Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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"and with the internet nearly everything is at your fingertips should you choose to search for it!"
And, therein lies the rub...
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You know, just a thought... you could route the exhaust dump into the cabin behind the seats.
It would probably make the car really, really quiet outside. You just wear helmet and plugs inside...
And you're getting sleepy....
Sleeeeeepy....
Probably works better on BMW, MB and VW's thoug
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Generally a log manifold for balancing is used, 1/2 inside diameter. Fuel Rail stock works nicely. Take the MAP sensing off one end.
There is no reason MAF could not be used if the air filter box was properly set up and metered on the inlet.
The RB26DETT used ITB's in a plenum surge tank arrangement.
Two of those bodies on an SU Manifold has been done. Check Petes thread about it.
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Hey... it's a stereotype on the internet. It can not be helped if you have Ethiopian Genes.
I haven't been 170# since I was in the USAF Olympic Training Program... And I had to cut 20# off then that I gained in Basic Training and Tech School because the regimen was so laid-back.
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I'm with JC -- I have bagged my second tow vehicle. For the reasons mentioned above it made sense. Adjustable spring rate, and adjustable height.
I was VERY hesitant to use bags, until I bought that first dually with the Firestone bag kit that was almost 25 years old. Original bags. Fittings and tubing leaked, but the bags themselves were perfect! That met my longevity question. Researching more, the big semis have done things with them for years, which convert to smaller vehicles really well.
They are just a spring in a different format.
I am currently talking with someone who makes those "Air Ride" kits for the pickup trucks that basically put a subframe under the back of the truck and eliminate leaf springs. I am developing a kit for my two Jeepneys in the Philippines. The ability to raise and lower the ride height based on road condition is advantageous, and the ability to jack up spring rate when overloaded is also similarly desirable.
For a smaller car like the Z, it's just a matter of getting the application designed properly and you have another viable spring option outside coil springs.
I was NEVER a bag-believer until I got that first Dually. Crank in 120psi into those bags, and put 2.5 TONS in the bed....didn't change the ride height 1/4 inch (my son sat there with a tape measure because he was curious...)
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And all the while, second-hand set of SK ITB's ($800) and Brand New Intake Manifold ($500) languish in the classifieds here...
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You can do that conversion using the Ford switch. If you can find one from a Tempo-Topaz, they literally have close to 3' of heavy gauge wiring to salvage out of the harness. It's a direct disconnect inline to the power to the pump--it's that heavy a contact set. But it would work famously in the control circuit of the relay as well.
They are also found in the passenger footwell of Ford Rangers near the trans tunnel under the floor mat.
These are the same switches sold by Pegasus Racing. I have run my 240 with the salvaged wires out of a trunk-mounted Topaz from fuse box to fuel pump using the salvaged Ford Wiring, and mounting the switch on the vertical surface parcel shelf near the trans tunnel, with the wiring using the 280Z Grommet exiting almost exactly where the stock 280Z Fuel Pump Wiring exits. I can jusssst reset it from the drivers seat while harnessed, if necessary. With the standard 3-Point belts it's easily reset.
We would play 'bumper cars' with rental Topaz's and Escorts...a good bump from the back end on those trunk mounted switches and the switch will trip and require resetting. Great way to freak out the new service guy with the company making him immobile and driving off from some distant airport and no clue how to get to the job site other than "follow us!" BUMP hehehehehehe....
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OH, and one-more-thing.... As stated any flow bench number is a relative change. You baseline it then compare for flow improvements against that baseline. Like dynoes one is not standard against another unless strict criteria are specified and standardised. In this area, there is 'conventional thinking'...
Remember conventional thinking. The standard for decades has been to use the bore-sized liner you run in your engine for testing flows. This stems from old OHV designs and is absolutely critical on them and the Nissan SOHC the valve opens along the bore wall and shrouds the port somewhat. Hemis? Nah. Ever wonder why those old 'twisted wedge' combustion chambers had those funky valves that pushed the valves to open towards the center of the chamber?
On a Pent-Roof Canted Valve engine like this... and on those twisted funky-valve-angle dinosaur heads bore size during flow testing really is a moot point. You could jigger the head about...but because the valves open to the CENTER of the cylinder and not along a bore wall the effect of shrouding is pretty much eliminated. But in an effort to stave off criticism on internet boards, following "standard flowbench practices" in the setup validates the test in a lot of peoples eyes. Doing it, whether it impacts the test results or not, is simply a way to keep the superfluous chatter down now that this is occurring in the open domain. A lot of this same discussion was done offline before these numbers were posted, 'we sniped at our own results' before posting them so as to silence detractors who are not making their own head....but who might be more than willing to cast stones at the efforts of those doing so.
Fat Old White Dudes. . . you know?
