Tony D

What did the Stahl Headers Cost that are no longer available? And the JDM stuff is expensive...what price is put on 'can't get it at any cost'?

Very nice look! Similar to what I had envisioned some time ago for my street car. 904-Porsche style double-stacked quad headlights under plexiglass covers! Keep the fingers crossed, and all wheels on the ground! Ever fire it up to take it out of the garage?

The 81 has ONE connector, earlier ZX's have the same 4+2 configuration. I chose an 81 resistor package to use with my Megasquirt because it was a single unit that had one connector. It's the only one like that. Everything before that point is identical. It's in the EFI section of the FSM...if you take a look online and download the free manuals, you will see they are identical (looking at the parts, they usually all have the same JECS number as well!)

Steve is correct, I didn't correct him---many people put the 2mm gasket on to 'drop compression' and they absolutely kill any quench. It really is a terrible idea. I have had this discussion with someone before. Really the last thing you want is a big thick head gasket. Ideally it would be bore-specific so you didn't have a compression loss in a 91mm bore gasket surrounding an 89, 88, or even 87mm bore! That ring around the top of a flat-top zero deck height piston is not a good thing, and really isn't in a pop-up either...but it's the compromise you must make. If you think the 3.1 is expensive...you should have seen the cost on the 3.5 kits back in the 80's...

Not to couch the obvious too much, but there are plenty of specialty shops in JAPAN that still produce headers for the L-Gata.

The addition of methanol makes for a cool burn with a LOT more ignition advance (on par with a N/A engine) so this raises peak cylinder pressure more in line with the original time/crankangle/pressure trace. It adds a huge margin of safety against detonation. And yes, they can be that crappy. If you have a US Specification L28 with a P90 or P79 head, they are emissions chambers designed for low NOx production, not really detonation resistant. They accomplished detonation reduction by very conservative timing, and lots of EGR to keep combustion temperatures down.

Yes, that is why the 2mm gasket came into being. It really helps keep quench proper when using a 2mm popup. Keeps the piston crowns thick to resist detonation, etc... My "?" was referring to the fact that 99.999% of the cars produced for everyday road driving come with cast pistons. Forged are the oddities, and are usually used for higher rpm usage as they are stronger in tension than cast pistons. When in turbo use, cast pistons are fine for a LOT of relatively higher horsepower applications long term as they are in compression from boost loadings, and since the RPM's don't rise above where normal street engines reside, the tensile loadings don't really increase that much. What you see on turbos is detonation collapse of pistons (cast or forged) you usually don't see wrist pins ripped out of the bottom of the thing like you do with cast pistons on an N/A that runs to 8K! "Boom!"

Is that THIS head (in the photos on this thread?) Egads, these people were... uh... "Misinformed"! Wow!

To answer your question: "Yes" I have the Nissan Comp Pan and an Accusump. A dry sump is a bit over the top unless you are in serious competition.

LOL....you know that rings familiar! I think that was my utility as well. Who knows where that floppy set went!

"i guess ill update this thread, seems the head needs work in the combustion chambers." Gross typo?

Challenge of everyday driving?

ARGH! I miss having "GHOST"...

Actually I have an external hard drive for photos mostly. Don't cache them on the machine drive any longer. Some documents as well. But really, that's no easier than simply hooking up the transfer cable and migrating with the MS files and folders wizard. Actually...it adds a step. Argh... But this thing about program file migration...I got to read on THAT when I get home tonight. THAT may be the magic bullet to save me from looking through piles of discs that have been ravaged by son and wife... At one time they are all in a nice, 24 CD Capacity wallet. Easy to get to, all in one place. That wallet appears to be no more, and this is not good!

Cygnus brings up a good point, buying a model discontinued or a couple of years old really won't be a 'sacrifice' in terms of functionality. Once you get to a certain level of mega pixel, you just start making big files if you don't crop or do a lot of poster work. I actually started buying my old original point-and-shoot off e-bay for $75 to use at jobsites and 'sacrificial cameras' when things are splashing or the camera is likely to get damaged. I have a full array of slipover lenses, and PLENTY of batteries and chargers now for a Nikon CoolPix 4300. Great little camera and more than enough for shop work at the house, to carry in the car for accident photos or the occasional 'cop abusing power' video...

