Tony D

How long have I owned a Z? Since 1985? D'OH! My work colleague is already receiving 'settlement money' from his time aboard ships with asbestos lagging on the pipes. I guess military service doesn't count. Or all those acoustic tiles we used to chuck our pencils into in elementary school! Or those years working the brake arcing machine at the GM Dealership...hey I was underage, it doesn't count! And now...working regularly in China? Oh yeah, there's NO asbestos in THOSE plants!

That is actually the vapor line to the diverter valve on the left inner fender of the car. If pressure builds in the tank, it is vented to the diverter valve and then either to the crankcase, or to the air cleaner. This is all automatic, and when the car is off, the 'crankcase' is your catch tank---when running, depending on pressure in the fuel tank, it either lets air in from the air cleaner, or diverts it to crankcase accumulation. It's already a closed system if all your hoses are intact. No worries -- except those hoses without leaks!

Get oil pressure, fire it off, then put the Superflow into "Break-In" load-cycling mode and run it on the dyno for about 2 hours. Install and beat the hell out of it as you see fit after readjusting valves and oil/filter change. Or drive it around as above... I'm impatient!

There are limiters and dampers available as well. If you look on an LD28 Right Side motor mount you will see an OEM L-Series Damper / Limiter in action!

I (cough) got a couple of yards (cough) of as (cough) bestos laying around (cough) this place somewhere (cough) come on down (cough) and maybe I can dig it out (cough) blow the dust off of it (cough) and give you a couple of pieces! (cough) My die grinder with a cutting disc (cough) works wonders on it (cough) makes a nice (cough) clean (cough) cut (cough, hack!) but raises a bit of (cough, wheeze, hack hack hack!) dust in the process...

There are dimensions for this somewhere...I saw it. I think I used a Letter "O" drill... Then something like a 16th fractional for the injector seat. I made the same sort of clamped connectors inside a carburettor float bowl for 'hidden injection' some time ago. I may have had to use that "O" drill to enlarge the stock EFI injector recesses to accept standard O-Ringed injectors which were body-clamped like the originals and then had a rail attached above that separately... It's been a while. If you have an EFI manifold and a caliper, I'd probably do as ovenfood suggests and step drill two holes about 1mm undersize, and then finish-ream them with a reamer of the proper diameter using dimensions taken from the stock manifold. Did you look on the Megasquirt Yahoo Forums, or their new forum? They had a lot of those kind of dimensions listed since a lot of guys had to drill bungs into existing carbie manifolds. I mean, they built a Turbo-Imp in 2002! There wasn't a manifold for THAT! Somewhere I have a drawing...you can see portions of the hand written dimensions in the back of this photo---the solenoid drawing was on top of a full-size drawing of injector mounting to adapt to an SU Manifold... where that drawing is now is somewhere...at the house...somewhere...moved by others from my drawing board...somewhere You can even see my engineer's scale in the right corner!

My thoughts on the Summary: - The path of coolant through the L engines results in the rear of the head receiving the hottest coolant having stagnated water flow, insufficient for the heat produced in the rear two cylinders and hence having the highest operating temps. - This can result in nucleate boiling at the rear of the head which can create a vapor barrier that slows the absorption of heat from the head to the coolant, making the #5 and 6 cylinders most likely to detonate. This modification allows flow in an area with insufficient flow to take the heat out of this area. There are several things that can be done to improve this: 1) Drill and tap above the #5 and 6 exhaust ports and route coolant to the thermostat housing generally below the thermostat to retain it's control on proper warmupto improve the flow of coolant at the rear of the head. Some have gone further and include #3 and 4, and some have even tapped all 6. 2) A higher pressure radiator cap can help reduce nucleate boiling. 3) The L28 diesel water pump can be made to fit and improves coolant flow. 4) Tapping and plugging the block to stop coolant flow from bypassing the thermostat (and hence radiator) helps devote more flow THRU THE ENGINE, but make sure that some path exists during warmup the #1 mod above is done to avoid water pump cavitation before the thermostat opens. 5) Non-aqueous coolant helps preventchanges when nucleate boiling occurs, and generally results in much higher operating temperatures across the board which may have other detrimental under-hood effects. 6) Water wetter seems to help in somemost cases,through decreasing surface tension of the coolant, very similar to a higher pressure radiator cap not so much in others.

What three plugs are fouled?

Resolution on the photo isn't sufficient to see where the casting marks go---that is why I wanted to see what it said on the top of #2. If it was, and they Homogolated to 35mm that would seem to work. It would be nice to see from the top, bottom, and inside! I have seen JDM Aftermarket Castings that have the bar on it, there was a manifold with a plenum sold in the 80's that had double injector bungs and if you didn't look closely you would think it was a normal L28E manifold...aside from the bungs halfway up the runners!