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All this being said.... that same 220 cfm intake port was used on our L20A to do SOHC Valve Train Stability testing. We ran that engine to 12,500 rpms+ on the dyno seeing what power did and if we got valvetrain instability.
The first person that hears and L-Series running open exhausts at 12,500 rpms will remember that sound. There is a point where it changes from individual exhaust pulses and exhaust, and starts sounding like the wail of an F1 Engine Warble. To paraphrase Clint Eastwood in "Heartbreak Ridge" : This is the Nissan L-Series, and makes a distinctive sound.
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Really, the important thing is that there are SO MANY options now available for K20 CNC Ports.
I'm sure the possibility exists that the port could be hand-massaged to increase the flow, but with 310 or about that on the intake side (bare) getting the exhaust to flow 75% of the intake (232 cfm) should be a matter of talking to the CNC guy and saying "give me your 230cfm exhaust port"...
Then some casting changes and out of the box you are flowing 270 intake 200 exhaust and have the proper balance right out the gate. Nothing big the end-user must do, other than casting cleanup. This is how you keep costs down: sweat equity by the buyer. If you want to just bolt it on and run it, it's balanced. If you port it you get incremental gains.
If you wanna go hog-wild you still can.
JUST REMEMBER THERE IS ONLY SO MUCH FLOW AN L30 OR L28 CAN USE! For a TURBO application these numbers represent staggering possibilities. For an NA L-Series though, especially a small one like under 3.0 Liters, you are going to have to understand you WILL need to twist the engine to 8,500 - 9,000 to get maximum horsepower. Our Bonneville car had 220 cfm in the intake port and with 45mm ITBs was 320+ to the rear wheels just over 8,200 rpms. This setup will be FAR more tractable, and with 52-54 mm ITB's should be very like an OS in the respect that you could lumber along in fifth gear at 1,500~2,000 and mat it for a pull that just gets stronger as the RPM's rise to 9K!
The Non-Crossflow head will perform well to a point. But on larger engines, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4 Liters...it really restricts the power you can ultimately get from them as they can't pass the air to make the power.
The exciting aspect is that the ports are as-cast about at the limit of what you can use flow-wise on a 2.8 or 3.0 if you are comfortable twisting it to 8,500~9,000. Put a proper ATI dampner on it, have Velasco's do a crank up right and you will have a fun car. I would HIGHLY recommend a 3.9 ~4.38, even a 4.62 R200 gearset out back (with the differential cooler) to have some REAL fun with the car and this head.
Turbo guys... they will need new shorts if they understand what these flow numbers mean.
One porting job and exhaust port design change to get port balance correct "out of the box" and other than maybe thickening the port walls for guys who insist on hogging stuff out... I think the port configuration is set and done.
For a first try, I'd say it's darned good! VERY darned good!
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I lament my 90 Dually isn't newer so I could use TunerCat through the OBD interface.
The new powertrains are great, and the computers are hackable to allow you to tailor things the way YOU want them....
AND, as VW has recently showed us, with a few quick keystrokes everything is back in line for "The Man" and his "Central Scrutinizing Process"...
My bud did a swap of a 94 Camaro into a 74 Camaro. Man, sweet! That TunerCat Studio is like a standalone. Turn off this, turn off that, reprogram for differential gearing... And everything works together like a newer car!
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Yes, the exhaust port 'could' use some work, the as-cast cleaned intake is flowing within 10cfm of a 4 hour port job on an OS Giken head.
Those numbers outflow most max ported SOHC heads by a good margin. Most you will likely get is around 230cfm intake, possibly more.
The important thing is that the barrel tested was 89mm, and not something like 4", which would skew the low-lift numbers artificially low, and boost top end numbers by potentially 40-50cfm!
Overall, this is very good port performance and about as big as you really can go on the intake side with a 2.8 or 3.0 Liter engine. The peak power will be up there...in terms of gross output, and rpms!
You won't get these numbers out of a non-crossflow head.
And I don't see any reason to get uncivil since the 28", bore size, clayed radius, exhaust stub stuff is all stated for replication.
More importantly, it gives a baseline for improvements from any porting done.
I would only add that it would have been nice to quantify intake manifold loss, and what the intake port flowed with the intended ITB on it at WOT.
On Peter's OSG project, that added up.One thing to note for all the benchracers out there, that turbo stock intake flows 190 CFM thereabouts. So for a P90 that's a darned good match of components! The engineers DO know what they are doing sometimes. Thinking you will change the world swapping from one component to another is really misguided, it's a system--if you don't look at ALL the components, changing one will likely just screw up a well-balanced setup right from the factory!
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So you want to forego the stock Fuel Pump wiring as the signal (I assume you have not used the fuel pump modulator and this pump is either on or off, full speed)...
You want to substitute straight Ign 12V for the relay signal.
