Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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It's not "Original" btw, it's either dealer, port, or aftermarket addition. If it was an OEM Nissan Offering, the holes for it would be standardized, and having had more than my share of Z's I can tell you that they are far from standardized. My All-Original 260Z has nice stainless steel trim screws holding mine on, whereas another 260Z 2+2 has the ubiquitous rivets. It depends on where it was installed what you have.
Obviously screws are easily removed, won't mess with that.
For the rivets, it becomes a matter of determining what diameter of rivet was used, and using a twist drill with a considerably bigger head than the hole diameter. This will allow you to use the rivet as your centering hole, and drill the head cleanly off the body of the rivet. This will allow you the luxury of not punching a hole any bigger in your body, not twisting the rivet in the body---the head comes off and you can pop the trim up. Push the body inside the panel and it will fall out on it's own down the backside of the panel.
For fill, there are several options. Of course similarly removed trim on VW Beetles have long either brazed over the holes or MIG'd them in, grind the highpoint down do a little feather fill and prime, sand and topcoat.
Then the bondo option, or FRP option also remains. This is an area that gets splashed with water from the backside, so if you do use bondo or fibreglas, make sure to do some barrier coating on the backside (of the fenders at least!) so water doesnt intrude from the backside. Nobody likes getting it from behind and being left wet...
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Actually, it was funny, up the street there was a doublewide mobile home renting for $1750 a month (2.5 acres land, plus numerous outbuildings---the place used to be called 'biotactics' and they raised mantises and other bugs to put in the fields to naturally kill off crop damaging pests)... but a full on house with a pool and 2 ccar garage on the same 2.5 acres with fencing and it's own well was up for foreclosure/mortgage sale at $128,000... Do the math on the payments for a 30 year fixed.
I'm paying like crazy on the place in Michigan to retire that one so I can get another place in Lotus Land so I can fulfill my dream of living in a Doublewide and being a Rental Property Owner collecting exorbitant rent on people living in my 'proper house'!
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I moved my trailer out of that damn repressive park. After the Park Manager Biker Dan got fired, it really went downhill with the rules.
Luckily the axles were still under there, and I up and moved to the county area.
Now, I got CONEX containers in my backyard, and my neighbor thanks me for putting stuff in them, instead of letting it lay about the yard...
Some here will think I'm joking or making light of the HOA situation.
Others, well they've Google Earthed my address and know the story all too well!
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How did you get a 0.4 ohms reading on an RX1 scale? Is the meter properly zeroed?
I am pointing to the TPS for your idle problem. The 3500 reference is due to the fact that by 3K-3500 rpms the AFM is all the way open and the ECU is running on a "WOT" map that is based on rpms and fixed program.
For the record the WOT switch closes closer to 30% throttle than 75% as well. NewZed kinda nailed it: if it doesn't run with it disconnected, then likely that's not the issue. Try the same with the TPS, it's very common they get misadjusted, drift, or crud up and don't work properly.
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I like the notation in the title or subject line "photos: 56K forget it"
Then you know not to open it. Simple, and people can put highres photos for people who click and want a fullsize detailed image.
Just because it looks interesting doesn't mean you have to view it....
Forewarned is forearmed...
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Realistically, the SU's on the car will support an N/A build to close to 200HP which is a very potent street Z.
Scott B. ran the dyno to 192 at the MSA event last April on an overbored L28, with headwork from Slover's in L.A. and a cam from Ron at Isky in Gardena. The SU's will support that kind of power without much effort, Scotts were not opened up, did not have a polished bridge, cut suction piston, or being bored out to 50mm or whatever. A good remanufactured carb with the proper Needle and Jet pair will do the job just fine, with good vacuum and drivability.
That is what you get with the SU's: very good street manners, and very little sacrifice in overall performance. Lots of midrange torque.
Thing is, a set of ZT Carbs if you keep them clean and maintained will command a far higher price than any of the 'core carbs' you see on e-bay! And they go from anywhere from 150-400$! ROI should be pretty good if you choose to go a different route. They are 'desirable parts' to sell off in the future. Keep your invoices and receipts for proof of provenance.