A seriously lightened original is 15#, plus 24# for the cover. That's (just call it) 40#. It's not SFI rated, and I wouldn't use it over the stock rpm range of the vehicle. For the cost of an 11# Tilton, the SFI rating, billet construction gives me peace of mind with little/no performance difference. If I was RACING on a road course, Tilton or any of the other aftermarket items. Generally the lighter the better. The 4.5Kg units are even lighter than the Tilton, but all still use the 24# stock clutch cover. so at BEST you are only going to get around 32-33# on a standard diameter conventional flywheel. That is 2X the weight of the 10,000 rpm unit out of Lancaster, the Tilton Triple-Plate, or any of the Quartermaster units. TWO TIMES THE WEIGHT---that is the kind of step you have... If it's a dual purpose car, you CAN get a low-inertia double or triple plate Quartermaster unit with an inertia ring...but you kind of defeat the purpose (especially if you have the torque that needs the double disc!) I have not had an issue driving my car with an HKS 9# flywheel, but I don't drag race it. It does take some getting used to, and it's not for everybody. But for a dual-purpose car I would say that would be the best you could do. The low inertia triple disc stuff is just too light for a smooth launch and you will burn it up in short order causing $300 rebuild to be due. The big difference people miss is that pressure plate. It's 24# no matter what, so they see flywheel weight and forget that they have to add 24# to it (basically doubling the weight of the early 240 flywheel!) The jump to dedicated modular units removes this weight, AND gives a significantly reduced moment of inertia making them unsuitable for the street. It's not the weight, as I said early on, it's where the weight is removed from! a 15# modular is a neck-snapper compared to the Centerforce 15# aluminum unit (which in reality is 39#!!!) Follow? Basically once you get to the CrMo 4.2Kg units, that's the lower limit. The next step is to go modular at half the weight. You can get that inertia ring on a modular unit, but do you really want a $1000 clutch to save 7# when you can get the CrMo for $240 and use STANDARD clutch components and basically replace them at standard intervals because they don't burn up every stop-n-go session?

How many have ended up in my back yard under similar logic??? I bought a 71 at police auction for $125 under the premise that I could experiment on a chop top... It had a five speed in it and I really wanted that tranny anyway. So while under it I realized "Holy Hell this thing has ABSOLUTELY no rust!" Then it was "I can't chop this one up, better find another, I'll use this for something else..." And so it began...

Oh no doubt it was a snickerfest! It is funny. It's a manifestation of a lifelong salesman getting asked an unscripted question and totally brain-farting but running the salesman's B.S. without skipping a beat! I have given him grief over it in person, and let him know "The Internet" is abuzz with talk when it first appeared. When I told him what "432" really meant he just looked at me and responded "Of course....(then with this panic look in his eyes said) what did I say on the interview????" When I told him he rolled up his eyes and just let out an "Oh gawd! Oh well, too late now that one's out of the gate!" I just didn't want to see it go too far, the guy is over 80, and the courses of therapy don't leave him in great shape so even I cut him some slack on this one and just rolled my eyes. Which is about what he did when I told him what he said! Didn't stop me from giving his crap over what he said (in person)... But right now he's not doing too well and I figured I should let everyone know before it got too overboard. He knows now what he said...the brain and the mouth just get a little disconnected when you get older I guess. No need for apologies. I once gave a sideways locked up double "You're number one" finger display to this Crown Vic that totally ruined a mountain run. Then when we got to the BBQ, I found out they were in our group! (D'OH!) We all spout off sometimes. I think some worse than others. It's not like you waved the double-bird in his face sideways out your window doing a smoking four-wheel drift at a 45 degree angle across the lane 60 feet in front of his car... "THAT would require a most humble apology..."

There is something cast into the top of the #2 intake runner---if we can see that it might help. The short ITB's look like they may be a Billett One-Off (there is a cut in logo between the barrels...) I don't know who casts it, but I would REALLY like to know where I can get one---that would make my staged injection a breeze! Do you actually have this manifold, or is this just a photo you are posting as a question? Some shots as requested above would definitely help I.D. the manufacturer. I would say it is NOT a cut-and-weld modification of the stock manifold. It looks like something out of Japan, they were the only ones I know of that used that OEM-Style captive injector mount on aftermarket parts.

Got a thread pitch gauge, it will tell you straightaway! THAT looks a lot better! Though I'm not enamored by that balancing mark...wow...

Around me $2K will get you a Chevy S10 of older vintage---either 4.3L V6 or 2.2L Four. if mileage is your thing, get the 2.2L 4 banger it gets incrementally better mileage. But that 4.3L V6 will still get around 24mpg, and have a HELL of a lot more power if you want to tow something or really load up and bring all the furniture to the dorm in one shot. Seriously, if you can find an extended cab it would be rewarding. Luxury wise I have seen some trucks into the early 2000's now near that price point, and if you get one all dented up and high mileage you can get one considerably newer! AC that is cold, decent mileage, and something not many people will look to steal. Perfect!

