on an L24 compared to a set of 44's. (I got 28+ mpg driving 40's on an L24 from LA to Phoenix!)
It's the WOT where they will fall short.
IF you are running a stock cam, remember the L28 tops out around 5300 rpms, with 6,500 only a realistic shift point in first gear, and maybe second. Third (and maybe second) benefit from short shifting to a great extent.
Inlet ports can be done up with Devcon Machinable Epoxy (*Aluminum) you can basically do the whole intake port, it won't get appreciably above 220 - 250 F at most. You would do well to raise the Port Floor to give a more favourable short-side radius and by making the port smaller increase velocity to give the 30's the best chance for mixing a homgenous intake charge and getting it swirling into the combustion chamber.
There is a nice writeup by the C230 Deviant Aussies on 'small port L28' using the 30mm runner L20A head on the larger engine to see what would happen. It was a pretty good experiment... Damn I'm drawing a blank on Mark Amrovic's Screen Name though... It was a really torquey engine as I recall reading...which is good. -
At least you got a really high-resolution partial throttle map done! That will pay in your drivability. Inadvertently, the blocked throttle made you tune the most used portion of the throttle range extensively...long term, that will pay off as you seem to be seeing now. Which is great!
-
Well that's definitely good news!
We all forget to check the basics.
On my setup it's a throttle cable and not the linkage. I had to adjust the throttle pedal down considerably to prevent it from over-pulling on the throttle quadrant. Upside was the pedal was right at brake pedal height afterwards.
If that TB has a throttle quadrant, make sure it's rotated for full throttle, and then set up your 0% by either adjusting the pedal height or cable jacket length. I just put a different TB on my Suzuki Turbo and had to add a bracket about 1" longer to get what looked identical quadrant on the newer TB to open fully with my existing cable and throttle pedal setup. Quadrants usually are set to be tangential at WOT. Usually the pedal throw on the S30 pedal is more than enough to get that pull straight off the top of the pedal, taking it off a bellcrank really reduces the amount of pull you get.Mechanical Linkages are another thing entirely, and usually require one of the bellcranks being lengthened for more stroke, but sometimes you can simply shorten the pullrod on the top of the pedal to the first bellcrank to lift the pedal up off the floor more and give you more stroke.
-
Derek, you, me and JeffP should hang our CV's out so budding young engineers can follow in our footsteps matriculating at our respective alma-maters...
Nice to see that valve sitting in there nice and snug.
The bosses around the valve guides just look like they need to be slightly less deep...I doubt they will materially affect flow in any way, but the support for the valve guides and heat transfer they provide will have benefits... You're going from the cam side of the head on machining the holes right? So it's not like you have to fight the bump to keep,the drill centered. I was never much of an exposed or completely cut off valve guide kinda guy. The flow possible here in current layout will far exceed what most will ever use!
Got a note from a bud in Okinawa. Seems the white OSG Car I took photos of in 1988 STILL EXISTS and unknown to me was a friend of HIS... He was 20' away from it yesterday. Why did this come up? Well, he has the head from the car and is starting his OSG Build... Mentioned watching the progress of this head buildup and may be interested as his build of the OSG will be "heritage", for others to see and appreciate...but since he has access to that original white S30, mentioned that "it would be great to get one of those heads so we can actually race the thing without worry that I'm breaking the only one on the island!" Apparently one of those original B1 heads was scrapped by the owner after the car "expired" so the number of Extant B-1 Examples declines even more.
To think of the possibilities of an originally-powered OSG S30 might one day be again be resurrected to its former glory by running around powered by an L-Powered Datsunworks Head-Topped mill makes me smile!
-
Anybody wanna buy my junk? Clear out the hoarde lock stock and barrel. Make me an offer sight unseen. What's 30+ Condition-7 Z-Cars worth?
-
Considering the head to manifold juncture is Nominally 35mm...how will you work that taper? Just a big anti-reversionary Notch?
The L20A heads have a 30mm Head-Manifold juncture, though. Those 30mms might work well on those.
Saying something is overkill depends on your power goals. A 44 PHH Mikuni with 32mm or 34mm chokes will work well on the street and make decent power, but more is to be had higher in the rev range with 36/38mm chokes. Then you switch to 45ITB's with no restrictions and pick up more (or go with 50 or 55mm Carbs with 45mm chokes...)
30 mm is very small for an L28, you can feel the engine "flatten out" when using 40PHH versus 44PHH on a stock L28.Remember, the Nissan Designed, tested and proven combination of 40PHH's for 165 Production HP in the never-produced but exhaustively tested "240Z Sports Package" was only 2.4 Liters...
-
Nobody used sch40. At most sch5... But that is NOT what the Trust headers are, they are not a weld-el fabrication. They are drawn mandrel tubing in stainless.
I love people who,think they can make an L6 manifold for $1,000.... Last group that did a tube header had a pile of crap that cost $1,500 and which didn't work.
If it were as easy as all that, people would be doing it. They're not.
-
He answered you question.
It's a gating pulse. +5V goes to the gate, the photo cel,gates a pulse that sends +5V back to the ECU.
They don't "ground through the distributor", like points, they are gated in the CAS for a signal back to,the ECU.
-
As my old Rupp 600 Magnum had prominently stickered on the cowling:
"Carburettors equipped for Methanol, Change Diaphragms after each Racing Day"
Gotta love anything that does 0-60mph in under 3 seconds on glare ice...