A good set of carbs and ignition system, will give you a nice performing car. They're a hoot to drive even bone stock. They are a very well balanced car.
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REalisticallly any AFM can be used in any AFC Controlled car if you alternate the pins to match the inputs reequired by the ECU.
Idle enrichment is done through the TPS, not the AFM. If the contacts on the TPS don't close, you run lean at idle. If someone dorked with the AFM to richen it up at idle (since it should be near or completely closed and only running air through the bypass) then you would run lean at idle, and rich most everyplace else.
What does it do over 3500RPM.
The biggest problem I see with people doing ohm checks is they use a digital ohm meter, and disregard the settings in the FSM. If it says "RX1000" then that should be manually selected. This will give you no 'right of decimal' numbers in your readout, and your 0.4 now becomes '0'... and the FSM usually says 'any reading but infinity or 0' meaning you have intermittent shorts in the resistive trace. This may or may not cause a problem, but if the wiper lands on one of those spots it definately will screw up your ECU outputs.
I manually select (usually) Rx1 or Rx1000 when doing tests with my Fluke. I was once held up 8 hours on a job because an electrical engineer had us searching for a phantom supply voltage to a mercoid switch: "Nope, there's still voltage there!"
Finally after 8 hours I looked at what this degreed engineer was doing, and it was connecting his Fluke to the connections and was getting '127' just like our supply voltage to the switch. Problem was it was an AUTORANGED 127mV, instead of a 127VAC! Sure, from an 'electrical engineering standpoint' there was 'voltage present' --- from a practical OSHA Lockout Tagout Perspective, that was dead as a chicken in a pot... Just because you get a reading doesn't mean it's good or bad, you have to use the correct scale. "Autorange" was an invention so people using the equipment needed less training. Not necessarily a good thing IMO. I'm old school Simpson A/N PSM-37 Meter Trained: Select the appropriate range for the circuit you're testing, and that gives you reliable results. That means, of course, you need to know the circuit you're testing and what you should get....but it's a small price to pay to 'troubleshoot through system knowledge'!
Good Luck!
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An OBD1 GM 2.8L V6 TBI system works flawlessly on an L28 as well, its a 'figure a way to bolt it up and mount the sensors' and you're on your way. Works great.
But also an illegal modification.
That is why the emphasis on TAILPIPE ONLY testing was important. There is no visual fail criteria if you have the proper year vehicle, and proper insurance. It makes the law common sense. You technically should be able to have anything you want on the engine as long as it passes out the tailpipe. Maybe RAYAAP can comment further on the specific smog check functional tests and if all Original Components must F/C correctly as well...
But for something runnning in CA, I know for a fact the MS1 has endured multiple 'stealth' installation in Bosch AFC systems (identical to our JECS System) on VW busses over the past 10 years. You can integrate the MS into the stock harness without much trouble, and they are now making PNP (plug n play) kits to be able to house it in the stock JECS box. This is the best alternative IMO as it doesn't draw any attention to any modification.
Just my opinion after dealing with CA Smog for some time (around 20 years now).
It's not hard to pass, you just can't be too stupid when you go in for your tests. Some people are amazed by what I get past. But if the cuffs and collars match, and everything looks like it's functional, and it runs clean out the pipe...it passes. Discretion is the better part of valor in this instance.
Go in with a lot of new wires, different looking components, and something looking modified....you're crucified by a gunshy technician who wants to keep his job and not get a $10K fine. Show that you know something about testing, emissions, or engine function? RED FLAG! Chances are you will get booted to a referee station on a fail rather than anybody risking passing you and finding out you're a BAR inspector.
All those guys who clean-piped their cars all these years: Thanks for the narrowed standards for 75-79 year vehicles. If you failed legit tests, we would likely have a vehicle exemption now, or at least still be held to the original test standards!
But I digress...