What if you run headlong into a tree, are knocked unconcious and a fuel line breaks? How does the pump shut off?
The stock pump will. Using the stock wiring to trigger the relay retains the accident shutoff function for the fuel pump.
If you wire it straight, use a Ford Inertia Switch to kill the pump should you get hit, hit something, or roll over.
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Indeed, in this case the FSM is the bible, my son.
You disregard it, reveal the inevitable outcome!
Deuteronomy 10:16 -
"I am not sure where the timing mark should be on these engines if completely stock."
There's this other book I prefer much better than the bible. It's called the FSM, and there is a chapter and verse that covers that very situation.
When people say they reference the pulley mark for anything, and complain how it's running.....Pointing out the fact that the rubber degrades and that pulley slips is something you don't think you would have to do either. But if you had checked TDC with a piston stop, you would know the TDC mark was correct, and using a dial advance timing light set to FSM Idle Advance Setting, use your known good TDC Mark to verify your timing was indeed correct.
Proverbs 12:24 -
No, the HINT (do I clomp my foot) is unclear STILL.
The Obtaining of TDC NEVER involves the use of "the mark on the pulley"
So, if you have INDEED verified TDC using (AS YOU HAVE STATED) "the mark on the pulley" and not PROPERLYused a good TDC Reference point such as piston stop (not just "rabbit ears and the pulley") then INDEED you may be 30 degrees OR MORE off....
And everybody here knows the outer timing marks on an L28 Crank Pulley NEVER twist, shift, or move!
And THAT is why I keep referring to John Coffey's post.
The issue here is the inability to comunicate exactly what was done at first go, the procedure and methodology used to give the arrived at numbers.
It has been my experience when these details are glossed over, it results in repetition of work. Assuming competence is a fatal flaw these days, assuming someone actually DID 'do it exactly like the book says' in the face of comments otherwise is simply foolish.
UNTIL IT'S SAID, YOU CAN ONLY ASSUME.
indeed, you have again come back with another answer that said nothing other than confirmed that you likely haven't properly determined the TDC on the engine. At least by your own words. And those are all we have to go by.... If others assume you did it right, well, good for them. I get paid not to believe guys when they say 'the did everything just like the book says' and in my 31 years of experience...they lied. Not telling the truth in that particular instance either through ignorance or blatany misdirection is the rule, not the exception.
If we're quoting the bible...I like
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I suggest you start over. Put cylinder #1 exactly at TDC and go from there.
^^YES,YES,YES!^^
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Listen to John Coffey, PLEASE!
Line it up at TDC and START THERE.
Your constant shortcutting wastes everybody's time.
Try listening to what you're being told for ONCE!
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And now someone said the name... and like "Candyman" that tune is ignited in my head and will play over and over for the rest of the day.
Well, that and the theme from "Battlestar Galactica" they just fade in and out randomly at similar points...
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Nobody says side pipes need to be under the rocker panels. they fit under the driveshaft just fine and with a turn-down diffuse noise off the track surface as well.
I run a truck glasspack that is 4" OD and almost 36" long right under the driveshaft, and it goes to the muffler out back. It's very quiet and no significant dyno impact compared to the 3" pipe I had back there before straight.
Putting the can on the back has a noticeable effect, but I could go with something less restrictive I'm sure.It's quieter than stock with both mufflers in place.
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So is this what passes for Steve McQueen and James Garner these days?
Not ready to join that new scene just yet until something hits closer to the mark of those two former Hollywood "Car Guys"!
"Pulling a Han" in the school parking lot just doesn't have the same ring...ya know?
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At least you don't need a spotter to sit on a crate head poked out the remover rear window to read dome position/needle stations whilst driving to get needle taper cut points...
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Hint:
The dirty secret does not only apply to turbo engines!
"Hardened 3mm Pin" ring anybody's bell yet?
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Use of EFI pump on Carburetted Applications.
The stock L28ET pump will not supply much power to an EFI'd car, you run 20# of boost and you're within 6# of bypass in the internal relief and dropped it's flow quite a bit.
But that same pump running at 20psi in a carburetted blowthrough setup will only be running maybe 24~25psi and nowhere NEAR curtailed flow, or the internal relief valve. I ran 350HP + on a carb blow through using a single N/A EFI Pump with a 3psi booster for the swirl pot (basically 3.5 psi inlet head to the EFI Pump.)
Was that way from 1985 to the mid/late 90's. Tens of thousands of miles driven. Personal Best was 4.5 mpg, worst was daily commuting at 17.5 mpg...
Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
TH400's are available for drag car applications. And I know of a turd-brown 79 280ZX Standard that just CRIES for a Ford 9" live axle conversion and a 30psi Datsun Werkes Head to make a couple of passes at Pomona...