There is just no way to be Politically Correct with any of the old Rupp Triples, it gives Prius Owners Infarctions...
https://youtu.be/v5xYFVldpx4Oh, and for the record... that's what the red sticker on the cowl says on the right side...
https://youtu.be/YEYOKT14stwMan, I miss that old beast, breaking two of my fingers or not!
-
Yeah, that's a forged Venolia Slug, and the CR is probably a bit higher than 10:1... Probably closer to 13.5-14:1 given the shape of the dome it was used in closed-chamber welded heads....like a welded E88, N42 or early E31---L's take Compression.
-
How high do you intend to rev? Is it Turbocharged or N/A?
Cast Pistons handle 6,500-7,00 just fine.The Power in an L-Series has always been in the HEAD, and porting a turbo engine, camming it properly to peak at 6,500 with a 7,000 shift point with the proper turbo will have you in the 500HP range on cast L28ET pistons, under 20psi.
With 300 HP at the rear wheels as a goal, a bone stock L28ET can do that will simple boost. Having a mildly ported head and proper cam that gives you another 1,000 rpms of power (from 5,500 to 6,500 rpms) which is still 300,000 miles reliable -- if you don't detonate. It will happen at a significantly lower boost pressure and that means detonation, spark blowout, etc. are all minimised compared to a "Bell Boost It" type of build making the exact same HP at higher pressures. Do it right, and this is a 10 to 12 psi proposition max... almost non-intercooled territory. In fact, I've seen 380 ftlbs of torque at 4,500 and 8 psi on one build...definitely non-intercooled territory!
This level of power is nothing extraordinary. No need for floating pins, forged pistons, metal head gaskets.As Sleeper Says: what you DO need is proper fuel and spark control "Good Engine Management".... Without it, even the best Carillo Rods, MLS Head Gaskets, and JE Forged Pistons are turned to scrap metal with one good detonation incident (*That You NEVER EVEN HEARD*) --- and the costs are exponentially higher to start over!
-
And let me put it this way: I can put the stock L28 EFI on just about any 240Z in a weekend and having it running and driving. If I had a car that was running and driving on the carbs just fine, I would stick with them rather than adding EFI. Last thing I want to do on a cross country trip is refit carbs to make it the rest of the way home. I'd just as soon go with what is working well and then play with it on the other end.
Heck, I can put Datsun 75-78 EFI on most Corvairs in a weekend.... I've been doing that conversion since 1979! I MIGHT go with THAT conversion, because Rochesters on air cooled heads are NOT SU's on an L-Series! -
If it did all that driving, put all your EFI Crap in the hatch and put it on when you get to the other end of the country and have all winter in the garage to work on it.
I would spend time re-checking mechanical security of things and getting them right in the month before the trip, like brake pads and shoes, ball joints, bushings, investigating the third gear synchro that will have you holding it in gear until it's time to be in fourth... etc.
If it ran that far, I wouldn't dick with it at all until you are done driving to the other side of the country. You're just asking for trouble IMO.
-
1
-
-
By doing that you are advancing or retarding 60 degrees from wherever it was...
-
"This is going to be a monster head, 12:1 CR, seeing 9k rpm. Big ports, big lift."
HAHAHA! Add 2.75 to that CR... The RPMs are good.
-
I would HIGHLY recommend AGAINST the conversion before your trip.
Get to where you're going and then get some Patton Machine SU Adapters and a Megasquirt and go from there.
Drive it across the US with the Carbs. I have done this trip three times and never had a problem with Carbs keeping it below 85 in the desert on long uphill grades.
You also forgot the Surge Tank and booster pump for the unbaffled tank with no swirl pot.
If the car runs and drives now, take it on some one and two hour one-way highway trips during the day to shake it down.
If it makes it doing that in the heat of the day, you will be fine crossing the country with it. A tank of gas only lasts about 2 hours anyway. . . I refilled every 240 or 280 miles with about 10-12 gallons each time at speeds around 75-80 the entire way.
-
The 3750 and WOT (30%+ throttle opening) indicates a point AFTER the O2 sensor and AFM have stopped being trim mechanisms in the fueling of the engine.
-
Pick a spot, drive and find. Ship.
Coordinating with local ZClub or looking for online advertisements for import car shows to coordinate arrival in a specific region gets a lot of high quality hands in checks possible on a weekend with follow up and shipping of the prospects during the week.
Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
OSG = OS Giken.
No, you can't read about the car I am referring about. While I did have access to the Internet in 1988, it was on a green monochrome Wyse Monitor that was solely text-based. Not really a vehicle for posting photos at that time. Any images exist solely in the firm of Fujichrome 100 C41 Process negatives and photographic prints in my album back in the states.
This car was at Body Shop AY outside Kadena AFB Gate Four where my S30 had its body done in 1981 (when owned by Roger Puffer.)
I took several,photos while stopping through for this or that. First the car possessed a 3.3L SOHC and later the OSG headed mill. It was when the OSG engine was in it that I got a ride. At the time I had no idea it was something like one-of-twelve in existence.
My friend there bought the head some time ago...but I didn't realize it was from that car until our recent exchange. Kind of happy to hear the car is still around. One day I'll get back to shoot / scan the photos of the visits.