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Reading the CARB sticker cert they cite on the Hesco.us site also says it's specifically for retrofit of Jeeps to the 91-94 EFI standard, completely removing the stock Carburated system. I'm not sure the sticker would work on a Z.
No, it won't, and since it's not on the engine designed for the conversion it's an illegal swap in CA. It is not a CARB compliant swap. Now if they redo their test on a 78Z then they could probably get a second CARB sticker for that application as well. But will they do it? I bet not.
That is kinda why I cautioned about posting, it's totally inapplicable. Other states, maybe, but not in CA (and that was stated in the OP)
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"He informed me he never finished college but got his job through a coop and with that experience he was able to form a resume."
As someone who has interviewed people and watched them placed and work out (or not) I would 9X out of 10 pick someone with SOME education and 5 years hands-on performance in the field before ANY pure degreed individual with little experience or unrelated internships.
I have talked with several other business owners who have come to the same conclusion. Those first few years out of school are volatile for an employer, and many times 'good prospects' just don't pan out. On the other hand, a guy with a proven track record and some academic background likely is going to work out, AND be able to be trained to do other things.
(The favorite phrase from one of our directors: "You went to college, figure it out!" Straight out of a 60's time capsule!!!
)On top of that, I would say I'd hire someone out of one of the country's apprenticeship programs mentioned earlier with 'preference' knowing how the programs work. There is a very BIG difference between what a College or University Degree 'qualifies' you for outside the USA. It's like a High School Diploma used to be in the USA in many cases: basic entry level to a career. It means you have a base, nothing more, and that you now pick up directly related job skills.
I'm sure there are plenty of other guys on this board who will say 'my major has nothing to do with what job I ended up having'---to be sure this is less likely in Engineering, but you go off into different disciplines because that is the nature of jobs today. When I was interviewed, having 20 years in the field and obviously working at the highest levels the Engineering Technical Services Manager interviewing me took a look at my C.V. and simply raised an eyebrow and questiongly stated "Asian Studies?".....
I could tell you all sorts of 'useless information' about myths and legends of the Ryukyu Islands, or anamistic traditions of Meo Tribesmen in Laos... Totally useless in a technical field. But I do work Asia Pacific, and while technical prowess is necessary to do my job increasingly I'm finding that my 'unrelated' studies in cultural aspects of Asia make me far more effective in my job. It confounds other engineers which relate 'problem jobs' which come back with glowing praise of the big fat american that just left. "How dat happen? They hate everybody!"
I'd highly recommend trying to get into an apprenticeship. I took the test with NSW last time I was in Oz for my Diesel Fitter's Ticket. Why? Because I could. But also because someone was offering a work visa for technical work... Hell, I might emigrate if the conditions dictate. Having a ticket in another country makes going where the jobs are much easier!
I did a Job in Sask. Canada where they wanted all these qualifications in safety training, I plopped down my NSW Australia OS&H Construction Qualification and all discussion stopped... "Wow, yeah, thats acceptable....uh....how did you get that?!?!?!"
My thoughts are technical jobs will be mobile. From what I see, there are plenty of manufacturing facilities which simply can't get the job done with local talent. They need people who can both think AND get hands-on with the equipment to solve problems. They will pay well. A guy who is academically good might get in on front end design, or R&D, but those positions will be limited. The guy who can work in the field. From the day that first equipment starts, they will need him for something or other for the next 20 years! If working purely academically drives you somewhat nuts, consider apprenticeship/coop work to progress both your academic and hands on qualifications. As an employer, you would come higher on my 'hire' list than a more 'distinguished' purely academic canidate (for field work that is!)
Work Abroad? Absolutely.
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If I had a test subject to do cat tests on I would. I have the stock exhaust piping and an array of known good cats to test with. Just no car.
When I come for the 10mm socket and ratchet, I'll bring the blue turd, stockest of stock and with NOS SU's and only around 40K miles on them, no leaking shafts! Maybe I can get my kid to follow me in the non-catalyst 76 as well... we can spend a week testing and then hoarde the information smugly...