Ruf, "Mit radio!"

Oh yeah, the old Trans-Vair conversion! Yore Bus Sounds Funny, that a Porch Engyne? Any of the Corvair engines were a nice boost in power. The 140's were really nice and easily maintained. But if you could get a hybrid 150 turbine and 180 impeller, coupled with a Holley on that 180... 21 psi was a REAL kick in the pants (whether in a 2315# Early Bus, or a slightly heavier Corvair Corsa!!!) Girls dug the bus more anyway...

Might I posit that you guys delete all your off-topic posts and instead PM them to the moderators who can do what they will with the thread instead of tacking on yet ANOTHER page of unrelated banter to the already long post???

I used a stock modified Nissan Idle Air Bypass Valve adapted to fit 1/4" fuel line, and I can easily get 2200rpms around the 60mm throttle plate (which is fully closed and sealed) without much ado at all. I don't know what orifice it has, but opening that 1/4" fully line gives me 2200 rpms, so you should be good, if not right at an 1100 rpm maximum. That should be fine for most applications.

Sometimes you have no choice, the government mandates this crap, and you have to buy it whether you want it or not. I would be perfectly happy with a 2003 Air-Cooled Beetle, can't have one. But I can put the pan from one under a 1976 VW Beetle and drive it... Stoopid!

Do the bolt and washer upgrade, and use loctite on the cylindrical parts, as well as the threads...

We already converted to Superbolt for most of the Aermet studs, tooling fits in your pocket, and doesn't need anything special other than their JL-G Lubricant for proper friction on the threads of the Superbolt forcing screws and hardened washer. We replaced a hydraulic pretensioner with these as the makeup was actually more repeatable under field conditions. I used Hytorcs on Enterpirse IMO engines, as well as other oil refinery stuff. Hydraulic wrenches are nice on Turbine Work as well...

There is starting to be some misleading information. SNELL ratings change with the technology MUCH faster than most governmental requirements. If there is a considerable advance in helmet technology chances are it will be adopted by SNELL much faster than any governmental agency. It's a moving, continually stricter requirement... And I feel that is a good thing. But the specifics of the testing we should probably not comment upon---they are listed at the SNELL foundation site and the changes per standard are logged. "Multiple Impacts" is generally an "SA" requirement (for cars) whereas Motorcycles "M" are generally "Single Impact"---but SNELL is still the worldwide gold standard. As for SNELL not meeting AU standards because they are AU standards...it's not just helmets! Pressure Vessels and all sorts of other things can be constructed to VERY high standards exceeding Australian Specification, but because (as you stated) the way the Australian Trade-Union and OH&S Standards work, they must be individually accredited. This is similar to JIS "Type Certification" for automobiles. All the local guys do it, but importers have a hell of a time. We went through this with of all things OIL COOLERS (!!!) and ended up hiring a consultant firm to run our coolers through South Australia (since they have no industry and can push your inspection / engineering review through faster...) to get our certification numbers for our 'pressure vessels'. Long and short of it, even if the local standards are met---I would STILL buy one with SNELL / Local approval over one which has only had LOCAL approval. The SNELL is a moving target, and exceeds any local standards. You still have to have something legal for the road if you are on public roads...but there is a reason race sanctioning bodies usually require SNELL or FIA certification of Brain Buckets. Local governments aren't really up on technology, and NO government PROACTIVELY works for HIGHER standards. SNELL Foundation DOES. I second the thought on a 'used helmet'---for the cost of a helmet new...I put at least that much on my noggin's worth!

Mirroring the #4 hole over #3 would allow more flow from both... Though for relatively stock engines or under 300HP it's really overkill to go that far forward.

I have a nice 3/8" electric impact from I-R that works wonders for chassis stuff as well, but on the job it's only ever used for removal. And that's what I stress to the guys I'm supervising as well: "Impacts are only for removing, torque wrenches are for installation every time." With litigation invading more and more worksites after the fact, guys with good work habits find they don't sweat nearly as much when the investigators come around! Matter of fact this morning in my e-mail there was a note on something being investigated in Australia, due to oil leakage and a resultant small fire. Government investigators crawling around... Maybe I'll have to stand in dock in Australia... I don't want to, there the OH&S laws are very strict and if you weren't supervising closely YOU go to JAIL if there is a death or serious injury involved! Makes you think 2X! (Hell, they have investigators who look over cars after accidents---guess what, "personal use" on a public street? You're liable if they can trace it to your workmanship. Things open your eyes.... I digress!