If you don't (like John C mentions) put the engine on a dedicated engine dyno, you have no other choice but to datalog and tune based on what you see. I mean all that is nice to have on one page if they provide software to do it... If they don't and you're stuck with a CSV download to put into EXCEL to manipulate... Keep in mind Megasquirt has a datalogging software package. For the cost of an MS-1 box+ and LC1 you have Throttle Position, MAP, AF Ratio, RPM, Engine Coolant Temp, Inlet Air Temp... I mean there is 6 logged functions for under $600 using standard GM sensors (which the box will have you mount anyway)...I mean, just because you aren't firing the fuel injectors doesn't mean you can't use the MS as a standalone datalogger. A netbook with solid state hard drive gives a lot of storage space! And it's a given to me that I will have to use a laptop to download or record the datalogs at the track anyway so that cost is not included in either setup.

That was really helpful man. I'm sure you know all about it.

"If I had the budget and needed to go to a big bore then I would sleeve the whole damn thing given half the chance, and leave nothing to chance, nothing to stop you using some of the more exotic materials on the liners and rings then. " Now you're gettin' smaaaaata!

Yep... For antisurge control, taking DPT (Discharge Pressure directly off the final stage discharge scroll) is the preferred metholodgy, but for PRESSURE control in a process, taking SPT (System Pressure, from a point downstream of all pressure losses) is preferable. With a properly sized blowoff/unload control valve surge should not be an issue as long as you stay within reasonable limits of the compressors surge map. Where they reference is at compressor discharge...You will see some that have TWO sensing lines one at discharge and one at the torroidal portion of the turbine wheel diffuser section which will have even HIGHER pressure...the result is the wastegate opens even quicker. Now, on the bleeder styles, if it's a simple bleeder, you will still get the same mushy on-boost response as the wastegate actually starts opening around 4psi and it can open as low as 3psi. Using a poppet-bleeder will keep all pressure off the wastetgate until actual FULL pressure has been reached, THEN apply pressure to the wastegate diaphragm Your boost comes on much harder, and sooner with this setup. If you reference the manifold instead of the discharge, you will compensate for line loss. With a poppet-bleeder you will come on harder, earlier, and since you are in the manifold plenum when you Drop-Throttle you apply actual VACUUM to the actuating side of the wastegate SUCKING THE WASTEGATE DOOR CLOSED FASTER. This helps keep turbine speed up and helps with on-boost resumption. In reality the stock system is very low boost. 10 is a good number. I've run 10psi manifold referenced for quite some time on my red 260ZT. For a 'wife's car' that's O.K.

JeffP's Extreme280ZXT webpage on Anglefire, check the alternator page. Got one that will drive it all at IDLE, and properly regulate to the highest speeds. Amperage is a function of size---turns and diameter of the alternator, as well as Diode Capacity of the rectifier bridge used. You would think a ZX is a big upgrade, and it is, but not for audio systems with big transient loads. Get some big capacitors! And put your lights on a relay setup (they have a plug and play for 240's)---they will be a lot brighter going locally to a direct ground, instead of back through the steering column switch/master ground point! For your winkers, get a solid state flasher relay...they don't care about bulbs burnt out, using LED's, etc... Good Luck! Alternators aren't what they are cracked up to be!

I played Kodachrome in a loop for four hours the day they made the announcement... But I retain my 35mms...and The Boy even uses them! Though he is trending more towards the digital since we don't have a home darkroom any longer. My three lenses for the pentax cover 18-400, with the most used being the 45-150.

You mean 15's are being treated like 14's? I know people who will say with advances in tire technology the wider widths for the most part are no longer necessary.

Someone is misquoting me...and I think making comments which were not present in any former post... Somewhat distasteful and brings up the 'wtf' banner...

Handle Transferring Data Yourself....argh! Thats where I'm at, and our serial PC to PC cable is gone missing. And I got to dig up all my application install discs again to put all my 'non-company' company software on it (again!)

There was one knee and an elbow firmly on the wheel while my wife screamed and my kid encouraged me... Denada miamigo...