Maybe we could trickle it out 'elsewhere' and be Riders of the Hi-Horse.
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Alt Z is in Huntington Beach near Warner and Gothard.
I didn't mention a direct response to your question #2---an 'overhaul' on these carbs are generally soft parts, gaskets, etc.
They don't address the throttle shaft leaks, so generally if there is high mileage, the throttle shaft leaks. An 'overhaul kit' likely won't do anything for you. Likely (I would hope to gawd) the LA Carb "Overhaul" for that price would be the Z Therapy Carb set, and labor to install/tune them! If it was a soft parts kit (about $40) and then tweaking to make it run smoother (my biggest fear for a new guy going to a shop not knowing) then in response directly to #1 "Yeah it's highway robbery." Depends on what exactly you are getting!
IMO for all intents and purposes, the Z Therapy carbs ARE 'the originals'... The improvements they do are something you should do while undergoing such a significant major work on the carbs. There are plenty of places as I said that do straight 'bushing replacements'---they center the shafts and put oilite bronze bshings back in there giving you exactly (for all intents and purposes) the same design. This is poor eeconomy (they rebush for maybe $175 a pair...if you're good with a drill press or Bridgeport, you can do this yourself...) as bushings tend to wear, and eventually you will need to replace them as well. A removable ball bearing is like a weber carb, a design improvement. For their increased costs you also get a cleaned carb body and proper finish, etc... I mean, you already know I guess. If you are cleaning everything up in the engine bay, then that cleaning works well.
Just so you know, there isn't any identifying carb stamps on these things, there are no 'matching numbers' carb sets like Rochesters with their little aluminum tags. A three screw in general is a three screw. Any carb is as good as another coming back. That is the key difference between 'overhaul' and 'remanufacturing'---recall above that the original remedy for this situation was to replace the carburettors with new Nissan/Datsun Hitachi units. This is, in effect what ZT is doing, more than a mere 'overhaul' they are dimensionally checking and 'remanufacturing the carbs to act as new---just like what you would do with the cars back in the 80's and early 90's when these carbs were still available new from Nissan Dealers. My NEW set was $1200 in 1991, they have 6 months of driving on them and 4 Smog Checks...I might entertain selling them for $2000...
I got plenty of cores to send to ZT for that price! DO this: take a small spray bottle of water and while the car is warm and at idle, spray a stream of water at the throttle shafts. If the car stumbles, you're leaking at the shafts and you are looking for either a new body, rebushed body, or ZT Remanufacturing.
This is the same process we went through on Corvairs years ago. I rebushed my own carbs, and installed seals that were an aftermarket improvement. Then I found some NOS carbs...for more than I had paid, so I snagged them and put them on the shelf. They're still there with the right tags and all for my car to be 'correct'...
But Hitachi SU's? No worries, as long as you have the right screw configuration you're set. Nobody will be able to tell they weren't the originals.
Cheers.
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not in oxnard!
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"Great discussion - simple questions often don't have simple answers."
THANK YOU!
As to Nigel's experience, consider that OEM's run their engines at Peak Torque for 200 hours on an engine dyno. The catalyst needs to be able to handle that. Your test is but a 'fart in the wind' compared to that kind of testing. You likely will go hundreds of thousands of miles if your mixture control remains proper. I believe that was the key to what people were saying: "don't just slap it on, make sure your MIXTURE CONTROL IS ACCURATE" If you have it, it will most likely work, or be passable. I'd like to see some actual dyno emissions test quantifications for all the people that have put them on. For all the 'theoretical' discussions on the 'be careful side' there is absolutely nothing but empirical about the 'I did it' crowd---not a single before and after tailpipe quantification of the 'improvement' of the 'fume reduction'... I have had people swear a car runs stronger and faster when I put a CAI on it too. Even though real results say 'nothing improved'... Psychology plays a big part in this kind of stuff. It helps if you provide actual impartial testing results.
It's not 12:1 that will cause an issue go back and look what you will have to 'scrub' during these excursions at that AFR (re: rays previously posted chart). Most STOCK OEM systems will do 12:1 during WOT--this is not a radical number. Many of the early cars with 'burn down problems' were DOMESTIC and had CARBURETTORS. And in those cases, 'mixture control' could vary quite a bit. They also had first generation catalysts.
I guarantee you put a catalyst on a car with 10:1 AFR under WOT conditions for 200 hours, and it will die. 12:1 it will likely live. That's what it's supposed to do.
You just don't slap a cat on something thinking that is all there is to it. If you have poor mixture control there will be issues. The OEM test is designed to simulate 100K miles of road driving (in the early days the cats only had to last 50K miles, now it's 100K---they're built better now than before!) Sure you can ride around a considerable distance in 7 years of driving, but you're not at 200K miles (where generally an OEM catalyst is still functioning just fine.)
For the talk of 'never having a heat problem' how many times have any of you had the "FLOOR TEMPERATURE SWITCH" activate? I had it happen during a sustained interstate drive---the tools in my kit over the muffler literally melted into the tar on the back of the parcel area. The tar strip was like hot butter and giving off fumes from the heat coming off the damn thing! 80MPH for tankful after tankfull towing a small trailer, I believe I was on my third tank of the day so that was after 6 + hours of driving at 3200rpms with a (what, 50HP?) load on it. I have had the floor in my GM Dually get hot enough to have the kid sitting in the back seat say "Hey dude, your floor is smoking!" and when he lifted the floor mat, found the carpet black, melted, and on the verge of igniting!
It's not when the car is PROPERLY RUNNING that the catalyst will get hot. In the case of the dually the 7 pin HEI was on the verge of failing and went full retard (best I can guess) and dumped a lot of fuel into the exhaust. THIS is what OEM's have to design around: severe failure mode. They size their catalysts to survive this kind of abuse, so you can do all sorts of general driving and NEVER get near the taxing point of the catalyst. But that doesnt make a catalyst a slap it on and drive merrily away kind of modification. It takes some forethought, and it takes some effort at proper mixture control.
Skip those two things, and you're screwed. Or on the way to being screwed. So you're running one. Cool.
Post some before / after emissions certificates and quantify the changes. Do some posts with and without the cat. In SoCal this kind of testing would cost me maybe $120 for a very accurate five gas analysis (if I could get a Smog Guy to do it...RAY) After spending well over $2000 on dyno testing to quantify cooling systems modifications, going to slap a cat on my 260Z just to quantify the emissions reduction is probably not in the cards. Hell I got guys questioning the results of the cooling system testing, I'd surely get 'i'm stacking the deck' responses if I tested a slapdash cat installation and came out with less than phenomenal cleanup results.
So I leave that ball in you 'I put a cat on and it runs clean as a baby fart' group to quantify the improvement and post it here, instead of subjective 'ooga-booga' testimonial. As easily as an argument against a 'theoretical' reason for not installing one (which I don't think is what anybody said---they just said MAKE SURE YOUR MIXTURE IS PROPERLY CONTROLLED), subjective 'less fumes' testimonials can be dismissed.
The FIVE GAS ANALYSIS DOES NOT LIE.
You guys put them on, go get it sniffed and tell us what the before and after numbers are, and what they are after 7 years.
You may even be surprised when you do a cat on / cat off test at the 7 year point. With all the dyno time a track car has I would think you already have pre-cat five gas analysis results extant, you just need to make a run and stuff the sensor in the actual tailpipe.
That would pretty much quantify it in a way that would satisfy me, for sure. I like numbers. I don't like anecdotes.
Everybody wins when the numbers go up!
<EDIT> The alternative is I have a BAR90 compliant Allen Emissions Testing Machine that I could do idle and 2500 testing. Problem is, it's in Dover DE and I need to get it to my house in SoCal. I could do it, but I owe the guy his car, and he owes me the Smog Machine for my home shop... Then all I need is a dyno and I'm on my own island!
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Had a very long response, keyboard dumped it, I'm not doing it again.
The modifications work and are documented on a Superflow 901 Dyno. The engine runs a 450HP actual load at 5500+ rpms for 5 minutes straight with stable oil and water temperatures. No difference between the front and back of the engine at coolant temp of 170F...
Try that with a stock engine, and then dispute there is any lack of benefit. I PURPOSELY did not give readings along the way and instead concentrated on beginning and ending results. Read my last posts again to read the difference between a stock engine with a paltry 25hp load on it and the temperature disparity with just that load on it. Then realize we had 18 TIMES that load on it and maintained 170F at the CHT and Thermostat with absolutely NO disparity in temperatures. If this is not effective, what is?
Like I said, I had a very detailed response and I'm pretty P.O. right now that it was dumped. I'm not going into it further, and I'm not writing a white paper on it.
Long and short of it, VW and Corvair heads will melt near 600F CHT and they won't drop their seats, if you are dropping yours, discuss the proper assembly techniques with your head builder, they don't have enough interference! It's an assembly issue more than a head heat issue. This modification if meant to keep heat moving out of the engine to prevent runaway temperatures and a detonation or thermal lock of the engine. Your valve seat issue is with your assembler and technique, likely it will still happen with this modification, but take longer as it's running cooler back there...
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Crosswalks in Singapore have big letters at the curb: "LOOK RIGHT"
You would be amazed how many idiots still walk out in front of traffic.
Darwinisim is alive and well with pedestrians as well as drivers, let's not make it TOO comfortable for them!
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As a native Michigander, I might take issue that you 'get smarter' after spending 5 years in Detroit.
Then again, as a native Michigander, I can also say that 'since you were from France' that might possible!
The Pope comes to the U.P. and sees this guy with a Detroit Lions Sweater on being savaged by a black bear by the roadside.
Two burly Yoopers jump out from nowhere wearing Packers sweaters and shoot the bear, and work feverishly to revive the savaged man, but alas it is too late and he succumbs right there at the roadside.
The Pope gives the dead man his absolution, and then thanks and praises the two Yoopers for their heroic efforts at trying to save the man especially since he knows Lions and Packers fans have a natural animosity towards one another. This truly showed their 'brotherhood of man' spirit.
The Pope leaves in his popemobile, and one Yooper looks to the other and says "What was all dat about 'brothehood of man' suff, eh?"
The other said "Don't know, but it looks like we gotta drive back down below and capture us some more Bear Bait!"
"Off Topic To Be Sure!"
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Roger, Roger!
There are plenty of OEM oil coolers out there that are very durable and in some cases have a proper thermostatic valve incorporated into them so overcooling of the oil is not an issue.
I personally liked the 1st Gen RX7 coolers. Very JDM look to them...
Is your oil overheating? What is your sump temperature? What is the duration of your longest full rpm full load pull?
If you're not overheating now, overcool oil IS DETRIMENTAL to your engine. It's viscosity is not right, costing you horsepower, it is not hot enough to burn off contaminants so they dilute the oil, etc. If you have a cooler, you can always cover it with cardboard. And inelegant solution, for sure, but it works!
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P.S.
I never fired at anybody abroad when in the military.
On the other hand, as a civilian contractor after my discharge...yeah.
I know people who went through their trades apprenticeship abroad. For an engineering occupation I would highly recommend any former British Commonwealth country, i.e. NZ, OZ, UK. The apprenticeship program is very well developed. I know people working for compressor companies in Canada (Scottish emigrants) who apprenticed their engineering technical in the same factory where James Watt built the first steam engine. When you have 400 years of tradition working with you as you learn, it instills a special kind of pride.
Do it sooner rather than later, as in many of the countries they are rapidly substituting a relatively quick University Education Requirement in place of the traditional hands-on experience and work requirement. The lie that education is a substitute for experience when you are starting out is being sorely revealed because of this. Find a traditional 5 year apprenticeship program and beat your head into that for a while. At least you're getting paid something while you're there!
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My point was you made a comment, obviously without investigating what he suggested. (This is where I was going with the "dismissive.")
Had you gone to the site he gave you, my post would not have been necessary (they go over what goes wrong, and how they address the failures so it doesn't happen again.)
These are an OEM carb, and they were originally designed to be throwaway when necessary. When the bodies wore, you replaced the unit.
The only viable alternative now is rebushing them (there are places back east who do Triumph and other English carbs, this repair/restoration is not new) Z-Therapy is the #1 Z-Car Carb source. Their prices are much more inline with 'our' marketplace than the markeplace you got the recommendation from... which was why I mentioned 'giving you a line'---he quoted based on what you would 'expect' from that shop. Personally I think it's far higher than required when Z Therapy will do a premier job (on your carbs, if you wish) and leave you plenty of $$$ for a specialist like Tony at AltZ, any of the Guys at Vincent Foreign, or Sunrize Z to dial them in like new. But as mentioned, Z Therapy gives you a nice video to show you how to do it yourself. It goes along the lines of 'teach a man to fish...' the more you know about it, the less chance you will be taken for a ride.
Many times I've seen 'carb specialists' not get our Z stuff right. There are things (covered in the video) that point it out. When YOU know how to do it, even if you never do it yourself, you will KNOW if your stuff was done right.
And finally, by 'aruging the finer points' it was relating back to voicing a desire to 'keep what you have'--had the site been read, you would know YOUR carbs can be sent in and returned to you...keeping them as you desired. That does seem to be a fine point to argue over---'wanting mine back'---when precisely that service was offered! That's where I was coming from. That you voice interest in the MCHH gives mixed signals, do you want the stock ones there, or not?
I have seen regional/marque disparity in pricing before. I was made acutely aware when I started out and was privy to internal part coding at GM dealerships. It was there I found a $39 alternator for a Nova was the same one as one for a Caddy that was $249. Just a different box. The pricing you got IMO was 'for the box' and I think you came to the right place to ask if it was appropriate. I think you can see the consensus is, compared to what you will get from ZT, it's probably out of line for the market. Especially the L.A. market.
If you were in the local Z Club they might be able to steer you to more local sources. "Los Angeles" in your location is a big area, so not knowing what precisely is your location it's difficult to give any more specific or closer 'installation specialists'...
Good Luck.
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"On all S30's they do a tailpipe test anyway, because the S30's never had a OBD1 or II port and certainly don't have the 03+ CAM port."
"Oh and Classic Car insurance likely you'll prefer Modified car insurance. Basically the car gets much better insurance rates because you have to have the car be 18+ years old, and get an appraisal, and often must be garaged w/ a mileage limit."
I would caution people outside California commenting like this. This is not applicable to California, and this is not correct information.
CalSmog consists of a tailpipe and visual test. Having 'modified car insurance' from Haggerty gest you NOTHING according to the law Stravi mentioned. It has to be collector car insurance... Haggerty does not have mileage restrictions on some of their policies, they just stipulate 'pleasure use only' meaning they don't want you driving 12K miles a year in rush hour traffic to and from work daily. CARB expected most companies would put strict mileage limits on the vehicles to limit their pollution potential...D'OH! Haggerty screwed them on that, and it's good for us!
If you want to go through ONLY the tailpipe test on the car, it has to be 35 model years old or older, and have collector car insurance on it. In some of the discussions/debate/floor discussion there was discussion that an additional requirement would be that the vehicles were registered with a Marque Club, or car club of some sort.
Now think about this people: We have had catalysts on vehicles now for OVER 35 years. You would think in almost 40 years people would educate themselves on emissions, or upkeep of these devices. These systems are generally troublefree and maintenance is not that difficult. There really isn't a reason not to have the car pass. And with a reasonable tailpipe only test, this should be a breeze. There is no more of this 'oh you don't have XYZ under the hood, you FAIL!' (even though out the pipe in the back you are compliant. Living in CA the results of pollution controls has meant a far better quality of life than before their implementation. They have not been the downfall of performance automobiles, or the aftermarket that exists for performance modifications. The there is no reason on the face of the earth that a properly adjusted performance Z-Car shouldn't pass a tailpipe-only test (especially if it's tested to the original requirements for year of manufacture.)
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The painter accepted the job, he was liable for custodial care of the vehicle.
I would not let him off for the damages done to the vehicle, or at least the costs of repairs to the damages to restore it to what it was before you gave it to be painted.
Most of the rust you see is chemically cleanable.
You are correct on the rust in the window area. Pull the windshield and repair it, it does NOT mean you cut off a roof and replace the roof. That area is commonly corroded due to the drainage issues inherent in the windshield sealing design. You will either have to fab new pieces, weld in new sections from a donor, or if the corrosion is not all the way though remove all rust with blasting/chemical cleaning and put body solder over the rough sections. This is one of the rare portions on the car where body solder can be used, everywhere else is too thin!
For celphone photos, those are damn nice!
Chemical cleaning is your friend. Sanding ain't that great, it leaves oxidation behind.
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" I would of never guessed that people trying to make a yellow would be causing a large risk."
They aren't. Most of the red-light intersections have found this to be true. There is also an incidence of increased accidents at red light intersections...but due to the statistical questions asked, they don't get 'officially' related. The 'intersection' accidents stay the same, they may go down, but 'the road' shows an increase---they found people stopping short caused accidents, and since they are not in the intersection proper, they weren't counted or correlated to the redlight cam being installed.
I think both ped Xwalks, and the lights should have countdown timers. I spend a lot of time outside the USA now, and wherever I see those lights they just make so much more sense. There is no mistaking "10", but looking up and seeing a green light and then seeing it turn yellow (some countries flash the light 5 seconds before the light changes...great if you look long enough to register a flashing light...) you never know exactly.
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"No one is forcing you to share what you know, you are choosing to volunteer your time and share what you know to those who don't know. Please remember that."
Indeed, please DO remember that. For more extensive research on the subject of those with knowledge taking their ball and going home, I'd suggest reading "Atlas Shrugged" by Ayn Rand.
People will always have questions, to complain about the method in which someone taking the time to answer it (especially putting inference like 'high horsedeness' or malicious intent is the action of someone reading it. How such commentary relates to the thread in any constructive way is beyond my comprehension so maybe you can PM me for assistance with that, because such commentary doesn't belong in a thread where people are answering issues directly related to the question at hand.
And you're absolutely right, nobody forces me to give away free knowledge. Apparently they DO suggest that I give it to them in some format they demand as being inoffensive, on a given RGL, or complying with many other conditions.
Sorry, but to me, that smacks of terrible poor form. Either you are grateful for information provided, or you are not.
These types of posts are, IMO, in the 'are not' column. You have the same choice not to read them, or comment on them, or not participate at all.
When those without knowledge participate on a grand scale, without people with knowledge similarly participating, you have a situation like ZC.C. IF that is your intention...be careful what you wish for. At most, the people with knowledge will simply not respond. Then where is the O.P.? Or anybody else reading this thread?
SE\eriously, think about what you are saying in this regard. Take it to a logical conclusion. Where is (as asked before) any terrible transgression? Or is this just an example of someone complaining for some P.C. ideal because they don't want their feathers ruffled by discussion on a topic that may contradict what their original thoughts were.
The last several posts in this thread are totally useless, talking about people's sensitive feelings being hurt as opposed to the techincal discussion happening previously. That's how it started at ZC.C as well. You see how the moderation there turned out.
Nothing technical has been discussed here, as such this thread is ended IMO. It's now being dragged in to the mud with emotional baggage of posters with an agenda I can't understand. I've poorly done my part in proffering a response I should not have done...but like suggested "nobody is forcing me." I can survive without responding just fine.
g-nose
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted · Edited by Tony D
full set of G Nose and IMSA flares up for sale in Perris...owner lives in Corona...
<EDIT> MOLDS, G Nose and IMSA Flare MOLDS <EDIT>